scott87star Posted October 22, 2014 Report Share Posted October 22, 2014 Crank trigger is the best, most accurate way to go. If you send me your parts I can assemble it as you want. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaliConquestAlex Posted October 24, 2014 Report Share Posted October 24, 2014 Here's a snapshot of a datalog from a run around the block tonight. Any comments or feedback? http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s415/apordes/Datalog_zps1a8e59a0.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Funky Phil Posted October 26, 2014 Report Share Posted October 26, 2014 needs more rpm 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wrngwae Posted October 27, 2014 Report Share Posted October 27, 2014 (edited) This is mine. im going to start learning what means what.lolhttp://i1170.photobucket.com/albums/r521/wrngwae/Untitled.jpg Edited October 27, 2014 by wrngwae Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaliConquestAlex Posted October 28, 2014 Report Share Posted October 28, 2014 This is mine. im going to start learning what means what.lolhttp://i1170.photobucket.com/albums/r521/wrngwae/Untitled.jpg Why do you have multiple different fuel and spark tables? Are you running meth injection or something that would require table switching? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scott87star Posted October 28, 2014 Report Share Posted October 28, 2014 I hooked him up with table switching, we were just making sure Tye had more than Phil. Got to like 288 tune points for fuel and spark! Notice the upper tables rpm bins start at 2000 and the lower table rpm bins stop at 4500. You get more useable tuning room skewing them on a table switch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaliConquestAlex Posted October 28, 2014 Report Share Posted October 28, 2014 (edited) I hooked him up with table switching, we were just making sure Tye had more than Phil. Got to like 288 tune points for fuel and spark! Notice the upper tables rpm bins start at 2000 and the lower table rpm bins stop at 4500. You get more useable tuning room skewing them on a table switch. Wow, I never thought to use multiple tables to get more data points. That's a great idea. Do you know if the autotune function works properly with multiple tables? Is it as simple as just enabling table switching and setting the KPA and RPM bins? Also, how does this impact datalogging and analysis using the megalogviewer? So basically you have a table for no boost, <100 KPA, and a table for boost, >100KPA? Edited October 28, 2014 by CaliConquestAlex Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scott87star Posted October 28, 2014 Report Share Posted October 28, 2014 Yes, it's that easy, yes I used a 100 KPa switch point for Tye but if you're running big boost you can move it anywhere that gives you the resolution you want. MS2 and 3 allow software configured switch points, MS1 requires the use of an output and then a hard wired input to trigger the switch point. Autotune uses whatever table you have "up" at the time, just choose whatever table you want to work on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaliConquestAlex Posted October 28, 2014 Report Share Posted October 28, 2014 This is very interesting. I'm going to spend some time over the next few days re-configuring my tables to use dual tables for both fuel and spark and I'll report back with results. This will hopefully help to really clean up off boost performance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaliConquestAlex Posted October 28, 2014 Report Share Posted October 28, 2014 I wish some of the current high horsepower guys would post their ignition maps... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psu_Crash Posted October 29, 2014 Report Share Posted October 29, 2014 I wish some of the current high horsepower guys would post their ignition maps... And then get blamed for a melt-down? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaliConquestAlex Posted October 29, 2014 Report Share Posted October 29, 2014 And then get blamed for a melt-down? Obviously users should be cautious and not just expect to use someone else's table and go WOT testing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Funky Phil Posted October 29, 2014 Report Share Posted October 29, 2014 I hooked him up with table switching, we were just making sure Tye had more than Phil. hahaha! Hows that workin out? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Funky Phil Posted October 29, 2014 Report Share Posted October 29, 2014 (edited) I wish some of the current high horsepower guys would post their ignition maps... for what fuel, piston, plug, headwork, exhaust? The crappier the engine flows, the more help (advance) it will need. You want to have most of your adv pulled before you hit peak tq (peak cyl pressure) thats where it will be prone to detonate. Then bring it back in over time (rpm) to keep it going. Climb on a dyno and add/remove 2 deg from the top end and see how the engine responds. If you add 2 and it losses or doesnt gain, remove 3. If you pull 2 and it gains, remove more and see what it does. Turn off your corrections off, do some 3rd gear datalogs and see how the afr's respond. I like long uphill roads. Edited October 29, 2014 by Funky Phil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scott87star Posted October 29, 2014 Report Share Posted October 29, 2014 hahaha! Hows that workin out? Great, Tye is happy. Slow but happy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wrngwae Posted October 30, 2014 Report Share Posted October 30, 2014 (edited) Hey now. Lol Edited October 30, 2014 by wrngwae Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NotStock88 Posted November 1, 2014 Report Share Posted November 1, 2014 Tye did you get your boost stall figured out? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duckheads Posted November 1, 2014 Report Share Posted November 1, 2014 Tye did you get your boost stall figured out? No! He isn't happy happy happy bout that! Lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wrngwae Posted March 31, 2015 Report Share Posted March 31, 2015 All better now no more stall. Gets get this party started now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slowquest Posted March 31, 2015 Report Share Posted March 31, 2015 Got your latest .msq? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wrngwae Posted March 31, 2015 Report Share Posted March 31, 2015 Still final tuning then I will throw it up Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
polarisman14 Posted September 15, 2015 Report Share Posted September 15, 2015 (edited) Looking for some advice here. This is a tune I had before when I was running stock compression: http://i512.photobucket.com/albums/t324/polarisman14/StarQuest/tune_print_screen_9_14_15.jpg I am now running 8:1 Wiseco's and a 195 degree thermostat (versus the 180 degree that was in there beforehand). Those are the only changes from then to now but I know the CR is a pretty significant one so I'm asking what, if anything, you think I should do to these tables. I had to bump my required fuel up a point to make it idle smoothly in the 13:1 AFR range. Mods are as follows: Wiseco 8:1 PistonsTEP Street/Strip Cam75# InjectorsWalbro 255 pump@62psi base pressure & Sard FPRFIP Hurricane IM2.25" Charge Piping65mm TB4" Thick ICFull 3" straight-through exhaustTial 38mm EWG w/1 bar base pressureTurbosmart Eboost2 boost controllerTreadstone exh. manifoldTurbonetics 11021-BB Turbo w/.82AR Hot sideNJV Head3" inlet pipe w/conical filter93 octane pump gasOEM Mitsu PCV ValveBMW X5 oil separator Not sure what else you need to know about my setup to make any educated suggestions, if there's something I am leaving out please ask. Right now I just need a decent functional break-in tune. Not looking to run much if any boost at all during the next couple hundred miles but I just want to make sure I am not damaging anything with the AFR's and ignition tables. I took the car for a shakedown run today and it drove well. No odd popping or bucking or anything out of the ordinary but you gurus know better than I do if something is way out. Thanks. Edited September 15, 2015 by polarisman14 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Funky Phil Posted September 15, 2015 Report Share Posted September 15, 2015 (edited) wheres the spark table for while your loaded? That only shows for vac-atmo.Lots of wasted cells like that. Also your fuel map is missing a ton of stuff as well. Why so much fuel pressure? Edited September 15, 2015 by Funky Phil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
polarisman14 Posted September 15, 2015 Report Share Posted September 15, 2015 (edited) Honestly I am new to the tuning thing and this is going off of an old tune from Scott that is NOT designed for this setup right now--that's why it may look a little off. Where do I go to find my other tables? I am using TunerStudio and just looked in the basic settings list to find these. I totally forgot to put in what I was using for ignition control and I assume that's important: Stock dizzy locked out w/CR125 pickupMSD 6a ignition control box w/tach adapterMSD blaster coilNGK wiresPlugs gapped at .030" There's so much fuel pressure because I am hoping to hit 400whp-ish on this setup and don't want to adjust base fuel pressure in the future to compensate--my understanding is that also requires essentially retuning if you do that. I was considering using 50psi for base pressure but don't know if that will be enough. Thinking my final boost pressure will be in the 20psi range--planning on adding meth injection in the spring when I have money for that and a real tune. My last tune was based on 60psi pressure but that was with the stock fuel pump and I assume the fuel pressure was falling off on high rpms because it just couldn't keep up. I didn't change the fuel pressure but went from a dry to liquid filled gauge and it's reading 62psi at idle so that must just be the discrepancy between the gauges. EDIT: Snooped around a bit more on TS and found the other maps under Extended. http://i512.photobucket.com/albums/t324/polarisman14/StarQuest/tune_print_screen_9_14_152.jpg Edited September 15, 2015 by polarisman14 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Funky Phil Posted September 15, 2015 Report Share Posted September 15, 2015 750's will do over 450whp at thier designed base pressure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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