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slowquest last won the day on September 29 2015

slowquest had the most liked content!

About slowquest

  • Birthday 01/20/1969

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    Serbia Black
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  1. Is that SAI reading correct? A lot of shops won't measure it, some screw it up when they do. A few probably have no idea what it is. If it's correct, i'd be worried about it.
  2. Double check the throttle body flange. Those were bad for cracking off of the manifold and would create the issue you describe. The disc part your pointing is just acts as a dampener on the throttle plate so that it doesn't slam closed when you let off the throttle. It can cause a stall if you do and that part is faulty. It should not cause any other driveability issues.
  3. gotcha, let me see what I can figure out when I get home. I've got a rear subrame assy sitting in the garage, should be fairly easy to measure
  4. Unless your running stock rims, I'd just use the backspace measurement of the rims you are using and the body width at the wheel opening to figure out the optimum width of the axle, not just go back to stock.
  5. Just making a rear yoke to accept the 1350 joint mated to the stock diff flange would be 75% of the battle. A lot of us are running different transmissions that we can get shafts and front yokes for, it's the rear that's always the issue.
  6. On the one I posted pics of, there weren't any spacer washers. Those would effectively move the shock out to miss the "mole hills" I still think the best bet for this is to massage that ridge down. The washers are also a great idea, could even use shims there to give it more of a stock look. Holes and grommets would be an absolute last resort for me, even if I had to repaint the strut towers.
  7. after thinking about this for a bit (no pun intended) I don't think I'd drill those out. Mitsu put them there to help strengthen that spot and totally removing them would for sure weaken it. Also, drilling a hole where I show the paint flake would need to be a pretty big hole.
  8. I think that it looks bowed just a bit directly over the wheel wells. I'd double check the shocks and strut tower for witness marks
  9. You can see on the first pic where the strut has been hitting in two places. Both of those need clearanced. This tower has already had the first nub beat down, second one needs beat down. Also needs beat down where there paint is chipped and the red is showing through on the second pic. All of this needs to be done to both sides.
  10. Got mine today. Gotta say these welds look amazing! Almost hate to paint over them.
  11. Any update on this? Need to get this engine in soon.
  12. Yeah, it really sucked, when I was taking the rear subframe out, it ripped the mount on the drivers side completely out. I've never seen one that bad before that the outside of the body still looked pretty good. It had been hit on the pass front at some point in it's life, the hood, header panel, and pass fender were all not original to the car, and the entire thing had been painted.
  13. I no longer have that car, the floor and rocker structure were rusted out very badly where the quarter meets the rocker. I ended up junking the body. I've still got all of the body panels, most of the suspension is in the car in this post, most of the engine parts are sitting on a shelf in the garage. I was sad to see it go. I love auto cars.
  14. Yes, ford GT, more than likely a replica.
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