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Hawk user's (aditional help file's


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ok  just how many guys are useing the Hawk  ecu  system,, lets  see if  we can't get togather and share  info , tips  , short cuts etc ,

come on guys  let's get togather

 

i know  these guys are  runing the Hawk

 

 

Tainter's  

Chiplee  

Shelby

Gz21

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6-23-04  took  her for a road test  ;D

she did  very well, much better then i had  hope'd for ,  behave'd like a lady   did nothing  wrong   ;D

 

so after 4 yr's and   two  fuel  systems in one  month  i  have a runing   MPi  truck

deff got to have the bov  bypass on tho hehe

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  • 2 weeks later...

ok  for those thinking about or   trying to  install a Hawk ecu, i finaly  got a reply back  from  from the co (speedtechnology) on the  install and help set up  files,

they said they were in the process of  makeing  up  new  files to assist  installers,but  were not  complete yet, they did how ever  send me what they  had finesh'd at this point

so any one needing or wanting to look them over , pm me and i'l  email the files to them , they do answer some  small questions that help a  great  deal

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oops sorry the  hawk  is going  for arround $750  i beleave

 

 

ok  just  some   updates beleave it or now i am still   geting  emails  back  from the hawk guys , and slowly   geting more  and more info  :)  hope it continues

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I've posted this stuff a couple times.    No one seems to care so maybe it's all obvious information.  I'll throw it out again now for you guys to use or ignore as you see fit.

 

Things I wish I'd known before I started my Hawk EC21 installation.

 

Crank pully must be marked at 22 and 60 degrees BTDC.  To do this use the following formula

                    Diameter (3.14)

                            360             Then multiply that number by 22 and 60 to get the distances you want to measure back from TDC to make your marks.  Or if you trust it you can measure the distance between the marks on the timing cover.  20 degrees will be close enough so obviously the distance between the TDC mark and 10 degrees BTDC is 10 degrees.  Make your mark twice that distance from the TDC mark on the crankpulley  at 20degrees BTDC.  The 60 degree mark should be self explainatory now using this method.

 

 

If you plan to use an IAC (idle air control) valve get a GM/Delco 4 wire idle air control valve  PN: 21738, while you're at it Get the connector for it PN: PT773 .  This thing only works with GM Throttle bodies so if you have a ford don't bother.  And the hawk can't control a 2 wire stepper.

 

Get a 1000 ohm resister at Radio Shack, I'll explain why later, you may or may not need it but you don't want to run out for it when you start..

 

Get a Bosch ignitor module  PN 9222067024 This is the one the Hawk manufacture always uses, however just about any Bosch module will work.  If you find one that looks anything like this http://www.geocities.com/chip_lee_iii/ignitors.html get the number off of it and call efi hardware they'll be able to get you the wiring diagram for just about any bosch ignitor, and they're happy to do it.

         Pin 16--------------(-coil wire)

         Pin 15--------------(+coil wire)

         Pin 7---------------(ignition output from Hawk)

         Pin 3---------------(ignition ground)

 *NOTE* this assumes the ignition coil has its own power supply.  This module takes its power from the hawk.

 

Get at least 3 bosch relays, but 4 is ideal.

    Wiring relays:  find these numbers on the relay diagram imprinted on the relay.

30---Power to relay 12v

85 or 86 get a switched 12v input, but whichever one does not get power has to get the Hawk input wire for whatever you're  relaying.  So 85 or 86 whichever one you didn't put a second hot wire into get's the  signal wire from the Hawk

87---Power to the item   It is imperative that the switched 12v signal is powered with the ignition switch in the start position and the run position, not just in run: I used the coil pos.

    You should relay the Fuel pump, Injectors, Coil and the constant hot 12v in on the ecu "B5"  If you want to use only 3 relays you can run the pump and injectors together so you can easily disable the whole fuel system.  You may encounter tuning situations where you want the pump disabled, but not the injectors, more likely vice versa but that's something to consider when installing relays.

 

Determining which wire goes where on the Ford TPS without the proper connector:

 

Get out your volt meter and two of the three posts will have a set resistance between each other no matter how you connect the meter.  One of these is power the other is ground.  Now to determine which is which:  The other post will have variable resistance between itself and either of the two power and ground posts.  With the third post connected switch the other meter wire back and forth between the power and ground.  Whichever one gives the highest resistance is the power, and now you've identified all three.

 

 

When you think it's time to crank her up think again.  Slow down and do the following:

 

Remove plugs so that you can crank the motor and get a good cranking speed to check base timing at 10degrees BTDC without starting the car

This may require Trigger adjustments (turning the dizzy)  Use a timing light just like you would any other time.

Remove the coil relay (or coil wire) and remove fuel rail with injectors attached and check fuel flow to the injectors, (catch the fuel with an oil drain pan or something)

In this step you confirm fuel pressure and injector firing and you know it's timed so you've saved some life on your starter and battery instead of just using trial and error on a new ECU.

 

The TB must be calibrated:  See the Hawk manual and know that we can use the autocal because we are not using the TPS for load sensing.  I need to redo this step but my car runs fine with it out of cal.

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hey Chip  i been waiting  for you to come arround , hope your  gona be home soon   i got some things  to chat  with  you about , i did  finaly get a how to  on the  wireing install from them  hawk  guys,, and the  tps  cal has been change'd on the  new program, it some what self  adjusting  once you set the proper mode, and  open and close the tps with out the engine runing then  change back the  tps cal mode

but  geting  info out of these guys is like   geting   money from  trump

also  those 4 wire  bosh igniters are aussie only as far as i can  find they are all  5 wire  over here  ,so  untill i find the proper  wireing i'm runing an  HEI  igniter

also the 60 degree BTDC  will take  care of it's self  with the use of an aussie magna dist , just install the rotor  180  out  and it'l amost align  right where the   oem cap  did , then  simple adj it to the dial'd in  time and your all set ( 8btdc or 10 btdc as how ever it is set up ,  this also elims th e need to clock the rotor , sence the aussie magna was also set up  on a 60 degree   befor  tdc  nornmal  fireing time

any way  your hard  learn'd info is  greatly  look'd forward to ,  maybe we can get togather and hash  out a  true  how to install and  set up the  system

sepecialy the  hot soak  calibtation and the tps  rerichment   funtion

i have also found their  preset  map  stops changeing at  3.75 volts , and from there to  4.9 volts reads the  same  

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I'm home for 3 weeks Shelby.  I've been waiting for you to dive into the hawk so I could finally get mine set up right.  I've been getting by but I'm convinced there's a whole lot of tuning left on this engine, and there probably always will be.  I still only run 22* of timing in the top end and I've never really messed with it.  Nor have I messed with most of the fine tuning settings available in the hawk.   I've got a 4 day weekend here though so I'd be up for digging into that stuff a bit.  Unfortunately I still need rings on number 3 like Hugh just did.  I wanted to ask you what you think of that job, replacing rings on one cylinder I mean.  I suppose it's safe as long as you get a good hone and install the new total seals dry.  Those will be here in a few days and installed next weekend.  We'd probably be better off talking on the phone don't ya think?
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  • 3 years later...
good to hear from you today Chip, we'l get this thing figure'd out one way or another ;D

 

 

hate to bring back an ancient thread but I need these files shelby is talking about in here, and the new software would be sweet too.

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I'm flying up to get mine in a week and plan to dyno tune it on Thurs. the 27th.

 

Will be running the Hawk with their upgraded software. Might need a bit of a different map for the S256 turbo.

 

I really like what I've seen so far with the software. Lots of options and the 125rpm incriment fields seem much better than MegaSquirts 12x12 tables.

 

Will be glad to share maps later, assuming they'll be usable for anybody else.

 

Question: What setting or modifier might I use to tune for better milage on the highway portions of my 1400 mile cruise? Any simple setting that will cut it or would a diff. map with lesser fuel at lower loads in the 2500-3800 rpm range be the way to go?

 

It'll take 4 days with stops at friend's pads along the way, so don't worry that I'll be sleepy or get a sore rear end.

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I'm flying up to get mine in a week and plan to dyno tune it on Thurs. the 27th.

 

Will be running the Hawk with their upgraded software. Might need a bit of a different map for the S256 turbo.

 

I really like what I've seen so far with the software. Lots of options and the 125rpm incriment fields seem much better than MegaSquirts 12x12 tables.

 

Will be glad to share maps later, assuming they'll be usable for anybody else.

 

Question: What setting or modifier might I use to tune for better milage on the highway portions of my 1400 mile cruise? Any simple setting that will cut it or would a diff. map with lesser fuel at lower loads in the 2500-3800 rpm range be the way to go?

 

It'll take 4 days with stops at friend's pads along the way, so don't worry that I'll be sleepy or get a sore rear end.

 

 

You could run it in closed loop or manually set it leaner than that by manipulating the maps directly. Most of your cruise will happen in 4 to 6 map points so if you had a passenger and a wideband you could have them input values slightly lower and lower until it cruised fine but was operating around 15:1 or even 16:1. You want to be careful here obviously but I've gotten as much as 27mpg out of my car on long trips.

 

Yeah I couldn't handle 12x12 tables. I don't think you can even reduce the hawk that far down in resolution. You can reduce it though, and the computer will interpolate for values you didn't program.

 

Got a copy of this "new software" everyone's talking about. Is it a firmware upgrade or just new tuning software?

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You could run it in closed loop or manually set it leaner than that by manipulating the maps directly. Most of your cruise will happen in 4 to 6 map points so if you had a passenger and a wideband you could have them input values slightly lower and lower until it cruised fine but was operating around 15:1 or even 16:1. You want to be careful here obviously but I've gotten as much as 27mpg out of my car on long trips.

 

Yeah I couldn't handle 12x12 tables. I don't think you can even reduce the hawk that far down in resolution. You can reduce it though, and the computer will interpolate for values you didn't program.

 

Got a copy of this "new software" everyone's talking about. Is it a firmware upgrade or just new tuning software?

 

I believe it's a firmware upgrade. Mine controls each injector vs. a simplier version where the injectors are wired as 2 pairs. I'm not sure about any other differences, since I've never run it before or used other versions. Tainters could maybe answer that, or perhaps Substock...he did most of the wiring before selling it to me.

 

I do like the reduction capability for a quick initial tune, where it fills in the gaps of smaller rpm increments. I do have a wideband and we will be able to alter a highway map with lower values in that range. Now I'd really love to find a cheap ol' small laptop, wire it up, and toss a touchscreen monitor in there to tune on, but that's for another day.

 

Also, I'm sure I could burn off a copy of the software when I get it back. Maybe even email it. Follow up in April.

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I believe it's a firmware upgrade. Mine controls each injector vs. a simplier version where the injectors are wired as 2 pairs. I'm not sure about any other differences, since I've never run it before or used other versions. Tainters could maybe answer that, or perhaps Substock...he did most of the wiring before selling it to me.

 

I do like the reduction capability for a quick initial tune, where it fills in the gaps of smaller rpm increments. I do have a wideband and we will be able to alter a highway map with lower values in that range. Now I'd really love to find a cheap ol' small laptop, wire it up, and toss a touchscreen monitor in there to tune on, but that's for another day.

 

Also, I'm sure I could burn off a copy of the software when I get it back. Maybe even email it. Follow up in April.

 

 

cool

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hey can use a hand here can I download any ones Software or can they E-mail it to me AT MattTainter@hotmail.com

 

We are running in to issuses with the 4 driver unit not wanting to work right with the software we have I have V1.6 right now does any one have any Idea's on what to try?

 

The sensors are not reading right doesn any of have a 4 Driver map??? that they know works?

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hey can use a hand here can I download any ones Software or can they E-mail it to me AT MattTainter@hotmail.com

 

We are running in to issuses with the 4 driver unit not wanting to work right with the software we have I have V1.6 right now does any one have any Idea's on what to try?

 

The sensors are not reading right doesn any of have a 4 Driver map??? that they know works?

 

Yes. Please help!!!

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