Gz21

Do you have any pictures of it?

What turbo are you running?

Thanks chip. Just sent you an email from gz21@excite.com Craig

I have 65lb/hr injectors and have the boost set to 15psi. Before the MPI, the car seemed to pull alittle harder up top. Not all the way to redline but more then it does now. It is not rich, when on boost the car is typically between 12:1 and 13:1. I think that is pretty much where it needs to be. I thought the "c" wheel turbo lost efficiency over 15psi? That is why I have never had it set any higher.

No problem. I am not really in a hurry. Just started playing around with the car again and I would just like to compare another map. I am wondering if that could be some of my problem on the top end. I haven't seen anyother hawk maps to compare.

That just seems like to small of a turbo for MPI. I have a 17c and the power seems to fall off above 4000-4500RPM. I have been thinking about changing to a bigger turbo unless there is something I am missing in tuning it. Chip, is there any chance you could post your ignition map? I have the Hawk as well and I would like to compare it to mine. Thanks, Craig

http://www.26liter.us/gallery/albums/userpics/10020/Mvc-008f~0.jpg

Here is their website. http://www.efihardware.com/efi_ecu.html

The first one is sold. Second with bolt location broke is still available. It does not really that bad. Alittle sanding and it would be blended in so you would never see it.

TTT.....still for sale.

Shipping is approx $15. So lets just go with $50 shipped for both. How does that sound?

I have two of the mitsu valve covers for sale. One is perfectly fine and the other only has the one bolt location for the timing cover i belive on the FWD engines that was broke off. See second pic. It is just at the surface, not through the cover. $20 each plus shipping? I want to get rid of these as I have had them sitting around for a couple years. http://www.26liter.us/gallery/albums/userpics/10020/Valve_Cover_2.JPG Two pics of the one with the bolt location broke. http://www.26liter.us/gallery/albums/userpics/10020/Valve_Cover_1-2.JPG http://www.26liter.us/gallery/albums/userpics/10020/Valve_Cover_1-1.JPG

If you want to use the hall effect style you need to swap the wire from the A2 pin. I talked to the guys about this too and that is what I was told to do. The gray boxes you see are the shields that are on those wires. They are tied into the ground wire that go to the pickups. I can help you on wiring up the dizzy but I dont have the information in front of me. I will get it in a few days and post if for you. Craig

count me in as well for a +80% and a performance street disc

You can count me into Shelby. Craig

For you guys that have a wideband sensor mounted, did you mount it in the stock location? I only ask because I was reading on PLXDevices website and they state that they should be mounted a min of 24" from the block or turbo are if exposed to exhaust gases over 850C the sensor will fail. Now I am not sure what the temp of the exhaust is right after the turbo but I just want to make sure.

Thanks guys. This is atleast a start to what I am looking for. That and I just got off the phone with Steve at EFI Hardware and i got alot of good help. Basically the Hawk is looking for a voltage from the oxygen sensor. And .5V is stoich at 14.7:1. I am using a standard narrow band oxygen sensor. I did not know they are not accurate for tuning other then at steady cruise. So where can I get a wideband oxygen sensor? Right now at steady cruising mine varies from .5 up to about .8 I am trying to bring this down closer to .5

I have a question on air/fuel ratio's. I have been tunnig my car during the last week and it is actually going good, much better then i thought. I am using the hawk on my car. But I dont think that matters much for my question. There is a scale/guage on the hawk tuning screen that shows the air/fuel ratio and I have an autometer air/fuel ratio gauge. The voltage from the oxygen sensor is displayed under it the one on the hawk. Based my air fuel ratio gauge and the hawk my car is high in the stoich region while steady cruising and sligtly rich while under boost. I want to know...If the car is showing full rich on here...what kind of air fuel ratio does that correspond to? And what kind of voltage is a good stoich mixture for cruising? I am sure somebody has to know this. Thanks, Craig

Look at the size 26 batterys. I picked up an Energizer brand from Pepboys. It was not the smallest size 26 but had the highest cranking amps. It would just about fit how it was but I cut the handle off of it so it fits no problems. Craig

Do you happen to know what the part number of the bosch unit is you got? And where you got it at. Was it a direct fit to replace the magna regulator? Thanks Craig

Guys, What type of fuel pressure regulator is everyone using? Right now I have the one that came with the magna on the rail. And I think it is the cause of my problems with tuning. When i rev the car up my fuel pressure drops slightly. With the magna regulator at idle my fuel pressure is 35lbs. When I rev up the car it will drop momentarily and then go up to 40lbs. My issue that I currently have is when I try to rev the car quickly from idle it bogs/misfires and then revs. But I if I go slowly it is prefectly fine. I have read about everyones baseline fuel pressure and it ranges from in the high 20's up to 50lbs. I am using 65lb/hr injectors. So far at idle I am still running rich and do not think I am gonna be able to turn the injector time down enough to be able to get the air fuel ratio correct. I would like to get a regulator that would just drop right in place of the magna one. Anyone have one? Thanks, Craig

Not sure exactly what you mean. When I said four driver unit...I meant the hawk has four separate injectors drivers which grond the injector when it is fired. Craig

I have the four injector driver unit and have 2.0 ohm injectors. Craig

Well I finally got everything done and was able to start the car tonight. It seems like it has taken quite some time to complete the swap but it already seems worth it. And all I did was start the car and play around with it at idle so far. I am using the Hawk and it seems like it might be slightly time consuming to figure out all the settings but will be well worth it. I am going to try to get some pictures of everything this weekend and will post them in between tuning. Hopefully if the weather is nice here a few test runs will happen over the weekend. Craig

mitsusqueeshee, I mounted my throttle body upside down as you stated. You might be able to get the stock cable to work but for me the bends were to sharp. I just figured it would be easier to make another one up and have it go straight out of the firewall and right up to the TB. I should be complete with mine this weekend and I will try to get some pictures. Jonathen, How is the idle controlled with the SDS? Do you have anytype of Idle speed motor on it? I am using the Hawk and it can control a stepper motor for the idle but the Ford TB does not have provisions for it. I am alittle concerned the idle might not be steady because of this. Could you let me know. Thanks, Craig