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Window Tint


 mechengrkj
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I went and got my windows tinted yesterday and was extremely disappointed with the quality of the job on the rear hatch. There are air bubbles around every dot in the pattern around the edges, gaps along the main defrost wires, and huge gaps (~0.25") around the hinges. I went and talked to the tinters and they basically said that it's the glass's fault for being too hard to tint and just covered any gaps with blackout tape. Has anyone else had these kind of problems with their tint? Seems like every company in the valley employs total morons! I went with this company because they use 3M tint, have a lifetime warranty and have been in business for over 30 years. I figured with that much time in business they wouldn't have any issues tinting my car. Besides, I removed the entire rear interior so they could do the quarter glass without any issues. Sorry for the rant...
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Take it back to them and ask the manager if he would be ok with his car looking like that. Ask him how he would like pictures of their work plastered all over local automotive boards and Facebook, craigslist, ect. I bet you get your hatch glass redone, or you can follow through with ruining his business.

 

BC_99

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That's funny cause I went and had my windows tinted about 2 months ago and they literally told me the same thing and mine didn't come out the greatest either. Still looks better than clear though. Honestly I don't even notice it anymore. I can see how'd it'd be hard to do but I haven't really messed with tint a whole lot either Edited by LSQuest88
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Take it back to them and ask the manager if he would be ok with his car looking like that. Ask him how he would like pictures of their work plastered all over local automotive boards and Facebook, craigslist, ect. I bet you get your hatch glass redone, or you can follow through with ruining his business.

yeah that's BS, make them redo it. any quality tinter can do these hatch windows with ease. i think the tint in my 85.5 is from 1985 :lol:

 

Seriously! I think I'm going to wait a week and see if it improves as the moist evaporates. If it doesn't I'm definitely taking it back in.

That's funny cause I went and had my windows tinted about 2 months ago and they literally told me the same thing and mine didn't come out the greatest either. Still looks better than clear though. Honestly I don't even notice it anymore. I can see how'd it'd be hard to do but I haven't really messed with tint a whole lot either

 

I'm just glad that I finally won't bake inside without ac. I went from clear to 5% in the back and it's already made a huge improvement. Not to mention the 30HP upgrade! :)

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i had mine total black out on both and it's near perfect no problems like you guys describe but i'mjz and i paid 200.00 to have it tinted total black out all the way ...... black on black on blackout tint and a red on black on blackout tint sweeeet rides......
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when i got my car done they only tinted between the big defroster strips that go down the sides.

i had 2 long non tinted edges on the window. :wacko:

Same here. The guy told me he couldn't get a sliver of tint in there to adhere well enough. It's barely noticeable.

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I had mine done 10 years ago. Excellent job on every window, but like mentioned, I had the two strips of clear, on the outsides of the defrost strips. Before I even left the shop, he got my approval, and then ran a piece of electrical tape down each side. Ten years ago. The tape is still there, working fine.
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They always make that peel and cling window tint made by Gila now. Any autozone or advance auto parts should have it. They make it in different shades just like window tint usually about $12 for a 2'x6' sheet http://i1371.photobucket.com/albums/ag290/406conquest/Mobile%20Uploads/6420068_gil_js242_pri_larg_zpsv58iztvc.jpg
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If you go to a good place it's going to be easy 200-300. The dot matrix stuff on the top edges is a crap shoot on if it will stick or not, and you as the buyer will have to take on that risk if you want it tinted over the dot matrix, or if you want it tinted to the edge of it. there is a substence that is to be used to promote it adhearing to the dot matrix, but does not always work or might work and peal in a year or two.

 

As for the window it should be done in one sheet and heat shrunk down ot fit perfect. They should be use to dealing with defrost lines and know they have to work from the center all the way accross and deal with the little lines comming down.

 

First questions is why did you pay them? And if it's a good lifetime... "for any reason" shop they should redo them whenever you ask other then if it's pealing bubbled in the dot matrix, or just go out and scratch it and say O scratched redo it. Ive taken life time one's in just because they were dirty, and you can't really clean tint other then with some soft soap and water.

Edited by jszucs
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I'm glad to know that I'm not the only one to have issues!

 

If you go to a good place it's going to be easy 200-300. The dot matrix stuff on the top edges is a crap shoot on if it will stick or not, and you as the buyer will have to take on that risk if you want it tinted over the dot matrix, or if you want it tinted to the edge of it. there is a substence that is to be used to promote it adhearing to the dot matrix, but does not always work or might work and peal in a year or two.

 

As for the window it should be done in one sheet and heat shrunk down ot fit perfect. They should be use to dealing with defrost lines and know they have to work from the center all the way accross and deal with the little lines comming down.

 

First questions is why did you pay them? And if it's a good lifetime... "for any reason" shop they should redo them whenever you ask other then if it's pealing bubbled in the dot matrix, or just go out and scratch it and say O scratched redo it. Ive taken life time one's in just because they were dirty, and you can't really clean tint other then with some soft soap and water.

 

Unfortunately I made the mistake of paying them before looking very closely at it. I guess I've learned something for next time. There are only three tint companies in town and only two use 3M tint. The other company that does is just one guy that does it on the side so he is always booked. Plus he doesn't have a warranty on labor. So I was pretty much stuck with this company unless I wanted to drive 30+ miles to have it done in another city. I ended up spending about $200 to have it done.

Edited by mechengrkj
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I'm glad to know that I'm not the only one to have issues!

 

 

 

Unfortunately I made the mistake of paying them before looking very closely at it. I guess I've learned something for next time. There are only three tint companies in town and only two use 3M tint. The other company that does is just one guy that does it on the side so he is always booked. Plus he doesn't have a warranty on labor. So I was pretty much stuck with this company unless I wanted to drive 30+ miles to have it done in another city. I ended up spending about $200 to have it done.

 

I see the major mistake right there in your wording. "warranty on labor" is not what you want. For 200 250 there are plenty of places that will "warranty for any reason" Totally would have driven 30+ miles. Hope you paid with a CC and not cash. Might have some recourse if they won't help you out then. The bubbles / light spots in the dot matrix is on you, bubles / spots because of defrost lines is unacceptable. and the first one they got stuck with the whole thing should have been pealed, repreped and tinted again.

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The static cling dot matrix looking stuff works great for vertical windows but im not so sure if it will work great w the angle of our back window.

 

As far as lkke a spray tint or something of the sort, dip into a hobby shot and buy a translucent purple or grape colored paint like for spraying the inside of r/c car bodies. A candy paint will be translucent also.

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The static cling dot matrix looking stuff works great for vertical windows but im not so sure if it will work great w the angle of our back window.

 

As far as lkke a spray tint or something of the sort, dip into a hobby shot and buy a translucent purple or grape colored paint like for spraying the inside of r/c car bodies. A candy paint will be translucent also.

 

good idea but solvent and tint film do not get along. So be cautious if using paint and tint film.

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Where did you go to get it done? I've been considering getting mine redone (the old stuff is bubbling and turning purple).

 

I'm not a huge fan of the guy that does it through Don's Autobody. Where else do we have, Logan Glass and that Arizona Tint place?

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Where did you go to get it done? I've been considering getting mine redone (the old stuff is bubbling and turning purple).

 

I'm not a huge fan of the guy that does it through Don's Autobody. Where else do we have, Logan Glass and that Arizona Tint place?

 

I went to Arizona and they said they couldn't do it without pulling the quarter windows out so they sent me to Logan Glass. I had to remove the whole rear interior beforehand and clean all the old butyl rubber off the quarter glass.

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I went to Arizona and they said they couldn't do it without pulling the quarter windows out so they sent me to Logan Glass. I had to remove the whole rear interior beforehand and clean all the old butyl rubber off the quarter glass.

 

You guys need to shop around and maybe drive for a shop. for the 200-300 range..... I'll preclean the inside so there is no dust floating around, but other then that the rest of the job is on the tinter.

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Wow you guys paid a lot for tint. Local guy near me did the whole car with 15 on quarter glass and hatch and 20 on side windows for only a 140 bucks. No bubbles or anything. Never had to take interior out either
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Wow you guys paid a lot for tint. Local guy near me did the whole car with 15 on quarter glass and hatch and 20 on side windows for only a 140 bucks. No bubbles or anything. Never had to take interior out either

 

Will they redo it anytime for any reason even if you scratch them. Will they replace VERY expensive leather or suade pannels if they screw them up? Is this on a car that requires the inside trim to come off not just 1/2 A pulling the window seals back and shoving tint under it? Big windows done in a single heat shrunk sheet? 140 is pretty cheep. Good tint even in huge bulk is going to cost 40 50 of that, and a good 2 hours + work would quickly make that 90-100 not worth it. Not a spec of dust anywhere under them or I'm having you peal and redo them is what I'm talking.

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I had mine tinted 8 years ago still looks perfect all windows and full windshield 15%.

 

How is that possible? They get dirty and you can't use solvent to clean them. I like the option to take mine back once they get dirty and have them redone. And I garontee I can find defects in them. Someoen getting 140 is NOT taking the inside apart and fully cleaning before install.

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