Blissland3 Posted April 19, 2014 Report Share Posted April 19, 2014 This car is good for parting out. It might be possible to get it running well again but it would take a lot of work. I'd like to get $1,000. All the relevant information is available at http://www.blissland.net/offer/ and transcribed here. 1987 Gold Mitsubishi Starion LE flatbody for sale Fair Warning / Disclaimer : This is highly modified with automatic transmission. Below are listed the problems (according to me) as well as the modifications (according to the previous owner). Evidently he had too many aftermarket parts and not enough sense to put them together, and evidently I didn't have enough sense to realize that, and once I did realize it, he did not have the decency to give my money back (despite being someone I thought was one of my best friends for 24 years). I will not be able to give your money back either, but unlike the previous owner I am being up front about the condition of this vehicle. I would prefer to keep it but cannot manage to diagnose and fix the multitude of serious malfunctions, as enumerated below. It could be running again if the cooling system is repaired, but restoration would require a lot of parts and a fully equipped shop. If it's parted out it can fetch maybe $3,000 or maybe more. The suspension is good (apart from rear shocks and bump stops as far as I can tell). The turbocharger and BOV are good as far as I can tell. A lot of parts are fairly new and probably in good condition including most of the brake components and fuel system components. They just don't work the way they've been put together, possibly because of faulty vacuum. And it's impossible to focus on that while everything else is breaking down. Power assist to the steering has been eliminated. Air conditioning, the ridiculous emissions controls, and the very dangerous ABS have been eliminated. Although I'm pretty sure the p.s. gear box is still mounted. Included with the car is a newly refurbished power brake booster (yet to be installed) plus a few other spare parts, and an original Owner's Manual. I've been using 93 octane pump gasoline (since there is every reason to and no reason not to) and Lucas F.I. cleaner. The engine has been taking Royal Purple 10w-30 oil but I guess any sythetic is ok. My preferred filter has been K&N HP-1005. Last oil and filter change was November 2013. The OEM specified torque for the lug nuts is highly conservative and quite possibly too low considering the age of the wheels. They can easily withstand 100 ft. lbs. without distortion. Lug nut key should be in the interior center console. Photos will be forthcoming in the event that anyone needs to see them. Suffice to say though that the car is an eyesore. I am in Kingston, New York. MODIFICATIONS: The driver seat has been moved back to provide more leg room and welded in an upright position. (April 2013) "Stainless" exhaust is a misnomer. It may be steel but it's hardly stainless. Note: This character: ’ appears frequently. I don't know what it's supposed to be. Everything below was copied and pasted from what the previous owner sent to me. Engine, etc.: Shaved/lightened block inside and out, never bored, deletedbalance shafts Balanced rods with ARP rod bolts New stock Perfect Circle pistons with Hastings Chrome rings,King main and rod bearings Lightened one-piece ’83 crank pulley, entire rotating assembly balanced Clearwater NJV head,ported, 1mm O/S SS valves, 3-angle valvejob, intake rockers lightened, ARP studs for intake and exhaust, ARP headstuds, shaved and powdercoated valvecover, Schneider 274 cam, powdercoated timing cover, EGR passages welded 14G turbo, ported and Swain-Tec coated turbo housing ,stress relieved, shaved, ported and Swain-Tec coated exhaust manifold Braided oil and water turbo lines Braided oil cooler lines 2.5 Stainless MK1 turbo back exhaust, Dynamax Ultraflow ‘6in. round SS muffler Custom hardpipes all the way from turbo to TB, siliconecouplers and T-clamps, HKS racing BOV 52mm TB, ported injector housing. Ported and powdercoated intake manifold, EGRpassages deleted/welded FIP TB-Pro2R standalone fuel management (sensors, harness,injectors, fuel rail) Walbro fuel pump, braided fuel lines from firewall up,Russell fuel filter Mallory 6A ignition box, MSD tach adapter, Magnacor wires Optima battery, 2 gauge ground cables, 110 amp alternatorwith circuit breaker and 2 gauge charge cable, fuse box instead of fusiblelinks Aluminum BeCool radiator, flexfan, aux. rad. Fan, silicone heater hoses HD rebuild on auto tranny, custom valve body, Level 103200Rpm stall converter, bigger cooler with braided lines Over $300 in SS metric bolts in engine compartment andthroughout car Suspension: 4-to-5 lug conversion, bigger Cross-drilled and slottedrotors, painted calipers F/R with Speed bleeders installed, SS brake lines F/R ’88 rear end and 6-boltaxles. 7in rims front, 8in rear. 205/50Falken tires front 225/45 rear KYB struts F/R S/T springs and swaybars F/R Cusco camber plates front, Anti-M power camber plates rear. S&M triangulated strut bars F/R All polyurethane bushings in front suspension. Manual steering conversion, welded coupler. Interior: Freshly upholstered front “88 seats, Corbeau driver harness,non-auto seatbelt driver trim. Custom dash lens with insert and side blockoffs, Bride 320mmsteering wheel Autometer fuel press. and boost gauge, Halmeter af30 A/F ratio meter ’88 black HVAC controls, cupholders in door panels, customrubber diamond plate floor mats, racing pedal covers, fire extinguisher intrunk , Pioneer speakers Body: Supra style hatch wing, deleted auto antenna/roof mountedHirschmann amplified antenna, LED bulbs throughout the car, Silverstarheadlights, clear foglights Custom hood vents and custom hood lifts Cut and re-welded front bumper support, custom bumper andfront spoiler for larger intercooler opening Problems requiring attention (7/30/13 except where indicated):1. (2/26/14) A heater hose or more likely the heater core exploded and spilled coolant all over the cabin floor. That has to be diagnosed and repaired before you even attempt to start the engine. It would require a full day of work opening up the interior front panel. The instrument cluster and wiring harness might have been damaged, as well as the FCU. So you'll probably want to tow it away. 2. Engine stalls frequently without throttle input especially when cold. ISC is absent because it is incompatible with the aftermarket fuel system. Turbo lag and especially slow throttle response are pronounced. The throttle cable is frayed and probably stretched out. The throttle body might need replacement. The fuel map needs judicious tuning. It requires the MegaSquirt software or something compatible. A serial cable or serial-USB adapter is required to connect your portable computer to the ECU (located under the glove box). You must know what you're doing or the car can easily be rendered non-functional. 3. The brakes have several issues yet to be diagnosed. Response is not smooth/linear making proper driving technique impossible. The rear do nothing when the pedal is depressed although the hand brake moves one of the caliper pistons. Power assist comes on suddenly but if you press the pedal to the floor the wheels spin freely. Rather dangerous. No vacuum is being reserved. The master cylinder and front discs and pads and vacuum valve were recently replaced but had no effect. 4. Passenger side frame rail has a 16" rotten section. 7. Rust holes in skirting panels on either side. Right side front end (body only) is badly banged up from a collision while parked. Also the entire body needs finishing. 8. Rear bumper is skewed and appears rotten underneath. 9. Steering wheel squeaks and has about an inch or more of play. Not sure how that translates to degrees ... maybe 10 or more. ISSUES OF WHICH I AM AWARE (2/20/14)Throttle cable needs replacement a.s.a.p.Shifter linkage needs repairParking brake cable needs replacementOil pressure gauge needs repairNo heat going to heaterCoolant temperature rises too high before stabilisingSpark plugs no doubt are fouled (I cannot guarantee anti-seize was applied to the threads either)Fuel system needs tuning badlyFuel pressure is erratic (Fuel pressure regulator was replaced but it didn't fix anything)Distributor vacuum advance module possibly needs replacementTends to stall since there is no ISC to compensate for other issues (I'm keeping the idle high until this is addressed although it could go higher still)Apparently no hydraulic pressure to rear brake linesFront brakes function erratically (possibly a vacuum issue and possibly related to the ABS bypass)Exhaust system needs extensive repair or replacement (bent and twisted and the downpipe is making contact with the engine block and the muffler is skewed to the right side)Passenger side frame rail needs repairIgnition wires possibly need replacement (can't say for sure if intermittent misfiring is due to electrical or fuel delivery)Filters need replacementFuel pump possibly needs replacementPiston rings possibly need replacement (evidently some blow-by)Valve seals possibly need replacement (can only get worse over time)Balance shaft cover gasket definitely needs replacement (leaking fluids)Cylinder head gasket possibly needs replacementTiming chain cover gasket possibly needs replacementTransmission is not connected properly (torque converter bangs around ... may be impossible to fix without re-mounting the motor)Rear shock absorbers and bump stops need replacementRear tires need replacement soon (all-season 225/45-16 are no longer available)Entire body needs everything Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
speedyquest Posted April 20, 2014 Report Share Posted April 20, 2014 I have two questions. 1) In your first paragraph you say "A lot of parts are fairly new and probably in good condition including most of the brake components and fuel system components" . But later you say this "The brakes have several issues yet to be diagnosed. Response is not smooth/linear making proper driving technique impossible. The rear do nothing when the pedal is depressed although the hand brake moves one of the caliper pistons. Power assist comes on suddenly but if you press the pedal to the floor the wheels spin freely. Rather dangerous. No vacuum is being reserved. The master cylinder and front discs and pads and vacuum valve were recently replaced but had no effect. " That doesn't seem to correlate very well. 2) Why did you see fit to attempt to throw the previous owner under the bus? You obviously know he is a member here and is going to read this. Since this is a for sale post I don't how it could be relevant. I will say though that by doing I personally feel you've opened up the topic. Here is my personal view on the situation based upon my very limited knowledge. Your buddy who was obviously into these cars quite a bit sold you his car which was very modified. You had to have been aware of the extensive modifications. I am basing this off of two things, first in this post you say " we were best friends for 24 years", and secondly because you state that the specs you are listing were sent to you by him. Now I do not mean this to be an insult but its clear by your post that you do not have an intimate knowledge of these cars and compound that with the fact that the car is highly modified its no surprise that you have had nothing but problems "fixing" the car. My only point here is that the fact is you bought a car from a friend of yours knowing it was extensively modified and after owning it could not keep it running / maintaining it. You are attempting blame your friend but ultimately you purchased the car with full knowledge of what you were purchasing. All in all we are adults and our actions are our own. Good luck with the sale of the car, but maybe you should edit your post and remove the unneeded information and clarify the discrepancies. Allen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87redcat Posted April 20, 2014 Report Share Posted April 20, 2014 add this to the list of things... CURRENT OWNER NEEDS REPLACED A.S.A.P... somebody buy this car and save it from this mechanical hack Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IntercooledFlatty Posted April 20, 2014 Report Share Posted April 20, 2014 pics Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
taeisallin Posted April 20, 2014 Report Share Posted April 20, 2014 This is Zacteck's old car. Hmmmmm. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
screemin eagle Posted April 20, 2014 Report Share Posted April 20, 2014 Pics? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Malykaii Posted April 21, 2014 Report Share Posted April 21, 2014 Id bite if it wasnt an auto. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Malykaii Posted April 22, 2014 Report Share Posted April 22, 2014 Actually... can you pm me pics of the body damage you speak of and the interior. Swapping in a manual trans should be easy. Last I heard natallica had a complete kit ready to go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
screemin eagle Posted April 22, 2014 Report Share Posted April 22, 2014 The seats were sweet re wrapped leather when I sold them to zack. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
taeisallin Posted April 23, 2014 Report Share Posted April 23, 2014 I've seen the seats. That's one reason I'm thinking of jumping on it... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Edde Posted April 25, 2014 Report Share Posted April 25, 2014 Wow, someone didn't give you your money back on a used car. What, was it still in warranty? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Adams Posted April 27, 2014 Report Share Posted April 27, 2014 http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a63/nightmajik/toy-story-popcorn_zpsa3234615.gif Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrvwbug Posted April 27, 2014 Report Share Posted April 27, 2014 I agree I do not like autos...But I still respect the fact it's a StarQuest. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Malykaii Posted April 28, 2014 Report Share Posted April 28, 2014 PM sent a while back. Awaiting response. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZacMan Posted April 28, 2014 Report Share Posted April 28, 2014 3. The brakes have several issues yet to be diagnosed. Response is not smooth/linear making proper driving technique impossible. The rear do nothing when the pedal is depressed although the hand brake moves one of the caliper pistons. Power assist comes on suddenly but if you press the pedal to the floor the wheels spin freely. Rather dangerous. No vacuum is being reserved. The master cylinder and front discs and pads and vacuum valve were recently replaced but had no effect. I'm betting the reaction disc has fallen out of place in the booster. Pretty easy fix if you take the booster out of the car. Has happened to me before on my Starion while I had the booster out and stored it on it's side. This is for a 240Z, but it's the same in the Starion:http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/69706-reaction-disk-pictures-and-walkthrough/ Sorry for cluttering up a for sale thread, It'll be easier to sell if the brakes are at least semi-working! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Malykaii Posted April 28, 2014 Report Share Posted April 28, 2014 It would be easier to sell if the guy actually got back to us. Tae and I are both interested and local too. But yeah, I figured it was a brake booster problem myself. Cool stuff bro. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blissland3 Posted April 28, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 28, 2014 I'm very sorry to everyone for not responding sooner. I have been trusting someone else to monigtor this topic for me and they didn't. So I'll do that from now on and I'll do my best to address all of your questions.- Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blissland3 Posted April 28, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 28, 2014 Speedyquest1. fair enough. I was trying to get across that a lot of the parts are almost brand new but the car as a whole is not put together well. No one has been able to determine why the brakes don't work properly. My best guess is a problem with vacuum. I have an unused booster, the front discs are drilled and (I think ... I'm not near the car now) slotted and practically brand new. The master cylinder is practically brand new (though it's already rusted). Those all represent failed attempts to get the brakes working right. It's not because of bad parts.2. I would throw the previous owner under a bus literally if I could get away with it. He ripped me off for 6 grand. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blissland3 Posted April 28, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 28, 2014 Malykaii .... I understand your disappontment with the transmission. But even if it was a 5 speed it would take a tremendous amount of work to get it running well. It's best for parts. I replied to your e mail. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blissland3 Posted April 28, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 28, 2014 I'll try to get some pictures up as soon as I can. It will take at least a day or 2. It's not pretty though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blissland3 Posted April 28, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 28, 2014 ZacMan ... thank you for the advice. I was bringing the car to a mechanic and replaced about a half dozen brake components and he never suggested what you did. Ironically I bought a refurbished brake booster but never had it installed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blissland3 Posted April 28, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 28, 2014 Again apologies to everyone for leaving you hanging (except the a-holes ... your comments are not as witty as you think). I guess the addage is true, if you want something done right do it yourself. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blissland3 Posted April 30, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 30, 2014 I've started a new topic with pictures for the same car. I'll be monitoring this personally so there won't be any unwarranted delays. http://www.starquest...howtopic=142626 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vbrad511 Posted May 1, 2014 Report Share Posted May 1, 2014 Many years ago I had a buddy named Bill who had a very nice lifted 3/4 ton 4WD Ford truck. Had a bunch of suspension goodies, a few go faster things, and a set of (I believe) 38's or 40's on it. As nice as it was, it took a fair amount of regular maintenance to keep it running right and on the road. I bet we swapped a ujoint or 2 every 3 or 4 months, valve cover gaskets, etc... .There was a girl (Angie) who ran around in similar circles who LOVED the truck. Just had to have a ride in it whenever she saw us out in it. Up in the air like it was, it was a challenge for her just to get up in the thing, and boy did it shine. Bill ended up married (not to her) and had a baby on the way and they needed a more practical vehicle for the soon-to-be family, so he put the truck up for sale. Angie, of course, was the first one in line for it. She just HAD to have the truck. I called her and told her she should probably steer clear, and did my best to explain the man-hours of labor it took to keep it functional and pretty. Bill tried to tell her too, but she was love-blind. She had that tunnel vision and nothing was going to stop her from owning that truck. She ended up buying it, and of course, having troubles with it. Not knowing what she was doing she took it to a shop that proceeded to rack up the repair bills. She was madder than h3ll, swore that Bill ripped her off, that he should've never sold her that POS truck, just blamed him all the way. Bottom line, this girl had no business buying a modified vehicle that she 1, didn't understand beyond the curb-appeal, and 2, couldn't turn the wrenches on herself. Moral of their story (applies here too)...if you can't maintain a vehicle, and you don't have an affordable, QUALIFIED mechanic on hand, don't buy something that's going to need extended understanding, and potentially hours of service to keep it on the road. Everybody will lose. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
speedyquest Posted May 1, 2014 Report Share Posted May 1, 2014 Well said vbrad, I entirely agree. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.