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oil pressure is too low- Pictures

fromji

By fromji,
in Virtual Mechanic

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fromji Newbie

fromji

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I attached two photos. one is from my old one (4~5 years ago) and one is from current

one ( 88 Tsi Auto)

 

If you see the second photo It is at around 66mile per an hour. but even I go 80mile per an hour

oil pressure is almost same level ( below middle ) with the second one you see.

 

I use to use regular engine oil 4~5 years but now I am using Mobile Synthetic

anyone knows what is the problem? and do I need to fix this?

post-3975-0-32475800-1389412782_thumb.jpg

post-3975-0-17181900-1389413536_thumb.jpg

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vbrad511 Newbie

vbrad511

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Bear in mind that our gauges aren't really meant to be accurate for reading pressure. The're there to give us an idea of how our cars run normally. Once you get used to where the gauge normally reads you can be watchful of pressure running low, even if you don't have an exact number.

Change the sender if you're worried about it. If you're really worried, get the mechanical gauge.

BTW, what weight oil are you running?

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fromji Newbie

fromji

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Thanks guys

I will check actual gauge and sending unit.

reason I post low oil pressure is that from time to time car goes dead when I stop at signal

RPM drop down and dead no problem for re starts though

 

and I this may be because of low oil pressure when I stop at signal oil pressure usually goes down to near

to Low mark

Edited by fromji
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BC_99 Newbie

BC_99

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You will be able to find the part number in the FSM or by going to this site and looking it up in the parts locator manual.

http://www.starquestgarage.com/

 

Looks like part number MD09 2660. From there you can do a google search of that part number for matches, ect.

https://www.google.com/#q=MD092660

 

or I like to use this website sometimes for some of the harder to find parts.

http://www.amayama.com/

 

here is the link to look up Starion specific parts with that site.

http://mitsubishi.epc-data.com/starion/a187a/mnfg/

 

and finally the link for your sending unit at that site.

http://mitsubishi.epc-data.com/starion/a187a/mnfg/engine/oil-press-switch-or-gauge-unit/1693/

 

Save some of this stuff to your favorites for quick reference in the future.

 

Cheers,

 

BC_99

Edited by BC_99
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Starfighterpilot Newbie

Starfighterpilot

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I attached two photos. one is from my old one (4~5 years ago) and one is from current

one ( 88 Tsi Auto)

 

If you see the second photo It is at around 66mile per an hour. but even I go 80mile per an hour

oil pressure is almost same level ( below middle ) with the second one you see.

 

I use to use regular engine oil 4~5 years but now I am using Mobile Synthetic

anyone knows what is the problem? and do I need to fix this?

 

What weight of "regular" dinosaur engine oil were you using when the original picture was taken?

 

What weight of Mobil Synthetic engine oil are you using when the second picture was taken?

 

Weather you are running dinosaur oil or synthetic oil should not effect engine oil pressure. I have found over the years that the weight "viscosity" of the engine oil being used dramatically effects the engine oil pressure.

 

I may be wrong, but it appears to me, by what you described and are showing in your second picture is a result of using 5W-30 engine oil.

 

Why you may ask? Well, I experimented a couple of years ago, and ran Castrol 5W-30 engine oil in the Old Broads engine and I had almost the same oil pressure that you show in the second picture. I saw that oil pressure while tooling around town after the oil change and immediately dumped the new 5W-30 oil with less than 50 miles on it, and went back to 10W-40 engine oil. Guess what? Engine oil pressure went back up to a little higher than what you showed in picture #1.

 

I personally believe that the G54B T engine was not designed for the cold start up temperature lower viscosity weight of 5W engine oil unless you are living in Alaska or Upper MN, MT, ND, or Michigan in sub zero temperatures during the winter; and it doesn't have roller tappets or the TIGHT engine clearances that the newer model engines have. You live in New Jersey and 10W or 20W weight oil is perfectly fine for cold engine start up during the winter. I sure as hell would not run 5W in the summer. SEE http://www.mobiloil....Collection.aspx

 

Try changing your engine oil to 10W-40 and see what happens to engine oil pressure. Make sure that the oil that you use has 1100 PPM of ZDDP in it, or you will trash your cam and lifters/tappets over time.

 

This may be off the wall, but you stated in your reply (#10 above) that the engine stalls at stop lights. You may have a weeping injector, after the engine warms up, which will cause the oil to thin out from the gas in it cuz of the leaking injector. Next time it stalls out pull the dip stick and smell the oil for traces of gas.

 

Ya might want to read the incredible oil/lubrication info on this website. http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/

 

For What It's Worth.

 

KEN

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Malykaii Newbie

Malykaii

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I second bitog. Wau more information than one will ever be able to handle.

 

I recomend Mobil 1 personally for synthetic. Very affordable and of decent quality. Pair with a napa gold aka wix filter for optimum results. The 10w40 or 15w50 flavors will suit your needs.

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TSIboostman Newbie

TSIboostman

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I am a firm believer that older Japan 4 cylinders run better on dino motor oil and in these cars that would be 10w 30 and what I run a 10w 40 which IMO provides a little better protection on run through but not so much on start up. The 30 weight does not coagulate as much as the 40 will when cold so your cold starts could be harsher but when warm the G54 truck motor loves the 40 weight stuff. Synthetic is great in modern cars where 0 or 5 is used for increased gas mileage but for a Starquest with a G54b turbo motor in it then I would run regular motor oil.
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Malykaii Newbie

Malykaii

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I agree with you..m The g54b is basiclly a 30 year old truck and forklift motor. I'm not recomending a group4 base stock or above synthetic like Mobil 1 because I feel that it will provide any aditional protection to the motor over conventional... its a matter of the turbo. Most people don't let the car optimally idle and cool down after driving. (Like I for one simply can't due to using the truck for work). True synthetics are more resistant to heat and coking the turbo. Plus when Mobil1 costs 35 and Castrol Gtx 25, kind of and easy choice for me.
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Starfighterpilot Newbie

Starfighterpilot

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I am a firm believer that older Japan 4 cylinders run better on dino motor oil and in these cars that would be 10w 30 and what I run a 10w 40 which IMO provides a little better protection on run through but not so much on start up. The 30 weight does not coagulate as much as the 40 will when cold so your cold starts could be harsher but when warm the G54 truck motor loves the 40 weight stuff. Synthetic is great in modern cars where 0 or 5 is used for increased gas mileage but for a Starquest with a G54b turbo motor in it then I would run regular motor oil.

 

I gotta disagree with " The 30 weight does not coagulate as much as the 40 will when cold so your cold starts could be harsher."

 

 

Multigrades were first developed some 50 years ago to avoid the old routine of using a thinner oil in winter and a thicker oil in summer.

 

In a 10w-40 for example the 10w bit (W = winter, not weight or watt or anything else for that matter) simply means that the oil must have a certain maximum viscosity/flow at low temperature. The lower the "W" number the better the oil's cold temperature/cold start performance.

 

The 40 in a 10w-40 simply means that the oil must fall within certain viscosity limits at 100°C. This is a fixed limit and all oils that end in 40 must achieve these limits. Once again the lower the number, the thinner the oil: a 30 oil is thinner than a 40 oil at 100°C etc.

 

So since 10W-30 and 10W-40 engine oils both have a weather viscosity of 10 they will flow and lubricate the same at 10 Degrees.

 

I have found that when the G54B T engines's oil pressure sender fails, it all of a sudden goes full max indicated oil pressure - no matter what weight oil you use or engine RPM you are at. Over the past 26 years I had 2 of 'em fail and that's what indicated oil pressure did.

 

If changing oil weights does not help indicated oil pressure, then I would suspect that the engine oil pump relief valve spring is getting tired and needs to be replaced.

 

Or, the engine oil cooler bypass valve has failed and is bypassing the engine oil cooler and causing the engine oil to get HOT. See FSM, page 9-52 to see where this temperature controlled valve is located. The engine coolant thermostat valve fails quite a bit in the Starquests so why can't this little known thermostatic valve fail also? Most SQC'ers don't know that this valve exists, cuz the FSM only shows it on 9-52, but has no narrative about it.

 

Mitsu PN is MD04 1092. The one in your engine now is 20 something years old and should be replaced for the continued good health of your engine. ;)

 

For What It's Worth.

 

KEN

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Starfighterpilot Newbie

Starfighterpilot

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OK fromji, it's been about a week since the last reply was posted. What was the root cause of your low oil pressure "problem?"

 

This will help out other SQC'rs with the same situation. ;)

 

For What It's Worth.

 

KEN

 

fromji - What have you found to be the root cause of your percieved oil pressure problem?

 

For What It's Worth.

 

KEN

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