I need some serious help!

[stevesquest]

Despite liking the looks of it I am starting to kick myself for having bought this car. I just got some brand new Continental

Ext. Cont. DWS put on and then I noticed that the tires are being gouged by something. Tires are stock size. Then I started getting a funny noise from the rear and I guessed it was the caliper. Car is an 1987 with 86k.

 

Took it in to get it looked at. They said new pads all around, new rear calipers and the rotors need turned (all).Said that part would cost me $900.

As far as the tires getting shredded on the sides he couldn't find the cause, but he thinks the car has settled and is guessing that the springs and struts need replaced. I can see where the inner black plastic of the wheel well and the front quarter panel aren't very tight and there is some rubber shreds hanging in there. The part of the quarter panel that was bent down I hammered back thinking that would solve it, but it just went back to the same shape. Mechanic also said that he couldn't find the coil spring/ struts for this car.

 

A. Has anyone had this problem with the fender shredding the shoulder of the tire or the car "settleing"?

B. I'm no mechanic but I am fairly handy. How much of this could I accomplish if I just "learn" how from the net?

C. I want the car back to original ride height and am hoping that stops the tire shredding, anyone know what I can do

to get coil spring/ strut set up for this car w/o spending too much? If I can get the parts how difficult would that part be to do?

 

Thanks for any help you can give me.

[LEPORE]

Steve, if you provide your location i am sure someone close could help you out.

[stevesquest]

Thanks, I adjusted my status. While you're here...any advice for me?

[Alsandr]

$900 for new brakes all around? You can do it much cheaper yourself, brakes aren't too bad.

 

As for your tire shredding, I'd suggest lifting the back up, spin the tires and see what rubs where it shouldn't.

[stevesquest]

As for your tire shredding, I'd suggest lifting the back up, spin the tires and see what rubs where it shouldn't.

 

 

The $900 was for rear brake calipers, machining all rotors and pads all around. I can see that front driver side is getting messed up. Mechanic said all wheel appear to be rubbing.

 

Thanks for your idea.

Edited November 19, 2010 by stevesquest

[Alsandr]

That still seems like a lot... Although that might be because I've done my brakes myself and done it with cheaper parts that work. I found rotors on Advance Auto for 10 bucks and pads were ~20 for both rear wheels. Calipers are the biggest problem, but still shouldn't cost enough to make the price jump to $900.

[pigpen]

That is alot for a brake job but there is a labor rate with a shop...rotors (new) run from 40-75 bucks each, pads(bendix) are about 55 an axle, and the calipers are 50 bucks each (reman))...all this amounts to is whether you want to tackle this yourself or want a shop to do the work...save yourself some cash...as for the tire shredding, jack it up, spin the wheels, look for anything out of the ordinary,, then remove the tires and look, you may see shiny metal or paint areas where the tire's been rubbing...

[mtaylor530]

I just priced rear brake calipers the other day at Advance Auto Parts, 63 a side!!! 900 is rediculous! the dealer could prob beat that price...

[vbrad511]

$100 in pads, $60 in turning, and about 2 hours (usually at most) and you can do your brakes yourself. You likely don't need new calipers, maybe one, maybe two, but you won't know it until you get the old ones off. You MAY need rotors if they're out of spec and can't be turned, but again, you won't know that until they're off and mic'd. I hate to suggest you jerry rig anything, and I don't know how lowering a SQ happens, but if you need to get it up a bit you can use these as a temp fix until you get the right springs for it...

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mr-Gasket-Twist-In-Coil-Spring-Booster-1283-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem564102447cQQitemZ370457855100QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

 

Who was your mechanic? Where'd you take the car?

[81zfan]

I am sure that someone on here has a pair of rear calipers they would be willing to part with from a parts car. Domt go out and be dumb and pay 3 times the amount for a job that you can do! If you can change oil in a car you can change brakes.

[ColdScrip]

Alright besides all the brake talk thats not your only issue here. All 4 tires are rubbing. Anyone here ever have experience with the springs "settling"? Honestly I think you may have picked up a car where the previous owner(s) cut the springs.

[Indiana]

Someone has screwed with that cars suspension. Rear calipers get seized up and as inexpensive as rotors are online why turn them unless they are going to media blast off the rust too. If you get the zinc coated ones they won't rust. It may have lowering springs on it and bad strut mounts in the front. If they were have put it on an alignment rack they should have been able to tell what was wrong so they must be guessing and trying to screw you. What was this, some place like Mineke ? That damn place will double or triple charge you on labor, charge you for taking off a strut then if they have to change the spring they charge you again for taking off the strut when its all laying in the floor. This is a car that if you own one, you should be able to work on it yourself. Rebuilt calipers for the rear aren't cheap but the fronts are. You might also replace the cables at the same time. What color are the springs and struts?

[stevesquest]

Alright besides all the brake talk thats not your only issue here. All 4 tires are rubbing. Anyone here ever have experience with the springs "settling"? Honestly I think you may have picked up a car where the previous owner(s) cut the springs.

 

 

Yes, thanks for getting to my tire rubbing issue, that is really the elephant on my back. So this sounds like an odd problem??? The car has done a lot of sitting as far as I can tell. Both previous owners just pulled it out when the weather was nice, has 86k if that tells you much. I also dont get the impression that it has been moded in any way. It did have 50 profile on the front and 45 on the back when I got it. Didnt drive it much with that setup, but I dont think I had rubbing. Shop said it was sitting about an inch an a half lower than factory.

 

My main question is if its not the springs, does anyone have any idea what could be causing this?

 

If it is the springs, where can I find replacement springs that will get me back to the factory ride height (without costing me too much)?

[stevesquest]

Someone has screwed with that cars suspension. Rear calipers get seized up and as inexpensive as rotors are online why turn them unless they are going to media blast off the rust too. If you get the zinc coated ones they won't rust. It may have lowering springs on it and bad strut mounts in the front. If they were have put it on an alignment rack they should have been able to tell what was wrong so they must be guessing and trying to screw you. What was this, some place like Mineke ? That damn place will double or triple charge you on labor, charge you for taking off a strut then if they have to change the spring they charge you again for taking off the strut when its all laying in the floor. This is a car that if you own one, you should be able to work on it yourself. Rebuilt calipers for the rear aren't cheap but the fronts are. You might also replace the cables at the same time. What color are the springs and struts?

 

I'm with you, looks like its worth it to get new rotors. Is Rockauto a decent place to order parts? Any other suggestions?

 

Had the car at a local shop, not a chain. They did the alignment and the car still pulled to the right. they thought it was the tires and after switching the fronts the car pulled to the left, so they said get some new tires and you should be good. Got the new tires and it still pulled right. I took it back with the new tires and they had it for like 2 days looking trying to figure out why it was pulling to the right and why the wheels were rubbing. Should I just try and replace the strut mounts?

[stevesquest]

$100 in pads, $60 in turning, and about 2 hours (usually at most) and you can do your brakes yourself. You likely don't need new calipers, maybe one, maybe two, but you won't know it until you get the old ones off. You MAY need rotors if they're out of spec and can't be turned, but again, you won't know that until they're off and mic'd. I hate to suggest you jerry rig anything, and I don't know how lowering a SQ happens, but if you need to get it up a bit you can use these as a temp fix until you get the right springs for it...

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mr-Gasket-Twist-In-Coil-Spring-Booster-1283-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem564102447cQQitemZ370457855100QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

 

Who was your mechanic? Where'd you take the car?

 

 

How do those things work exactly?

I live in west st =. louis county, took my car to a local shop, called Ballwin automotive ( i think thats the name).

[BlackBII]

Isn't there anyone around St Louis that can go check this guys car out?

 

I can't imagine it taking more then 10 min to figure out the tire rubbing problem.

 

As far as the brakes, if you buy all the parts, maybe $150 worth, I'm sure a member would be more than happy to come help you replace it all, for as a little as one case of beer.

 

Paying $900 for a brake job is like bending over and just asking to be sodomized.

[89PalermoSHP]

heres a shopping list for you. pads you can pick up at either store

 

http://www.starquestgarage.com/manuals/service/conquest/1988/88_conquest_service_nav.html is the online service manual and will help you through anything you cant get on your own. brakes and struts on these cars is very easy.

 

napa (i found they had the best remaned rear calipers)

 

CAL SE1401 $77.99 + 55.00core -right rear caliper

 

CAL SE1402 $77.99 + 55.00core -left rear caliper

 

autozone

 

C9288 $53.99 (X2) parking brake cables. repackaged OEM cables

 

31028 $23.99 (X2) rear rotor (front rotors arent listed at autozone or napa... scary)

 

ebay or the for sale section here

 

eibach or ST springs or coilovers if you choose

 

rear shp strut housings so you can use decent strut inserts

 

mitsubishiparts.net

 

MB175710 $58.06 (X2) front oem strut isolators

 

MB110929 $48.55 (X2) rear oem strut isolators

 

MB349347 $16.77 (X2) rear rubber bump stop

 

MB110930 $8.81 (X2) rear dust boot

 

MB109832 $8.81 (X2) front dust boot

 

MB430570 $11.23 (X2) front bump stops

 

 

all of this work can be done with a jack, jack stand, and common metric wrenches. you will need a spring compressor for the struts but you can borrow one from any auto parts store(i would try to get one that looks like whats pictured below and save tons of time)

 

http://www.harborfreight.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/370x/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/i/m/image_1058.jpg

Edited November 26, 2010 by 89PalermoSHP

[stevesquest]

heres a shopping list for you. pads you can pick up at either store

 

http://www.starquestgarage.com/manuals/service/conquest/1988/88_conquest_service_nav.html is the online service manual and will help you through anything you cant get on your own. brakes and struts on these cars is very easy.

 

napa (i found they had the best remaned rear calipers)

 

CAL SE1401 $77.99 + 55.00core -right rear caliper

 

CAL SE1402 $77.99 + 55.00core -left rear caliper

 

autozone

 

C9288 $53.99 (X2) parking brake cables. repackaged OEM cables

 

31028 $23.99 (X2) rear rotor (front rotors arent listed at autozone or napa... scary)

 

ebay or the for sale section here

 

eibach or ST springs or coilovers if you choose

 

rear shp strut housings so you can use decent strut inserts

 

mitsubishiparts.net

 

MB175710 $58.06 (X2) front oem strut isolators

 

MB110929 $48.55 (X2) rear oem strut isolators

 

MB349347 $16.77 (X2) rear rubber bump stop

 

MB110930 $8.81 (X2) rear dust boot

 

MB109832 $8.81 (X2) front dust boot

 

MB430570 $11.23 (X2) front bump stops

 

 

all of this work can be done with a jack, jack stand, and common metric wrenches. you will need a spring compressor for the struts but you can borrow one from any auto parts store(i would try to get one that looks like whats pictured below and save tons of time)

 

http://www.harborfreight.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/370x/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/i/m/image_1058.jpg

 

 

Hey 89 Palermo, thanks a ton for taking the time to list up all that s#%t!! I will look through it and then I might have to hit you up with more questions later.

 

Thanks again!

[89PalermoSHP]

not a problem. another good place to get stuff is rockauto.com. there is usually a 5% discount floating around here so it helps with covering some of the shipping. Edited November 27, 2010 by 89PalermoSHP

[Edde]

not a problem. another good place to get stuff is rockauto.com. there is usually always a 5% discount floating around here so it helps with covering some of the shipping.

 

 

Fixed Good luck with your car man. It's pretty tough to do this stuff when you're paying mechs all the way.

[importwarrior]

i just got all new fully loaded calipers fronts and

backs, rotors for front and back from rockauto.com

for under $300. that included caliper mounting brackets,

calipers, pads, the entire caliper including the mounting

brackets that mount the calipers to the car.

now use the 5% discount code on top of that.

 

also autozone had rear vented rotors for $9.99 each.

 

this site can help you for sure.

[stevesquest]

Thanks, I'll look into that.

Your right this site is worth its weight in gold! What a minute, do websites weigh anything....well you know what I mean.

[Edde]

How about this tire gouging? Is that still in question?

 

You may or may not actually need brakes, but safe tires you do.

[patra_is_here]

dude, go out to the car and write down the tire size. front should be 205/55/16 and rears should be 225/50/16 for stock size. I like running a little smaller than stock, but my car is pretty low.

 

maybe they switched front and rear sizes or switched front and rear rims??? you shouldn't be getting any rubbing or chunking unless your tires are tucked because the car has been lowered a lot.

 

this shop doesn't sound like they know anything about this sort of stuff. probably just a bunch of 'parts hangers'.

 

this is a bad car to own if you aren't going to fix it yourself.

Edited December 1, 2010 by patra_is_here

[stevesquest]

How about this tire gouging? Is that still in question?

 

You may or may not actually need brakes, but safe tires you do.

 

 

Yeah, the tire gouging is still my primary concern. All these questions have been leading up to replacing the front shocks, coils and mounts in hopes that it solves the problem.

 

Does feel like it could use some new pads.