flatty86 Posted January 31, 2013 Report Share Posted January 31, 2013 Hey guys, We after finding out that my transmission was trash. I decided to change everything to TSI parts. I'm in the process of getting a lighted flywheel and transmission and stage 2 clutch... I look on the forum for instructions how to remove the clutch bolts but I’m a bit confused...He said turn the flywheel counter clockwise to remove the bolts , however is that with me facing the engine or me facing the rear of the car.. I DO NOT want to mess up the timing in this car. P.S … Is there anything else I need to make all the TSI drivetrain work in my flatty? So far I have : TSI flywheel, TSI Transmission, TSI driveshaft, TSI stage 2 clutch and throw-out bearing. TSI pressure plate. Thanks for your input. By he way below is what I found in my transmission, must have been like this when i got the car, transmission was gridning once i got the engine running. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psu_Crash Posted January 31, 2013 Report Share Posted January 31, 2013 The pressure plate bolts should come loose with a quick snap of a ratchet. They aren't torqued super tight but may be loc-tite'd on there. A little heat releases that.Once you have the pressure plate off get a long piece of steel flat stock. a couple feet should do it. Then drill holes in the flat stock that line up with 2 of the pressure plate bolt holes in the flywheel. Bolt the flat stock to the FW using the PP bolts. Wedge that against something to hold the flywheel from turning while you take out the center flywheel to crank bolts. Use the same process to re-install the flywheel bolts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flatty86 Posted January 31, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 31, 2013 (edited) thanks for the reply PSU but wouldnt the engine try to turn while talking off the pressure plate bolts? Edited January 31, 2013 by flatty86 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flatty86 Posted January 31, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 31, 2013 ans how do i heat up the bolts?? propane torch? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scott87star Posted January 31, 2013 Report Share Posted January 31, 2013 Yuck, lost a bearing! That is trash. Up to 87 the clutch is 225 mm, 88-89 are 240 mm so keep that in mind. Bigger is better as far as torque holding power but its more important everything matches. I believe the flattys had a different throwout bearing as well although its designated intercooled and non-intercooled. Go hear, join if you have to: http://starquest.i-x.net/viewtopic.php?t=980&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=25. Plenty of pictures of the different stuff. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
19cturbo Posted January 31, 2013 Report Share Posted January 31, 2013 (edited) Tell you something ive done that has worked well for me, is take about a 12mm socket and wedge it on the alignment dowel on the block and one of the teeth on the flywheel.. works like a charm every time dont mind my crappy sketch, but you get the idea.. it works for loosening and tightening the bolts. just move the socket to the other side http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd23/19cturbo/1JZ%20SWAP/AD4429B2-7B6F-4CC1-86C0-EA2B37297507-3533-00000287068984B9.jpg Edited January 31, 2013 by 19cturbo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flatty86 Posted January 31, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 31, 2013 Thanks a lot for the replys guys!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flatty86 Posted January 31, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 31, 2013 (edited) @ 19 that technique was awesome..... Already have taken the pressure plate and clutch out..... now the flywheels turn... Edited January 31, 2013 by flatty86 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flatty86 Posted January 31, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 31, 2013 BTW i'm planning on intercooling my flatty in the future. so should I just go with all intercooed parts? My car is a 86 btw. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fuze Posted January 31, 2013 Report Share Posted January 31, 2013 http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd23/19cturbo/1JZ%20SWAP/AD4429B2-7B6F-4CC1-86C0-EA2B37297507-3533-00000287068984B9.jpg GENIUS! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
19cturbo Posted January 31, 2013 Report Share Posted January 31, 2013 @ 19 that technique was awesome..... Already have taken the pressure plate and clutch out..... not the flywheels turn... it really does work well.. ive done it several times now... someone showed me once and im just passing it along. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
natallica Posted January 31, 2013 Report Share Posted January 31, 2013 So "Flatty's" had a sawblade in them...interesting JK man, nice tip! -N8 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
19cturbo Posted January 31, 2013 Report Share Posted January 31, 2013 So "Flatty's" had a sawblade in them...interesting JK man, nice tip! -N8 hey, i said dont judge the crappy sketch! it was the idea behind it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flatty86 Posted January 31, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 31, 2013 Yes it work perfect man.... Was able to get the flywheel off as well.....but of course I have a new question....One of my friends said it wasn't good to put a light flywheel in boosted cars??Why not? and what would I expect from a lightened flywheel as far as performance? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TexasQuest Posted January 31, 2013 Report Share Posted January 31, 2013 I beg to differ. I've got a Fidanza aluminum on my car and love it. Runs nice and smooth. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
19cturbo Posted February 1, 2013 Report Share Posted February 1, 2013 From a lightened flywheel you will have faster revs, however you will also loose some revs between shifts.. A heavier flywheel will carry more momentum between shifts but will decrease your rev speed because its going to take more energy to spin the heavier flywheel.. with that being said, i loved my 15lb flywheel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Funky Phil Posted February 1, 2013 Report Share Posted February 1, 2013 just mind your tq specs and pattern when installing plate especially on an aluminum flywheel. They strip easily. Just had a fidanza timeserted. previous owner went hulk on them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flatty86 Posted February 3, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 3, 2013 i need flywheel bolts..stripped them a bit taking them off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Funky Phil Posted February 3, 2013 Report Share Posted February 3, 2013 enginemachineservice.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flatty86 Posted February 5, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 5, 2013 (edited) Ok guys... Finally got my used transmission out of a 87 TSI. The guy also want to sell me the aluminum flywheel,clutch and pressure plate for $200.00. I think that is a good deal considering its a stage 2 clutch and not hardly used... But i have a question... I noticed that the throwout bearing is larger than the one on my flatty... Can i use it since im using the same clutch set up that the donor car had???And also should I be changing the slave cylinder? My is no good, so I was wondering if I should go with a TSI slave Cylinder since im changing all my transmission parts to TSI... Thanks again for all your help guys. Edited February 5, 2013 by flatty86 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim_C. Posted February 6, 2013 Report Share Posted February 6, 2013 You can rebuild the slave which is a better bet. I've got two slaves used, and both needed rebuilt anyway. Especially the TSI slave that was paired with a stronger clutch. Highly overlooked is you really should rebuild the slave if going to a stronger clutch. Old slaves just lose the seal soon after being paired with the stronger clutch.The TO just needs to match the ball length on the trans. If I remember right, the ball that sticks out further, gets the shorter TO. The ball that is short gets the longer TO. Be sure to grab the slave rod as it is a different length too. That info isn't on the IX site last I knew. Only Indiana has that info. I made my own according to the very clear OEM info he has, and it worked great! Used '87 trans' are usually in the worst condition with 3rd gear always grindiing if you try to shift it faster. That is where a new or rebuilt slave cyl helps tremendously too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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