psu_Crash

Glad to hear you are still around and the SQ is going well! Not too much happening here anymore, but I'm doing great!

Injectors have been sent to Injector Rehab. I'll report back with their findings.

Hey Buddy! Sold the last one huh ... I didn't believe you when we met at Radwood all those years ago and you said you were getting out of it. Sounds like an epic trip. if i ever get over there I'll be sure to check it out.

Well, I thought I'd stop over and get this car running in no time. Nope. I measured injector signals with the o-scope and injector connected. Revealing some odd things on the first injector. Took a resistance measurement and it showed open. I thought, injector clips. Second injector gave a good scope reading, although I'm not sure what to think of the noise. Maybe feedback from the starter, maybe not. Scope Signal Either way at this point I'm sure the ECU and most wiring is ok. Meter on the injectors measured 2.7-2.8 ohms on both. After this I bypassed the clips al together using some alligator clips. Had him crank it while I watched in the throttle body. Nothing. Checked fuel flow and pressure as best I could without a gauge. Feed line definitely has pressure. At this point I decide it must be the injectors. Took his injectors back to my shop to test fire and back flow them. The connections were pretty corroded. They got cleaned up and the clips started to read correct resistance. Using the 9V battery trick, small tube on the injector, carb cleaner in it and 30psi air connected. No spray... no click from the injector either. $#@! Second injector acted the same way. Forward or reverse flow. I'm not sure how and I wouldn't believe it if I hadn't witnessed first hand. Both at the same time seems highly unlikely, but here we are. I recommended sending them for cleaning. I'm not sure if they can be saved or not. One way to find out

Not that it helps you any, I sent B-line a set of OEM lines a couple years back so they could make these. i also bought a set. Seems to be high quality lines. Just FYI

Gotcha. Apparently I missed that part

He forgot to mention it will run on spray. He has checked for cranking signal to the ECU also. I'm not far. One of these days I should just grab my electrical diagnostic supplies and go check it out. Having a scope on a few signals will tell me a lot. The fusible links were also cleaned/changed. After that it did fire on its own, very briefly. As if it was just a prime pulse burning off.

Sounds like you are good to go! At least for now 😉 Have some fun with it! Maybe the snow will hold off for a bit

You're very welcome, really glad to hear it helped!! I run a Walbro 255lph in the stock location and it is also loud at times. I attribute it to getting warm after hard runs. As long as it has pressure, I'll continue to run it. I'm sure the MKS in tank is a great setup. I don't know anyone personally that is running it, but I will probably go that route when mine dies. What does the AFR look like when it's acting up? If it still looks good under load I can't imagine it's the pump. Double check the vacuum line to the FPR. Maybe test it for vacuum/pressure leaks just to be sure. I run my idle speed a little closer to 1k. Mainly because I fear that my cam and semi solid engine mounts will rattle the car apart at lower RPM. Turn the idle stop in a hair to see if it helps. Does it stumble off idle when it's running poorly or will it rev free?

He used Steve and was sent the wrong part. Just to fill in this story 😉 Supposedly he is making it right though.

I don't think it really matters. Not like there is going to be an internal check valve in the cooler.

I'm not sure. I've never played with and auto. Check the FSM for a diagram here StarQuestGarage

Found it and it tests good under vacuum and pressure. Should clean up well. The rust on the bottom side isn't bad. I'll send the whole distributor. I don't have a use for it since going MPI and ditching this unit. Shoot me a PM with your shipping address.

I didn't make it out to the shop last night. I'll try to remember to take a look tonight. Yes, the FPR is boost referenced. I wouldn't cap off the FPR though. That could cause it to lean out bad and be a worse problem. Inatalling a mechanical fuel pressure gauge is the best way to tell if the pressure is increasing as it should. Run it temporarily and tape it to the hood for a quick check. The coolant temp sensor could be making it run rich too, thinking it is in warm up all the time. How do AFRs look when you slowly roll into it? Have you verified the timing? Boost leak shouldn't cause those issues, but I've seen stranger things. Still on coffee #1 for the day, so I'll think about it. I'm sure it's something simple, finding it is the fun part

That will happen. Well Mikie used to have them. Looks like he's out of stock now though https://mksmotorsport.com/product/vacuum-advance-oem-g54b/ I'll take a look around the shop. I may have one. If I find it and it tests good I'd send it for the price of shipping. That may not be THE problem, but you can at least move on from there.

@Alpina_BlueBack in the day this place was hopping! In the last 10 years it has really dropped off. The server issues didn't help anything. I joined SQC back in 98 and it's been a ride. BTW Beautiful ride! I have the same color combo in my 86. I have the original mats although I don't keep them in the car much anymore. Trying to keep them decent. Autozone specials in there most of the time lol Or I had them out for an auto-x and just didn't put them back in Good to see ya'll Holy late response, I know 😁

That sounds a lot like the vacuum advance on the distributor has gone bad. If you stay out of boost while driving will it still rev slowly? You can do a quick test to see if it holds vacuum. Stick a line on the vac advance and suck on it. Hold the vacuum with your tongue. Or if you have a mity vac, I suppose that would work too. If it bleeds off quickly that's definitely a problem.

I hope he made it runs as good as it looks!

And dangerous he was. I think of you often John 💙

It's kinda quiet around here these days. Just thought I'd thow out a HELLO to all of us that are still here. Old and new. Hope you are all having a great night in the shop with your StarQuest. I know I am 😊

You likely won't find a set that bolt directly with the correct offset without going with a 3 piece wheel. I run mustang cobra knock offs from american muscle with a 25mm spacer in the rear and 15mm in the front. 17x9 up front and 17x10.5 rear. This puts me at roughly 0 offset in the rear and +10 in the front if I remember correctly.

You are probably better off to finish the season with the current setup. The 16G SHOULD be a plug and play ... but we all know how that can go. The seperator sees vacuum from the accordian hose all the time to pull vapors/mist from the valve cover. Even with the stock setup draining to the pan, I would expect some kind of collection in the seperator. Might be just fine, just odd. Does your dipstick ever pop out? That's how I knew i needed to upgrade my valve cover vent and seperator. I was also running 25psi on a big ol Holset though, not 12psi on a 12A 😁

Any obstruction in that line to the seperator is definitely not helping you. Odd that it's not collecting anything still though. Have you checked the PCV while you're at it? Just put that 16G on there. It will be an entirely different car!

O boy ... she was not loved in your absense! There is/was a company selling a steering rack conversion, but I don't think they ever really delivered to to people who bought them. D2 suspension is still available as far as I know. That's the easiest suspension upgrade that will meet the task at this point. Swapping to a C5 setup sounds interesting! ... and a LOT of work

Hard to really tell in the vid, but that looks like oil smoke. It only takes a drop, so you might not lose enough to notice. I ran an EDIS system for a while and then used that trigger input for my standalone, then the modified dizzy for crank and cam signals. It's been a long road lol Time to go work on mine so I can get back to the track!!