Forklift

The PCV is only a couple weeks old, I picked it up from a local Mitsubishi dealership Since that oil separator line only sees air while in boost it makes sense to me that if it's clogged that blowby has nowhere to go under the valve cover until out of boost, and when out of boost the pcv kicks back in in vacuum, and sucks all that accumulated blowby into the intake tract. To your earlier point, it only takes a smidge of oil to smoke, so maybe this is it the culprit. I do have the separator plumbed correctly with the drain line to the pan, intake line to the accordion hose, and this line from the back valve cover. I want to throw the 16g on it so bad but don't want to add another variable, however I'm am just about at the point where another variable doesn't matter because it's all coming apart soon!

I took another look after your last reply and see my oil seperator can is pretty dry and shooting car cleaner in it, it's coming out clear. I see my boost gauge line has a little oil in the "sponge" as well. Additionally, i see my hose off the back of the valve cover to the metal oil seperator line is partially obstructed, not fully kinked but bent in a way that obviously air flow would be restricted. I'm going to pull that nipple off the back and thread a proper elbow on it, see if anything changes. If that doesn't work, I guess I'll have to pull the new 16g out of it's box and put it on (was saving for mpi) to see if I have a turbo seal failing on the 12a.

"High" is subjective of course, but 9ish psi on the ole 12a. Smoke appears black to me, and car uses absolutely zero oil. About 3 weeks ago I ran at autobahn and someone else caught my backfire and smoke on their video, around 8:40 you'll see fireball and then about 10s later you can see throttle off smoke. This is what started me down this rabbit trail. Yeah I'm so done dealing with a distributor, I saw some folks, at least in the past, went Ford EDIS. To your point, there's a lot more flexibility ditching it.

ok, here's the video as promised, this is with key ON

Yes correct, ground pin to volt meter to ground. I'll take a video tomorrow so you guys see that i've not taken crazy pills and see for yourself! I went to a track day today at Blackhawk Farms; car ran great but still seeing smoke on 4000-4500 rpm up shifts from 3rd gear into 4th. My AFRs are 10.5 to 11 all day long in high rpm boost, so while not optimal at least i'm running rich not lean in boost on factory injectors with 38lb base fuel pressure. In the middle of one of my sessions I got the 5 flash error code for TPS - I'm running factory TPS currently, and have a Mazda one from Tyrrell I believe but had some issues with it when I went to install it a year or so ago, so went back to factory unit. I guess my weekend project will be to pull it back out and give it another go. Maybe the smoke issue on hard upshifts is tps related. I can't wait to finally send Tim some money for a motocam ecu. If anyone has a lightly used crank pickup & mount and a quad 1GN1A coil valve cover mount, let me know!

I rechecked, on each clip, one pin is constant 12.4v, the other discharges from <6v down to 0v, with key on when grounding it. I'm no trained mechanic or electrician but from @mikec comment on the post below, he states that since the eci relay isn't held on if there's no ignition signal, so wouldn't the resistor start just discharging when grounding out the negative terminal of the injector clip to ground? Agree that the resistor doesn't limit voltage that was a mistake on my part Yes definitely does run better, i'm not seeing any smoke but still getting some gargling on throttle lift. I plan to convert to mpi over the winter, just need to make this hold up the next couple track days.

Earlier today i did a tps reset and while it was at .42v, getting it back up to .5v made zero difference. Thanks for linking the above thread, I saw that thread yesterday but missed the part about constant 12v at the injector connector So with key in on position, putting voltmeter + on one of the connector pins of the primary clip with the voltmeter - on negative battery terminal i'm at 12.4v, same goes for secondary clip. When putting voltmeter + on the other pin on the primary or secondary clip and voltmeter - on negative battery cable i get a slow and steady discharge from 5-6v down to 0, which makes sense since the voltage is discharging/getting used I think this confirms that the resistor is good as the resistor is supposed to split 12v down to 6v if i'm understanding correctly. If the above is correct I'm really thinking that the car is just really unhappy with these injectors/the impedance of them is just so far off from stock as everything up to them seems up to snuff. Lastly I believe my inference that my secondary was leaking is incorrect, as I've put the old ones back in, pulled the ovcp off, unplugged the injectors, and cranked it for 10s to build up fuel pressure, and there are no drips/leaking fuel visible through the throttle body. After all this I'm guessing my tps and idle screws were off enough to cause my throttle lift fuel dump/backfire issue. Running the car with the old injectors feels like it's running fine with less popping on deceleration. I'll have to have the wife stand by the side of a road and watch for any smoke on deceleration. Currently with my old injectors, my idle AFR is ~13, cruising in vacuum hunts for stoich, and boost is ~11ish.

I posted this in one of the facebook groups but thought I might have better luck here: Recently my car has been running rich when throttle off/deceleration, I figured out I had (another) a leaky secondary injector. I got a set of Southbay injectors, and when running the 650 as primary the car idles ultra lean 17-19 afr, and I can't adjust it out even throwing 50+psi at it with adjustable rising rate fpr. Car does run somewhat "normal" in vacuum with running the 950 secondary as the primary (11-12 afr idle, near stoich driving, but still leaning out randomly to <16 afr with very light throttle). So obviously I'm lean, but am getting plenty of fuel at the rail, leading me to believe my injector pulse is wrong or injectors aren't getting enough voltage. I've completed the following, one at a time, and had no change in behavior. replaced the injector clips checked the brown ECI fusible link, it's not fried or damaged and i shined up the pins and connectors I shined up the maf pins, no change, pulling the maf connector while idling kills the engine like it's supposed to swapped in a working 88 ECU I can't find any vacuum or air leaks. I obviously have spark and fuel, just not enough fuel (but plenty at the rail). FWIW i'm still running the plastic 87 igniter box After all this, the only thing I've found is that the primary injector clip is only getting 9.5v to very low 10v from the ballast resistor when cranking, which I believe is on the very low end of the spectrum. Is this the likely source of my problem? What else am I missing/do I need to check?

I'm mentally/principally having trouble pulling the trigger with MKS for $125 when 2 years ago they were $75 on the site and not too long before that they were $50 or less and somewhat available. I've checked and kept an eye out at the usual part stores but none have come available.

@Funky Phil - any spare injectors, turbos or aftermarket intercooler/hard pipes?

you didn't disturb the fusible link box right by the battery right? The green link handles headlights and taillights (assuming that also covers the popup motors).

Late to the party on this, but Steffan Peterson @ starquestclassicparts.com has helped me out a bunch; he currently has a 240 listed on his site: https://www.starquestclassicparts.com/product/240mm-flywheel

When you list on ebay it gives the option to have AI write the description, which this very much sounds like, agree car looks nice, could've done a lot better with more details.

I'd be interested in some of the exhaust if you were willing to ship and the price is right

Looks good, where's the next update?

I'll take a set, sending pm!

Bought a set of D2's from him, easy transaction, accurate description, thanks!. @scott87star

maybe I'm getting to old but the thought of getting into a black/black car on a 100 degree day doesn't sound great... imo they do look really look great in black as well as white (I'm biased!)

welcome, post some pics!

Not mine, looks pretty darn clean considering it's a midwest car. Who's car is this!?! https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1987-chrysler-conquest-5/

Little late, but if you're still looking I have a spare 225mm one from an 87 that I'm willing to part with.

sending a pm

ah you're right on the chain tension and oil pressure, forgot about that. I guess I need to accept the fact I need to pull the motor, have a look, and plan on doing a rebuild.

Well maybe (hopefully) my original post was premature. I pulled the valve cover off and am seeing what I believe to be excessive slack in the timing chain that without much effort slaps against the side of the timing cover. I'd imagine this is too much play and could be an explanation for the knocking sound. Here's a video of the knocking with windows down sitting in traffic: https://imgur.com/a/tgm9G5h Here's a video of the chain slack: https://imgur.com/a/i9D8s49

Hi Guys, relatively new Conquest owner, picked up a stock 87 with 106k back in October and have spent most of the winter and spring getting it back in shape after sitting for 15 years with a bad head gasket. I've made a lot of progress: completely new steering (including redhead box) and front suspension, new clutch, rebuilt the rear axles, new CIFIC head with stainless valves from Dad, new cam and head gasket, all new fuel pump/cleaned tank/filters, rebuilt throttle body, new hoses/lines/belts throughout, rebuilt the calipers, new brakes, new front bearings, etc etc etc. Basically I've been getting it ready to do a handful track days this summer. As of last week put about 100 miles on it, and was starting to hear some chattering and front engine rattle at idle; I tightened up the balance shaft tension which took away most of the noise, but thought i was still hearing a little bit of chatter under mild load (e.g. 5lbs of boost or less). I attributed it to noisy mechanical lifters (valve lash is .006 and .008 respectively), however took her out today and started hearing what I believe is some pretty loud rod knock at 1500-2000 under zero load. I pulled over, and saw the oil pressure gauge was right above the L peg. I killed the engine waited a bit, checked oil level (fine), and on 2nd or 3rd restart had middle gauge oil pressure again. I had replaced the sender about 2 months ago as the original was dead. Before I replaced it I hooked up a mechanical gauge and had 80psi on cold start, so never though I had an issue with oil pressure. The car even got a new OEM mitsubishi pickup o-ring when i previously dropped and baffled the pan. All that being said, while I'm hoping that i just have an immense amount of chain slop (and just need to pull front cover and replace it all), or somehow have a really loud rocker, and that the oil pressure drop on the gauge was a fluke, I'm a realist and think i need to rebuild the bottom end. I've already read Dad's rebuild advice thread a couple times, and I assume I can get away with just a short block rebuild since the head is brand new. That being said, does anyone have any recommendation for a trustworthy machine shop in the Northern Illinois/Northwest Indiana/Southern Wisconsin area with a good track record in this community?