Leaderboard

The Diagram file:///C:\Users\Jimmy\AppData\Local\Temp\msohtmlclip1\01\clip_image001.jpg The list of ports (22 in all) 1. Vacuum Retard Diaphram (directly on top of the distributor) 2. Top Port on the TB, right where the OVCP meets the TB 3. Secondary Air Cleaner Assembly (black box on the drivers side of the VC) 4. Thermo Valve (2 ports) 5. EGR (3 ports) 6. SACA Solenoids (5 ports) 7. Main Vacuum source (3 ports) 8. Bottom port, this feeds the vac storage, cruise, and runs to the vac pump in front 9. Vacuum Storage (not pictured), mounted to the side of the shock tower 10. Cruise Control (not pictured), mounted to the front of the shock tower 11. Vacuum pump (not pictured), mounted right beside the drivers headlight 12. Purge Control Valve (2 ports), directly under the aircan Now, depending on what you're wanting to do with your car, your position on the environment, and whether or not you need a smog test to get a state inspection, it's possible to remove some of the vacuum lines and clean up the engine bay a LOT. For a pure race car you'd probably just need 1 stock line (slightly relocated), that'd be a line running from the top of the TB (labeled #2), to the Vacuum Retard Diaphram (labeled #1), this is the only line that is an absolute necessity. However, if you want, for example, your inside head & foot vents to work properly, you'll need to keep the line running from the bottom of the TB (labeled #8 ) going to the Vacuum Storage canister (labeled #9) (+ the single, small vacuum line running from it's nearest "T" into the firewall [not pictured or labeled]). Since this comes up frequently I'll address it here, the vac port you use for a BOV is labeled Main Vacuum Source (#7), you'll use the one closest to the firewall if you're looking at it from the drivers side fender. If you need a smog test to pass a state inspection you'll probably need to keep everything, each vacuum assisted item has its place. If you've removed the catalytic converters you won't be needing the Secondary Air Cleaner Assembly (labeled #3), it supplies fresh air to the catalysts.

I keep obsessing over nit-picky little details, but aside from some fuel lines, this thing is just about ready to get put in place. The PCV is overly complicated. Whether or not it’ll actually make a difference, there are two separate systems,…. One for boost, and one for vacuum. When the engine is in boost, a 12v valve will open and let any excess crankcase blow by out through a -10 at the back of the valve cover that is routed to the big puke tank up front. During normal operation, the 12v valve is closed and a second pcv valve will allow air to move through the crankcase into the intake plenum after it get passed through an oil separator mounted on the opposite side. It sounds logical to me, we’ll see how it works. Im especially proud of my home made LS coil pack mount that will hang where the P.S. pump used to be. I didn’t want them on the valve cover, and this was the only place to put the things.

IDK how many amps the factory alternator is rated at, but I’m confident that it’s not 140. Having had this Ford alternator sitting around prompted me to make it work on my banger. Actually fairly easy to do, I had to fab a couple of pieces of straight bar, to reinforce the mount, fab up a “ Mike-o-matic” belt tensioner, and drill out some small holes bigger. The alternator is actually mounted upside down, but I don’t think it’ll mind. The tensioner is made out of a piece of 1/2” od/almost 3/8” I’d mild steel tubing. I simply tapped the inside of the tube with 3/8” rh/lh taps, and screwed in some chinee rod ends ( that came in a kit for the remarkably low price of 16.99). I “gutted” two spare idler wheels by pressing out the bearings. What you see is that bearing serving to apply the required pressure to tension the belt. I gotta tell ya, I’m pretty happy with the end result. A keen eye will notice a 36-1 trigger wheel, and the slotted bracket where the crank sensor will mount. I used another gutted idler pulley bearing to give the belt the needed clearance to pass by the mount post. So,…. In closing, if you’re like me and believe that the engineers who originally built these overly electrically complicated cars had the sense to apply the k.i.s.s. Method to their designs, they’d have come to me first, and I’d have told them to use a one wire 140 amp ford alternator mounted upside down.🙃 This step brings me damn close to installing the engine back into the bay. Tomorrow I’ll deal with the down pipe, and get the waste gate tied into the down pipe. Once I get that PITA step out of the way, I’ll hoist that heavy MF transmission up on an angle to drain the fluid, and get it up on a work stand so I can remove the VB so as to add a couple of 1/4” spacers Inca couple of valve passages as per Scott’s recommendation, add the PTC modified converter to the combo, and put that complain in.

The info is here, just no pictures to help. I’m at the stage where I’m now putting the front of the engine on. I purchased the bsek from dads, but the instructions are vague w/regard to how to properly install the entire kit. I have the guides where they go, and the pump modified, and bolted on, can somebody refer me to an actual thread or video that shows detailed pics so I can put this thing together correctly? Thanks as always.

I think I’ve succeeded

Welcome! My advice would be to get it running on the stock engine. Then clean it up and take care of all the maintenance it needs. Doing a swap is not for the faint of heart. It will take 4 times longer than you think and cost 3x as much, at least. Saying you are "new to cars" and then following it up with swap plans is likely to end up a disaster and/or never get finished.

Evening everyone, I'm a returning member from back around 05-06. I had a VG flatsider that was towed away by an HOA when I was deployed. Anyway, I'm back and looking for another flatty and catching up with things.

The Sun has pretty much had its way with mine. Although nothing is coming apart, the car was parked outside where the sun dried the leather out pretty severely. I have since “invested” in several leather dye/restoration products when/if I decide to try and save them. The bumps are the main reason for not wanting to keep them, but if I can satisfactorily repair that eyesore enough to make it acceptable, maybe I’ll keep them instead. Now that I have a set of instructions though, I will be attempting that repair, and I’d be happy to add the pics and detail the process. ( I’d be more happy if there was actually anybody here besides the few that contribute). Unlike the OP, I am comfortable in my own skin not to have a problem going into a craft store to get the required stuff. 😏

You need to retain your fuel vapor purge valve functionality unless you are removing that purge valve completely and letting it always vent to atmosphere (I wouldn't recommend). The thermo valve is also used for purge valve functionality but it can be removed without any real issues....it just keeps the purge valve closed until the engine warms up. So, you need the two lines running across the front of the engine to the purge valve under the air can (one black, one blue stripe). You need the black line to the dissy vac advance. You need the lower line on the intake running to the cruise control system and interior HVAC. And that is about it. Oh, and the line from the fuel pressure regulator to the injection mixer body....but I don't believe this is on the vac diagram. And if you have an 88/89, there are a few lines for the wastegate...which typically were removed many years ago by former owners. Open up the vac diagram in the FSM (Page 25-3, or 25-14 or 14-3) and, using this information, it is pretty easy to determine what can be simplified. Port D on the TB will have a black line going to a T (one leg to the dissy vac advance, other to the purge valve top port). Port A of the injector mixer will go to the side port on the purge valve. If you want to retain the thermo valve (meaning your plastic ports are not cracked on it), then leave it in (it taps into the same black and blue stripe lines, as seen in the diagram). Just make sure all open lines and ports are capped...especially Ports E and M on the TB (Port M is the perfect spot for an aftermarket boost gauge. Page 14-31 gives the port nipple locations on the injection mixer/TB. The FSM does a good job explaining the functionality of each component as well.

welcome back thanks for your service. starquestparts.net has a really nice technica flatty

Welcome back! They always come back lol. I can't imagine life without a Quest. Dad

The only vacuum line you need to have the car running is the one to the distributor. All the others are "extra". Though, you'll want to keep the one by itself on the bottom going to the cabin if you want your vents to actuate. It all depends on what you want to keep.

Turbo cars have all the back pressure they will ever need and then some between the head exit and turbine input. For maximum power, the shortest fattest exhaust is needed. So 3” is fine. The benefit of 2.5” is simply for geometry reasons and cost. neither size will do anything about noise level though. That’s in your muffler. You can add a silencer where the cat was, if your cat has been removed. I use a vibrant silencer and it works well. On turbo cars, you want straight through mufflers that don’t impede the flow and create back pressure. These result in being louder. in all, get the biggest straight flow muffler you can and add a high flow silencer/resonator. Also, extending the exhaust tip past the rear bumper greatly reduces drone.

the hks exhaust is very quiet

Hello Fox, Welcome! I bet Steve can hook you up with the cluster plastic. If for some reason he can't, someone here can, I'm sure. The FAQ here has the TPS reset procedure as well as other items you should read through.

To test the TPS you need an analog volt meter. Digital ones (even expensive) don't have a high enough sampling rate to see the small discontinuities in the sweep.

Seems it's back. l'll keep it mirrored anyway. Doesn't really cost much

starquestgarage.com works for me. Maybe try clearing your cache? Jimmy

When you google vacuum modulator for LN471b trans, they come up. As a replacement part for a Mazda. It’s a vacuum modulator that looks exactly like the one I have only w/o the L shaped vacuum hose seized up inside it. It’ll be here Friday. I’ll do the VB mods as per Scott’s instructions, and put that part back together. I want to get the engine and that heavy pig of a transmission bolted together and reinstalled in the car. I tell ya, I have messed w/quite a few auto trans before, w/a GM 4L80 being the heaviest, but this Mitsubishi trans is way heavier than that. Given that a GM 4l60 has a 3.06 first gear, versus the 2.42 first gear in the mitsu, all while probably being 100 lbs lighter has me seriously considering trying to adapt one to the engine at some point in the future.

I have GCs, I like them...are they D2s...no, but they do the job. The GCs are similar to the cheaper coilovers like cosmo but I was able to select my spring rate ( I went pretty soft...softer than what everyone recommended, and I still feel the ride is harsh at times) and they are true eibach springs. Still need the stupid rubber bands in between the collar and strut. Also need to cut the perches to take advantage of the range. But they don't clank on bumps or anything like that. I did upgrade the front tops with spherical bearings when turning. Only photo I could find quickly. The collars aren't that high now, they are almost all the way down to that perch.

Mookeeh (MK1), Cosmo, ST were all options at one time. I really don't know if any of those are still around. I will try to remember to look in the garage tonight. I might have a set of lowering springs still. Not sure if I tossed them in the move a few years back or not. There is definitely info here about the Eibach spring rates. I forgot to mention, please don't cut a coil. Does it work? Sure. Is it really safe? No

Guess it's down again

Electrical Manual http://www.starquestgarage.com/manuals/service/conquest/1988/88_conquest_service_manual_-_group_26_-_electrical.pdf

That's why I downloaded the manuals years ago. Just in case

http://www.starquestgarage.com/manuals/service/service_manual_index.html works for me

Thanks Kev. I figured that the mechanism is a grease it and let it eat kinda thing. I addded roller bearings to the underside from an old strut mount kit that I had laying around. On top, I just “lubrilated” the nut contact surface and tightened it finger tight. still doesn’t make any sense to me that this is how they did this. 11th hour, last minute. How are we gonna fix this kinda crap.

The round ring gets pressed into the front upper balance shaft hole. it blocks off the oil passage down to the main bearing, you can use a bushing installer or flat plate just slam it in there flush, I always added some retaining compound because we had it there Just be sure it goes in straight and tight, You are now done with the upper shaft area, Take the stub shaft and slide it into the oil pump in place of the lower shaft, where the flats are clamp it into a vice ( be sure to leave clearance between back of oil pump and top of vice so the gasket surface doesn't get scratched, clean oil from threads and install the one bolt with some blue thread locker and torque it ( I think 45 lbs, whatever factory is for the bolt to balance shaft) Install your oil pump to block, take chain and both gears together and slide them into place, If I recall teeth on the small gear are to be closer to oil pump- don't pay attention to timing marks sonce there are no balance shafts, you can dummy them up to check alignment of the big and small gear, that's important. Once you figure direction install the woodruff key in oil pump, slide gears and chain together on crank and oil pump- BE SURE KEY DOES NOT FALL OUT! Next put a box end wrench on the other bolt, be sure no oil in oil pump threads, again blue threadlock on threads, deep well 6 point socket and tourque the bolt ( The box end wrench will spin up against your socket so you can torque it - I think a picture of that is on my facebook page. Hope this helps, Dad

Found this one...from one of my older cqs. This is what happens when you don't keep them cleaned and greased. They seize up and the whole post starts turning in the cowl. But you can see the clip on the top there..just under the taperd spline.

That bit of extra tire is good insurance against curb rash on your wheels. I've never heard of someone wanting to go more narrow with the tires.

It's been 2 years since we closed our shop. Many people continued to ask me about parts so Diane and I started Dads Engine Parts LLC we went online today. link below. Dad Dads Engine Parts Llc.

All photo links repaired in this thread, let me know if you see a missed link or incorrect picture.

Last sanding step...3000 grit. Some people never go this fine in grit but I swear by it! I rather take the time in sanding the unit to an almost shine rather than buffing it. Get it as smooth as possible with the sand paper and the buffing process will only take seconds. After this final grit, clean up your part really good with soap and water. Here it is after 3000 grit....you can see the shine from sanding alone! No polishing products, no buffing.....this result is from sanding! Finally it is time to buff. You could use a ton of products for buffing...I simply bought a small bottle of turtle wax headlight buffing compound: Now, using a polisher with a WOOL pad. I buffed the light with the above compound. You could use a drill for this step if you don't have a polisher or buffer...but it is good to know what rpm you are spinning the pad at. For plastics, I use 1500 rpm! Faster will heat up the plastic and melt it....slower will do nothing! There is a fine line between not polishing anything and overheating during the polishing process. Polishing is just that...heating up the part and basically molding out the scratches. This is the reason why I spend more time sanding than polishing. It is easier to screw up polishing than sanding in my opinion. Anyways....polish with the wool pad. Only took about a minute. Goal...rid the part of the sanding scratches.....the wool pad will cause it's own scratches as well but you can see which are from the wool vs the sanding based on the orientation of the scratch. The wet-sanding scratches are straight, the wool scratches are spiral. Clean and wipe off again with the micro-fiber rag: Next, switch to a foam pad...same compound: Don't forget to polish the black plastic trim while you are doing the clear lens. Result of the polishing process...WOW!!