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Hello all...It's been a long time since I've been here. I apologize for my absence, but life took a turn and I had to focus on other things. I've had several texts, calls, and emails over the years. It's been great to hear from some of you. We just bought our first house, and while going through boxes and such, came upon one of the calendars I did for the club. A lot of good memories came rushing back, so decided to log on and see what's what. I hope the SQ community is still going strong. Give a shout and say hi. Cheers, Nick

Some time ago I was trying to grab the VSS Signal from the read switch to input into my ECU. Someone else was also trying to do the same. I think that post was lost during the great outage. Anyways... after many electronics projects and owning a volt meter (and properly know how to read circuit diagrams) I finally figured it out. The VSS Signal comes from a reed switch. That reed switch only switches a ground signal. You can grab the signal from one of the connectors, but I wanted to do non-destructive. I grabbed a ring terminal and attached it under the screw directly to the right of the speedometer. You want to use the lower of the two screws. I'm going to call it VSS-Out This is a floating ground. So to use the signal, you need to add a pull up to 12v (for most applications, 5v for others). This gives you a high signal (+12v or +5v) as the normal state and a low signal (ground) when the switch activates. There are 4 pulses per revolution, resulting in a square wave (⎍⎍⎍) . This should work for just about any ECU unless the ecu is expecting an AC Sine wave or VR Signal. You will need to attach a diode inline from VSS-Out if you are expecting the intermittent wipers to still work, abs, or the cruise control. The line on the diode should point towards the cluster. Attach a wire to the opposite side of the diode with a 10k resistor and connect the other leg of the resistor to 12v. Then from the side of the resistor opposite 12v you can attach the wire to the ECU. I attached a basic diagram

At the end of last season my OEM rad starting leaking. I took it to a shop to have it looked at, but they wanted crazy money to fix it. So, I'm eventually going to attempt to fix it myself, but for now I needed to get the car back up and running so I can get the car moved and get a different project in there. Anyway, I ordered up the CXRacing Radiator since it's about the only left you can get. I've heard and read on here often about "fitment issues". I wanted to share my experiences and feedback here. Showed up boxed really well. It's a nice quality pc, gives a good impression out of the box. I decided while I had it all apart to clean up the fans. So I took them apart. I cleaned all the bugs and road rash with Simple Green and then scrubbed them down with some 3M pads. Then I pained them white with some plastic adhesion spray paint. Reinstalled them. Still have some Natallica repro stickers left over from my restoration - so I figured it was time to bust these out too. Remounted them in the OEM locations. When I went to mount the fans I ran into some of my first issues. Each fan has 4 mount points, on each fan, only 2 of them matched up, the other 2 needed slight adjustment. Not bad, but just off by about a mm or two. I used a Dremel with a metal grinding bit to enlarge the radiator holes out a bit. After adjusting a few holes I got everything mounted up alright. Then I ran into the next issue. When I test fit it in the car, I had a vary similar issue withe mount tabs from CXRacing. I had to enlarge them just slightly to get the holes to line up there too. In this pic I had to enlarge the right hole a bit. Finally able to get it installed and mounted up. Fitment is definitely that as others have said. Here's a pic of the distance between the fan blade and the water pump pulley. There's about an 1/8 inch clearance. Here it is from the front. All back together. I did have a little trouble with the OVCP, but after some "persuading", I got things to line up. So, overall, a pretty easy install. Not 100% plug and play. But, if you have any capabilities at all, it shouldn't be bad to overcome any fitment issues you might run into.

2025 Starion and Conquest meet July 25-27 in Pigeon Forge, TN NO STARION OR CONQUEST REQUIRED TO ATTEND. Hosted at the Econo Lodge Pigeon Forge Riverside. Hotel link with the best price is in the comments. You don't have to stay at the host hotel. You can stay at any of the hundreds of hotels, motels, or vacation rentals in the area, but the gatherings will be at this Econo Lodge. This is the oldest, longest running annual Starion and Conquest meet in the USA--and likely longest running SQ meet the world! Since 1999, StarQuest enthusiasts have flocked to Pigeon Forge, TN every July for this meet. These people come to show off their cars and to see cars like theirs in the wild (rather than their modern habitat in garages and/or on jackstands) They also come to take in the numerous family friendly local attractions in the area effectively making the trip a mini vacation for the whole family. This meet was once mighty and hosted 50+ Starions and Conquests as well as 100+ people but attendance has dwindled over the years as the cars have gotten older and less reliable. Also, the decline in visitation of the "Meet Planner" section here at starquestclub.com in favor of Facebook has made it harder to advertise this meet with any consistency. We have not publicly advertised the meet in several years. Those who know, just show up. This year we decided to advertise it and will try to keep it bumped up on the Facebook groups and on starquestclub.com to see if we can regrow the meet rather than let it fade away. We didn't come this far--to only come this far! In recent years we have had as many as 10 SQ's and as few as 3 SQ's. There is a core group of about 20 us that make it every year with or without a StarQuest. This meet has elevated to more of a StarQuest family reunion with a few SQs rather than being solely about the cars. The cars brought us together, but the friendships became the focus. Every year we have new and old faces. As stated boldly above, you don't have to bring a Starion or Conquest to attend. If you have a SQ that you can push, pull, or drag, we would love to see it! If driving or towing your SQ just isn't in the cards, just come hang out with us and BS about our shared interest in these cars or anything else that comes to mind. Our group is friendly and made up of a perfect balance of young/old and introverts/extroverts to keep it fun and exciting! There are usually cruises to the infamous “Tail of the Dragon” which is an 11 mile stretch with 318 curves as well as what we like to call “Area 32” which is just as curvy as the Dragon. Drive it in your SQ or daily driver. They are a great experience no matter what car you drive! Since this is as much of a people meet as it is a car meet, you will find the most fun occurs in the evenings when we all come back together after the group dinner/s to hang out until the wee hours talking and enjoying some adult beverages. If you are not careful, you will walk away with lifelong friends! If we see growth this year, we may bring back the car show, door prizes, etc. for PF26. If you have read this far, that means you must have some curiosity or interest in joining us this year! If you have any questions, comments, or concerns, drop them in the comments of one of these posts in any of the groups they are posted in. There are multiple live threads about this meet running on the Starion and Conquest groups on Facebook as well. Let's rekindle this meet to keep it alive for current and future enthusiasts!

Looking forward to seeing everyone there. My reservations are from Thursday til Sunday, 7/24-7/27 at Econo Lodge PF Riverside. Jimmy

Hotel in Pigeon Forge, TN | Econo Lodge® Official Site | Econo Lodge Pigeon Forge Riverside

Don't see these very often. No Reserve: 37k-Mile 1985 Plymouth Conquest 5-Speed for sale on BaT Auctions - ending February 25 (Lot #181,635) | Bring a Trailer

Sold for $15,000 👌

think staquestparts.net has one and i also think boosted diamonds makes one now too

Size 24 is the goto for me, that with the biggest CCA i could get. I want to say mine are 800 CA or so. Diehard silver from Advance auto has been doing me well.

I have a home made unit that I like to use, but a mityvac will do the job too. If you are careful. The reservoir that comes with those is not real large and if you accidentally suck brake fluid into the vac pump it usually dies pretty quickly.