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Thought I'd post about this. Recently I had a shop try to do an alignment on my quest. Unfortunately, in an effort to fix the toe in the back, the monkeys ended up forcing the bolt over the edges of the rear subframe, bending the hell out of the cam bolt. They bent/ground it so bad I couldn't save it with a hammer. To replace it, I tried calling Mitsu dealers and even hitting up Amayama; no dice. At this point, I decided to get creative to see if I could find something off of another car that could fit. Lo and behold, I did find something. Another vintage Mitsubishi, you may ask? Perhaps some obscure 90's Hyundai whose parts availability is also on borrowed time? Nope, a current generation (specifically 2020) Toyota Rav4 AWD. "Toe adjustment cam sub-assembly" part number 48409-06010: "Camber adjustment cam" part number 48198-07010: Now obviously the little line marks on the cams don't match up to the originals, but anyone performing an alignment in the new millennia is using an alignment rack that spits out fancy numbers in real time, so they aren't needed anyway. For the record, the reason I chose the Rav4 AWD is because one of my coworkers had one I could match up the bolt to. If the bolt is actually different on the non-AWD models, I'm sure it'll fit fine as well.

I recently rebuilt my drivers side rear brake, so I decided to film myself doing it. This is meant to work hand-in-hand with the write-ups kev and obsolete did (I reference their write-ups in the video actually). So hopefully between the write-ups and video they should help anyone venturing to do this ... particularly the e-brake process. It's roughly 1/2 hour in total, but you can certain slide to whatever parts you may want to see. Here's the link to my video on YouTube: Starion Conquest Rear Brake Rebuild

Like I said, I'm looking to make a HKS themed car, so I'm not interested in any of the Greddy items. Hopefully someone else will see this thread and want them! Thanks for posting anyways, if you ever feel like selling those hardpipes, let me know.

I've got the HKS intake plumbing and bypass valve, but not really looking to get rid of it at the moment. I do have period correct Greddy/Trust parts that I don't mind getting rid of I have: Greddy Profec-A (fuzzy logic) boost controller, all wiring, sensors, manual Greddy Rebic III auxillary fuel controller with wiring, manual Greddy fuel injectors, bosses welded into an over valve cover pipe Greddy Rebic III simulator with connector cable to connect to rebic III, manual Greddy Turbo Timer The Greddy parts were pulled from my car, working when I moved to MPFI with AEM

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I spent a little time researching this and it just didn’t make sense for me. A ton of money for 250hp and maybe 50 mile distance. I was looking into the drop in power pack units. Not ready to DIY a concept that I don’t believe in.

Grabbed a set. Thanks for the link.

I'll hit Ryddler up and see if this can be done. Jimmy

ASL? 😁

PM sent

hey guys.. its been a while for me.. had a TSI back in 98-2002.. ended up selling the car and regret it big time..recently bought a decent 89 TSI and will be getting it back to road worthiness... car wasn't running... figured out this weekend that the fuel pump was not working.. I plan on upgrading to the Bosch 044... MY QUESTION is this.. since I have the tank down I thought it'd be a good idea to tackle the differential cover leak..and change the gear oil too... not sure if I can get a gasket for that cover? should I make my own? or just use silicone?.. any advice is greatly appreciated!!..

https://www.enginemachineservice.com/ems/parts/conquest/drivetrain.php He sells reproduction differential gaskets..

Welcome back .. just returned to the forums and groups myself . kind of went radio silent mid 2000's. As far as the diff I would think a standard good cleaning and some silicone should handle it but i'll b watching or those whom have actually tackled it to pipe in. Check with MKS, Dads, Motocam 360 and or other vendors down in the list maybe one of them has a gasket .

Another Cars and Coffee this morning. There were 3 of us there today.

First official outing in the Conquest. Took it to a local Cars And Coffee 35min away.

(scroll down for video) Well my build thread doesn’t exist anymore… I’ll just do a timeline If anyone remembers… May2009–bought car not running Nov2015–finally running rebuilt w/ 16G May2017–dyno’d 265whp w/ 16G MS2 ECU June2017–blew HG at drag strip July2017-July2020-rebuilt engine, went MPI, struggled with tuning..quit July2020–decided 1JZ/R154 swap Mar2022–took roller to TRA in Ohio Jan2023–car is complete and ready for pickup. Team Rocket Auto in Hamilton did the full engine swap for me. I took them the roller and all parts. Results: 617whp @ 26psi 750whp @ 35psi

There’s no limit to what I’ll pay for convenience and promptness 😁

Information provided by: techboy Your car is about 30 years old now and most likely has had a handful of owners. If you're anything like me, you have very little history to go on, esp. as it relates to basic maintenance. So, if you haven't, maybe it's time to change the fluid in your rear diff. If you changed your own oil before, it's not too much harder than that, just a little bit more difficult b/c you don't have an easy access fill in your trunk like you would your engine oil in the engine bay. Let's get started: First, if you don't have access to a lift you need to jack up the rear of your car nice and high. It's going to probably end up being a bit of a messy (and smelly) job, so you might want to throw down some cardboard if you have any, esp. if you care at all about your garage floor. My metrics only go up to a 22mm and that wasn't big enough, so I had find a standard that fit the drain and fill plug. A 15/16 seemed to be the perfect fit. Now let's find the drain and fill. The drain is smack right on the bottom of the diff here: The fill is up a bit further on the drivers side of the car here: file:///C:/Users/Jimmy/Desktop/Way%20Back%20Machine/v2/800x600q90/922/GqKi8R.jpg Because I was curious about whether or not my diff was even filled to proper level, I decided to crack the fill plug first. To my surprise, it actually was as I got a little bit of seepage once I cracked the bolt. Now that I knew that, it was time to throw a pan under and drain the old fluid. While the fluid was draining I thought it was a good time to clean up the two plugs a bit. The one with the magnet on the left is your drain plug and will probably have some heavy gunk on the magnet, you can go ahead and clean that up. The one on the right is the fill plug. I ran both of the them on the wire wheel to clean them up. Be careful of the copper crush washers found on both of the plugs. I cleaned both the washers up real good with some brake clean. If you have a store of copper washers laying around and have some that fit, using new ones probably isn't a bad idea. I didn't realize they were copper until I had the plugs out and didn't have the time luxury to buy new ones, so I reused the originals. Don't try that will coolant lines or fuel though, usually doesn't work. Once all the fluid has drained out you can put your drain plug back in with your 15/16th and get ready to go back the other way. First thing I did was find one of the smaller funnels I had and rigged up about a 6 inch feed tube with some extra hose I had laying around in the garage. I also cut myself a small piece of a wire tie .. more on that in a minute. There's not a ton of room under the car to refill your diff easily, but it can be done. I wedged my funnel up under the car like so, and used the wire tie to hold the funnel to the brake line right near the rear splitter. Here's another look at it from a slightly different angle, looking a bit more toward the drivers side rear tire. You can see there's a pretty good amount of room in the area in the red to get your hand up in there an pour. If I were to do it again, I might try taking the drivers side rear tire off and use a longer hose on my funnel ... might be easier ... not sure. At this point I stole a small plastic container from the kitchen, about the size of a baby food jar to use to pour the fluid into the funnel since I determined there was no way I was gonna get a whole diff fluid bottle in there. I'm not gonna discuss in this thread what oil to use, what's good, and what's not. If you're looking at this I'm assuming you've already done that homework and probably have already purchased whatever it is you're using. If not, there's lots of good threads you can read up using the search button. The FSM calls for a 80W-90, I can tell you that much. Depending on what threads you read and what oil you choose to go with, you might need/want to purchase an LSD additive as well. Almost done. It took me a little bit, but I just kept filling the little cup and pouring it in slowly. You need about 1.3 quarts so you won't quite use 1/2 the 2nd bottle. Just keep filling till it starts coming out the fill hole. Put your fill plug back in and tighten it down snug. You can also sneak one last look at your drain plug too while you're under there. Make sure you don't see any weeping now that you've got fluid back in the diff, esp if you reused the copper crush washer. One last thing, I took a can of brake cleaner and sprayed the whole diff down and cleaned it up real good so I could keep an eye out for any future weeping or leaks. If all goes well, it should look something like this when your done. Clean up, put your car back down on the ground and go for a test drive.

Hate to see these stories. Wishing you the best in your future endeavors! Maybe now you'll have a bit of time to work on your own quest? Or if you get bored, come on down. I have plenty of work to do on mine!

This may have been posted before but I couldn't find it. If it was it wouldn't hurt to bring it up again. Some really interesting STUFF!! I found this very through description of various Mitsu and Greddy turbo’s on the below DSM website. It even talks about using different cartridges, exhaust/ compressor housings/wheels, etc, etc…….. Plus it roughly gives what you can expect from each. It even talks about Starquests!!! http://www.houston-dsm.org/forums/showthread.php?t=79 Here is what it has. Mitsu turbos: Mitsubishi uses TD04, TD05, TD06, TD07, TD08...to designates turbo housing. For example, TD05H-16G 7cm^2 is a turbo with, TD05 turbine housing with 'H' style turbine wheel. There are S, SH, H... style of turbine wheel/housing. 16G compressor wheel. 16 is the size of the wheel, 1.83 inducer, 2.37 exducer. There is no direct correlation between MHI designation and actual physical size of the compressor wheel. G is the style of wheel (uneven height of blades). C, B, T style wheel's blades have the same height. Blades are equally spaced, but the number and pitch of the blades vary between models. 8cm^2 is referring to exhaust discharge area in the turbine housing. More specifically, it is the smallest cross-sectional area of the scroll, turbine housing. Very similar to Garrett turbo's A/R. The smaller number means faster spool-up but more back pressure at higher rpm. Bigger number means longer spool up but less back pressure, thus more top end power. Greddy modifies Mitsu turbos. I don't have any published specs for Greddy turbos and i have not taken any time to measure them. It's possible some of turbo’s have different specs from Mitsubishi. Also, both Greddy TD05 and TD06 use 3 bolt turbine flange where as Mitsubishi's uses 4 bolt flanges. Besides the TD04, TD05, TD06, TD07 and TD08 turbos, Greddy also makes hybrid turbo, T67 is TD07 compressor and TD06 turbine, same turbo as TD06SH-25G. T78 is the compressor of TD08 and turbine of TD07, T88 uses compressor and turbine from TD08. Garrett Turbos: Garrett basically has two lines of turbos. The ancient, inefficient T series turbos and the new, modern, ball bearing GT series turbos. T family has T22, T25, T3, T350, To4B, To4E, TS04, To4R ...These are 50 year old, WWII generation turbos. The newer line of GT turbos are ball bearing on journal and thrust bearing. The turbine and compressor wheels are improvely aerodynamically to flow more air. GT20, GT22, GT25, GT30, GT35, GT40, GT45, GT50... GT turbos produce slightly more hp then older T series turbos with the same number designation. A GT Garrett turbine wheel wil flow more air than similar sized Greddy turbine wheel. Thus GT turbos are able to boost higher and flow more. Turbonetics and many domestic makers turbos based on T series turbos. A T3/To4E 60 T .63A/R is a hybrid turbo with T3 turbine, To4E compressor, 60 Trim compressor wheel and .63 A/R turbine housing. Wheel "trim" refers to the squared ratio of the smaller diameter divided by the larger diameter times 100. Generally, the larger the trim number the more flow the wheel has. For compressor wheels , larger trim tends to mean slightly lower efficiency. For "families" of turbine wheels (those with the same inducer diameter), larger trim usually means better flow with less backpressure but longer spool time. A/R is a ratio of the exhaust discharge area vs the distance from the center of turbine wheel to the center of the cross sectional area. Smaller A/R housing has faster spool up. Bigger A/R housing has less back pressure, more flow for the top end. The so called "T-series': T60, T61, T66, T70, T72, T76... are T4 turbos as well. The number means the compressor inducer size. ie: T76 means it has 76mm compressor inducer. Taken from http://www.dsmtalk.com Mirage2.0 TDO4-9A stock turbo on a G32BT 83-86 TDO4-9B Stock turbo on a G32BT 87-88 TDO4-11B Stock turbo on a 4G61T 1989 4cm exhaust housing. TDO4H-13C Can be found on the Lebaron GTs. Exhaust housing will have to be replaced by your stock exhaust housing and machined to accept the TDO4H exhaust wheel. Lebarons exhaust housing will not bolt onto your stock header/manifold. 330cfm@15psi of boost. TDO4H-13G DSM Automatics. 360cfm@15psi of boost. 5cm exhaust housing. TDO4H-15G Upgrade turbo sold in Europe and Japan. 440cfm@15psi of boost. 5cm exhaust housing. TDO5-12A stock Starion/Conquest turbo1986-1989. 320 cfms@15psi of boost. 8 cm exhaust housing. exhaust housing is not a direct bolt up to a DSM. Cartrideg and compressor could be swapped into a TDO5 DSM exhaust housing if needed in a quick replacement but not recommended. TDO5-14B Stock DSM turbo here in the USA. 420cfm@15PSi of boost. 6cm exhaust housing. Can upgrade exhaust housing for more midrange to top end using the 7cm exhaust housing. TDO5-14G Upgrade turbo for the Starions and Conquests. 465cfm@15PSi of boost. Starion and Conquests came stock with 8cm exhaust housings. To use on a DSM you will want to take a 6cm or 7cm exhaust housing from a DSM and install it due to the fact the 8cm exhaust housing uses a different downpipe bolt pattern and shape is different to make installation much harder and require custom fabrication. TDO5-16G Upgrade for DSM 505cfm@15psi of boost. Looks the same as 14B. 7cm exhaust housing. TDO5-Super16G 550cfm@15psi of boost Looks the same as 14B. 7cm exhaust housing. TDO5-16G EVOIII 550cfm@15psi of boost exhaust housing is shapped different 7cm or more. Looks the same as 14B. TDO5-16G EVOIV-VIII larger compressor housing and dual exhaust scrolls. Some exhaust wheels and shafts are titanium depending on if you are in the USA or not. 550cfm@15PSi of boost. 8.5cm exhaust housing. TDO5-16G EVO IX Larger compressor housing, larger exhaust housing then previous EVOs, and larger exhaust wheel and it is titanium this year in the USA. 10cm exhaust housing. TDO5-17C custom job. Usually done using TDO5-14B, looks the same as 14B. 550cfm@15PSI of boost and pulls hard in mid range then 16G series wheels. 6cm or 7cm exhaust housing depending on turbo builder. TDO5-18G custom job. Usually done using TDO5-14B, looks the same as 14B. 585cfm@15psi of boost. 6cm or 7cm exhaust housing depending on turbo builder. TDO5-19C custom job. Usually done using TDO5-14B, looks the same as 14B. 600cfm@15psi of boost. 6cm or 7cm exhaust housing depending on turbo builder. TDO5/6-17C custom job. Usually done using TDO5-14B. uses a TDO6 compressor housing. Better midrange to top end. 550cfm@15PSI of boost. 6cm or 7cm exhaust housing depending on turbo builder. TDO5/6-18G custom job. Usually done using TDO5-14B. uses a TDO6. compressor housing. Better midrange to top end. 585cfm@15PSI of boost. 6cm or 7cm exhaust housing depending on turbo builder. TDO5/6-19C custom job. Usually done using TDO5-14B. uses a TDO6 compressor housing. Better midrange to top end. 600cfm@15PSI of boost. 6cm or 7cm exhaust housing depending on turbo builder. TDO5/6-20G custom job. Usually done using TDO5-14B. uses a TDO6 compressor housing. Better midrange to top end. 650cfm@15PSI of boost. 6cm or 7cm exhaust housing depending on turbo builder. TDO6-17C Stock turbo that came on the Syclone/Typhoons. This turbo was later used by turbo builders to bring us the TDO5/6-20G using the TDO6 exhaust wheel. Usually done using TDO6 cartridge, using a TDO6 compressor housing and machining a TDO5 exhaust housing to accept the TDO6 exhaust wheel. Incredible midrange to top end. 550cfm@15PSI of boost. 8cm exhaust housing and it will need an adapter plate. TDO6-18G custom job. Usually done using TDO6 cartridge, using a TDO6 compressor housing and machining a TDO5 exhaust housing to accept the TDO6 exhaust wheel. Incredible midrange to top end. 585cfm@15PSI of boost. 8cm exhaust housing and it will need an adapter plate. TDO6-19C custom job. Usually done using TDO6 cartridge, using a TDO6 compressor housing and machining a TDO5 exhaust housing to accept the TDO6 exhaust wheel. Incredible midrange to top end. 600cfm@15PSI of boost. 8cm exhaust housing and it will need an adapter plate. TDO6-20G custom job. Usually done using TDO6 cartridge, using a TDO6 compressor housing and machining a TDO5 exhaust housing to accept the TDO6 exhaust wheel. Incredible midrange to top end. 650cfm@15PSI of boost. 8cm exhaust housing and it will need an adapter plate. TDO6/7-22C custom job. Usually done using TDO6 cartridge, using a TDO7 compressor housing and machining a TDO6 exhaust housing to accept the TDO6H exhaust wheel made for more mid-renage to topend power. Insane midrange to top end. 700cfm@15PSI of boost. Also hans racecraft sells this turbo. 8cm exhaust housing and it will need an adapter plate. TDO6/7-23D custom job. Usually done using TDO6 cartridge, using a TDO7 compressor housing and machining a TDO6 exhaust housing to accept the TDO6H exhaust wheel made for more mid-renage to topend power. Insane midrange to top end. 730cfm@15PSI of boost. Also hans racecraft sells this turbo. 8cm exhaust housing and it will need an adapter plate. TDO6/7-24V custom job. Usually done using TDO6 cartridge, using a TDO7 compressor housing and machining a TDO6 exhaust housing to accept the TDO6H exhaust wheel made for more mid-renage to topend power. Insane midrange to top end. 800cfm@15PSI of boost. Also hans racecraft sells this turbo. 8cm exhaust housing and it will need an adapter plate. TD06/7-25G custom job. Sold by Greddy. Usually done using TDO6 cartridge, using a TDO7 compressor housing and machining a TDO6 exhaust housing to accept the TDO6/7 custom exhaust wheel made for Greddy. . Insane midrange to top end. 850cfm@15PSI of boost. Also hans racecraft sells this turbo. Sold by Greddy for MR2 and DSM Upgrade turbo kits. 8cm exhaust housing and it will need an adapter plate. TDO7-25G Greddy Turbo TDO7/8-33D Greddy Turbo TDO7/8-34V Greddy Turbo TDO8-33D Greddy Turbo TDO8-34V Greddy Turbo __________________ And on the eighth day turbo lag was created, to give the row goat's hope! For What It's Worth. KEN