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The info is here, just no pictures to help. I’m at the stage where I’m now putting the front of the engine on. I purchased the bsek from dads, but the instructions are vague w/regard to how to properly install the entire kit. I have the guides where they go, and the pump modified, and bolted on, can somebody refer me to an actual thread or video that shows detailed pics so I can put this thing together correctly? Thanks as always.

Welcome! My advice would be to get it running on the stock engine. Then clean it up and take care of all the maintenance it needs. Doing a swap is not for the faint of heart. It will take 4 times longer than you think and cost 3x as much, at least. Saying you are "new to cars" and then following it up with swap plans is likely to end up a disaster and/or never get finished.

I'll contact Ryddler and see what he has to say about why the size limit and if he can increase it. Be patient, it may take a couple of days. Jimmy

In any build you need to check the gap, I always used factory specs on the gap just staying towards high side, sometimes you need to open it up, you will need to see. Forget checking oil rails as they are always over spec. Dad

ad130 - If you're in distress I can probably find a solution. Used but good flywheels are available but will be around the $300+ range after shipping and especially after surfacing if it needs it. The shops you called probably won't touch lightening the flywheel for liability purposes, but if they won't resurface it or redrill it, they are flat-out incompetent and would not be worth your money anyway. I've been around for a while. I'm not a huge name, but trusted in the community. If you're in dire need and this is a viable solution, ship me your flywheel and I will take it to my local machine shop for resurfacing, re-drilling, and possibly to lighten it as well. They typically charge me $40-60 for a resurface with a few days turn-around. Good old dudes.

Thanks Kev. I figured that the mechanism is a grease it and let it eat kinda thing. I addded roller bearings to the underside from an old strut mount kit that I had laying around. On top, I just “lubrilated” the nut contact surface and tightened it finger tight. still doesn’t make any sense to me that this is how they did this. 11th hour, last minute. How are we gonna fix this kinda crap.

I think I’ve succeeded

The round ring gets pressed into the front upper balance shaft hole. it blocks off the oil passage down to the main bearing, you can use a bushing installer or flat plate just slam it in there flush, I always added some retaining compound because we had it there Just be sure it goes in straight and tight, You are now done with the upper shaft area, Take the stub shaft and slide it into the oil pump in place of the lower shaft, where the flats are clamp it into a vice ( be sure to leave clearance between back of oil pump and top of vice so the gasket surface doesn't get scratched, clean oil from threads and install the one bolt with some blue thread locker and torque it ( I think 45 lbs, whatever factory is for the bolt to balance shaft) Install your oil pump to block, take chain and both gears together and slide them into place, If I recall teeth on the small gear are to be closer to oil pump- don't pay attention to timing marks sonce there are no balance shafts, you can dummy them up to check alignment of the big and small gear, that's important. Once you figure direction install the woodruff key in oil pump, slide gears and chain together on crank and oil pump- BE SURE KEY DOES NOT FALL OUT! Next put a box end wrench on the other bolt, be sure no oil in oil pump threads, again blue threadlock on threads, deep well 6 point socket and tourque the bolt ( The box end wrench will spin up against your socket so you can torque it - I think a picture of that is on my facebook page. Hope this helps, Dad

Found this one...from one of my older cqs. This is what happens when you don't keep them cleaned and greased. They seize up and the whole post starts turning in the cowl. But you can see the clip on the top there..just under the taperd spline.

While a 500kb limit might have been fine back in the day, modern phones usually take photos around 2-3mb at a minimum. While there are many free image compression tools online, getting an image below 500kb might not be possible and it’s an extra barrier to entry on the site, the same with using an outside file hosting service. And 73kb like the SHP wheel example above might only be possible if you were uploading from a flip phone. Our cars might be from the 80’s but it would be nice if this site allowed for a more modern user experience, I’m sure it would boost engagement.

I just tried to add one. Got told it exceeded the max limit of 121kb, and was dropped. I don’t have a single pic that small… that’s like avatar size or just crap resolution. ive had a Photobucket account since 2012. It has always worked for me. Every time I try to post an update on a web forum and have multiple pics to add to the update, using the web forums internal hosting feature has either limited the number of pics, made me restrict either the size or resolution in order to do the update. not worth the hassle.

The 500 kb max size doesn't let me add any of my pictures. I belong to other online clubs and have no problem posting any picture straight from my phone.

Thanks, I’ll do that. I was pretty careful about pushing the ring in using the bottom of the oil ring land as a stop point, but it won’t hurt to try it again using the second ring as a stop point. I do intend to put some boost in the mix, ( 17-20 psi).I wouldn’t have spent the xtra money in the forged pistons otherwise.

There's some truth to that for sure. 😁

I find many of the old threads useful. It just takes some digging and knowing who to ignore

Broken links and no pics definitely make a lot of it less than ideal. Finding someone willing to put in the time to clean it up is the problem now

Nope it’s not necessary to change both…any many people do not (some do, but not required at all) Steve

I absolutely hate the factory auto shifter. Way too faded, way too tall, and just too damn dorky looking for my taste. So,… I removed it. And cut it up. I shortened the shaft by 2.5”. Inside that shaft is a little weenie actuator rod that unscrews from the gear selector part of the mechanism. Initially I used it as a reference for where that part would have to be cut, but ultimately unscrewed that dude, and discarded it. The conversion kit I bought uses a 1/4” diameter rod instead. The problem is that the base that the weenie rod unscrewed out of didn’t have enough meat to support a 1/4” re-thread. All It would accept was an 8-32 tap. That meant I’d have to drill and tap the other end of my 1/4” bolt that now rides in the middle of the shifter shaft…..By hand…with just a regular hand held drill. Ultimately, I managed to get it centered and straight “ enough” to put a short section of threaded 8-32 rod in place in the 1/4 bolt, so that I could screw the bolt into the base. The kit is cheap. Purchased from a C-3 Corvette supplier it comes with an adapter to allow a conventional manual shifter handle/ball to screw onto it that screws onto a 1/4” shaft that controls the shift selector pattern. There’s also a sleeve that screws to the adapter that slides over the shaft to control the up/down movement of the handle…30 bucks. https://www.speeddawg.com/universal-automatic-shifter-adapter-with-16mm-x-1-50-threads-polished-aluminum/#gallery it only comes shiny……I don’t like shiny, so I painted mine. Hopefully that’ll last. I also had to deal with the factory gear position indicator decal that was cloudy and peeling away from the back side. I just eliminated it, sanded it smooth and painted the back side black. The pattern decal that is on top, is from B&M, and comes with 5 other pattern decals that you’ll never use. Big waste as far as I’m concerned, but at least it gives some sense of the gear it’s in. presently is no longer illuminated, but I may change that w/a small tiny light that will light from the side once the console is back on top. Also, the O/D button needs to be moved, and I’ll just relocate that switch to the console itself too. supposed to be a vid,…but I don’t know what’s required here to make this work.

If you still have your 225mm, you can have it lightened at a machine shop as well as have it re-drilled for a 240mm pressure plate. That will be the cheaper and easier option

Tr- star radiator repairs them https://tristarrradiator.com/ Dad

But to be sure check with your piston manufacturer. Dad is a good resource also.