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Lets do a basic rebuild


Dad
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Randy,

 

When you decked the block 0.004" to get the deck even: how many degrees did those 0.004" retard the cam timimg?

 

Did you degree in the cam by drilling another "pin" hole in the cam gear/sprocket at the proper degree to adjust it?

 

If so, what method/degree wheel did you use?

 

Do you have any pictures of this?

 

Thanks.

 

KEN

 

 

Ken, I can't answer that as I did not use a degree wheel to check it, It was well within spec cutting .004 off the block and installing a new head.

It would be different if the head was cut too.

 

Randy

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decking the block is not gona have much effect at all on the cam timeing ,,

:) after all just how thick is .004"

the timeing chains and gears wear way more then that in 10k miles

 

 

Agreed! Shelby, and if it does retard the timing would that not help top end HP?

 

 

On SBC we many times advanced the timing to help with power on the low rpm scale and retarded would help top end.

Dad

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  • 6 months later...
  • 6 months later...

THANKS FOR YOUR INSIGHT RANDY AND YOU DIDN'T EVEN BRAG ABOUT WHAT YOU HAVE OR QUESTION OTHER,THAT WAS AWSOME INFO.T.E.P EAT THAT,OVERCHARGE YOURSELF.AWSOME RANDY AWSOME

DRAN1

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  • 2 months later...

This is sort of rednek, but I check for block flatness with an 18" long flat file, light strokes on the long diagonal. You will always see pulling at the head bolt holes, and often lows between the bores and the water jacket holes.

 

Nice work on the block. I like oringing the block, too, especially if you are using a copper head gasket. How do you handle the two oring ends? Butted or beveled?

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This is sort of rednek, but I check for block flatness with an 18" long flat file, light strokes on the long diagonal. You will always see pulling at the head bolt holes, and often lows between the bores and the water jacket holes.

 

Nice work on the block. I like oringing the block, too, especially if you are using a copper head gasket. How do you handle the two oring ends? Butted or beveled?

 

 

Square the ends on valve grinder and butt together.

 

Dad

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  • 6 months later...
  • 6 months later...

I just got my block back from the machine shop and putting it together. Should I use thread lock on the main cap bolts and the rod cap nuts? I have heard both ways on this, but I trust your word most.

Thanks, and GOD bless.

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I just got my block back from the machine shop and putting it together. Should I use thread lock on the main cap bolts and the rod cap nuts? I have heard both ways on this, but I trust your word most.

Thanks, and GOD bless.

 

 

No thread locker on them, just oil. unless they are arp then the Arp moly lube.

 

Dad

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  • 3 months later...
  • 4 weeks later...
I have a question about torque values. In the write up Randys says 80 for the head studs and 35 for the rod bolts. ARP states 90 for the head and 40 for the rods......which is correct? Edited by MBONDO
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  • 4 months later...

Hey dad every so often i read this thread on the basic build trying to let it all sink in. There is a lot of info and a lot of

key steps to follow to make sure everything is going according to the build sheet and all components are within spec.

Thanks alot for this post. :D :D :D

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  • 2 months later...

Right before the sixth photo he writes: "You want to be sure the shop has your gear cover installed for this process."

 

Short answer: Yes. (Someone correct me if I'm wrong.)

 

 

 

 

I've never commented on this post before, but since it's not locked, I will. Beautiful work, Randy, Thanks for putting it out there. That's a helluva lot of excellent information.

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