fasteddy

That's a British std pipe thread fitting. THere are two types, straight and tapered, and there are adapters widely available. Do a google on bspp for straight, and bspt for tapered with "adapter" appended. I think autometer sells them, for one... You can get a bsp male to npt female, and then use the common locally available npt barb size of your choice...

wanted: engine complete (running or not, but must be rebuildable, prefer with bs still installed all harness plus 6" of car side harness at b52 connector, with all devices attached ecu and control relay i/c and hoses oil cooler and hoses complete cruise with actuator, vac pump, linkage, vac tank , computer and harness, and switches optional Must be 87-89, preferred 88-89, can be dsm maf modified email at theeddy@charter.net Local or near local preferred. Im in NE GA. This is for a montero/raider conversion

they are even more fun with a 4g54bt i/c in them... Sorry to see you gone from the monty forum, Kane

190 is start to open on stock tstat, fully open at 212. Buy this part from the stealer...

This is sort of rednek, but I check for block flatness with an 18" long flat file, light strokes on the long diagonal. You will always see pulling at the head bolt holes, and often lows between the bores and the water jacket holes. Nice work on the block. I like oringing the block, too, especially if you are using a copper head gasket. How do you handle the two oring ends? Butted or beveled?

And if you let this go on long, kiss the head gasket goodbye. Aluminum heads are not forgiving of overheating in any degree. The head bows up from heat expansion, stretches the head bolts which kills the clamping force, and the head gasket blows out, usually on one of the two center cylinders. Serial chronic mild overheating will do the same thing. If you have coolant disappearing without a visible leak, the head gasket may well be already gone. A telling hint is a sweetish smell at the tailpipe. Check the upper ends of the radiator flues for solder bloom (whitish crud around/in the little oval tubes). Check the tstat opening per Jimmy. I would run the stock tstat heat. Your radiator is due for at least rodding out, usually a one day job. If you have to have the car, hit the junk yard for a temp radiator and swap it in for a day or two. You will spend around a hundred $ for the rodding out. Check the fans/relays/sensors per previous advice. Overheating is death on these motors. Avoid it like the plague...

y'all have no idea how much fun this thread has been to read... It's leakin' fuel from somewhere. Test it per Mike. Fix what leaks. My best guess is that the fuel sitting over the winter varnished up. Try putting a drop of acetone (home depot paint dept) on the spray nozzle and let it sit for a while. Then put some down the supply end and let it sit for a while. Shake it all out, and reinstall. Replace the fuel filter, and drain and discard the gas in the tank. Dump some acetone in the tank and add at least 5gal of fuel.

Or a high rpm misfire from bad plugs...

I've gone both routes in a similar size radiator. I've had them rodded for around $90, and I had another one recored for around $230 with a real good quality 3 row core. This was on a Montero with essentially the same radiator, and I guarantee you if you 3row it, and the fans and tstat work, and the head gasket is sound, it WILL NOT overheat. BTW, the Montero had a 275rwhp starquest motor in it. Rodding is usually sufficient if they can actually cleat the flues well. You can usually tell if it needs to be rodded by looking into the radiator fill hole and seeing if there are solder blooms around/in the flues. A chemical flush of the block is not a good idea the way I look at it. Way too likely to erode the heater core metal. You can get most of the same effect with a capfull of Dawn to "wet" the cooling jacket walls. I recommend the stock heat tstat to keep the ecu ect sensor from pushing the mixture rich, and that's the temp the engine stock clearances are designed for. And I also recommend the oem tstat. The aftermarket tstats I've used are mostly junk, hanging up, lacking piddle valves, opening fast or slow, and prone to failure early. I've had two come apart. I do not recommend 99% of the replacement non oem radiators I've seen. The mitsu radiator has a lot more metal in the tanks, and is a lot better made. The one time I bought one, it sprung leaks in 4 places within a month, and that was from a well regarded supplier. Got my money back and had my old one recored, and got 150k miles out of it before I parked the ride for something more interesting.

Not much ammonia in the system, and it takes 300ppm to do much damage. The ammonia system has hydrogen gas in it. Now, that's an explosion risk, but they are talking about hydrogen fueled cars. Ever seen a freon fire? That stuff is nastier than ammonia when it burns. I've got access to ammonia. We have tons and tons of ammonia reefer systems around here, since if you eat chicken nuggets, we probably made them here. I can pass 5 warehouse (BIG warehouse) size freezers in 10 minutes. We even have a commercial ammonia reefer tech course at the local tech school.

Try the radiator shop under/in back of larryville auto parts. I had a very similar Montero 2.6 core done there several years ago for my turbo conversion. They measured my tanks and ordered a 3 row core to fit. It works very nice, even hillclimbing at low speeds with a lot of boost. Stock fan and fan clutch.

I've been fiddling with this idea for several years. My first idea was to use the a/c system with a second loop and accumulator to chill the water that way, and I think it would work, but I think I have a better idea that doesn't suck up hp. I was fooling with my son's new Westphalia camper veedub van, which has a 12v/120v refrigerator. It uses an ammonia refrig system, and like the 12v/120v/propane reefer units, and I had a eureka moment. All you need is a heat source to run the ammonia reefer. We have a dandy free heat source in the exhaust downstream of the turbo. I understand freon a/c systems just fine, but I'm iffy on ammonia systems, although I know most commercial freezers use it, since it can produce lower temps with greater efficiency. I figure you can get the water medium down to 0*F pretty easy with antifreeze in the htwooh. Any ME's out there? I need some help sizing the system, and developing piping/reservoir specs. What are the dangers in ammonia systems?

Also look at grapeape in the induction section for some formulas and designs...

GM (hydroboost) and BMW used hydraulic power brakes...

The caravan cam will fit if you cut off the rear "tail", or use the rubber donut seal for the caravan instead of the StarQuest rear plug, but with a pressurized engine, I'd cut off the tail (or have a machine shop do it for $15).

TR Magna had Astron3 with roller rockers, larger combustion chamber (looks same size in pics, but who knows), bigger valves (in pics, exhaust looks bigger and intake same size), better cooling, per a set of shop manuals I got from an Aussie friend. Cam was different on specs than any other 2.6 cam I've ever seen. Every 2.6 I've ever read specs on gave the cam timing as 25-59-64-20. The TR Magna is 25-61-66-20. I think stock 2.6 vavle lengths were intake 107.96 -exh 105.86, and TR magna is the same - both use 102 link timing chains, and both have the same valve installed height of 40.40mm (+ 1mm). You've obviously done a ton of cam research. What are you thoughts on using the Astron3 Magna cam with what should be steeper ramps with the roller rockers on a 8.2:1 turbo motor running a 14G? I'll probably be using a Magna manifold with either SDS or Megasquirt, and low end torque is my main goal, with a 5500rpm redline. Would like to see 300ftlbs of torque - hp is almost immaterial due to low redline with the long stroke motor.

I'm not running the same road as you guys (turbo montero), because my brick will never turn good #'s in the quarter, but have any of you ever run the Magna roller cam on the turbo 2.6? Results? It's the only stock 2.6 cam I've ever seen with different specs than the stock Starion cam.