dadrab

Oddly enough, I replaced the coil first...nothing. So, I proceeded to replace the fuel filter. Begrudingly, she fired up. So, I put the old coil back in...nothing. I reckon it was a combination of the two. The new coil went back in and she's up and running just fine now. Thanks very much for the answers and well-wishes guys. I surely do appreciate it.

I haven't really been able to check for spark yet due to only having one set of hands. That's definitely on the agenda once I can find someone to help. I have a metal case knock box and wouldn't have thought it to be a problem. Still, it's worth checking. I'm off to get a new fuel filter for now and hope for the best. I'm sure it needs changing regardless.

Good idea. Since my initial post, I've done exactly what you recommend. Some fuel came out (a couple of tablespoons maybe) and there was some pressure - at least enough to cause a little spurt, but not much more. I'll replace the filter and see where we go from there. It has been a while since I've done that.

Good morning, folks. Interestingly, son #2 goes to start his truck this morning (87 Montero with 89 Starquest stock rig under the hood) and it wouldn't fire off. There's plenty of cranking power and I've already swapped in a known good coil. So, it ain't fire. I can hear the fuel pump running and when I pulled the hose from the fuel filter to the throttle body loose, there was a mild pressure release and a little fuel dripped out. So, the fuel pump could be going south, but I'm not sure what kind of pressure that thing should build stock. Could be the filter as well, I suppose. I tend to believe it's getting air. Checked the filter and it looks OK. What do you all think? It ran fine yesterday as he drove it several times. Thanks in advance, all.

It sounds over simplistic, but make sure you're doing your diagnosis in an air conditioned space. When it's 100 degrees outside and you're trying to tell whether the air coming out of a non-air conditioned vent is cooling off, it's naturally going to feel heated...all that's happening is the circulation of already hot air.

That's the one.

Sounds like a fuel issue anyway. How old is the fuel pump? It's pretty easy to change on that thing. Fuel filter could be clogged as well. Has it been sitting for any prolonged period?

I'm assuming this is a naturally aspirated 2.6 engine, correct? Is it stock? Just as a first pass, I'd say there's a vacuum leak somewhere. That spaghetti tangle under the hood is notorious for leaking somewhere. Our old buddy, the Mikuni carb could need to be rebuilt, too. Give us some more details.

Welding cast iron is not something I'd want to mess with - and I can weld. There are specific techniques involved that are not necessary on other types of metals. There was a crack in the manifold on my engine that had been there since I bought it. I'd tried to repair it with a mixture of some sort. It held for a while, but eventually vaporized. When the head had to be replaced recently, I folded up and bought a new manifold from http://www.enginemachineservice.com/conquest.html . It was money well-spent as the manifold came with all new Mitsu. gaskets as well as studs and nuts.

Yep. And, don't put it off. The engine will not heal itself.

Well...GOOD for you, man. I'm glad you got it sorted. I've been following this thread since its inception. Sorry I couldn't help. But, you had guys with real knowledge on your side that stuck with you. I think I've learned a few things, too. Well-done fellas.

@ Frenchi934 Nice site. Thanks for the link. One question, if I may... When you talk about replacing o-rings, which ones specifically? All of them in the system or just the ones on the receiver/dryer? Thanks.

If the valve stem seals are leaking, there's going to be smoke at start-up. Seen it too many times... But, if you're losing three quarts a week, I'm surprised the car will even run.

By now, I'm sure you're sick of hearing "do this; don't do that," but I would not reuse an oil pump. That's too significant a component. They're a royal pain in the tail to get to; an old one might be full of debris that you're trying to get rid of and they're relatively cheap. Buy one from Mitsubishi and be done with worrying about it.

Ummm....Dude...the man's offering to help for the cost of beers. Let him. Grab a case of chillys, load that old block into the back of the car and head his way. That way you can put together a comprehensive list of what you need to build an engine that won't crap out on you in 10,000 miles. There ain't no work worse than the work you have to do twice.

Right before the sixth photo he writes: "You want to be sure the shop has your gear cover installed for this process." Short answer: Yes. (Someone correct me if I'm wrong.) I've never commented on this post before, but since it's not locked, I will. Beautiful work, Randy, Thanks for putting it out there. That's a helluva lot of excellent information.

Think about it, dude.... We've been dancing in this topic since May 21. It's great recreation, but it ain't getting you any closer to a running car. There's metal in that engine and I wouldn't drive it - oil analysis or none. I ain't very smart and I'm as bad as the next guy about wanting to ignore the inevitable, but this situation's been "bottom lined" by several guys who are damn good at this stuff. Work the bottom end of your spare and do it right. Bearings are cheap. Machine work's not as cheap, but less expensive than replacement and a damn sight cheaper than doing nothing and watching the asset rot (which is the sub-bottom line, by the way...). Get the block line bored and decked. That'll keep your costs down. Clean it yourself with a pressure washer, some solvent and some elbow grease. I'm not very good at ringing or handling pistons and I'd probably have the shop do that, too, but suit yourself. There's a great sticky from Dad on what he does to rebuild. He makes a living doing it, so honest-to-God professional experience is staring smooth at you. Build that bottom up with freshened, CLEANED components from the engine currently in the car. You don't have to have a new head, but you'll have to take yours apart and clean everything, including the oil cooler. While it's true cleaning probably isn't as good as replacing, what do you have more of? Money or time? Clean it well and it should be just fine. New gasket kit and new hoses and belts (all relatively cheap) and your're driving again. Not a free fix, but not overly expensive either.

Coolant lines are not terribly difficult either, there's just a pile of 'em. If you haven't already, download the appropriate service manual for your car and go to the cooling section. They're all there. Just go one page at a time until you're done. Break it up into sections if it makes you feel better - i.e. intake side first, exhaust side, radiator. Some of the ones in the back are a true PITA to get to (at least on a truck), but they'll come together with some fiddling. There are several that are bent (molded) hoses. Get them from your dealer or parts house. There's one that I had to have a kid at O'Reilly's match up for me, but he did a helluva job and it fit perfectly. When I first did it - Starquest engine in a Montero - I stressed like an SOB until I followed the above advice given me by a wise soul from this site (or it's forerunner). It ain't hard, it's just a little tedious.

What'd you do? O2 sensor?

I believe the notion that used oil is considered "hazardous" precipitates the question.

Same thing happened on one of my Monteros. The filler neck was rotten and leaking, but the drip was manifesting itself further down the tank as the drip was running on the tank seam. Check that neck first. On my 91 Montero, the neck was fine, but rust inside the tank was plugging up the fuel injectors. At $35 apiece for cleaning, I let that happen twice before I pulled the tank and coated the inside with a POR15 tank sealer kit. It's been fine ever since.

If by TBS you mean throttle body, then yes, Dad has them. As for "how tos'" the best bet is the service manual. Get it here: http://www.starquestclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=124229

I'd also buy an Ajusa head gasket from him unless you're not planning to pull the head.

Dad is a regular poster on this forum. He's got what you need. http://www.enginemachineservice.com/conquest.html

They probably won't rebuild because they don't know how. It's not that they're not a good shop, just probably don't have anyone with experience with the 2.6L Mitsu engine. Rebuilds cost a lot, too (a lot of little "this and thats") and high-end shop rebuilds cost even more. If your uncle ends up selling you back the car, rebuild it. It ain't rocket science. Hell, even I did it.