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Heatshield Removal


BrazilBoy
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Thats what I kind of thought, just wondering because I have seen so many people remove them. I thought I was over causious. guess not. Paint them up good thought. I have heard oven paint is very good. I used oven paint on the inside fender wheels to prevent rock chips and such on my 74 Z28.
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My 88 was a hack job when I got it, and the sheilds had been removed. The harness for the antilock brake mechanism had been melted to the point I couldn't get it unplugged. Had to work with it a while, then put the unit from my 87 on to get the light on the dash to go out.
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You remove the shields and your turbo will cook your plug wires.

 

 

really? ive never had a problem.

 

I removed all of mine, but i no longer have a lot of the clutter in the corner. If you still have your ac lines, abs and all the other crap you need to keep that large one that bolts to the fender wall. I cant see how it would cook the plug wires unless they are routed different than stock because mine arent even close to the turbo.

 

http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj39/shift1313/Starion/engine%20bay%20location/TurboMani2.jpg

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Thats what I kind of thought, just wondering because I have seen so many people remove them. I thought I was over causious. guess not. Paint them up good thought. I have heard oven paint is very good. I used oven paint on the inside fender wheels to prevent rock chips and such on my 74 Z28.

 

A wire brush and some bbq grill (high heat) spray paint work pretty good.

 

dc

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Most people leave off the shield over the turbo when they use a catless dp with no problems....

Interesting I have Dp and a full HKS 2 1/2 inch exhaust. I was also considering puttind a 300z scoop over the turbo so the air flow would cool the turbo right?

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I was thinking even if you got stuck in traffic the heat of the turbo would escape from the scoop even if it weren't moving. So this should reduce some under hood high temp issues. Plus the most important reason is it would look cool.
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Only the center section of the turbo is cooled by water or oil. The exhaust side doesn't get any cooling help at all. It can get hot enough to have a dull glow after a long drive, especially a high-speed or hill-climb drive that has a lot of higher power driving. This is what the factory heat shields are designed for. They have to protect:

 

a) ABS claptrap.

B) spark plug wires

c) paint on the hood

d) engine mounts

e) rubber hoses in that area (vac lines, a/c hoses, power steering hoses, wires, etc.)

 

Folks that removed the heat shield & insulation blanket from the hood have sometimes discovered bubbled/ruined paint on their hoods some time after removing the heat shields... the damage doesn't happen instantly but it does accumulate. The paint discolors a tiny bit each time it gets over-heated until you can see the damage. If the heat builds up high enough though it blisters too.

 

Adding extra cooling airflow to this area probably will help - especially during "spirited" driving when exhaust temps are the highest. However, "heat soak" when you shut down is still an issue.

 

The various rubber bits age rapidly when hot. Most of those hoses are routed so that the big two-piece heat shield is between them and the hot turbo/exhaust - this both protects the hoses from the heat but it's also a major safety item: if the hoses do spring a leak (from old age, damage, whatever) you do NOT want the oils inside them to spray onto the hot exhaust system. That stuff can burn fast! The heat shields become a barrier to keep oil based fluids away from the hot stuff. The steering system hoses have auto tranny fluid in them - a hydrocarbon based oil that will burn. Brake fluid can burn if hot enough. And a/c refrigerant can break down into a type of toxic nerve gas if exposed to high temps. Look closely at the rubber vs. metal hoses of the brakes, power steering, etc. Where those hoses are close to the hot exhaust (those that run on the firewall behind the engine) you'll see they are metal pipes - much more reliable than rubber bits. The rubber parts are used where they HAVE to be used to allow engine rocking/vibration.

 

mike c.

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Only the center section of the turbo is cooled by water or oil. The exhaust side doesn't get any cooling help at all. It can get hot enough to have a dull glow after a long drive, especially a high-speed or hill-climb drive that has a lot of higher power driving. This is what the factory heat shields are designed for. They have to protect:

 

a) ABS claptrap.

B) spark plug wires

c) paint on the hood

d) engine mounts

e) rubber hoses in that area (vac lines, a/c hoses, power steering hoses, wires, etc.)

 

Folks that removed the heat shield & insulation blanket from the hood have sometimes discovered bubbled/ruined paint on their hoods some time after removing the heat shields... the damage doesn't happen instantly but it does accumulate. The paint discolors a tiny bit each time it gets over-heated until you can see the damage. If the heat builds up high enough though it blisters too.

 

Adding extra cooling airflow to this area probably will help - especially during "spirited" driving when exhaust temps are the highest. However, "heat soak" when you shut down is still an issue.

 

The various rubber bits age rapidly when hot. Most of those hoses are routed so that the big two-piece heat shield is between them and the hot turbo/exhaust - this both protects the hoses from the heat but it's also a major safety item: if the hoses do spring a leak (from old age, damage, whatever) you do NOT want the oils inside them to spray onto the hot exhaust system. That stuff can burn fast! The heat shields become a barrier to keep oil based fluids away from the hot stuff. The steering system hoses have auto tranny fluid in them - a hydrocarbon based oil that will burn. Brake fluid can burn if hot enough. And a/c refrigerant can break down into a type of toxic nerve gas if exposed to high temps. Look closely at the rubber vs. metal hoses of the brakes, power steering, etc. Where those hoses are close to the hot exhaust (those that run on the firewall behind the engine) you'll see they are metal pipes - much more reliable than rubber bits. The rubber parts are used where they HAVE to be used to allow engine rocking/vibration.

 

mike c.

OK So my best bet is to keep the shields and add a scoop for extra ventalation to cool the exhaust side. If I mount the scoop slightly behind the turbo this should help in pushing some air down there.

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We removed mine and had them sandblasted, they looked good with out the high temp paint but I painted them anyway. And they look even better.

 

 

Crystal

Sounds cool got any pics for me? Love to see it!!!!!

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