pure_insanity Posted January 4, 2009 Report Share Posted January 4, 2009 nope, it doesnt seem to matter. im no expert and im sure there are people who will disagree with me but im running ford 4 wire sensors on all of my vehicles. the stock mitsu works ok, except its just a one wire. the 3 and 4 wire seem to work great but ive had nothing but trouble out of the bosch sensors. i stared going to the junkyard and getting the factory ford sensors and havent had trouble in a couple years now. to my understanding all narrow band o2's read from 0-1volt. so it wouldnt matter where it came from. the only difference ive found is how they attatch to the pipe. a flange or threads. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87TurboRaider Posted January 4, 2009 Report Share Posted January 4, 2009 nope, it doesnt seem to matter. im no expert and im sure there are people who will disagree with me but im running ford 4 wire sensors on all of my vehicles. the stock mitsu works ok, except its just a one wire. the 3 and 4 wire seem to work great but ive had nothing but trouble out of the bosch sensors. i stared going to the junkyard and getting the factory ford sensors and havent had trouble in a couple years now. to my understanding all narrow band o2's read from 0-1volt. so it wouldnt matter where it came from. the only difference ive found is how they attatch to the pipe. a flange or threads. I also have problems with the Bosch 02 sensors. The one I have on now is the 2nd in less then 3 years. As for the 4 wire Ford's, besides the signal and heater wire, what are the others for? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DSM RSM 89conquest Posted January 7, 2009 Report Share Posted January 7, 2009 Ed, I need the IAM-1A adapter for my hurricaine 4. I ordered one a couple months back on my amex, but it never arrived. I have left many messages and have yet to recieve a call back. Please contact me one way or another. Thank you Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pure_insanity Posted January 7, 2009 Report Share Posted January 7, 2009 (edited) I also have problems with the Bosch 02 sensors. The one I have on now is the 2nd in less then 3 years. As for the 4 wire Ford's, besides the signal and heater wire, what are the others for? i will have to hunt for this info again, but ive got it somewhere. basically its a signal ground and a heater ground, a signal, and a heater positive. the hard part is the color coding changes from manufaturer to another. i will find that info and post it here for you. once youve got the color codeing, you can run anybodys o2 sensor. Edited January 7, 2009 by pure_insanity Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
md10 Posted January 20, 2009 Report Share Posted January 20, 2009 i have the tb2, does anyone have what it was loaded with from fip. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
83TechMaster Posted January 21, 2009 Report Share Posted January 21, 2009 i have the tb2, does anyone have what it was loaded with from fip. What do you mean by loaded? Josh Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
substock Posted January 21, 2009 Report Share Posted January 21, 2009 What do you mean by loaded? Josh stock tune? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
md10 Posted January 21, 2009 Report Share Posted January 21, 2009 what the settings the ecu had from them. i bought a car from someone with it and it does not run very well. i thought it was megasquirt but its a fip tbi setup. there website says it comes programmed ready to run and i thought it would run more like the stock EFI if it had there ecu settings on it. unless someone else has the same setup and can give me there good running file. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MightyMaxGS-T Posted February 5, 2009 Report Share Posted February 5, 2009 hey i have been trying to call you guys, i have a tb pro kit and i have been building my mpi manifold, i need the harness to make my system mpi so I can run my car when i get my manifold back from the fab shop. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
substock Posted February 6, 2009 Report Share Posted February 6, 2009 hey i have been trying to call you guys, i have a tb pro kit and i have been building my mpi manifold, i need the harness to make my system mpi so I can run my car when i get my manifold back from the fab shop. if you can't get ahold of them let me know, i can build one for you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MightyMaxGS-T Posted February 8, 2009 Report Share Posted February 8, 2009 nope they havent gotten back to me.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
substock Posted April 30, 2009 Report Share Posted April 30, 2009 don't know if this thread is checked anymore, but can someone either attach or link a copy of the 4 injector ecu instructions? I am wanting to pull out my stock harness and i can't find my instructions anywhere that tell the fuse ampage. and also if we could get links to the ignitionpro 1 and edis instructions. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87TurboRaider Posted May 23, 2009 Report Share Posted May 23, 2009 The pink wire is switched ground on the FIP unit. When the engine is cold, this wire is on, but when the engine reaches normal temp or above, the ECI will shut it off (therefore switched by the ECI). I use it to control my FIDLE. Do not use it to ground your fans directly or you'll kill the ECI. Use relays to turn the fans on, with the pink wire controlling the "Coils" of the relays. For the fans, I'd go with dual 40A relays, assuming that you're running dual fans. Avoid putting any amount of current through the pink wire. I sincerely hope that this is what you were asking, but if I misunderstood you, please disregard my post. Rgds, Jms Are you using a relay for the FIDLE? I read somewhere if you use a Bosch fast idle you won't need to use a relay. No one seems to know what the small current is that the pink wire can handle. Angel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shelby Posted August 4, 2009 Report Share Posted August 4, 2009 what yr bosh style idle control you thinking about useing,,all the older ones i recall were directional electric motors connect'd to a flaper , close'd for low idle and idle increase as the flaper open'd further alowing more air to enter the engine meaning they were all idle air bypass valves not plunger and mechanical such as the oem quest use'd what does the FIP and MS use as a signal to drive an idle control 2 wires with reversing +, - or 4 wires , i don't recall any 4 wires not use'd so i'm guessing a 2 wire , i never got into the FIP to learn ecactly how it was intending to control an idle controler Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87TurboRaider Posted August 4, 2009 Report Share Posted August 4, 2009 what yr bosh style idle control you thinking about useing,,all the older ones i recall were directional electric motors connect'd to a flaper , close'd for low idle and idle increase as the flaper open'd further alowing more air to enter the engine meaning they were all idle air bypass valves not plunger and mechanical such as the oem quest use'd what does the FIP and MS use as a signal to drive an idle control 2 wires with reversing +, - or 4 wires , i don't recall any 4 wires not use'd so i'm guessing a 2 wire , i never got into the FIP to learn ecactly how it was intending to control an idle controler I already got the one I need. It's a big bugger. It's for a '95 and works in several cars. It seems to work as you described. On the original car it seems to work with variable voltage. it opens wide and as the car warms up it closes until it reaches idle. the FIP setup uses one wire that is a switched ground. That wire goes to the ground on the idle control. So there's always switched power to the idle control, when the engine warms up, the ECU opens the ground shutting off the IC. I need to hook it up and adjust at what temp the ground opens. The Raider doesn't need to get to 165F to idle fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Funky Phil Posted September 26, 2009 Report Share Posted September 26, 2009 Has anyone converted from the FIP units to a more capable megasquirt or anything? Been thinking about dumping the 2 FIP boxes and going to a single more up to date MS box with fuel/spark control with higher resolution maps. If anyone has done it Im just curious if I can just rewire the FIP harness to it and if they know which wires to put where. phil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Komeuppance Posted September 26, 2009 Report Share Posted September 26, 2009 The FIP unit has a different pin out than the megasquirts, I'm not sure how different but I remember it was enough to require changing a lot of wires around. If you installed the FIP, the MS will be just as easy to install... especially with a new harness. -Robert Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
substock Posted September 28, 2009 Report Share Posted September 28, 2009 Has anyone converted from the FIP units to a more capable megasquirt or anything? Been thinking about dumping the 2 FIP boxes and going to a single more up to date MS box with fuel/spark control with higher resolution maps. If anyone has done it Im just curious if I can just rewire the FIP harness to it and if they know which wires to put where. phil i'm in the process of installing a megajolt with the fip ecu so i can go distributorless(since they are no longer around to offer their own ecu). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jahjah Posted September 28, 2009 Report Share Posted September 28, 2009 Has anyone converted from the FIP units to a more capable megasquirt or anything? Been thinking about dumping the 2 FIP boxes and going to a single more up to date MS box with fuel/spark control with higher resolution maps. If anyone has done it Im just curious if I can just rewire the FIP harness to it and if they know which wires to put where. philI JUST finished switching from a Ignition Pro controller and FIP FC-1 Fuel controller. I switched to a MS 3.0pcb running MS2extra 2.1.0 w/ Map Daddy. I wanted to just switch boxes, and that turned into a new wiring harness, and that turned into me getting rid of my MSD box which turned into me getting me rid of the distributor. Long story short. completely remove your FIP box and wiring harness. Get a megasquirt from www.DIYautotune.com, along with one of their 12 ft harnesses. Each wire on that harness is individually labeled. i Strongly suggest going EDIS right off the bat too. It will save you much much time. if you have any more questions please lemme know. I'd be glad to help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
substock Posted November 30, 2009 Report Share Posted November 30, 2009 anyone have the fuse amp ratings that FIP recommends(in the back of the 4 injector instructions) when pulling your stock harness out? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pure_insanity Posted December 1, 2009 Report Share Posted December 1, 2009 I JUST finished switching from a Ignition Pro controller and FIP FC-1 Fuel controller. I switched to a MS 3.0pcb running MS2extra 2.1.0 w/ Map Daddy. I wanted to just switch boxes, and that turned into a new wiring harness, and that turned into me getting rid of my MSD box which turned into me getting me rid of the distributor. Long story short. completely remove your FIP box and wiring harness. Get a megasquirt from www.DIYautotune.com, along with one of their 12 ft harnesses. Each wire on that harness is individually labeled. i Strongly suggest going EDIS right off the bat too. It will save you much much time. if you have any more questions please lemme know. I'd be glad to help. yes, i say exactly the same. go ms and get the harness and go ahead and do edis right off the bat. i wasted so much time trying to hang onto the old stuff till i could have built 2 new cars in the downtime. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pc85 Posted February 11, 2010 Report Share Posted February 11, 2010 Ed,I just saw a FIP TB-PRO 2R kit for sale "brand new" in box, if FIP is no longer fabricating, are you the only source for tech support or will FIP still provide some assistance?Thanks,Joe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jahjah Posted February 11, 2010 Report Share Posted February 11, 2010 Ed,I just saw a FIP TB-PRO 2R kit for sale "brand new" in box, if FIP is no longer fabricating, are you the only source for tech support or will FIP still provide some assistance?Thanks,Joethe only tech support you will find is from the people on this board Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pc85 Posted February 11, 2010 Report Share Posted February 11, 2010 The kit I saw last night was from an old thread on another club site and it seemed to disappear, so back to the drawing board. Are these kits still available through FIP' website? The website is still up with purchase options, if they're are no longer fabricating, I don't get it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jahjah Posted February 11, 2010 Report Share Posted February 11, 2010 The kit I saw last night was from an old thread on another club site and it seemed to disappear, so back to the drawing board. Are these kits still available through FIP' website? The website is still up with purchase options, if they're are no longer fabricating, I don't get it?why would you even want to buy an engine management system from a company that no longer exists? www.diyautotune.com best place for engine management Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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