DSM RSM 89conquest

I got the hurricaine4, installed it and got it running. I burned out the ignition adapter via a bad ground. Its like a 50$ part, you dont need it if you have an MSD. If you want the setup, Ill sell it to you at a discount. Its pretty much brand new. My tbi stuff still works so I dont need it.

Ed, I need the IAM-1A adapter for my hurricaine 4. I ordered one a couple months back on my amex, but it never arrived. I have left many messages and have yet to recieve a call back. Please contact me one way or another. Thank you

What do you have for the ignition system, stock, msd,IgnitionPro ect? If stock do you have the IAM-1A adapter? if so here is how you test it: http://www.angelfire.com/mech/edwardcase00...pt_new_test.JPG I am using the stock ignition with the IAM-A1 adapter. Ill test it and get back to you. Thanks

I noticed the stock tach wasnt working. There is no mention of this adapter in the install guide. I have to have it to run my car?

ED! I almost gave up on you! I bought the hurricaine 4 and I cant get it to run. The light on my FC1S is not flashing durring cranking. I turn the car on and it flashes once but thats it. The megasquirt software shows the injectors are not pulsing/cycling. The car fired up the first couple times, the map sensor, tps and tach all seem to work fine. Please help me out, i need to make my car run!

I am a totally sympathetic someone having a loss in the family. That being said, I bought a hurricaine 4, it doesnt work and I have been waiting for a call back from FIP for 6 or 7 months. From a customers perspective that is completely unacceptable. I belived in their product enough to support them with my hard earned dollar. FIP needs to RETURN PHONE CALLS.

83tech, thanks for offering to help. My problem is that the injectors do not pulse/cycle, at least this is what the megasquirt software is telling me. I have checked and rechecked the installation. The light on FC1S does not flash(like its supposed to) when I try to start it. It does flash once when I turn the car on. I got the car to fire up once or twice but it wouldnt stay running. Now the car cranks but will not fire at all. I didnt change a thing. I didnt use t taps, all my connections are soldierd. All my grounds are good. My injector resistor unit may be bad, my ingnition adapter may not be sending feedback to the FC1S, or it may be the FC1S itself acting up. Even if one of those things was the problem I couldnt order a replacement because no one at FIP is answering the phone.

First and foremost I am not here to bash either Scott or ED. Beyond being nice guys they make parts for one of my favorite cars. I think highly enough of them to support their product. Here are the facts of my experience with FIP. First, I purchased a hurricaine 4 and have had the same problem with the FC1S from day one. I have left message after message with FIP with no response. This has gone on for the last six months. From the perspective of a customer this is totally unacceptable. I spent more than 2k on a system that does not preform its function! I am currently looking to upgrade to another standalone, Ill try to use the FIP manifold. That being said, I have heard from various sources that megasquirt is notorious for problems, so Im not blaming anyone for a mechanical failure. I do think FIP should stand by their product and return phone calls. Im sure some people have working FIP systems. For 2200.00 they should work. I feel like I got ripped off and I wouldnt do it again.

What did the problem end up being? I am having the same problem with my FIP ecu. When I turn the key the light on the ecu flashes once, but does not flash during cranking. Also my TPS and MAP work fine but the rest of the meters in megatune software are unresponsive.

very clean!

I have the Hurricaine 4 intake and it does have a port on the TB, a fairly large one. I currently have it connected to the port on the front of my valve cover. You think I can just tap into this signal or should I connect the port on the TB to the vac adv directly and the port on the valve cover somewhere else?

Pardon me for misreading, been helping my folks move this weekend and Im beat. I should have been more specific about the build. So you know, I am not building a drag car, I want to be able to cruise and drive slow at times with no problems. I understand the vac adv should see boost pressure now as well as the FPR "most of the time". In thread #3 Shelby said if the FPR sees vacuum only it wont have the right air mix during cruise. In the nxt thread it seemed Chad thought it would be a good thing to have a "vacuum/boost" signal going to the FPR, which seems logical considering there would no longer be a vac signal on boost. A full vac signal to the vac adv will throw off ign. timing, again, it needs boost pressure most of the time. At the bottom of post #4 Chad said that giving the vac adv boost pressure only wouldnt hurt anything it would only retard the timing, not advance it resulting in a loss of responsiveness during off boost driving. Since I am building a street car, my FPR and vac adv should get both vac/boost. Someone correct me if Im wrong.

Some great info here fellas! So the FPR and vac advance need to see both boost AND vac signal? If so, I need to reconfigure my vac lines so that the FPR/ vac advance are connected to the vac port on my manifold as well as the boost pressure port on my turbo? Right now I have my MAP, vac adv, and bov hooked up to the vac port on my manifold while my FPR, boost controller, and wastegate actuator see boost signal from the turbo housing. I should T-off my lines so that the FPR and vac advance get both signals?

Yeah, I reset fuel perssure to 40 and I think I found the problem. The Ignition adapter connection is weak. Im not even sure which connection just yet, but I played with the adapter earlier and she fired right up even with the fuel pressure way too high! I can hear the system click on and off as I move the adapter around. Ill find the weak link and hopefully I can get her to fire on a consistant basis. I am going to upgrade my ignition and get a wideband asap.

Ok, so I hooked the FPR to the pressure port on my turbo housing long with my boost controller and wastegate actuator. I also turned the fuel pressure WAY up, FP gauge read like 60-70! I got it to idle for 30 seconds or so, but it was so rich I turned it off. When I tried to fire it up later, no go! I need that wideband bad.

So I pulled the signal vac line off the FPR and now she idles, but very roughly.

So the car will start, and if I feather the throttle I can get it to run very roughly but the car still wont idle. I have my fuel pressure set to 40 psi. I tried to play with the timing but to no avail. Tried to adjust the idle screw, no difference. I think I will try to add more fuel in the constants table and try again. Any advise would be greatly appreiciated.

Can someone with the Hurricaine 4 or MPI post pics of their vac lines? You would be saving me some time! Thanks

http://s235.photobucket.com/albums/ee202/R...rrent=197-1.flv check this vid out and see if any of you guys can tell what the problem is. i feel like i am close to having her running. she does this every time i turn the key. thanks again for all the help fellas

So I am pleased to say, the car is on the verge of running. It starts up, run for a split second,squeeks, then dies. I am going to lower the fuel presure and play with the timing later tonight. It seems to want to run but something is still not right. Kinda seems like it wants to fire up more easily now it is warmer out.

thumbs up!

Thanks Tec. Once I get her fired Ill adjust the idle. I have the software now, but I dont want to fool with the thing yet. The FC1S is supposed to come preprogrammed and work right out of the box. I rechecked my plugs yesterday, they were dry. I still think my injector resistor unit has shorted out. Why else would I be getting 50psi of fuel and have dry plugs? I checked my wiring and went over the directions from FIP, everything seemed perfect. My fuel requirements are at 7.4 in the ecu software.

Ok, so Im still having problems. I got out the timing light and set the actual timing to 10 btdc. I downloaded the megatune software and saved a copy in the FC-1S, which seems to work just fine. I also bought a brand new optima red top. I pulled plug number three and it was dry. I am thinking the inj. resistor unit may have shorted out somehow. It does not get warm when I turn the car on. The instructions say its supposed to get hot. I hope that turns out to be the problem. Shelby, I am confused why TDC#1 is now at 60-90 btdc. I understand the ecu retards the timing to 10 btdc but why the change in location of TDC#1? Thanks for the help.

I checked the plugs and they were wet. I have no way to check the ecu for timing settings as it came preprogrammed and I dont have the tuner, but it definitely makes sense to have the mechanical timing and the ecu timing in sync. It sounded like it wanted to fire up once yesterday, right after I took it off the battery charger. It just kind of stumbled for a second and died. I get the feeling its the timing like Shelby said. I can check/change the mechanical timing but Ill have to wait to hear from FIP to see what the ecu is set at. I am still running the plugs I used on TBI so maybe I need to go a step colder or change the gapping?

Im trying to get the Hurricaine 4 fired up with the stock ignition. Fuel pressure is at 45psi, I have spark at all four plugs. It turns over but wont fire. Do I need to regap my plugs or change the timing? I called FIP, Im sure I'll hear back from them soon but in the meantime any suggestions would be appreiciated.