tim si Posted September 23, 2008 Author Report Share Posted September 23, 2008 (edited) What did you end up running? ashamed to say :character0032:8.40 http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t126/timtsi/th_Picture012.jpg Edited September 13, 2009 by tim si Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tim si Posted September 23, 2008 Author Report Share Posted September 23, 2008 i think the twin garrets look like the best fit but you would have to re do the last tube on the drivers side to clear.the single turbo kit doesnt look like it will fit to me.im running a wildwood slave cyl.''pull type''it took a while to get it working but works fine now.i ve prob.got about 900 in all my pipes counting coating.anything i can do to help,just let me know.ive battled with driveshaft issues and wrong head gaskets the last couple weeks but should be running again in a day or two.might take it to the track this weekend.street tires only. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
helrazr70 Posted September 25, 2008 Report Share Posted September 25, 2008 I found a slip on McLeod hydraulic throw-out bearing that costs about $325 and can be easily adapted to the stock clutch master cyl with a -4 AN line. I am not sure about any of those kits I listed above. Twin turbo would be great, but the single turbo idea would be more practical. I figure some tweaking would have to be done no matter which kit I got. The single turbo kit is a complete kit and the twin kits are just the headers... I like the idea of a complete kit. I guess I could take a twin kit and only run a single turbo on the passenger side and then make an adapter flange and just run an exhaust pipe from the driver manifold to the passenger manifold or straight to the exhaust pipe. This idea is a few months from happening due to personal finances and a probable career change. I am just researching it now so I am ready when the time comes. I do know that I want to run the smallest most efficient turbo to avoid as much lag as possible. I won't go so small that I lose performance. I guess I am saying I want to run the PERFECT turbo for my combination and goals--which is just a healthy street car with an occasional trip to the track. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tim si Posted September 26, 2008 Author Report Share Posted September 26, 2008 i can def tell you,my 60-1 with.58 a/r is perfect.in 4th or 5th gear it will start to boost at 1800 rpm and is good to around 600 hp.if you want less lag than that youll have to go supercharged which would be alot easier,trust me.i started to go with the hyd throw out bearing but went with the pull type slave for like 80 buck and its working pretty good after i got everything adjusted. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
waynewl34 Posted October 14, 2008 Report Share Posted October 14, 2008 HI, good job . can you tell me how you wired the 5.0 harness and charging system up what wires from the 5.0 harness did you have to use and where did you have to conect them I am putting a drive train out of a 86 mustang gt in mine I have all the wiring from the mustang. I already had this in my othe quest that I sold but I dont remember the connections anyhelp would be appreciated my email is WAYNEWL34@YAHOO.COM Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tim si Posted October 14, 2008 Author Report Share Posted October 14, 2008 hi wayne,its really not too hard.i used the entire engine harness and just hooked it up to a few wires in the plug for the ign.switch.i can check the wire colors and get back to you.you just really need to get power to your ecu when the switch is on and hook up the wires from the ign.switch to the starter.ill pm you the wire colors.thanks for the compliments,tim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
helrazr70 Posted January 20, 2009 Report Share Posted January 20, 2009 driver side header going over steering box and braided steering hoseshttp://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t126/timtsi/P9130197.jpg Hey Tim! What size fitting did you use on the P/S pump pressure line? I have tried a -8 fitting I had laying around and tried an 1/2 MPT fitting and neither fits. What size adapter is that peeking aout there in anodized blue? My swap is underway... mainly in the parts gathering stage right now. Hdre's a few of the things I have gathered: -6 and -8 braided fuel line kits (20ft each and includes fittings and clamps) -6 and -8 fuel rail adapters -8 adaper for my 255lph Walbro 19x26 aluminum radiator and mounting bracket kit. Dart Pro1 aluminum cylinder heads 2.05/1.60 195cfm runners Ford Motorsport E303 camshaft 3/4" drop engine mounts Oil filter relocation kit. New front sump oil pan with new pick-up tube/screen Custom made long tube N/A headers Polished stainless twin turbo headers (eventually will be on there either as a single or twin set-up) EFI harness, computer, mass air sensor, 24lb injectors, inertia switch relays, etc... T5 trans with Steeda TriAx shifter Mallory Blaster 2 EFI coil New clutch assy "Ford Racing" valve covers I am working on the hydraulic throwout bearing--probably going to be a McLeod. I already have a complete running 5.0 from an '89 Mustang LX 5.0. The aluminum heads and other engine parts will go on the 347 stroker that's coming next. My goal is 350-400 rwhp N/A. If I still want more, I will turbo it. I guess I need to start my own thread huh? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tim si Posted January 20, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 20, 2009 (edited) the first on the list goes into the power steering pump and the next two go to the steering box ,then last the 90s and hose.i dont think youll be able to use the drop mounts.both of my 5.0 quest have stock mounts for a 92 5.0 and i cant even put my fingers between the oil pan and the engine cradle.the 3/4 drop will prob be too muchthat little bit of room also helps the steering linkage clear the starter.also if you want a real nice n/a motor you should go with a comp cam or something more up to date.ive got the e-cam in both of mine and aint crazy about it.its a decent cam but there are alot better out there.it seems to fall off alot before before 5 grand.trust me that cam wont do those heads justice.maybe fly cut the pistons and go with a trick flow stage 2 or an x-cam is still very streetable. EAR-991947ERL -6 TO 5/8-18 POWER STEERING 1 x $5.95 EAR-9919DFHERL -6 AN TO 14MM-1.5 ADAPTER 1 x $11.99 EAR-9919DFJERL -6 AN TO 16MM-1.5 ADAPTER 1 x $11.99 RUS-620421 ENDURA HOSE END #6 -90 DEG $13.95 x3 $41.85 RUS-632610 russel steel braided hose #6 6 ft 31.95 Edited January 20, 2009 by tim si Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
helrazr70 Posted January 20, 2009 Report Share Posted January 20, 2009 the first on the list goes into the power steering pump and the next two go to the steering box ,then last the 90s and hose.i dont think youll be able to use the drop mounts.both of my 5.0 quest have stock mounts for a 92 5.0 and i cant even put my fingers between the oil pan and the engine cradle.the 3/4 drop will prob be too muchthat little bit of room also helps the steering linkage clear the starter.also if you want a real nice n/a motor you should go with a comp cam or something more up to date.ive got the e-cam in both of mine and aint crazy about it.its a decent cam but there are alot better out there.it seems to fall off alot before before 5 grand.trust me that cam wont do those heads justice.maybe fly cut the pistons and go with a trick flow stage 2 or an x-cam is still very streetable. EAR-991947ERL -6 TO 5/8-18 POWER STEERING 1 x $5.95 EAR-9919DFHERL -6 AN TO 14MM-1.5 ADAPTER 1 x $11.99 EAR-9919DFJERL -6 AN TO 16MM-1.5 ADAPTER 1 x $11.99 RUS-620421 ENDURA HOSE END #6 -90 DEG $13.95 x3 $41.85 RUS-632610 russel steel braided hose #6 6 ft 31.95 Dude, you rock! I have a brand new Comp Cams 270H cam and lifter kit that is a little less aggressive, but I will lose my roller lifters. I guess I can make up for it with the roller rockers I will have to run on my Dart heads. I just don't want to have a severe lope. EFI cars with monster cams always seem to have idle issues and run excessively rich all the time. I would like to have power from 5500-6000 since the 347 like to rev better than a basic 302. I will do a little research before all is said and done. There is a guy on the FFR Cobra site that grinds custom cams for 63-65 Cobra replica owners. There are several running 347 strokers and the majority are around 400rwhp and 400rwtq. There a quite a few in the 350-385 range, but I think their cams and heads are holding them back. I have the right heads for my goal, but I need to hammer out the details of the cam and compression. I used the drop mounts on the last 302 car I set up and the oil pan was about 1/4" off the crossmember. I will dig for pics. Too bad I sold that car before I finished it... I will start my own thread so as not to clutter yours anymore. Thanks for the info! You WILL hear from me again! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tim si Posted February 22, 2009 Author Report Share Posted February 22, 2009 i put this in the bs section but ill put it here so it doesnt get lost.maybe get some better video later. http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t126/timtsi/th_P5250047.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boogie Posted February 25, 2009 Report Share Posted February 25, 2009 (edited) my 2yr old won't let me stop watching the vid, he is addicted :ylsuper: Edited February 25, 2009 by boogie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tim si Posted February 26, 2009 Author Report Share Posted February 26, 2009 my 2yr old won't let me stop watching the vid, he is addicted :ylsuper: thanks maybe ill get some better vidoe later on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lionbull Posted April 23, 2009 Report Share Posted April 23, 2009 im just using felpro head gaskets now,but they should be fine for low boost.i never plan on running over 10lbs and if they dont hold ill use better head gaskets next time.the reason i blew the head gasket i think was from the line blowing off the wastegate.theyve all been zip-tied now.h.p. should be around 550-600 at 10lbs.it hasnt been tuned yet so its still running pretty rich with 42lb injectors.just gotta save some money for dyno time and burn a chip for the stock ecu. you gotta respect Ford ECU's Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tim si Posted April 24, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 24, 2009 yes i was real surprised how well its handling those 42lb injectors.alot of the ford guys said its wouldnt even start without a tune but it idles good just on the rich side. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2point3 Posted July 23, 2009 Report Share Posted July 23, 2009 Well i finally got it in Im going to go ahead and break the motor in and work out all the bugs before i put the turbo on.hopefully i can get that done in the next couple weeks after the pipes are built ill have to have them jet coated so itll be down for a few weeks.then its off to the paint shop.the heat has slowed me down alot.i think the index was like 102 today and its miserable without a shop but heres a couple picshttp://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t126/timtsi/ImportedPhotos00031.jpg quick question for you. So the stock ford motor mounts fit right into the motor mounts in the conquest engine bay? Thanks! And looks ggrreeaaattt! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tim si Posted July 23, 2009 Author Report Share Posted July 23, 2009 not exactly,i had to cut slots for the studs to go through.you wouldnt really have to cut slots,you could just cut holes.theres a pic of it on the first page.just make sure you get the holes in the right place or the engine wont be level. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2point3 Posted July 27, 2009 Report Share Posted July 27, 2009 not exactly,i had to cut slots for the studs to go through.you wouldnt really have to cut slots,you could just cut holes.theres a pic of it on the first page.just make sure you get the holes in the right place or the engine wont be level. Ok, i will make sure. What tuning issues have you run into??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tim si Posted July 28, 2009 Author Report Share Posted July 28, 2009 mine still hasnt been tuned yet.the ecu is still running stock settings and a little on the rich side from the 42lb injectors with about 38lb of fuel pressure.i plan to either burn a chip or just go with aftermarket fuel inj. later on but money is tight right now.im still getting around 20mpg though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tim si Posted August 17, 2009 Author Report Share Posted August 17, 2009 took my car to the scales this weekend,full tank of gas=3240 without driver.thats not much more than all original.id like to know on all 4 corners though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5.0Quest Posted October 29, 2009 Report Share Posted October 29, 2009 I have to admit s.c. would be easier and be good on a 5.0 but the better you make the engine breath the more boost you lose,then you have to start changing pullies.the turbo just keeps pushin.I think the turbo will look alot cooler under there.i dont think ill go with an innercooler though.cant find room.hows this to start with? <img src="http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t126/timtsi/newpics012.jpg" border="0" class="linked-image" />Where are the wires to tie in the fuel pump to my mustang harness Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tim si Posted October 29, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 29, 2009 i ran new wire to my fuel pump.i didnt trust the old wire and wanted to run a heavier gage. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BKB94 Posted October 30, 2009 Report Share Posted October 30, 2009 IS there any need to keep the Factory computer in the car if switching to a Ford EEC and wiring overlay? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tim si Posted October 31, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 31, 2009 no you wont need it any more.the heater controls,auto seatbelts and everything else is seperate. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5.0Quest Posted November 22, 2009 Report Share Posted November 22, 2009 took my car to the scales this weekend,full tank of gas=3240 without driver.thats not much more than all original.id like to know on all 4 corners though.Hey tim I'm almost done wiring my car can you snap a pic of your battery and silinoid so I can wire in the electronics for the car not the engine Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tim si Posted November 22, 2009 Author Report Share Posted November 22, 2009 (edited) i just hooked the white wires thst powers everything to the starter silinoid.http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t126/timtsi/PA270039.jpg Edited November 22, 2009 by tim si Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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