4g63 + th350 = my new toy

[Starwolf]

I guess your Throttle position needs to be fixed? 101.6 throttle hehe

 

Im not very megalog smart or anything but i noticed something else...during your free rev your car went from 90 something degrees to 205??

 

Im confused...was this a free rev? lol i dont see how you can build 22psi with free revving unless you have a type of anti lag

[button]

Ryan, it's cool admit it.

 

Starwolf;

yes, I do need to recalibrate my tps.

The coolant temp is due to the extreme heat that was just generated, notice it is delayed slightly, but drops as the water is really moving. I have a 180* tstat in there btw, I need to throw in a 160*.

 

it makes 22psi because of dual ball bearings.

[misterdrifter]

http://ilostmymind.com/upload/camera/87conquest/2011-05-22%2014.31.21.jpg

 

 

^

that should be considered pron...

 

lol

Edited June 13, 2011 by misterdrifter

[button]

I installed the line lock.

I keep meaning to work on my pc mount, but get side tracked, like today:

I went for a quick stroll down the road and noticed at 5k rpm, egt went way up, coolant went up and it seemed to lose power while barely making any boost.

When I pulled into the garage I noticed a glow from under the hood, since I have a 1/2" spacer.

The manifold was solid red.

So I investigate.

with the timing set to fixed in tunerstudio, it idles at the correct timing, but advances with rpm. (it shouldn't)

at 5k rpm, it appears to throw timing 180* off. thus my crazy high boost after 5k, and my glowing manifold.

I'm waiting to see if theres any response on ms3efi forums.... I haven't found anything in the manuals to make a difference.

 

 

sorry, no pictures.

Edited June 17, 2011 by button

[button]

it's picture time folks!

F' that 4g63 trigger disk.

now I'm rockin' a 24/1 trigger disk. so much better.... soo so sooooo much better.

no timing drift, no funky timing flip at 5k rpm. rock solid timing.

http://ilostmymind.com/shop/images/4g63241wheel.jpg

there she is.. I had to open the "1" hole up a little so that it didn't trigger both leds at the same time.

so yeah. i'm stoked now.

[button]

Well, after testing the trans brake yesterday (22psi, 6,000 rpm) I have a noise... a faint knocking noise. I shut her down before it became a real knock and spent last night tearing the motor apart.

compression was 160-160-160-150, so whatever it was it happened on #4, the plug also was oily.

I have the head off and its interesting because on the exhaust manifold, #4 runner had quite a bit of oil in it. looking at the head and pistons, #4 definately consumed oil.

Hopefully the stroker crank and rods are useable.

My first response was a 4 minute long word. f-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------k

I'll make it to the DSM shootout. Even if I have to go stock rebuild.

 

heres how she sits:

http://www.ilostmymind.com/upload/20110710124937.jpg

Edited July 10, 2011 by button

[socjdqcer]

Dude, that sinks bro. Sorry about that. Good luck, keep us posted.

[button]

 

time lapse.

[socjdqcer]

I think I saw where you let out the 4 minute long f............k LOL

[button]

come to find out, the stock water pipe on a 4g63 is 1.39" and the front water outlet is 1.40".

so with the help of some permatex, a hacksaw, and a welder, I now have a front water outlet..... PHINKO.

I used two "water outlet"s from autozone and a stock conquest t-stat so now I have a front t-stat as well.

I'll snap pics tonight, but its looking way better.

 

Also, I had my machinist buddy bore out a t3 housing for my gt3788r so now it bolts right on, no adapter plat, and I'm thinking it will improve spoolup time.

was a .54ar t4, now .82ar t3.

http://ilostmymind.com/upload/camera/87conquest/2011-08-10%2000.20.33.jpghttp://ilostmymind.com/upload/camera/87conquest/2011-08-10%2000.20.17.jpg

http://ilostmymind.com/upload/camera/87conquest/2011-08-10%2000.22.34.jpghttp://ilostmymind.com/upload/camera/87conquest/2011-08-10%2000.22.03.jpghttp://ilostmymind.com/upload/camera/87conquest/2011-08-10%2000.21.48.jpghttp://ilostmymind.com/upload/camera/87conquest/2011-08-10%2000.21.22.jpg

new water pump for later on when i beef up my battery and alternator.

I started it a couple minutes ago, about midnite.. so only for a minute. but it sounded decent again.

Edited August 10, 2011 by button

[kurb_appeal]

Where did you get that trigger disk for the timing? It looks like it bolts into the stock 4g63 CAS housing. Is that the case and if so where can i get one? I am also running MS and would like a better option without adding a sensor and trigger wheel.

[button]

I make them. $20 I'll ship you one.

paypal is button@datacruz.com

 

 

on another note......

clanging noise..

I think it may be a rod, looks like I'm going 2.0. maybe I can get it done before the shootout.....6 days...

 

now for the upside.. it f'kin ripped before it started clanging. 2nd gear was squirly as hell. solid 11.9 afr at 22psi.

the t3 housing barely effected spool. slightly better, but not much.

 

eat your candy children.

http://www.ilostmymind.com/upload/camera/87conquest/2011-08-14%2021.26.51.jpg

the windshield is lexan. keep your opinions on that to yourself. even your "facts".

 

I'm gonna roll it out in the back yard and put it out of my misery if it trys f'kin on me again.

Edited August 20, 2011 by button

[BOHO]

Man...You havn't gotten to enjoy this thing yet....Sucks about the motor. Nice work though.

[TsTKl]

At least I've got company in my never getting to enjoy my 4g63 swap status.

 

At least you've felt your's move under its own power already. I'm technically still behind you in that regaurd.

[slowquest]

I make them. $20 I'll ship you one.

paypal is button@datacruz.com

 

 

I'll take 2, paypal sent

[button]

I should mention I am sold out of 24/1 wheels. I will have more cut asap.

Since it's a simple trigger disk, you will need to "find" your trigger angle. mine was about 80°. the wheel has a little bit of play, but I just rotate it oposite the rotation of the motor, since the motor only rotates one direction, the play in it should not cause any problems.

I do however have t3/t4/t6 flanges, t3/t4 adapters, 38mm flanges, internally gated hx35 outlet flanges, and the coresponding stainless gaskets. $7 gaskets, $10-15 flanges/adapters.

every price I say includes shipping and I eat the paypal fees, so you can pay with credit card, e-check, or paypal.

 

 

on a note about my car.... yeah I know, "who cares, unless it runs." my flexplate/flywheel came loose. As soon as I saw that I thought... I knew it sounded like a loose converter. but, that means the engine has to come out anyways. anyone have any tips on keeping those bolts tight? I had red locktite on them. I did just find out that red locktight has a "break in" requirement. It has to be heated to high temps fairly quickly, then allowed to cool so It forms its bond. I, did not know that, until I tried to remove my converter bolts, after the converter was heated, the locktight was applied, then the converter cooled, then I tried to remove them because I thought I had a rod knock.

Don't get me wrong, I'm still going to pull the pan, and check the rods out for safetys sake.

[button]

rod bearings look fine.

every flywheel bolt was loose. that the torque converter to flywheel bolts, torque converter collar plate bolts, and flywheel to crank bolts.

I cleaned them and re-applied RED locktight and used the torch to put it through the heat cycle. did the same to the torque converter bolts.

I'm not sure how this happened. but I don't think it will be happening again http://www.ilostmymind.com/forums/Smileys/default/evil.gif

[button]

it happened again. just the tq converter bolts. I dont know whats happening. I get about 2 pulls on it, then I get the rattling.

this sucker moves.

one bolt appears to have stripped. that would explain one, but it didnt strip when I was installing it. I'm going to tap them all to 12mm, and use 4g63 flywheel bolts, they are the same length, just bigger shank.

[JeffS]

Still rocking the mx bike hood latch cable?

 

I remember putting that on there years ago.

 

Car looks great by the way, engine bay is totally wild!

 

Probably not a bad idea to go with bigger bolts. Forgive my ignorance, are there any dowels on the TC? Are only the bolts holding it? If you could get dowel(s) installed I think you wouldn't have any more loose bolt problems.

 

Jeff

[button]

hood pins, no more cable. I put a short length of aircraft cable on there with a caribeener as a secondary safety, just in case the hood pins come undone.

I considered dowels as well. I don't think it would be a bad idea. Since it's not making it to the shootout this weekend, I might have my machinist do that for me.

I also just ordered a fluidamper. I have a cosmo racing aluminum pulley on now.

with the stock 4g63 with no balance shafts, I never had this problem. Ive seen some guys have this problem on stroked 360s until they install a fluidamper (or something of the same design).

[button]

DSM shootout was great, It was nice meeting those of you I saw.

 

 

you know you own a race car when you start saying:

"I need to get this to the machinist to beef it up." - torque converter/flexplate

"I have some drawings to send to the laser guy again." -misc gaskets/flanges/trigger disks/plates

"the company will do another production run of the part sept 1st, so I have until then to get the above done." -damper

Edited August 23, 2011 by button

[Bill Hincher]

it happened again. just the tq converter bolts. I dont know whats happening. I get about 2 pulls on it, then I get the rattling.

this sucker moves.

one bolt appears to have stripped. that would explain one, but it didnt strip when I was installing it. I'm going to tap them all to 12mm, and use 4g63 flywheel bolts, they are the same length, just bigger shank.

 

what can I do to help you with the flexplate bolts, you can't keep tightening the bolts over and over, something will come apart sooner or later, PM me if I can help you out

 

Bill

[button]

Bill, I tapped the holes to 12mmx1.25 and used standard dsm flywheel bolts, and as Kiggly, Shep, Buschur, and a couple friends suggested, I tack welded the bolts to the flywheel. So far, I put about 6 miles on it with numerous pulls and havent broke the welds yet.

I also installed the fluidampr. So something helped, just not sure which one.

 

Time to top off the tank and get boost control working.

[Bill Hincher]

well, okay, but you shouldnt have to weld bolts together to keep it from getting loose, you are just transfering the problem from the bolts to somewhere new to break

something is not aligned right and its over working your bolt system, its fighting itself

[button]

I think the fluidampr ultimately is the fixer.

At first they just came loose, then they came loose and I didn't catch it in time and it ripped the holes out.

If we rewind 2 years, I had a stock 2.0 with no balance shafts, and the stock damper, and didn't have a problem running 30psi, so it was making power.

I don't think it's an alignment problem as it is more of a vibration problem.

This motor is a 2.3 (2.0 narrow block with 2.4 crank) with a butchered/knife edged crank and I had an aluminum pulley, no damper. I'm using the same engine and trans mounts as before.

I want to get the tq converter restalled over the winter by IPT (they built it for me), its at about 3300 now, I want to goto about 5000. My launch is lacking currently. Maybe I'll just stepup to your adapter bill, with a standard converter.

 

I should mention that the fluidampr has significantly reduced vibrations at idle alone, my hood doesn't vibrate as much on the hood prop now.

Edited August 28, 2011 by button