So, sorry this is a day late, but the powder coaters took an extra day with the parts I was getting done (no no chi, thorough is good). Anyways, I’ve done a lot of small steps since I last posted on here, I’m sure I’ll forget a lot. The biggest thing for me was getting the cams degreed. I bought a 9 inch degree wheel because effectively I was trying to find a basket filler from a specific website and 9 inches was the largest they had. It actually turned out to be really good as it would have hit more things if I had bought a larger wheel. I was able to use some plumbers tape as an indicator, and mount it easily to the bolt holes in the water pump. The biggest challenge was not having solid lifters. I would highly recommend anyone who is degreeing their cams use solid lifters. I ended up making a spreadsheet and measuring the displacement of the valve and the lifter to find the cam’s position relative to the crank. Exhaust was 8 degrees off, intake was 4. http://s81.photobucket.com/albums/j223/tstkl/conquest/motor/2015-03-13%2019.49.36_zpsu4io9ah4.jpg The most noticeable thing was the intercooler piping and intercooler. The radiator still isn’t bolted down up top, but the intercooler is fairly secure. I was able to weld together the intercooler support bracket, intercooler piping, and intake pipe. The blow off valve will recirculate for now, and the car is fully capable of being run in speed density or standard maf style. This is all “finished” except the intake pipe will eventually be replaced for a larger diameter. http://s81.photobucket.com/albums/j223/tstkl/conquest/motor/2015-03-17%2019.03.29_zpsa6rx1bcu.jpg You’ll notice a lot of other stuff from this picture. I was able to paint the valve cover how I wanted it pretty successfully. It is a black base coat with a green metallic “over spray” and a clear coat over that, all spray painted. I’m expecting the paint to melt off when I get the car running unfortunately, but it looks pretty good for now. Also, you’ll notice the catch can in the back corner. I welded that together myself. It has a special feature that I want to test out. There are three ports on it for the engine. Two on the valve cover and one off the dip stick. The idea is any pressure that builds up in the crank case will go out the dip stick first hopefully. I was also able to get some smaller stuff done. http://s81.photobucket.com/albums/j223/tstkl/conquest/motor/2015-03-17%2019.03.37_zpsmjl2kzbr.jpg Here you can see the “upper” intercooler pipe and bov recirculation tube. The inline thermostat is a work in progress, but you get the idea. The coolant system is very very close to being done, which is great because it has been a fairly large pain up to now. The coil pack mount is also temporary, in the sense that I will convert to coil on plug eventually, although I do very much like the idea of keeping this arrangement, as I have 7 (yes 7) spare oem coil packs somehow. http://s81.photobucket.com/albums/j223/tstkl/conquest/motor/2015-03-17%2019.03.43_zpsim6o0hpp.jpg The “lower” intercooler pipe can be seen here, as well as some other finer details. The green from the valve cover can really be seen here. The idea is, in low lighting the valve cover looks 100% black, but with light the green can be seen. I got the idea from the 2004 STI oem paint, “java black pearl” which uses gold instead of green. http://s81.photobucket.com/albums/j223/tstkl/conquest/motor/2015-03-17%2019.04.30_zps27egolvw.jpg Here you can see the o2 sensor heat sink. Wideband o2 sensors generally don’t like the heat of a turbo, so I made this as a modified version of this idea: http://www.ecmtuning.com/wiki/innovatelc1orlm1install I had the aluminum sheet lying around, as well as the aluminum heat sinks. One look at my company’s welder and it was done. You can also see the clutch system bleeder on the firewall. The original plan was to have it on top of the backside of the transmission so I could perform bleeds from inside the car and thus only need one person, but the shape of the transmission and trans tunnel made that difficult, and honestly, this was too easy to do this way. I know a lot of people have trouble properly bleeding this style slave cylinder, so having a nearly vertical line seemed logical. It should be noted that I am still not happy with the wiring. I am going to re-loom the engine wiring harness, and possibly the chassis wiring harness as well. I plan to get a decent amount done this week as well, as I don’t start my new job until next Monday. I do not have a welder anymore however. I think I will be filling the car up with oil tomorrow and running the oil pump, although that will more so be to check the volume of the oil system with the large oil cooler and such installed. I have a list of just under 40 things I still want to do before firing the car up, so it will still be a while, but it is nice to see so much progress again. Also, those 40 things does not include “put a steering rack in the car”, so even once it is done the car would only be able to theoretically drive forwards and backwards, and wouldn’t be able to turn. I’m pretty concerned about properly braking in the motor, so I’m not too keen on starting it up until everything is perfect. Also that is the largest driving force behind the maf/speed density redundancies. P.S. I'll try and fix the pictures tomorrow.