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interest in billett aluminum rods ? now with pricing


Chad
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I have a set of Aluminum Rods that I bought from a guy in Florida for a engine that I am building. From what he told me there were two sets made. I got one and, I think, someone in Florida got the other.I could'nt tell you who they were made by.They're indentical to the one's in the pictures except for the lettering.

I'm thinking about running these on the street, but I will keep an eye on this thread to see if there's going to be a down side to it.

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This should become a reality in short order. If you are serious about getting in on a set, figure your $$$ out and get ready. I will have a prototype set made at my expence and will start a GP soon after. it will be a stock comaptable part, no other mods required to run this rod.

 

The cost of R&D will be spread evenly over the first GP and I will only charge actual cost of the rods to GP members. After that, they will still be for sale in the future, but at more of a "retail" price so I can make some of my investment back.

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being performance rods, will they be balanced?

 

Yes, I had planned on something, I want them to be "ready to drop in".

 

Either I can balance them with my 1/2 gram scale in sets, or we can have them sent to a shop like DAD who I belive has a 1/10 gram scale. I'd balance them for free, I'm sure he'd need to charge something :lol:

 

Keep in mind, a dolar bill is 9/10 of a gram so I'd be able to get them pretty damn close. :wink:

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i had heard that aluminum rods are for race purposes only because they loose their dimentions over time and need to be replaced in short intervals. is this still the case?

 

a litte OT but i had priced several places for titanium rods and they all pretty much said $500 a rod so $2000 total

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I found the place that made the pitured rod (by sheer luck), he remembered miling the "sakura" in the beams. He will be getting back to me in a day or two about pricing in batches of 5 or more sets. I also asked for pricing on some steel rods, several types.

 

I will also persue having this done though another shop that Burton knows that may be cheaper, only way to know is to do the research and ask for quotes.

 

As for longevity, that is purely a function of use and heat cycles. The harder you push it and the hotter you get them, the shorter their livespan. I had a long conversation with the shop that made these rods (they specialise in rods and are a mainstream race building shop, with metalurigits, engineers etc.). He was pretty canid with aluminum rod benifits and weaknesses. What I took away was this:

 

if you want to make your motor last forever, use a high end steel rod,

 

if you want a high rev motor that has a light weight rotating assembly (more HP) an aluminum rod is a logical choice.

 

if you want both, go wtih a titanium rod, but expect to pay ~$500 a rod.

 

The rod is subjected to extreme bending and compressive forces, and those forces take their tole on the metal structure. Take a piece or aluminm and bend it back and forth, it will eventualy fail. take a piece of steel, it will probably take more bends before it breaks, but will also fail eventualy. Now take a very high quality steel (like a spring steel), it will bend back and forth indefinatly with no fairlure.

 

How long will an aluminum rod last compated to a steel one? it will almost always fail sooner, but always be lighter for a given strength.

 

How many miles does that take? depenes on how hard you push it. Running 800 HP? expect to replace them yearly (not cause they broke but to prevent their failure). runnign 400 HP? maybe every 10,000 miles or 100 hard 1/4 mile passes. running 300 HP? probably they will last foever.

 

This guy has a race mtor that he aid dynos 2300 HP and shifts at 9300 RPM, he replaces his aluminum rods every 20 passes. He also told me he will guarantee thise aluminum rods I have are good for well more than 1000 HP.

 

The "alumium rods are not for street" has to do with how they are used, it's true of those who street motors with more than 100 HP per cylinder, not for those runing mild street/strip motors. If you want to street a 10 second car, you will want to concider routene rebuilds. If you can afford a $15,000 motor, you won't mind replacing your rods periodicaly to prevent catestrophic failure. If you are on a conservitive budget but still want high HP, you are better off with steel, it's holding back yor RPM's and HP, but they will probalby last longer than alumium.

 

For me, I've put ~5000 miles on my car in the last 8 years (most all are very hard miles though), so aluminum is just fine for me, and it's benifits are desirable for my ultimate goals.

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Iif you want to make your motor last forever, use a high end steel rod,

 

This is what I want. Can't afford a rebuild every other year!

 

so aluminum is just fine for me, and it's benifits are desirable for my ultimate goals.

 

Which is what exactly?

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I have a set of Aluminum Rods that I bought from a guy in Florida for a engine that I am building. From what he told me there were two sets made. I got one and, I think, someone in Florida got the other.I could'nt tell you who they were made by.They're indentical to the one's in the pictures except for the lettering.

I'm thinking about running these on the street, but I will keep an eye on this thread to see if there's going to be a down side to it.

 

 

 

Well ,the set of rods you have you got from me a few months back and the ones in the picture where also done some time ago for.

 

Chad if you need a set I can get you as many as you need with no need to do any CAD time or anything , we already have all that info . The rods will be good for 1000HP !!!

 

I only sold my set because I changed what I was doing to my own motor and so the rods would be useless to my new engine build .

 

Let me know If I can help out in this GB if theres and need for the rods . By the way , we have a set of those very rods with about 1000 passes and about 10 years of use with zero issues and the material now-a-days is much cleaner and stronger so we can expect these to be just as good if no better !!!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

regards

 

Frank

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so aluminum is just fine for me, and it's benifits are desirable for my ultimate goals.

 

Which is what exactly?

 

700 HP , with a 8000 RPM shift point and no more than 30 PSI. Gotta lighten things to up and stretch out the power curve to do that.

 

With those abilities, I can make full use of the T56 and some 4.22 gears, 10 second flat 1/4 miles, and 200+ MPH 8)

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we have a set of those very rods with about 1000 passes and about 10 years of use with zero issues and the material now-a-days is much cleaner and stronger so we can expect these to be just as good if no better !!!

 

Frank

 

He told me these rods were probably fine, he is just an honest guy and wants to make sure I/we understand there is a tradeoff.

 

He said these rods were good to past 1000 HP, and the new material he uses now is ~15% stronger.

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we have a set of those very rods with about 1000 passes and about 10 years of use with zero issues and the material now-a-days is much cleaner and stronger so we can expect these to be just as good if no better !!!

 

Frank

 

He told me these rods were probably fine, he is just an honest guy and wants to make sure I/we understand there is a tradeoff.

 

He said these rods were good to past 1000 HP, and the new material he uses now is ~15% stronger.

 

 

 

I understand . The rods Chanito has are beat to hell and back and you can tell they have been in and out of and engine more than once , yet they still hold 1000hp ....

 

 

 

not too bad .

 

Frank

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He is going to be back to me tomorow for sure, he tried to get ahold of me today but I missed his call. I'm guessing $700, maybe less if we can get the GP big enough. I come to this number because were were talking differnet rod types and he refered to about $200 a rod on aluminum setups (which would be $800 non GP pricing).
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5 sets = $547.90 per set

 

20 sets = $480.19 per set

 

40 sets = $397.03 per set

 

The manufacturer is in the process of moving to a new shop, so they can either get these done in a couple of weeks, or will be ~2 months (untill after their move).

 

Again, this is the same rod made for sakura which is proven to hold over 1000 HP, but with a 15% stronger material this time. Longevity of the rod depends on your intended use. As xtremeboost has shown, they will take far more than the manufacturer suggests with regards to cycle time.

 

 

 

By the way , we have a set of those very rods with about 1000 passes and about 10 years of use with zero issues and the material now-a-days is much cleaner and stronger so we can expect these to be just as good if not better !!!

 

Time to move this to the GP forum...

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  • 1 month later...
I have a set of Sakura rods that look very similar to the ones in the pics. I have the titanium version of these rods, and with these rods there is a clearance issue, and modding the block is required. The bottom of the cylinders have to be notched out so that the rod does not come in contact with the cylinder wall. I'm not sure if thats the case with these aluminum rods, just though I would mention it.
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I'm very interested, but can't buy now because my consience would hurt afterward. If I get ahold of some monies, then I'll sign up, but now it's gotta be: school school school. damn education!

 

 

Sweet rods. These, plus forged pistons, a nice huge cam and worked over head and a gt42r would make for a very nice race engine!

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