Magna intake and IC pipes, etc pics

[Boosted_One]

Here's a few pics of the MPI swap and other things I did. You can view the other pics I have up at this link:

 

http://www.clubphoto.com/reward.php?id=830...528403&pwd=

 

 

http://a7.cpimg.com/image/6B/FB/11237227-645e-028001E0-.jpg

 

 

I would have liked blue wires, but function is my goal. Magnecore has a very solid reputation.

 

http://a5.cpimg.com/image/A5/FD/11237285-1495-028001E0-.jpg

 

3" intake pipe and K+N cone filter.

FUSO IC with 2.5" IC  inlets and 2.5" IC pipe all the way thru.

 

http://a1.cpimg.com/image/6F/FB/11237231-4583-028001E0-.jpg

 

 

I would like to have it idleing this weekend.

 

Hope some of these pics help you guys gearing up for it.

[KevinL87tsi]

looks great mike! ;D cant wait to hear how she runs!

[pumpedTSI]

NICE INSTALL JOB MICHAEL....................KUDOS

[KO]

Looks damn good, whew, I know someone looking forward to hearing her fire up and going for a drive!!

[chiplee]

It just looks like it was always meant to be doesn't it.  I mean if that intake had already been designed, what was mitsu thinking?  All the years of frustration are over.  Looks like you cut down a stock upper rad. hose to fit too right.  I'm just curious how you overcame some of the issues, for comparison's sake.  I used to think an engine swap was a big job but I'll take a one for one exchange any day now that I've been through the agony/fun of making something work.  When everything has a place it's just "round peg in round hole" kind of stuff, but this job took a little creativity don't you think?.  It was fun.  Mike are those the HKS couplers?  And if so what do you think of them.  I had to get the yellow from 3 different suppliers to get the sizes I needed and I got three different qualities of course.  the best stuff I got was from hose technics.  Almost a 1/4 of an inch thick.  They said it was made for that guy that races the purple and yellow RX-7/11.  But he no longer used that size so I was getting top quality stuff at the "cheap" internet price of $12 per 3 inch coupler.  So at least my 2.25 ID turbo to IC couplers are good.  The 3 to 2.5 reducer was the worst and I should have known it would be. It was only $6 and it's like paper, super floppy and I don't expect to use it long.  Yellow is very hard to find.  Hehe Black and blue, you should call it the bruiser, well actually I guess it would be the bruised one being black and blue so never mind, can't go around calling it bruised.  Of course we do beat on our cars pretty good though don't we?

[kev]

Looks great Mike!   I can't wait until mine is that far along.  Good luck tuning her in.

 

kev

[kev]

Ok how are you guys changing the color of the "EFI MULTI" plate?   Mine is red which actually matches my red block but blue would be nice too.

 

kev

[chiplee]

the old fashion way I guess.  I stuck masking tape over the whole area and then when to work with an exacto knife cutting out the tape where I wanted it to be yellow.  I was left with pretty well masked letters so I just painted it and pealed the tape when it was dry.  I used engine enamel for the heat under there, it's a little brighter than my san marino yellow but I think it's ok under the hood.  The daytona yellow actually fades a bit after it gets hot so it ends up pretty close.

[kev]

Oh ok.  I figured that is what you did but I guess there was a possibility that you found a place that made them in several colors.  Fat chance, huh?  Lol.  I will probably just leave mine red, it will match the engine still and all my vacuum lines are red as well.  Also the original paint will probably hold up longer.

 

Thanks,

kev

[Boosted_One]

Thanks for the compliments guys, I appreciate it.

 

 

Now Chip, I don't know what the hell MItsu was thinking either! It looks like it was in there from the get go. Could you imagine a MPI Starion Stock?!?!

 

As far as the couplings I got them from www.bakerprecision.com but they only have red, blue and black. They are 1/4" thick and reinforced, even the reducers are thick and strong.

 

The radiator hose is from ?? I went to Advance auto and the guy let me in the back so I searched every hose they had, many will fit perfect.

 

This was a lot of work, a lot of swearing but this is the fun part. I dislike tuning a car on every stoplight but that's all in the scope of setting up a custom FI system.

 

Oh ya, Glenn painted mine for me He said he painted it black like my car so I said alright cool!

 

This intake is a real quality piece. Lots of work converting it over to the state Glenn has done with them. Great job there Glen

 

If you wanna talk or compare things lemme know Chip

[Lizzord30]

Thanks for the compliments guys, I appreciate it.

 

 

Now Chip, I don't know what the hell MItsu was thinking either! It looks like it was in there from the get go. Could you imagine a MPI Starion Stock?!?!

Well i cant imagine it, SO I AM DOING IT, kind of. We will see what a good running, free mods quest will do if it had MPI stock. And looking at them, man it really fits the car, looks sweet btw Mike. I am pretty sure the magna with this MPI cam out in 90 and was made though 94 or 95 (down under of corse) BTW the magna was making 133 HP from Na 2.6 with mpi. compared to the about 100 the na carb 2.6 was making, so quest 188 + 33 = 220hp, mimum with mpi quest. RPW Segest about a 50% hp gain with MPI 188 x 1.5 = 282hp, hmm Nice (i think that the 50% gain is a little on the high side but we will see).

How many other cars have such nice cemetry as a MPI large turbo Quest. Idea of having plenum, engine, Large turbo Lined up with a Large IC in the front), Just looks like its ment to be.

[87quest_stv]

ok another Question.. where'd you get those ic pipes? they ARE 2.5 in right?.. a link to the web site would be appreciated.. also what sizes and bends you got.. just making a list of everything i need to complete my project.. getting some ins money here in a week and at that time i will be installing my mpi as well. could you make a list of things you needed to complete this.. like msd part#'s ic pipes sizes bends etc. hoses vacuum. i'll be using the hawk ec21 system with a map sensor.  i appreciate the insight,, hrm looking at the picture . i also guess i ened to know what extra vacuum holes will be needed in the tb. what size to drill etc. your pcv valve . where does that hook up? . also did you get rid of the little canitster that attached to the airbox? if so are you using a krankvent system?, just been going over this in my head. not sure how to hook things up

[Boosted_One]

I got my pipes from JC Whitney. They are 2.5" pipes also.

http://www.jcwhitney.com/product.jhtml?CATID=14721

 

Unfortunately the complete list of what pipes I used won't help most people because I have a Fuso intercooler which makes the piping arrangments completely different than what the stock IC would need.

 

You should be able to use all 90 and 180 degree bends to make what you need.

 

You need to drill and tap a few vacuum ports. Something like this:

 

http://a5.cpimg.com/image/BD/06/11237565-43a5-028001E0-.jpg

 

I put 2 ports  BEFORE the butterfly. I  also put 2 more ports behind the throttle plate in addition to a 3/8" (or 5/16" don't remember) port for the Krankvent

[87quest_stv]

yeah that was my other question. your i/c didnt look stock. the one you have how much was it and where did you get it? thanks again for you input. i am really excited to get this in.  and what is that black hose that is to the right of the map sensor.. is one of the holes your drilled and tapped? thanks again

steve

[chiplee]

87quest_stv

 

I don't know if this will help but i'll be updating it occationally, you actually only need 1 45degree bend and 1 U bend from burns or whoever, I bought two 45s and never used the second one.  Not sure what you'll need for the turbo to intercooler section because I had 2.25in hardpipes for that already.  Hope it helps

http://www.geocities.com/chip_lee_iii/mpiinstall.html

and if you're using the Hawk ECU replayse the "mipinstall" with "Hawkinstall" case sensitive,  and you'll see some stuff about that.

[87quest_stv]

sweet, thats some good info. i appreciate it.. i cant wait to get my car hooked up ;D

i'll be getting some ins money the end of this next week.. so no holds bar on this hting,, any suggestions on what size turbo to get? i was thinking maybe a 19c. but have mixed emotions. would a 20g be btter? what about t3/t4?. basically i want fast spoolup and also a turbo that can handle about 18 psi maybe 20.also there was some discussion on another board about the wastegate on the turbo itself not being strong enough to hold the boost.. is an external waste gate going to be needed? if so then i will need a new exhaust manif9old correct? any thoughts would be appreciated

[chiplee]

I think you can expect to have the same problems Darryl had with the stock TD05 exhaust housing.  It's not really about the wastegate not being strong enough to hold the boost, it's more about the wastegate opening being too small to bypass enough air to keep boost under control.  I ported mine to 25mm so I'll be able to tell you very soon if that is enough to control boost or if we'll need an external wastegate.  About turbo size, I don't think my previous setup ever let me realize the potential of the 20g, but if I did then I'm tired of the 20g already so I'd say tenatively, go for the 20g and get the big one like Mike has.  Forced performance:http://www.forcedperformance.net/sc_turbo.htm has the TD06 20g for $725, and I would think it would have a bigger wastegate but Mike K would know for sure.  Basically you can wait to see if the ported stock wastegate will work or you can just go all out and go straight to an aftermarket header with external wastegate flange and the LARGE turbo of your choice, flow is going to make these big turbos spool, and the magna will be all about flow.  Plus there's always a 50 shot to get you out of the hole, hehe.

[Quest4Power]

please please please post some dyno numbers when you get it tuned!  i want to know if i'm doing something good or wasting my time.

[87quest_stv]

anything that is going to flow a whole lot more air . isnt a waste of time.the stock set up is decent for the run of the mill perfermance. but the mpi is the way to go if you want something that was meant to be  ;D

[88BlueTSiquest]

All these pics of these beautiful MPI conversions are definately making me want to do one someday. Money, and the fact it's a daily driver for now are the only things keeping me from making the plans right now.....

 

 

I agree, one of you guys really needs to post some dyno results when done. I'd sure love to see what kind of performance gains were accomplished by simply(take that lightly   ) bolting on MPI.

[kev]

Did you try to fire her up yet Mike?

 

kev

[Boosted_One]

Well I tried getting her going and nope. I got a no spark situation.

 

I sent the ECU back to SDS last week assuming it wasn't triggereing the ignition. Well it is doing its job. Glad I did send it back because I also had it rechipped with the new software.

 

I believe my MSD6A box is not communicating with the trigger pulse.SDS seems to agree also. SDS had a 6A hooked up to my ECU and it fires fine inhouse. I have never fired my MSD with the white wire so for all I know the MSD could have been bad all along. I was using the magnetic pick up when I had it running on the TBI.

 

SO... that's where I am. I got it all ready to go here now and no spark...yet...

 

I am waiting for a new MSD6A box and if that ain't it I would be surprised as EVERY hook up is exact to the T.

[kev]

Cool.  Hopefully it is just that MSD box.  Good luck.  Where did you order the MSD from?  Is there a warranty on it?  

 

kev

[chiplee]

Mike have you made absolutely sure the distributor was wired correctly, do you even have a distributor anymore?  I know we have different management but I too had no spark when I first wired everything up and it was because the distributor was wired wrong.  I was told to wire it exactly opposite the way it needed to be wired. So I had hot to ground and ground to hot and signal wires reversed, also my dizzy has a hall effect sensor but to make it work you have to tell the computer it's a reluctor type and run a 1K ohm resistor between the positive wire and the signal wire.  I assume you're using the stock distributor with only three wires so the signal switch is less likely.  But because mine was wired wrong the coil and ignition module got very hot and it burned up my first ignition module.  Luckily when I got it I got a spare because it was so cheap, but when I switched the ignition module and switched the signal wire I got all the spark I needed.  Do you get an occational spark? If so I bet you're using a 4 wire dizzy and the signal wire is wrong.  And just to be safe, I know you wouldn't make this mistake but I did so I've got to ask because it was another reason I didn't get spark and it really proves my ignorance.  Is the switched 12v power supply to your coil and ecu powered when the switch is in the start position and in the run position.  I had used a switched 12v that only had power in run so you can imagine what happened when I turned the key.  As a test, I assume also that you're using relays on the fuel pump and ecu, try running a fused wire from batt pos straight to the power wire to your ecu.  Again, I know these are pretty common tests but they were no where near common to me before my install so it's worth at least telling you.  If you've done it all and are convinced it's the 6A then I don't know what to say.  I could mail you a known working 6A that I have but I plan to use it so it would just be for testing purposes and you know if whatever burned up yours is still wired the same way then mine is sure to fry as well.   Here's a pic of the ignition module in my car that completely replaces the factory ignitor. http://www.geocities.com/chip_lee_iii/ignitors.html

[Boosted_One]

Thanbks for the tips Chip.

 

It seems like our systems are different. I still use the distributor but you don't use any connections off the distributor because the system is now getting the spark and fuel trigger signals from the hall sensor. The sensor sends back the info to the SDS and the SDS sends a ground trigger to the FI and the igntion. So no distributor (magnetic pick up) wires are used.

 

The SDS does send a trigger. I tested this on a 12V FI. I put one end to 12V the other to the SDS trigger wire. Every time the magnets passed the hall sensor the injector would open. Now if it can ground out the injector it surely should be grounding out the MSD.

 

I do have power at the original coil + wire when in start position. The MSD6 uses the original coil + wire as it's hookup to the MSD thin red switched 12V source. I get no spark. But when you manually test the MSD it will spark.

 

I don't see how anything fried, it just didn;t work from the get go. Like I said I ran the MSD box on magnetic pickup (green/purple wires) before the swap and it ran great. Now triggering with the white wire it hasn't worked.

 

Its got me scratching my head.  :-/