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Differential Cooler


Convette
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if you have a pump for a dry sump system, or electric hydraulic pump, seeing as you wont have it on until your on the track, you could put a sensor in the diff for temp activation, have the pump kick on at a temperature, once its hot gear oil is as thin as oil

 

Thats a great idea... I need to get a temp sensor in there for sure..

 

I think the fins + using some type of duct to direct air flow over the diff is probably a really good way of going about it. Wouldn't cost you much either.

 

If on top of that you use some type of coating like what was suggested I'd bet that would get you where you want to be.

 

I got an extra cover, I'm going to hack it up and see what I can come up with.

 

You are pretty much at the power limit of the gear set anyway. So I would suggest something cheep and simple like the fins and more capacity. What ratio do you run? You have a temp sender tapped in to the case?

 

Everything is stock, (3.54) I dont have temp sensor yet, but will soon.

 

If i am not mistaken,s13 and s14 all come with std oil pump and cooler for their rear diff..

Why don't you try and find something from a pick and pull yard?

I don't think it can get cheaper than that and if you manage to find a car and take out the whole assembly,thigs would be a lot easier...

You will see how it works and make it happen easilly in you diff

Not standard on any 240's, but there are plenty of after market covers with fins and larger capacity. I'm going to do some junk yard scavenging very soon.

 

Im sure your exhaust routing isnt helpful. What condition are the clutches in? If they are allowing excessive slippage they're not helping the temp issue either.

A lot of guys that race manual trans cars use Tilton pumps. They have like 1-2hr duty cycles so it would be perfect for your setup. I was gonna use one on my R154 but never got around to it. Way F'n easier than a Diff swap. Then just add a stock SQ oil cooler in there.

 

yeah, most likely I'll prolly end up doing a Tilton pump system with a proper cooler. For now, I'm gonna do what I can on the cheap. I'm not interested at all in doing a diff swap, but as power increases, I may have no choice. One of my biggest concerns is the torque tube splines as they are taking a beating. I have too much money into my driveshaft to change anything now.

 

maybe wrapping the exhaust, and shielding off the diff, and with fins on the cover. then building a couple ducts to help move the air from under the car up across the diff.. that may be just enough to get you through it without spending a load of money and may work great.. you could also maybe look into some brake cooling blowers which can be had failry cheap, to help push air across the diff itself.

 

exhaust wrap is in the mail. I'm def going to what I can for free before I spend money on this.

I can't imagine you'd need heavy duty AN fittings for this application, it most likely would be low pressure, no? Could probably get away with barbed fittings and hose clamps on rubber line, so long as there aren't rules requiring specific fitting and hose material types.

 

A stock SQ oil cooler would be plenty I'm sure. Smaller coolers from snowmobiles and motorcycles would likely work as well, and would take up virtually no space at all.

 

Have you flat bottomed that thing yet? a NACA duct in the flat bottom with a duct would be killer.

 

Edit:

$40 on ebay, 80's Honda CB1000 oil cooler.

http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/NjAwWDgwMA==/z/c0oAAOSwRLZUBj2D/$_57.JPG?set_id=880000500F`

 

Great find, yeah it will be all low pressure. I'm working on flatting the bottom this weekend actually, should have no problem getting air to it.

 

Do any of the truck rear differential rear covers fit? Are any of them larger capacity?

 

Maybe you can make a rear cover that will handle more gear oil and at the same add some waffles to it for cooling. Run some sort of scoop under the diff to channel air to the back cover?

 

I'm going to see what I do. I have no idea if any other covers would work.. I can take the super expensive route, scan the diff cover, build what I want digitally, 5 axis cnc it out with provisions for a cooler....but I'm poor and dont want to spend the money on a 12x12" block of aluminium... lol

 

look for a 1991 1992 GSXR 1100 oil cooler

they were oil cooled and have a big oil cooler

 

checking now!

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John, exactly what kinda temps are you generating? I'm envisioning something like a p/s pump mounted next to your fuel cell driven by an elec. motor controlled by temp sensor after it goes thru some type of cooler to your diff. w/fittings @ 7 & 1 o'clock respectively. just a hopefully helpful thought. W.
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I'm surprised you haven't considered some aero ducting more... You should be able to duct some air up past the diff and then out the back of your diffuser. It would be the lightest option I think. Only pain would be adding surface area to the diff for cooling, but ahhhhh yeah if you give a mouse a cookie.

 

I think an electric pump mounted under the trunk is going to be the best solution here.

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John, I think you are on the right track with a pump and external cooler. Sure, moving air and a finned cover might help, but when you heat soak a chunk of cast iron as large as the diff, warm air moving around the exterior of it probably won't cut it. Especially if you are heating it with the exhaust. Just my opinion. More capacity and keeping the oil moving through a small cooler will do wonders for cooling the gear. There are several local places that NASCAR teams sell off their used parts to. They are usually stuff that has plenty of life left, but may have become outdated because something lighter or newer came out. A lot of teams will only use parts once and then sell it. So, you might save some money looking for something used. I can check with our parts guys Monday at work to see if we have any used gear pumps or coolers etc. for sale. To be honest, I don't even know if we still run an external pump or if everything is internal now. Been awhile since I had to wrench on the cars, they keep me in the fab shop and carbon shop for the majority of my time these days. In the meantime, here are a couple of other places that you can check.

 

http://www.roushyatesparts.com/Used-Racing-Products-s/108.htm

http://www.circletracksupply.com/used-nascar-parts-and-used-race-parts/

http://2ndchanceraceparts.com

http://www.davejensensouth.com/Products/Products.html

 

Hope that helps.

 

BC_99

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If you go this route, obviously put the pickup at bottom of diff, but the return I would probably place on top, pouring on the ring and clutch pack

On one additional note, add a in line screen or filter, hot gear oil should pass easy, and wouldnt hurt to catch clutch particles, and add a magnet one the filter

 

Thats exactly what I'm going to do. Thanks!

 

John, exactly what kinda temps are you generating? I'm envisioning something like a p/s pump mounted next to your fuel cell driven by an elec. motor controlled by temp sensor after it goes thru some type of cooler to your diff. w/fittings @ 7 & 1 o'clock respectively. just a hopefully helpful thought. W.

 

I keep boiling the axle grease and blowing off the boots...so..hot! No need to do a motor to a pump, just more moving parts. The electric pumps are proven and I dont need to use it all the time. My biggest issue is space under the car, so I got to see where things are going to fit...

 

I'm surprised you haven't considered some aero ducting more... You should be able to duct some air up past the diff and then out the back of your diffuser. It would be the lightest option I think. Only pain would be adding surface area to the diff for cooling, but ahhhhh yeah if you give a mouse a cookie.

 

I think an electric pump mounted under the trunk is going to be the best solution here.

 

Same issue really....I need to get the exhaust outta there, once everything is heat soaked, its really really hard to get it to cool down. With the way our diffs are mounted, a larger cover and or fins is going to be almost no help..

 

John, I think you are on the right track with a pump and external cooler. Sure, moving air and a finned cover might help, but when you heat soak a chunk of cast iron as large as the diff, warm air moving around the exterior of it probably won't cut it. Especially if you are heating it with the exhaust. Just my opinion. More capacity and keeping the oil moving through a small cooler will do wonders for cooling the gear. There are several local places that NASCAR teams sell off their used parts to. They are usually stuff that has plenty of life left, but may have become outdated because something lighter or newer came out. A lot of teams will only use parts once and then sell it. So, you might save some money looking for something used. I can check with our parts guys Monday at work to see if we have any used gear pumps or coolers etc. for sale. To be honest, I don't even know if we still run an external pump or if everything is internal now. Been awhile since I had to wrench on the cars, they keep me in the fab shop and carbon shop for the majority of my time these days. In the meantime, here are a couple of other places that you can check.

 

http://www.roushyate...ducts-s/108.htm

http://www.circletra...sed-race-parts/

http://2ndchanceraceparts.com

http://www.davejense...s/Products.html

 

Hope that helps.

 

BC_99

 

Huge help Britt! Thanks, I was going to write about any used parts a while back. Please let me know if you guys have anything available that I might be able to use. Thanks again!

 

There is a guy on facebook that put an entire s13 subfamily under his starion

 

yeah anything possible, but I have too much invested in this setup right now. If I swap to anything its going to be something way stronger than a 240 set up.

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Lol. It's odd actually.. its only happening in one side, but it's happened 3 times.. the driver side inner cv.. passenger side is fine...I'm writing it off as heat transferring from the diff out...what side is the ring gear on? Also, does any one have pics of the starion race car rear? I know they had coolers in the rear of the car..was it in the wing..? Can't remember Edited by Convette
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not too late to run a 5'' side ex... :D

http://i778.photobucket.com/albums/yy68/jaybirdskate/z11_zpsbjgou9kv.jpg

http://i778.photobucket.com/albums/yy68/jaybirdskate/z13_zpsoeeadgwl.jpg

 

Just when I thought our diff's where bullet proof.

Now we know their limit..BIG TIRES...Thank you for sharing I hope this dont put you out of the race.

 

Even with a cooler, do you think our ring gear is just too small for all that friction?

I hope you figure it out.

Edited by freebird
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not too late to run a 5'' side ex... :D

 

Just when I thought our diff's where bullet proof.

Now we know their limit..BIG TIRES...Thank you for sharing I hope this dont put you out of the race.

 

Even with a cooler, do you think our ring gear is just too small for all that friction?

I hope you figure it out.

 

I still have faith in the stock rear... it just needs some help. I will have to change the exhaust at some point..which will involve cutting the rear floor pans out.. not ready to take that on just yet...

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This looks like a pretty compact, yet practical setup. Its on a R34 Skyline. Not sure the details on the pump but none the less, you get the idea.

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y178/honda9krpm/IMG_5726.jpg

Edited by NotStock88
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Lol. It's odd actually.. its only happening in one side, but it's happened 3 times.. the driver side inner cv.. passenger side is fine...I'm writing it off as heat transferring from the diff out...what side is the ring gear on? Also, does any one have pics of the starion race car rear? I know they had coolers in the rear of the car..was it in the wing..? Can't remember

 

Makes me think you should rebuild the c/v's with different grease like Redline c/v 2. The c/v joint has a great potential for heat from friction. You could rebuild just that one joint and see if it heats up again or swap axles as a diagnosis

 

The inner c/v axle mates into the side gear, so if it is hot it would have to get that heat from the side gear or the differential case or the bearing the case spins on or last but not least the friction disks and plates on that side of the LSD.

 

Ring gear is on the drivers side.If your heat is coming from the ring and pinion contact; pinion would also deliver heat to the diff of the diff and you would see heat back there too...

 

In theory the LSD diff could get hotter on one side from not having enough reaction force to the plates and disk to lock them up.So the case inside would be spinning a lot and the side gear would not spin with it causing heat on that side. Could be worn or you could be driving on slick surfaces or doing sick burnouts all the time. But if the oil is clean then the plates and disk are probably good.

 

I just think a cooler may not be the right fix and thinking through how the LSD works leads me to other potential causes for the heat.

 

Can you let it get warm on a short run, then get it up on an hoist and heat gun it at different spots?

Edited by JohnnyWadd
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Just another random thought inspired by my computer; If its getting hotter than the engine coolant, you could piggyback onto that system. Build a little heat exchange reservoir onto the diff cover. Put an inlet and outlet nipple onto it and run lines up to the heater core. You could even put a valve in the lines and turn it on/off for track days. Whole thing might cost ~$50

 

http://www.starquestclub.com/forum/uploads/gallery/album_1144/gallery_2764_1144_222434.jpg

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