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Gas in oil


87TSiStock
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Just got my car running this last 2 weeks and have only put 60 miles on it since it sat last winter after injector seals went bad. I changed the oil twice since. I went to a Maf-t and since I've done this and just checked my oil today it was terribly thin and smelled like gas. On my wideband it idles around 13 but when I'm at a constant cruising speed and no boost it sits at 10 to 10.8 I don't know if that has anything to do with it since I've never seen wideband readings before (first car I've owned with a turbo an wideband) but any help on why there is quite a bit of as in my oil would be awesome
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You could also have a leaking injector or injectors. When the injectors in the top hat leak it runs right down the TB through the head right into the cylinders and eventually into the oil pan thinning out your oil. But, as already mentioned, your AFR's are off.
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MAF-T tuning can be tricky, and just because you zero out the MAF settings doesn't mean the car will run the same way it did without the MAF-T. You're obviously running way too rich and fuel is getting past the rings. Before you do anything else, drain the oil and change the filter because the lubricating properties of the oil are compromised once gas gets into it. DON'T RUN IT UNTIL YOU CHANGE IT.

 

I struggled with finding the best A/F balance on boost, my car ran way rich on boost but normal on cruise and through a lot of tuning I found that I had to lean it way down at WOT to keep the AFR's where they need to be. (I am running Bosch injectors though.)

 

With my MAF-T and using a wideband AFR gauge, the car will idle in the 13-14 range, and at cruise it should bounce around but should not ever get richer than 13-12. On boost, the best place to have the AFR's is in the 12's usually. Richer than that and the car's performance will suffer. Also consider that with a car that's dumping fuel like yours, the O2 sensor can be damaged when fuel gets on it.

 

Keep track of what you've done tuning -wise with this chart: MAFT TUNING CHART

 

http://waste-nj.com/d2/maf%20chart_.jpg

Edited by Fuze
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^^^ If that's the case, the MAF-T might not be hooked up correctly and might not be altering the signal from the MAS. An easy test is to idle the car, and lean out the idle knob a couple notches and listen to the motor/watch the tach, the revs should drop. If they do, try it the other direction a couple notches and the idle should climb. If it does, the MAF seems to be working. If nothing happens, something is wrong with it or the hookup.

 

This is the MAF-T settings thread, it may help you get the settings right, or inform your tuning.

 

MAFT SETTINGS THEAD

Edited by Fuze
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Well i started tuning again its going pretty well so far except 20 min into it the coolant feed hose broke so I i am making a new hose but will be tuning tomorrow again :) i did get idle set and it sits at 14.5-15.6 and mid throttle was at 12 but again had to stop tuning
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okay so tuning going great until wot...

idle-14.5

mid-12.5-13.2

wot-15

but i notice my stock boost gauge doesn't show boost coming on :unsure: it works for vacuum but not boost my real boost gauge isnt really showing it either but im still trying to get wot at around 12 but its fighting back a little and it doesnt seem like boost is coming on at all now. im a little concerned

my setting on the translator are aux-E idle-3 mid-9 wot-7

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Better figure out if you have boost or not, the mechanical gauge is the one to trust as the stock gauge is just an ECU calculation. Check for boost leaks.
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Just tuned the car again and its running PERFECT. Dont know what was going on yesterday but it is amazing today. Good boost good readings all the way through handling good cant be happier :D

Final Tune

AUX-E

IDLE-3 (13.5)

MID-D (13.2-14.50

WOT-8 (11-13)

Thanks everyone for their imputes and guiding me

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Glad you got it smoothed out. Record your setting and keep a chart in the glove box because you will have to make changes as the temperature drops or goes up significantly to keep it in the sweet spot.
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