302ci Posted August 30, 2013 Report Share Posted August 30, 2013 Ok as title says I replaced my old coil with a new MSD Blaster 2 to try to fix problem but no dice.it runs great while cold and sitting over night. But after it warms up the coil is so hot you cant touch it at all. Would this cause my dieing at idle? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ucw458 Posted August 30, 2013 Report Share Posted August 30, 2013 Use a volt meter to see if the coil has a short when the engine cuts out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shelby Posted August 30, 2013 Report Share Posted August 30, 2013 sounds like you have a 6 volt coil on a 12 volt system Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
302ci Posted August 30, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 30, 2013 Ok guy told me it could be my tps also. Only dies at idle Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
302ci Posted August 30, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 30, 2013 I keep forgetting toads another symptom. It runs fine with throttle pressed it and driving just slight bucking. But at idle I have to keep pedal pressed and it then has idle surge....this is only when it warms up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JAinsworth Posted August 30, 2013 Report Share Posted August 30, 2013 I'd do the tps/isc test/reset. The surge comes from a bad ISC. Unplug the ISC and start the car and see if the surge goes away when warm. Make sure your throttle cable has slack in it also.Jimmy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shelby Posted August 31, 2013 Report Share Posted August 31, 2013 sounds like you have a 6 volt coil on a 12 volt system if on the coil or packageing it says use a ballist resistor with this coil ,,you have the wrong coil ,coils that use a ballist resistor is a 6-7 volt coil , and will over heat if you put 12 volts to them Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StarquestRescue Posted August 31, 2013 Report Share Posted August 31, 2013 (edited) if on the coil or packageing it says use a ballist resistor with this coil ,,you have the wrong coil ,coils that use a ballist resistor is a 6-7 volt coil , and will over heat if you put 12 volts to themI thought the car model dictated the use of a resister?. like used to keeps the points from burning up on say an old mopar? http://www.msdignition.com/Products/Coils/Stock_Replacement/8202_-_Blaster_2_Coil_Hi-Performance.aspx Edited August 31, 2013 by StarquestRescue Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shelby Posted September 2, 2013 Report Share Posted September 2, 2013 no sir the Conquest uses full 12 volt ign power NO ballist,,not so for the D50 and a few others with a 2.6 but we have a full 12 volt igniter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
302ci Posted September 2, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 2, 2013 Ok my car is over charging right now its charging at 14v im thinking that I'd causing coil to over heat. Trying to figure that out now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
302ci Posted September 2, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 2, 2013 Also when it'd warm and running right there is a grinding/ticking sound coming from the TPS. But the. It wants to die the sound isn't there until I keep foot on the gas causing the surge and when the surge hits its peak it starts grinding then stops when goes back down. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scott87star Posted September 2, 2013 Report Share Posted September 2, 2013 14 volts will not overheat the coil if its the correct coil, too much dwell will overheat the coil. How are you hearing this grinding/ticking sound from the TPS? The only movement in the TPS is when the throttle plate is moving, its job is to tell the ECU the throttle plate is moving and it does its job silently. Are you sure you've correctly identified the TPS? Are you confusing that with the ISC? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
302ci Posted September 2, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 2, 2013 I don't.know why it is its one of the two this car s already giving me hell to where I cant do basic maintenance because of the dieing issue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
302ci Posted September 2, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 2, 2013 Ok another strange thing if I don't let the car sit for more than 3 or 4 mins when its warm it will continue to run great. But longer than that it runs bad. And coil is not hot anymore just engine heat warming it up so im guessing bad isc? Im gonna try the reset when I get back from the field. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StarquestRescue Posted September 2, 2013 Report Share Posted September 2, 2013 Yes, you must determine if the isc is working and if so if the adjustments like the throttle cable slack and if the fixed sas screw is set correctly so the idle switch trips, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shelby Posted September 3, 2013 Report Share Posted September 3, 2013 a broken wire in the MPS sensor connector will cause the isc motor to run , run, run,, trying to find the proper voltage signal ,understanding how the TPS< ISC AND MPS all work to gather will be a huge help in finding your problem 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
302ci Posted September 5, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 5, 2013 I am 100% sure my ISC needs adjusting/replaced. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shelby Posted September 8, 2013 Report Share Posted September 8, 2013 you need to understand exactly what the ISC's job is , it's only funtion is to move the MPS so the ecu can find the MPS voltage it is looking for ,,thats it ,,if the motor on the ISC is runing ,,,its runing continously because the ecu can't find the right MPS voltage signal ,, that all it does,, a short chaptor inthe frt of the fuel chaptor explains how and why these ISC motors run Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
302ci Posted October 10, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 10, 2013 Ok so problem got so bad that at wouldn't idle wen cold. Then it hit me check the injector clips. I checked them switched the primary and secondary clips and it idles 1000% better. I got car to normal operating temp now and going to start it when its warm and see if it still dies. Im thinking the old owner got clips mixed up whn he/she put a new clip on one of the clips and that caused my problem I hope anyways. Ill update as soon as I let car sit for a while. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caliber308 Posted October 11, 2013 Report Share Posted October 11, 2013 (edited) Ok so problem got so bad that at wouldn't idle wen cold. Then it hit me check the injector clips. I checked them switched the primary and secondary clips and it idles 1000% better. I got car to normal operating temp now and going to start it when its warm and see if it still dies. Im thinking the old owner got clips mixed up whn he/she put a new clip on one of the clips and that caused my problem I hope anyways. Ill update as soon as I let car sit for a while. Take the car up to 2500 to 3000 rpms. (Secondary Fuel Injector comes in). That will tell you real quick if the Injector Clips are connected properly. It sounds like your ISC Adjusting Screw is out of whack, or your ISC is shot. Idling up and down could be caused by the ISC Nose Switch not making contact with the free lever. Bill Edited October 11, 2013 by Caliber308 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
302ci Posted October 11, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 11, 2013 After the switch it runs wayyyy better. Doesn't die anymore, or run herky jerky til about 3200 rpm so my secondary injector is more or less shot. It my pig tail is bad on it which is what I think. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
importwarrior Posted October 11, 2013 Report Share Posted October 11, 2013 (edited) when i put in new injector clips, i cut the wires to solder the leads together.once the wire was cut and stripped i notice the copper was green. I cut thewire down a little more and still green wires. i ended up cutting about 8 to 10inches down total to replace the bad wires for each injector. dont know how the car ran. Edited October 11, 2013 by importwarrior Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caliber308 Posted October 11, 2013 Report Share Posted October 11, 2013 when i put in new injector clips, i cut the wires to solder the leads together.once the wire was cut and stripped i notice the copper was green. I cut thewire down a little more and still green wires. i ended up cutting about 8 to 10inches down total to replace the bad wires for each injector. dont know how the car ran. Ditto. There is a excellent write up in the FAQ Section on installing New Injector Clips. Bill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
302ci Posted October 11, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 11, 2013 One clip was already new one was green for about 5 inches got it on idles great and goes past 3k rpm when secondary kicks in and keeps going. But when im just driving normal it spits and sputters then starts normal driving after a few seconds or if i lift off throttle and slam my foot down. Idk what this could be maybe my primary injector is clogged/bad or both. What is the best place to get some bigger replacements? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shelby Posted October 12, 2013 Report Share Posted October 12, 2013 ok the best thing for you to do right now is to open the FSM, to chapter 14 fuel ,start on page 14-2 and start reading and looking at the pictures carefully look them over read all the pages to page # 14-23 , it not that much reading take you maybe 10 minutes the first time thru but it really help to read thru it several times once you understand what each part does you will have a better idea of how to find and cure your problem and you'll better understand what guys are telling you it's really a very simple system Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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