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Runs for a few seconds then dies repeats over and over RESOLVED!!!


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We started the car cold.

It started right up no problem.

Unhooked secondary injector.

car didn't change idle at all

Was the same.

Turned car off.

I put the primary injector clip on secondary injector. Car woul not start with out the gas pedal being pressed open.

Put it back to stock and car started fine.

Unhooked secondary injector.

And unplugged mas sensor.

Car started but ruff idle.

Plugged in maf it cleared up

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just some information i ran across thought it might help.

this is about some one asking if you can run with out the 02 connected,

and the effects of a heated 02 being used with our cars.

 

Indiana,

You'll burn lots of gas that's for sure. The ECU will never know the car has warmed up as with this ECU its the 02 being up to temperature that tells the ECU to go into closed loop to start adjusting the fuel mix NOT the CTS. The CTS on some cars tells the ECU when its heated up but this ECU is different, as you know, from most other cars. The CTS on this one is for cold enrichment that's why if you think its "bad" just unplug it because its not to be doing anything after you are warmed up anyway. If you got a heated 02 this put the warm up enrichment into the closed loop mode so your car might not run well when cold since the 02 is already hot and it tells the ECU this. It may be true that for cars with heated 02s the CTS is pretty much useless.

 

http://www.b2600turb.../ECI System.htm

 

that's the same details that are in the FSM in that link above from different years

Edited by importwarrior
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  • 1 month later...
Replaced the timing chain, still same problem.... Pretty sure I'm missing something really stupid at this point. Car has great fuel pressure, idles fine, is timed correctly, now has new timing chain and sprockets. Fresh spark plugs, wires and distributor cap are good. I'm at a loss here
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  • 2 months later...
Hey guys, quick question, possibly dumb noob mistake :(. Has anyone ever hooked up the battery cables to the incorrect terminals, or hooked up a charger to the battery with the cables switched. If so what would happen? Fry the ecu? or something else? I'm thinking I may have absentmindedly done this at one point and fried something. Would be the dumbest mistake I've made yet, but if these symptoms I'm seeing are indicative of a fried ecu/eci system then it would explain a lot. Thanks
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  • 2 weeks later...
In all honesty it sounds like plain old worn out injectors. What you need to do is first check to see if you have fuel pulse at the primary injector when the car is dying out. You can do this with a simple tester made of 2 pieces of wire with a needle or pin soldered on one end and a simple 194 parking lamp bulb. Take the wires that u soldered the needles or pins on and connect them to the thin wire that's on the bulb one wire for each side of the bulb. Then take the needles and shove them in ur injector wires. When u start the car look at the bulb and ul see it has a pulsing or look like a spark tester firing. Keep that on there and watch it when the car dies and see if u still have the pulse of the light. If u do then that means the ecu and injector harness is fine which will tell u that either the injector is bad when it gets hot the windings in it just refuse to pulsate to the current it gets. If that's what it does then run it off the secondary injector and repeat the process. (Yes it will run fuely as hell but not to worry about that all ur checking is for a bad injector. If it does the same thing after all this then you need to get a spark tester and hook it inline of a plug and plug wire and see if u lose spark. Although these cars are older they still are fuel inj which means it has an ign module that could be defective and cause it to lose spark when it heats up which is generally 7-10 minutes from cold start. So get this all done and post up something and let us know what u found or didn't find
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Are you blowing black smoke out of the tail pipe?

 

Are the plugs fouled?

 

What are the Ohm readings of the primary and secondary fuel injectors? Anything over 3 Ohms means the injector is FUBAR.

 

If the Ohm readings are within spec then:

 

Remove the top hat of the TB, pull the injectors and give them the suck test. If, after sucking on the inlet of the injector, you can't keep a vacuum felt on your tongue then the injector needs to be cleaned. ;) Hopefully that will clear up your problem.

 

Are you absolutely sure that ALL of the vacuum tubing is hooked up correctly and have NO cracks in the "rats nest" of vacuum tubing and that it's correctly hooked up in the engine house?

 

Have you checked the torque of the TB to intake manifold fasteners and the intake manifold to head fasteners? See the FSM for the proper torque spec.

 

What is the condition of the hose from the PCV to the TB?

 

Have you pulled the vacuum hose from the bottom of the fuel pressure regulator to the TB and checked it using the suck test? If the tubing looses vacuum as you're sucking on it, then the the fuel pressure regulator is shot.

 

Have you disconnected the battery for about 5 minutes and hooked it up again? I have experienced, over the past 25 years, that the FI ECU sometimes goes "bonkers," for no apparant reason, and the Old Broad suddenly runs like crap (warmed up) and can't get out of her own way. Disconnecting the battery and reconnecting it after 5 minutes has cleared up that problem. Sorta like doing a computer reboot. ;)

 

You may have a spark plug wire/connector/plug(s) that is shorting out after running the car for a while. See the FSM Chapter 8 for the proper Ohm readings of all of the spark plug wires when they are hot.

 

Interesting problem. :excl:

 

Let us know what you find out is the root cause of your problem.

 

For What It's Worth.

 

KEN

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  • 2 months later...
  • 3 months later...

In all honesty it sounds like plain old worn out injectors. What you need to do is first check to see if you have fuel pulse at the primary injector when the car is dying out. You can do this with a simple tester made of 2 pieces of wire with a needle or pin soldered on one end and a simple 194 parking lamp bulb. Take the wires that u soldered the needles or pins on and connect them to the thin wire that's on the bulb one wire for each side of the bulb. Then take the needles and shove them in ur injector wires. When u start the car look at the bulb and ul see it has a pulsing or look like a spark tester firing. Keep that on there and watch it when the car dies and see if u still have the pulse of the light. If u do then that means the ecu and injector harness is fine which will tell u that either the injector is bad when it gets hot the windings in it just refuse to pulsate to the current it gets. If that's what it does then run it off the secondary injector and repeat the process. (Yes it will run fuely as hell but not to worry about that all ur checking is for a bad injector. If it does the same thing after all this then you need to get a spark tester and hook it inline of a plug and plug wire and see if u lose spark. Although these cars are older they still are fuel inj which means it has an ign module that could be defective and cause it to lose spark when it heats up which is generally 7-10 minutes from cold start. So get this all done and post up something and let us know what u found or didn't find

 

So now that its a bit warmer out, I've had a little bit of time to check out the car again. Got a little 194 bulb and two wires hooked up to the primary and it appears to just turn the bulb on as opposed to pulsing. Addtionally I can't really keep the car running now. The bulb brightens and dims as the car goes up and down in rpm. Not sure what this is indicating.

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  • 2 weeks later...
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  • 1 year later...

How is the vacuum lines? Thermovalve still there? As the computer moves the ISC different ports on the throttle body can become active. You could have a vac leak that "comes on" as it heats up. Try capping all the ports off and see if it will get trough a warm up cycle.

 

The other thing I can think of is rarer, but it could be a bad solder joint /component in the ECU itself. As it cycles it heats up and doesn't fire correctly.

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Resolution:

 

TPS Reset

ISC Reset

New Injectors

New Maf

 

the injectors were plain and simply worn out and leaking.

 

MAF was messed with by Previous owner and now replaced.

 

car is running well now. got another back on the road.

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Super huge thanks to importwarrior on this one. Car had been sitting almost 4 years and is back on the road again. Now to fix all the other little things that are wrong with it from sitting for so long.
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