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review my ems 4 map


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Disregard all of that my wahlboro fuel pump just stopped working (even jumped direct from battery).

Car is on hold until after I finish the classes for my promotion at work (90 days at least) then however long until I'm motivated to buy a new fuel pump, jack up the car, drop the tank and replace the pump.

 

Guess I burnt her out.

Edited by tux
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First off that dizzy should be fed 5v not 12v. Not knowing better I hooked mine up to 12v and got a horrible cas/cam signal when viewed on a scope. It caused all kinds of misfires. Switching it to 5v input cleaned up the signal.

 

Second are you running individual coils or a pack like the E-dis setup?

 

Third, send me your tune file and I'll compare it with mine to see if I can help you clean it up some. I'm running an EMS-4.

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working on getting my fuel tank in still. having a bit of trouble connecting the fuel neck to the tank >.< there's not enough room to work in that fender well.

 

soon as that's done i'll pull my map

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WOW not much done to that. I have some stuff to do today. Tonite I'll go over it some more and get you something that should let you start and drive your car. It wont be perfect and will still need to be tuned but it should run.
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Great, thank you!

 

My tuning shop told me they won't accept this car unless I can get it to idle at least a little bit.

 

I can get it to start up and stay running for 1-4 seconds, but they don't find that acceptable

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Well like I said it wont be perfect but I'll graft a basic map to yours and do a few tweaks. It should start and drive but I would take it straight to the tuner after that.

 

 

Just a few questions.

What size injectors do you have?

Are you still having ignition problems with no spark?

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Thank you, I gave her a go. Unfortunately I got largely just blasts out of the throttle body, with no attempts to kick over.

 

I remember the guy at AEM saying I needed crank inject all on for some reason, so I gave that I go on that tune, but I didn't get any further.

 

I may have to fiddle with the CAS a little bit. I won't be able to try that until tomorrow though. Although CYL one of the magna dizzy should is pointed right at TDC 1.

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There is a base timing adjustment in the tuner. It syncs the physical timing with what the computer is trying to do. You can crank with the engine off and use a timing light to adjust it. But if you have to adjust more than 10 degrees then you should do it at the dizzy. Popping out the TB does suggest you have the dizzy in wrong.

 

In the sensors/injectors page, who set up your cas/cam window? That part looks a little odd to me. I didn't mess with it because you said it worked. Yours goes up down alot. Mine goes straight across then down.

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So'. I've been mucking around with the timing. 180'ed the dizzy and now backfiring from the back so I've been twisting the guy back and forth, changing the teeth it sits on. I can get a pretty poor attempt at starting which tells me its still a timing issue. My timing light is proving to be useless as its scarcely bright and you have to have someone hold it on the trigger wires just so. Ah well. Too late to continue to play so put off until tomorrow.
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Getting it to run is all about timing, fuel comes after timing is spot on. YOU MUST HAVE A WORKING TIMING LIGHT. And don't get a fancy dial back one, just a basic one button unit.

 

Helps to pull the plugs to get the motor spinning faster, hold the throttle down to keep it in flood clear so the injectors don't fire, or pull the fuse for the injectors. Also much easier with a helper. Ground the base strap on #1 plug with it connected to the distributor via HT lead, put the timing light on the lead, have someone spin the motor and make certain the timing is around 10 degrees before TDC on the compression stroke. YOU HAVE TO GET IT CLOSE or it won't start.

 

Once you've got the timing correct it will be easy to manipulate fueling to get it and keep it running.

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