Noisy wheel spacers

[jszucs]

ok guys I want each of you to go LOOK at their own car and then come back and tell me what is there to stop that axle from being bent up with such a force is applied to the bottom of the wheel rim

 

is that long bolt a pivoit point or not

 

OP car is fairly low, so strut is almost fully compressed, and when forced up all the way, unless you broke that strut free there is no way to tuch the hub to the rear cross member without slotting the rear towers, and or bending or breaking off that strut. So I have to 2nd there is no way without bending, or breaking strut and or trailing arms.

[Shelby]

you belief what you want but I can tell you for a fact that a 3k lb car can bent , flex or what ever you want to call it a strut tower , control arm or any thing else you like to see bent

[patra_is_here]

you belief what you want but I can tell you for a fact that a 3k lb car can bent , flex or what ever you want to call it a strut tower , control arm or any thing else you like to see bent

 

yeah but the OP said nothing is bent.

 

I do agree with you though that the axle CAN touch that sheet metal, after looking at my own car. it is possible to have the suspension compressed enough to tuck the wheel to allow the axle to travel that far upward without bending the control arm or strut? I'm considering taking the springs off my car and test this hypothesis.

Edited May 20, 2013 by patra_is_here

[jszucs]

you belief what you want but I can tell you for a fact that a 3k lb car can bent , flex or what ever you want to call it a strut tower , control arm or any thing else you like to see bent

 

I complely agree a car can and will bend that stuff when you run it into something even minor. I understand the physics and forces involved. But the pictures show non of that stuff bent or broken and OP say non is bent or broken.

[jszucs]

yeah but the OP said nothing is bent.

 

I do agree with you though that the axle CAN touch that sheet metal, after looking at my own car. it is possible to have the suspension compressed enough to tuck the wheel to allow the axle to travel that far upward without bending the control arm or strut? I'm considering taking the springs off my car and test this hypothesis.

 

Take the springs off all you want, that is still not allowing the strut to collaps inward. It can only travel so far.

[tankbob]

My car is on stock SHP suspension(dial set at 6), the rear does sag a bit but the car is not lowered. I got under the car today and the axle does not look bent when compared to the passenger side axle. Also packed a bit of greese under the messed up boot on that axle to help things out a little even if it does just make a mess. Edited May 20, 2013 by tankbob

[JohnnyWadd]

Another thing to check for when you got vibration back there , the alignment disk from the c/v axle to the outer hub where it bolts. It keeps them in the same circle. You have to unbolt the six bolts and nuts to check it. Its in here.. http://i1187.photobucket.com/albums/z388/starionkiller/starion%20c%20v%20axle%20rebuild/th_2011-09-27134350.jpg I have only seen one all jacked sideways but its worth a check after a hard hit

[Fuze]

http://i.imgur.com/eGaTzwT.jpg

 

That's funny, I did the same thing to my first Conquest the first day I got it. Slid over a curb and over a lawn and driveway, backwards. Then, I took off!

[Convette]

if you have the car up on stands and running in a low gear, (USE EXTREME CAUTION WHEN DOING THIS) you may see that the axle is out of true. Prolly wont be visible by just looking at it without it spinning.

[patra_is_here]

just for the hell of it i wanted to see what kind of travel would be required.

 

this is SHP strut housings, NO bump stop, and NO upper perch/hat. at this point, (i wasn't able to get the spring out) there was MAYBE 1.5 inches of travel before the strut hits the top mount (less in reality since you have to run an upper perch and bump stop(about an inch thick all things considered for the perch, bump stop is 2 inches easily.) so you can see it's pretty slammed. those are 205/55 and there's only about 1.5 inches of sidewal showing.......

http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3800/8769493441_ae5e7b9521.jpg

 

now at this point, inside...

 

 

 

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8402/8769497605_80c774d3ab.jpg

there's still a good 2 to 2.5 inches between the axle and sheetmetal . So you musta REALLY slammed the hell out of you suspension during impact (no bumpstops, super thin perch, or the damage was there from the previous owner, or something else is bent that you havent found yet that allowed you to compress the suspension that much. I've caught air in my car and never had the suspension compress enough to allow the axle to hit.

Edited May 21, 2013 by patra_is_here

[tankbob]

just for the hell of it i wanted to see what kind of travel would be required.

 

this is SHP strut housings, NO bump stop, and NO upper perch/hat. at this point, (i wasn't able to get the spring out) there was MAYBE 1.5 inches of travel before the strut hits the top mount (less in reality since you have to run an upper perch and bump stop(about an inch thick all things considered for the perch, bump stop is 2 inches easily.) so you can see it's pretty slammed. those are 205/55 and there's only about 1.5 inches of sidewal showing.......

http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3800/8769493441_ae5e7b9521.jpg

 

now at this point, inside...

 

 

 

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8402/8769497605_80c774d3ab.jpg

there's still a good 2 to 2.5 inches between the axle and sheetmetal . So you musta REALLY slammed the hell out of you suspension during impact (no bumpstops, super thin perch, or the damage was there from the previous owner, or something else is bent that you havent found yet that allowed you to compress the suspension that much. I've caught air in my car and never had the suspension compress enough to allow the axle to hit.

I slammed pretty dam hard, my front end didnt take too much impact(some how just coasted up the curb) but my drivers rear wheel stopped the whole car.

[patra_is_here]

I honestly think you bent something =(

[tankbob]

I honestly think you bent something =(

Ill see when I get my new axle at my house and things start to get taken apart. You think the new one wont fit since the axle may have bent where it attaches to?

[patra_is_here]

i think it's more likely you bent the control arm or suspension rather than bending the axle.

[tankbob]

i think it's more likely you bent the control arm or suspension rather than bending the axle.

There is an 87 in a junkyard that Im going to checkout tomorrow, Ill try and pull as much of the left rear end as possible just to be safe.

[tankbob]

I got a new axle and Im starting the removal of the old one. Im not sure how to continue though, Ive got the four bolts off of the axle and I thought I could just drop it out from there but it wont budge. I dont know whether to drop the a-arm from the bottom or drop the shock from inside the car.

[JohnnyWadd]

I got a new axle and Im starting the removal of the old one. Im not sure how to continue though, Ive got the four bolts off of the axle and I thought I could just drop it out from there but it wont budge. I dont know whether to drop the a-arm from the bottom or drop the shock from inside the car.

Unbolting the upper shock mount will help a little. The spline end may need a little coaxing to pop out of the differential. Gently pry it away from the diff without bending the little sheet meal ring with a prybar (big screw driver)

Edited May 29, 2013 by JohnnyWadd

[patra_is_here]

also, if the part with the 4 bolts isn't moving, it's probably just stuck from rust. hit it with a mallet.

[tankbob]

Shock dropped, axle is detached from wheel side but now I cant get it out of the diff. I cant seem to get a good point to pry it with that will pop it out. Is there a pin inside the diff?

 

Got mad with a hammer and a piece of pipe and its free. Taking parts out that you dont care about is easy when youre mad. Next challenge is getting the new axle to press into the diff ugh haha

Edited May 29, 2013 by tankbob

[Shelby]

if you have an 87 at the junk yard i'd strongly sugest you remove the entire strut and lower control arms as an aseembly and swap them over to your car

[patra_is_here]

the axles go in to the diff fairly easily. shouldn't be fighting you too much at all.

[tankbob]

Axle is in and the car again drives. However none of my issues have been resolved, the wheel still squeeks and I still get drivetrain vibration in 3rd and 4th gear(although kinda different feeling now). The axle that went in had good boots unlike the one that came out. If the axle wasnt the problem whats next? 4 wheel alignment?

if you have an 87 at the junk yard i'd strongly sugest you remove the entire strut and lower control arms as an aseembly and swap them over to your car

This was the plan but I didnt bring the right tools for the job. I was planning on going back if I couldnt get the new axle in and drop the a-arm on the junk car.

[Convette]

yeah I would just grab the whole control arm/axle/hub in one big piece. Swap the whole thing. Have you ran the car off the ground to see if you can see any thing while its in the air?

[Fuze]

Axle is in and the car again drives. However none of my issues have been resolved, the wheel still squeeks and I still get drivetrain vibration in 3rd and 4th gear(although kinda different feeling now).

 

You probably bent the arm or one of the mount points, and it's throwing your rear alignment off. You may not feel the car pulling to one side, but the wheels could be too toed in or out, fighting each other. It may not be easy to see with the naked eye.

 

This happened in my Girl's Z3, the body shop missed it but she bent a crossmember under there enough to throw the toe out, (sideswiped a pole) and went through a pair of rear tires in 3 months. Best bet is to swap the control arm and really look at the mount points on the subframe for deformation.

[tankbob]

Driving the car last night the vibration led to a bang and my driveshaft disconnected itself in the rear portion. My dad convinced me to take it to our mechanic since it isnt a speciality job like working under the hood. Ill let him do the driveshaft and we wil see how the car is afterwards.