Munkee Posted December 11, 2012 Report Share Posted December 11, 2012 Before I did the D2/poly bushing install my car would make a rattling noise on a take off from a stop. I thought this was because of bad suspension (blown shocks) but i read later that it could be bad TT mounts. When I did the install I checked the TT mounts and did notice some play w/ a pry bar. I couldnt find a poly set and decided to wait a bit on ordering new OEM ones. Now that the car is back together and driving for a few weeks, I've noticed I no longer get that rattle noise at take off, so maybe my thought of bad suspension was correct the first time. What I do notice though is that in between shifts if I shift fast/hard i get a loud CLUNK from the rear end when I let off the clutch. In any gear. I clutch, go to next gear, and gas/let off the clutch, there's a loud CLUNK you can hear/feel from the rear as I do so. If i gas/slip off the clutch SLOWLY between shifts, its not there. Never noticed this before the install but if it was there before it was not this pronounced. I have a few ideas of what this might be but thought I could run them by you guys. 1. Play in the TT or diff mounts, causing the diff to hit underneath the car whenever rotational force is transferred to it? Possibly left some play in there when I was bolting the rear end back in? I torqued everything down to spec and triple checked my work but maybe something is still off? Or maybe the poly bushings are leaving some play back there? 2. When I was under the car during the install, I noticed the TT had some rotational play when i spun it by hand. Maybe a 1/4" or so. I read this could be caused by bad teeth in the TT but I didnt open it up to check the condition. Also thought this may have been the cause of the before mentioned rattle during accel from stop. Now I'm thinking the clunk maybe due to that play, as the TT might travel a 1/4" or so before the teeth 'grab' w/ the diff? 3. Just the result of a stiffer suspension and I'm feeling/hearing more of the normal rotational force transfer than I did before? I hope I explained this correctly and maybe you guys can point me in the right direction. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fanta Posted December 11, 2012 Report Share Posted December 11, 2012 I'd lean more towards #2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Funky Phil Posted December 11, 2012 Report Share Posted December 11, 2012 busted differential mount(s). climb under the car and push up on the rear pumpkin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skullzaflare Posted December 11, 2012 Report Share Posted December 11, 2012 ^im with Phil, I had both snap just backing out of apparking spot once. Same noise Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stariondreams Posted May 7, 2014 Report Share Posted May 7, 2014 What do you guys use to fix busted diff mounts ? do you go solid? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnnyWadd Posted May 7, 2014 Report Share Posted May 7, 2014 What do you guys use to fix busted diff mounts ? do you go solid? Go solid or get the Poly Urethane ones. Or OEMhttp://www.starquestclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=142714&hl=poly Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wrngwae Posted May 7, 2014 Report Share Posted May 7, 2014 We make the poly diff and torque tube mounts. Let me know any needs you have. Our poly is much quieter then welded. Mounts. Let me know Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stariondreams Posted May 7, 2014 Report Share Posted May 7, 2014 Do you have a site i can check out your mounts or prices? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psu_Crash Posted May 7, 2014 Report Share Posted May 7, 2014 (edited) I agree with busted diff mounts. I replaced mine with OEM a few years back and so far so good. Since I already have full poly in the suspension and a Funk Lock I didn't want more added vibration from a poly diff Your TT isn't helping anything thoough. Clean up the splines as best you can and pack it with grease to help out some. Edited May 7, 2014 by psu_Crash Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wrngwae Posted May 7, 2014 Report Share Posted May 7, 2014 Do you have a site i can check out your mounts or prices?http://nbingaman.wix.com/gntperformance Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
STARION_NORTH Posted May 8, 2014 Report Share Posted May 8, 2014 Torque tube splines are worn, no easy fix. Nobody ever greases the coupling so the wear on each other resulting in a sloppy connection and a thud when the slack is taken up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stariondreams Posted May 12, 2014 Report Share Posted May 12, 2014 http://i979.photobucket.com/albums/ae278/bigmandsm/2014%20starion%20build/IMG_20140512_134851_683.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scott87star Posted May 12, 2014 Report Share Posted May 12, 2014 That one is deceased. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stariondreams Posted May 13, 2014 Report Share Posted May 13, 2014 It felt crazy when it went bad on the dyno! omg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wrngwae Posted May 13, 2014 Report Share Posted May 13, 2014 (edited) Not cool. But hey atleast you were on the dyno. Not on the road. that is never fun at speed. lol. I know a guy who makes those in poly. Just sayin. Have you been emailed the dyno sheet yet? Edited May 13, 2014 by wrngwae 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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