BoostedBimmer Posted May 6, 2012 Report Share Posted May 6, 2012 Ok, I have the whole head off the motor, and was wondering if it's ok to use my engine hoist/chain using two head bolts (with bigger washers) screwed into the block to pull the motor out? I won't ruin the threads in the block right? I plan on rebuilding the block down the road and just making sure I don't ruin it... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nomofwd Posted May 6, 2012 Report Share Posted May 6, 2012 I wouldnt try it even though it should be strong enough. I did however lift the engine (minus transmission) using the distributor tab bolt and the rearmost threaded hole on the exhaust manifold and it worked quite well. If you have the head off the car then you can get a little creative with the ac/alt holes and the transmission bell housing holes as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dad Posted May 6, 2012 Report Share Posted May 6, 2012 You can lift it that way just fine. Been there, done that, I keep old bolts around just for that. Dad 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Metric-man Posted May 6, 2012 Report Share Posted May 6, 2012 X2 balance the bolt locations to 1 and 4 cylinders and make sure every thing else is disconnectedremove the hood if you can. If you have an old seatbelt you can use that as a craddle for added support just don't pinch the pan. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dadrab Posted May 7, 2012 Report Share Posted May 7, 2012 ...and, for God's sake, don't try to reuse the bolts. ...just sayin'... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BoostedBimmer Posted May 7, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 7, 2012 Yes, I know that haha Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NudeLobster Posted May 7, 2012 Report Share Posted May 7, 2012 Figure I should post here rather than starting a new topic. Where would you guys suggest hoisting the engine from if the whole top end (head, manifolds, ect) is still on the engine? -Justin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dad Posted May 7, 2012 Report Share Posted May 7, 2012 Figure I should post here rather than starting a new topic. Where would you guys suggest hoisting the engine from if the whole top end (head, manifolds, ect) is still on the engine? -JustinThere should be lift brackets, right front of head by idler pulley and left rear at the intake manifold. Dad Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
89BananaQuest Posted May 7, 2012 Report Share Posted May 7, 2012 I pukled the head off wrapped a seat belt around the turbo mani and the intake mani lifted the head off. Then used a seat belt around the mounts just unbolt mounts from the cradle and up she came. Seat belts ftw! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caliber308 Posted May 8, 2012 Report Share Posted May 8, 2012 (edited) There should be lift brackets, right front of head by idler pulley and left rear at the intake manifold. Dad Yep, stock from the factory. MD000255 Engine Front Hanger.MD026525 Engine Rear Hanger. Bill Edited May 8, 2012 by Caliber308 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dred_85.5_TSI Posted May 8, 2012 Report Share Posted May 8, 2012 I pulled the short block and trans out of my 84 using an engine leveler and four head bolts. No problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1989STAR-ESIR Posted May 8, 2012 Report Share Posted May 8, 2012 Great topic/post I will be pulling a short block with a 5 speed connected tomorrow using 4 used head bolts and some chains. Then I can scrap the rest of my parts car finally. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BoostedBimmer Posted May 8, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 8, 2012 Ok, my next question, is it easier to remove the motor with the trans connected still or not? I plan on replacing the trans at the same time too by the way... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dred_85.5_TSI Posted May 8, 2012 Report Share Posted May 8, 2012 nope believe me it is easier to take them out or put them back seperate. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BoostedBimmer Posted May 8, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 8, 2012 OK, ill drop the trans first, and then take out the motor separate. Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NudeLobster Posted May 29, 2012 Report Share Posted May 29, 2012 Yep, stock from the factory. MD000255 Engine Front Hanger.MD026525 Engine Rear Hanger. Bill Okay so I'm pulling the motor tomorrow. I looked at it today and couldn't find these hangers...Are they like a metal bracket with holes for hooks? I tried to look in the VM parts locator and the engine section only has a single diagram and the rest are blank pages. Tried to get a pic on google and came up with nothing really. -Justin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Komeuppance Posted May 29, 2012 Report Share Posted May 29, 2012 I use a longer bolt to bolt the chain to the side of the block, where the engine mounts are. -Robert Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NudeLobster Posted May 30, 2012 Report Share Posted May 30, 2012 is there any downside to wrapping the chains around the exh runner number 1 and intake runner number 4 and lifting? -Justin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
strang3majik Posted May 30, 2012 Report Share Posted May 30, 2012 I lifted mine out with the rear intake bolt and the front bolt where the idler goes (my lift hooks were missing). Worked like a charm. You'd be surprised at the strength of a 12mm bolt...I installed my datsun engine with it dangling from one so I could get enough angle...thing was stable as could be...haha. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Starfighterpilot Posted May 30, 2012 Report Share Posted May 30, 2012 Another thing you guys should be aware of - the lenght of the lifting chain across the engine. It should be a MINIMUM of 3 FT. and have AT LEAST 3/16ths IN. diameter welded links. There is a good reason for the minimum lenght of the chain. If the chain is too short, the engine could slid forward or backwards through the cherry picker hook due to the small angle of the chain. More important, the shallow angle of the chain could place excessive loads on the chain & engine attaching lift bolts.To avoid this, don't hook the chain up any shorter than necessary, certainly no shorter than 3 feet, and use a large diameter washer with a small hole that JUST fits over the threaded bolt between each bolt head and nut. I have seen "mechanics" not adhering to the above and a dropped engine back onto the car body is not a pretty sight especially if there is a person who has his hands on the engine helping to guide it out. One "mechanic" had all four of this fingers (missed the thumb) sheared off cuz the lifting chain across the engine snapped and the engine dropped down cuz the chain was made in china and was too short (almost flat) across the engine when lifting tension was applied to it and the engine was about 1 foot in the off of the engine mounts!!!. For What It's Worth. KEN Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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