BoostedBimmer

Im guessing its the clutch pedal return spring that's causing the issue?

Ok, I'm not sure exactly what I should be looking for/diagnosing, but when I press down the clutch pedal all the way down and/or release it, it makes a springy noise (which I can also feel in my foot) at the point exactly when the clutch pedal is all the way down. It kind of feels like a rusty spring or something. Any idea what the problem may be? Do I need to grease anything? Other than the annoying noise it makes in-between shifts when I press the clutch pedal down, the car shifts fine and no slipping of the clutch....

Ugh, I found the problem--There's actually a small crack on the body of the trans where all the fluid dumps out of

Ok, I was wondering if there were any Honda experts here? My 95 Civic (auto trans) just dumped all its trans fluid out (leaving a huge pool of trans oil on my driveway). I checked the following so far of possible areas where it can leak, and these areas are all fine: Transmission cooler lines (all dry) Both driveshafts where they enter the trans (all dry) Dipstick (on tight) Transmission drain plug (dry) I didn't take off the torque converter cover yet, but it appears all dry behind this cover. Where could've all this trans oil dumped out from???

That looks hideous on the fenders. I can definitely see some punk kid walking by snapping them off too...

If you get HIDs, you need to get the H4 conversion housings that are projector-type, or else you'll have a ton of glare (and its annoying to on-coming drivers). Something like this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/7x6-BLACK-PROJECTOR-HEADLIGHTS-HID-CONVERSION-HIGH-LOW-KIT-6000K-/311121789847?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item48704dc397&vxp=mtr But they look kind of ugly vs the normal H4 conversion housings....

Nope, car is completely stock, down to the aircan...

Ok, for a few times now, when I come to a light and idle, the RPMs would dip really low and the car would die out. I put it in neutral and the car starts right up then. This happened a few times now this week all the sudden. I can prevent this by pressing the gas pedal at the light to prevent the engine's rpms from dipping too low. The car has been idling perfect at around 800 RPM and the motor runs perfect with no problems. I did a full tune-up a few months ago too (new fuel filter, wires, distributor, plugs, etc.). The only engine problem I ever had was the infamous hiccup when boosting, and I replaced the vacuum advance and it solved the problem. Any ideas what the problem might be? Ignitor maybe? It's the original (metal) one. The motor also has the original (OEM) coil...

Im not sure how to post pics, but can someone copy & paste the pics onto this thread before the ad disappears? Thanks...

Here is the Craigslist ad (not mine). Awesome: http://newyork.craigslist.org/wch/cto/4603182303.html

Anyone have the (outer) sunroof gasket/seal that surrounds the sunroof in good shape? Mine is missing (and I know our cars dont really need it) but I don't really like the gap surrounding the sunroof glass without it. Thanks..

I had EBC green pads on my other car which are very good, but they dont make them for starquests

I got this stock-temperature one from NAPA, its a Tama brand and "made in Japan" with no issues: http://www.napaonlin...2904_0257826884

Ok, im replacing my rear calipers, and that 10 x 22 mm clevis pin is frozen onto the end of the parking brake cable! I removed the cotter pin (obviously), and tried to even hammer that pin down (using a heavy duty screwdriver to get leverage), with no luck. Its rusted frozen to the end of the cable. I was thinking of resorting to the use of my dremel to cut the head off of the clevis pin to remove it, but I cant seem to find the same replacement clevis pin. What to do??

PM sent

Ok, my headlights didnt work the other day. I checked the interior fuses, and the one for the horn was bad (Fuse No. 9). I replaced that fuse, and BAM the headlights work. What would the horn fuse have anything to do with the headlights? What was Mitsubishi thinking?

For a bone-stock Honda thats never had the head removed, other than making sure it never overheats (i.e. replace thermostats in time, hoses, water pump, and good radiator), how can U blow a headgasket?

I just got this Whistler radar detector from Costco for $80, and it picks out all the red light cameras easily using GPS! As soon as you are within 500 ft. of one, it warns you and even tells you how many feet away you are from it as you approach it! Awesome!!!! I tested it out on several intersections here in NJ that have these damn cameras, and it works perfectly! This is it right here: http://www.whistlergroup.com/radar-detector-catalog/lr-300gp-product.aspx?id=346

Wouldnt it be wiser to just get another (new) non-jet head?

Thats exactly why I would never ever buy a leased car....

Thanks, thats probably what it is, I havent really looked at it yet. Ill let you guys know...

Ok, when I put the vent on (full hot--90 degrees), the driver side and center vents blow hot air, but for some reason, the far-right passenger side vent blows cold air. Anyone know what the problem is?

If the 89 Mas Air Sensor is in good shape and the screens are in good shape, Ill take it....Sent PM

Yep, same thing happened to me. The boot was ripped and the seal was damaged slowly leaking fluid, and I had to fill up the reservior every few hundred miles. You can get a rebuild kit (that has a new boot) for a few dollars, but I just replaced the whole unit ($40) and works great now...

Hmm, I never knew Miatas had a turbo option from the factory...