nomofwd

Excellent! Hope you love them!

The head is sold and shipped out today actually. Unfortunately the manifold is at my mothers house. Why I left it there is beyond me. Anyway, she was not home this afternoon so I will have to snag it tomorrow.

Sorry for not updating sooner. I can have pics of the manifold up this afternoon. All other parts are sold and shipped. Lost my shirt on shipping that cast iron lol.

Pending payment on the head and ARP studs! Exhaust manifold SOLD! I'm really happy with the level of interest that has come forth. You guys are great and I wish I could see the fruits of the labors that my parts help bring.

Sure do!

I'm never going to use these parts and now have another vehicle to kill the remote hope that I would so all prices have been reduced. I just want to move these out of the shop. Reasonable offers will be considered as well.

You might feel good to know that you partially funded my "new" 96 Legacy Outback! It's not fast but I'm loving it!

Turbo sold to JohnnyWadd. Still the head, manifold and studs left!

He also had payment to me less than an hour after posting! lol. I made the utmost effort to get the parts shipped ASAP. I hope they go to something really nasty. I never got far enough to get my car squirted or MPI. ALTHOUGH!!!! And I just remembered. I have an 89-90 MX6 GT manifold in a dusty corner. I never found the time to make a very simple adapter plate... (damn I want my car back now) and will sell it. 125$ Shipped. It will need a new gasket for the midsection as I separated the halves to inspect and clean. Cheap gasket. I'm adding this to the original post as well. If anyone can PM me and sent payment tonight (3/8/13) I would give a discount. I am headed to an auction tomorrow and desperately need new wheels. I've been driving a 3500 silverado since the fire and the HOA are gathering pitchforks and torches.....I also blow 60~ a week on diesel. The conquest got 19-21mpg combined anyway so it's not too much worse lol.

Also, rods and pistons sold and shipped to Nikofab. A big thank you for being a cool customer too!

I cleaned and checked over the turbo again tonight and took pictures. My first estimation was incorrect. There is one other o-ring that was baked in the center section. Part no.8 listed here, the seal plate o-ring. http://gpopshop.com/...rd-rebuild-kit/ All other parts are in used but fine condition. However my inclination now is that the turbo should not be shipped partially assembled seeing as this o-ring need be replaced behind the snap ring that holds the assembly together. Also in my quick searching I have not found that piece available separately from a full rebuild kit and so I will be reducing the price to $200 shipped. I feel that the turbine, compressor wheel and machined housings are worth this. Anyone with some mechanical aptitude could attach these parts to their stock turbo and have exactly what I have now....except assembled http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f246/FrodoGT/th_IMAG0486_zpsd0c74612.jpghttp://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f246/FrodoGT/th_IMAG0471_zps843c3452.jpghttp://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f246/FrodoGT/th_IMAG0484_zps6fd90599.jpghttp://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f246/FrodoGT/th_IMAG0481_zpsfecb3f25.jpghttp://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f246/FrodoGT/th_IMAG0482_zps0bc15a66.jpghttp://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f246/FrodoGT/th_IMAG0479_zps6c81da95.jpghttp://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f246/FrodoGT/th_IMAG0475_zpsb5729abe.jpghttp://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f246/FrodoGT/th_IMAG0478_zps5bb37a6a.jpg The orange coloring is the lightest surface rust. I will be copying the above to all that have PMed me their interest. My apologies for overlooking the second o-ring on my first check.

The List of those waiting for the turbo so far goes: JohnnyWadd Clow340 86silverstarion The turbo will be completely assembled upon shipping with the exception of the compressor housing which will need a new seal. I have already removed and disposed of the baked pieces that were left. This afternoon I will be headed to the shop to take detailed pictures and reassemble. Also thanks to everyone for the condolences lol. Strang3majik That is not far for sure. The price is a bit out of my reach but if it could be brought down I would be interested. Really though I do need a daily. I've never owned a car in which the only work I could see in the near future was an oil change and tire rotation.. I've also never owned one made in the last two decades.

Also I forgot to mention and will add to the original post. I have a Mitsubishi valve cover to add. Was powder coated red with the letters contrast cut but the coating burned off and is bare now. $35 plus shipping. Shouldn't be more than 15 to ship.

I'm in Sarasota FL. An hour south of Tampa.

This wont ease your stomach. http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f246/FrodoGT/th_774104_10101522034971561_1534873195_o_zps374bcc94.jpg Notice the front end flat on the ground..

So after over a year of driving and loving my conquest, having rebuilt the engine using parts sourced from you fine people and poured sweat and blood into it the small valve cover leak I had got the best of me. After completely humiliating a new mercedes and turning off to head home the car engulfed in smoke and burnt completely by the time the fire department could respond. http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f246/FrodoGT/th_IMAG0329_zps62880ceb.jpg http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f246/FrodoGT/th_IMAG0341_zpsf273a87a.jpg To make a short story long, I managed to pull every worthwhile part I felt I could before it was hauled away and although I held out hope that I would find a replacement roller to use these things on it seems that every sub $2k Conquest or Starion in Florida has gone into hiding and after almost two months I must sell these parts to get myself a car that will be boring, will be slow, will get me to work everyday and I will hate every time. Every penny of the sale of these parts will go towards it. I am giving FULL DISCLOSURE here. I have no reason not to. If there is anything that you think I have overlooked, please ask. First, the head. $200 shipped with cam. Non Jet Valve, Mechanical Rocker. I am unsure of the casting origin. This head is from a very fine running car. It is in ready to run condition but is missing one intake and possibly one exhaust stud (I cant recall if I have it). They are not broken, I just lost them in the shuffle. The head has absolutely no cracks, warping or defects. It was run at 15psi with a 19c on a Felpro gasket with the studs not fully torqued and held coolant beutifully. I have remove the cam tower to run the head through the parts washer and remove the surface rust on the cam and springs that came from sitting on a shelf. It will ship with the cam installed and torqued, ready to rock. The adjusters have little to no wear and were set roughly twice per oil change. I put over 4000 miles on this head. The car was bought with a spun rod bearing and it may be seen in the pictures that one small particle made its way through one journal and left an extremely light trail. This made no impact on the operation of the head at all but I want to make it known. http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f246/FrodoGT/th_IMAG0468_zps2cd160ad.jpg http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f246/FrodoGT/th_IMAG0469_zps3a26648c.jpg Rods and Pistons. Sold! JE forged pistons on stock rods with ARP rod bolts. .040 Overbore. These pistons were originally custom made by JE for Top End Performance. I was faxed a build sheet for the piston by JE and they have on file any information needed about the pistons from this batch. Because of the engine having a spun bearing when purchased I replaced two of the rods. One was purchased reconditioned, the other from a good condition short block. The remaining two were checked by a machine shop for roundness. Oil clearances were very uniform and TIGHT. Oil pressure at idle was 30-35psi no matter how hard I pushed. My piston to wall clearance was a nice .0045 checked with a feeler gauge and because these are low silicon forged aluminum they do not expand much and have a light diesel-esque sound when cold. Once they warmed up they quieted down considerably. I never had a thought toward the limit of what I could throw at these things. They are pure tanks. http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f246/FrodoGT/th_IMAG0456_zps2e2573bf.jpg ARP Head studs $40 Shipped. A full set of studs with washers. torqued to 100ft/lb twice (snapon wrench didn't read higher ) http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f246/FrodoGT/th_IMAG0466_zps9b1c555d.jpg Exhaust monifold. SOLD Stress relieved, Uncracked. This stock manifold is in fantastic shape. It has been heavily stress relieved. Never leaked or gave a worry. http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f246/FrodoGT/th_IMAG0454_zps104226ac.jpg http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f246/FrodoGT/th_IMAG0455_zpsed3999e8.jpg MX6 GT Intake manifold. MPI your car with an adapter plate. Comes with dual butterfly throttle body. WIll need the gasket that seals the two halves. I separated them to inspect. $100 SHIPPED (can you tell I like taking a loss on shipping?) (Pictures in later post) The turbo. TD05H19C SOLD! I have not taken photos of the turbo yet as it is currently disassembled to be cleaned and checked for any damage. The only damage is to the compressor housing o-ring. Stock turbine housing and center assembly. TD05H turbine and shaft, machined to fit. 19C compressor wheel also machined to fit. This turbo is bolt on badarse. With a 2.5 downpipe and prelude intake on the stock maf the car would build 1-2psi at 1800 rpm. 15psi kicked you in the tail HARD at 3000-3200rpm but would build full boost before 3000 if rolled on. In 4th and 5th (no real time difference) the car would roll 70-80mph in 3 seconds flat and in a light drizzle broke 225 rears loose at 70mph in 4th, rolling on. Power never fell off a cliff in the high ranges but with a cam this would be even more capable. It will need a new o-ring to the compressor housing and seal plate but is in otherwise great shape. Small amount of shaft play but never smoked even a puff before the fire. Ran 15psi every single day and only because that is where the stock fuel system ran out of steam! Has -an feed fitting installed currently. Wastegate is gone but mounting bolts are in place for yours. Paypal is mario12187@yahoo.com If you want a part you can send funds but please PM me to tell me you have sent it so that nobody gets mixed up. If the part has already been sold and you send payment I will refund quickly. Otherwise PM me first to get your dibs. Thank you!

The AEM has a selectable 0-1v or 0-5v output as well as a serial output. However it can only do one of the two voltage ranges at any one time.

I've had experience with 3 different Innovate Lc-1 units and had nothing but trouble with all 3 on different cars, multiple free air calibrations that lasted an hour or less, errors and one complete failure two weeks in. I ran an AEM on my personal daily driver for nearly two years and never had one single stutter, error, delay or issue. I then resold it for 15 less than I paid new on Ebay. I was skeptical given that some of AEMs parts in the past were more show than go but the electronics/guages are stellar. I've also had experience with the truboost and two other AEM widebands (one digital, one analog face) on a car I have tuned and they were solid too.

This is my local track and it is always incomprehensibly sticky. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JKxyHycSEjQ His twin 88mm turbo car makes 2500hp on 12-15lb of boost... with the intention to run 3000~ I love the run with the tire kissing clouds till the traps at 200+

That port on the ovc pipe is not part of the intake manifold and is before the throttle body itself. It should never register vacuum and only serves as a boost reference for the wastegate. It should only register pressure when the turbo is producing positive pressures which, unless the turbo where incredibly small and the engine quite large, will only be while the engine is under a load and not sitting still. As mentioned you want to take your reading off the nipple on the manifold itself closest to the driver side fender. Either the one closest to the firewall or the one by itself below the 3.

If the slave isn't moving, keep on bleeding. Not to say you don't know the proper method but if you arent dead sure, look around. If it is moving and your clutch still wont disengage then you have other issues deeper in the assembly. This assumes that the slave is moving far ENOUGH. It should start moving with very light pressure on the pedal and continue moving until the pedal hits the floor.

Not dangerously, no. The mass airflow meters entire purpose is to tell how much air goes in, and then the ecu calculates how much fuel should be injected to match the air mass, creating the desired ratio. When you open the intake up and allow more air in the sensor accounts for this. Similar to turning up the boost, or running a larger exhaust system. It knows that more air is entering the engine. Where you will run into trouble is when you take in a largely different amount of air than you did before at the same rpm, Either from increased airflow or by changing the location of turbo spool or powerband (moving it higher or lower in the rpm range) by way of a cam or larger, later spooling turbo as the factory tuning may not be as spot on since the vehicle was never intended to be running at that particular airflow/rpm. Also when you begin to run out of available injector flow you will run lean.

As for removal of the engine, that is incredibly simple on our cars. I was shocked. I pulled mine with the transmission off. Before pull the trans you will want to disconnect all electrical connectors from the engine and be sure that they are clear from being snagged. The charge harness is up to you, I pulled mine twice and once disconnected the alternator end, the next time I unhooked everything from the body side of the harness. I felt it was easier and quicker to not have to reach in but your accessibility may be different than mine. Pull the charge piping and intake. Disconnect the exhaust. Make sure the oil cooler lines are off as well as all of the vacuum lines, making sure to not mix them up. ONce you have the transmission off the engine will rock a bit back and forth but with my stock mounts it held itself easily from damaging the radiator or the firewall. for lack of more accessible mounting points I used one bolt into the rear topside of the exhaust manifold (I have no heat shield and this is likely a mount for it) and one bolt in the distributor mounting tab (I pulled the dist for this). These two points made the engine incredibly well balanced when hoisted without a leveler. Take the weight off the engine mounts and remove the 4 bolts (2 each) holding them. Then lift. Because my hoists arm was a tiny bit short I had to keep even pressure forcing the engine backwards from the front of the car to clear the radiator but it was nothing one hand couldn't do. I lifted it from the side just in front of the wheel the first time and it came right out. The engine bay is fairly large for the size of the engine. Now as for the rod and main bearings there really isn't a method for removing them. They are not under an enormous torque load and will come right off being careful not to smack the crank journals with the rod bolts. The crank comes out easiest with the block upside down. Remove the main bolts and wiggle the caps out with a rubber mallet and the bolt as a lever. They come out fairly easily. The remove the crank. Make sure you have the torque specs when you replace them and do it evenly on both sides, checking more than once to be sure they are torqued. Of course check your bearing clearances before finishing up. Make sure the grooved bearign half goes into the block and not the cap. This will help if starquest garage is down. http://www.b2600turbo.com/ Also.. the mounting points I mentioned and the hoist made pulling the head the easiest part of the rebuild. Pulled with both manifolds and turbo attached. Just pulled the coolant and oil lines connecting the block to the head, then the studs (or bolts) and lifted it right off the block which was mounted to a stand.

I just got mine at a hardware store as I never had any. I can't recall the thread size and pitch off the top of my head but the two on the bottom of the bell housing will also go in the starter. The top two are shorter. Just measure the thickness of the tranny and take a simple depth measurement into the block (they don't go ALL the way in).

The use of the lower port is not required although if you did use it, it would be connected the the charge piping at some point. It is there to help make actuation quicker and more accurate. While the top port is pulling up on the diaphragm, the lower port is pushing up and adding to the effect on the plunger. Consider it a helper.