20g in starion housing

[The Rabbit1]

ah lol

id need to get it welded shut then

or do the pipe in the wg hole, then cut a hole in the plate, and weld the plate to the pipe, then the whole pipe and plate turn in, then put bolts in

that had me thinking "and then the wastegate to the plate, and then the pipe to the wastegate, and then the pipe to the pipe..and then.." lol

[Skullzaflare]

that had me thinking "and then the wastegate to the plate, and then the pipe to the wastegate, and then the pipe to the pipe..and then.." lol

one giant runon lol im known for that, i hate grammer

though it may work, if i do that pipe one, i wouldnt have to close off that wall

[Indiana]

I was talking DSM type housing, your housing has the bypass passage cast into the housing so the flow from the flapper goes back into the exhaust stream, you'd have to block that. Just have it welded close. Cut a piece of metal and lay it over the hole and weld it.

 

 

[Skullzaflare]

I was talking DSM type housing, your housing has the bypass passage cast into the housing so the flow from the flapper goes back into the exhaust stream, you'd have to block that. Just have it welded close. Cut a piece of metal and lay it over the hole and weld it.

technically, thats the cause of my overboost right?

could one technically close that, and run a pipe off the internal (opening enough where the flapper can open farther) and use that?

[The Rabbit1]

your boost creep is caused aby too small of a wastegate opening, he is trying to tell you to add a external wastegate, but use the same housing, just as you understood before. but you will probably have to port the wastgate hole and eliminate the flapper because it doesn't allow enough air to escape.

[jinx]

20g td05 shaft with td06 wheel in a milled out starion hotside

is that even possible ?? ...to have a td05 shaft, but a td06 turbine wheel ?

I thought they were one individual piece.

An integral wastegate 20g can operate properly if its setup correctly. Many have.

No need for all that external wastegate complexity, $$$, weight and crap, etc.

[The Rabbit1]

is that even possible ?? ...to have a td05 shaft, but a td06 turbine wheel ?

I thought they were one individual piece.

An integral wastegate 20g can operate properly if its setup correctly. Many have.

No need for all that external wastegate complexity, $$$, weight and crap, etc.

OP is not using the 20G exhaust housing. I am assuming you didn't read the whole thread?

[Indiana]

A TD05 shaft can't have a TD06 wheel on it, if it did it would just be a TD06 shaft. The shaft and wheel are one piece you can't remove the wheel from the shaft.

 

A TD05 hole is too small for the CFMs that a 20G compressor wheel can push. At stock boost you are pushing about three times more air out that manifold and it has to go somewhere. You can make it go out the wastegate path and control it with an external WG after the housing but this is just too much work for what shouldn't have never been made in the first place. You need to keep your cartridge, the 20G wheel and you can keep the compressor housing. You need to buy a TD05H shaft and turbine housing from a DSM and you can port the crap out of it and still keep that wastegate actuator you have or go to an external using a downpipe as shown but this is some $$$. You'll never get that huge wheel to not cause that creep from your engine unless you keep the boost low and that wheel at low boost sucks. It still wants to run 20psi not 10. If you had a header it would be much worse.

 

You have other options. You can save that compressor housing, 20g wheel and cartridge for something else and get a smaller turbo to use with your turbine housing or get a different larger shaft like a TD05H or TD06 and turbine housing and use the cartrige, 20g wheel and compressor housing you have and retain the wastegate actuator you have now. If you go to a larger shaft or keep what you have, you're going to have to get a larger better WG path and something to control it and that means an EBC.

 

Did you have that turbo made?

 

Just because you can doesn't mean you should.

[Skullzaflare]

A TD05 shaft can't have a TD06 wheel on it, if it did it would just be a TD06 shaft. The shaft and wheel are one piece you can't remove the wheel from the shaft.

 

A TD05 hole is too small for the CFMs that a 20G compressor wheel can push. At stock boost you are pushing about three times more air out that manifold and it has to go somewhere. You can make it go out the wastegate path and control it with an external WG after the housing but this is just too much work for what shouldn't have never been made in the first place. You need to keep your cartridge, the 20G wheel and you can keep the compressor housing. You need to buy a TD05H shaft and turbine housing from a DSM and you can port the crap out of it and still keep that wastegate actuator you have or go to an external using a downpipe as shown but this is some $$$. You'll never get that huge wheel to not cause that creep from your engine unless you keep the boost low and that wheel at low boost sucks. It still wants to run 20psi not 10. If you had a header it would be much worse.

 

You have other options. You can save that compressor housing, 20g wheel and cartridge for something else and get a smaller turbo to use with your turbine housing or get a different larger shaft like a TD05H or TD06 and turbine housing and use the cartrige, 20g wheel and compressor housing you have and retain the wastegate actuator you have now. If you go to a larger shaft or keep what you have, you're going to have to get a larger better WG path and something to control it and that means an EBC.

 

Did you have that turbo made?

 

Just because you can doesn't mean you should.

well, the exhaust wheel is 56mm indu, and 64mm ex

i have my old 20g here as well, the turbine does not fit on the 12a/14g shafts, that and the 12a/14g shafts dont fit in the 20g cartridge

no, its a generic ebay turbo with a starion 1 port wastegate and machined 14g hotside

[JohnnyWadd]

I dont know if it helped or not but i did this to my 14b to make the flapper be able to open more

http://img521.imageshack.us/img521/5624/83hood116.th.jpg

http://img13.imageshack.us/img13/125/83hood117.th.jpg

Edited January 18, 2011 by JohnnyWadd

[Shelby]

you never said what your end wants were but i have had very good results from a 20g TD05 exh wheel and extensive porting to the waste gate area.

also one of the turbo companys said they could install a 33mm flapper into a stock 12 a houseing

 

bell porting the area leading to the flaper helps more then the slight over sizeing of the hole

[Skullzaflare]

you never said what your end wants were but i have had very good results from a 20g TD05 exh wheel and extensive porting to the waste gate area.

also one of the turbo companys said they could install a 33mm flapper into a stock 12 a houseing

 

bell porting the area leading to the flaper helps more then the slight over sizeing of the hole

would a dremmel be able to accomplish this? or would i need a machine shop?

 

my goals are to eliminate the boost creep or get it where it stops at 15psi

[DieHARDmitsu.]

problem is, i cant take the mani off. the nuts are rusted to the studs, and i dont feel like repairing snapped studs again yet, mainly since its still cold out

All the other suggested methods of modifying the wastegate flapper and port sound like possible options; however,

those manifold studs/nuts are in poor condition like you say, chances are they will loosen up when you start running 15psi.

Edited January 21, 2011 by DieHARDmitsu.

[Skullzaflare]

All the other suggested methods of modifying the wastegate flapper and port sound like possible options; however,

those manifold studs/nuts are in poor condition like you say, chances are they will loosen up when you start running 15psi.

well, the 4 turbo nuts have backed off once, but the mani nuts have yet to budge

im going to try porting the hotside on my next day off, so i wont know anymore till then

[Funky Phil]

In the end youll wish you just went to a T3.

[Funky Phil]

http://store.forcedperformance.net/merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=FP&Product_Code=49178-04600&Category_Code=Turbo-Mitsu

[Scotty Dont]

http://store.forcedp...ode=Turbo-Mitsu

 

Damn that is a great deal.

[Skullzaflare]

In the end youll wish you just went to a T3.

well i have a friend thats gonna make me a manifold sometime this century, i am adding that 20g to my favorites lol. when my chinese turbo wears out, i will hopefully have the money for that by then

[Funky Phil]

Damn that is a great deal.

 

Yes sir it is! If I knew what I know now, Id have gone that route off the bat!

[ptracy26]

I purchased a 20g td06h 14cm^2 (MHI) about 4 years ago for 625.00 from TT.

Sent it to FP, swapped out to a 8cm^2 (~200.00)TY/CY, solderd the wastegate shut, spun the housing to match our piping, purchased a 35mm tial wg ~215.00. (looks like overall mines ~1,100.00)

 

sitting on a equal tub header & M7 rebuilt head. Engines being rebuilt as we speak so I Hope I like it. Keep you posted. (14cm^2 is for sale if interested - brand new - as well as the internal wg setup) -

Edited January 21, 2011 by ptracy26

[Shelby]

would a dremmel be able to accomplish this? or would i need a machine shop?

 

my goals are to eliminate the boost creep or get it where it stops at 15psi

 

 

what i use'd was an air cut off with a chuck,, and an assortment of diff cuting bits of many shapes , all in all i'd guess i remove'd almost an inch of iron from the passage to the flaper , what help is this you may ask well what does a ventura do it takes a large volume of air and forces it thro a smaller opening greatly speeding up the air low , i'd do the bell porting befor triming the flapper hole so any maring or burs can be remove'd , but if i have the money , installing a 33 mm would deff be the way to go ,,but to get the full use of that you'd need to increase the amount the flaper can open,,the is easy cut a hole above the arm and weld a plate back over it,, you just add'd 5/16" lift to the flapper

 

the next area is the remerging port at the end of the houseing out let it can also be enlarge'd a great deal

[jinx]

a chinese "20G" could be anything. Who knows what they put inside those things.

The wheel sizes listed for my chinese "T3/T4" was closer to a 20G-TD06, than to any t3/t4 wheel sizes - lol

 

Hahn Racecraft used to offer that same turbo in their "super 20" series, as Forced performance lists, but.... they offered them in 10cm or 8cm housings, with 05 or 06 turbine wheels. Additionally you could chose the actuator psi rated according to your intended boost range.

Ran $599 specials occasionally, for any flavour "20" you wanted. Good stuff imo.

I'd retain their 10cm housing as is. A g54 has more than enough lungs to spin it up quick.

 

For performance, a 20G is definitely one of my favourites, as they've represented on many different motors with standout performances;

- puny nissan ca18 engine dyno'd an amazing 474 ft-lbs, mild cam street 1.8L setup

- Hahn racecraft project 2.0L (420A motor) ET'd 11.2sec. Heavy street FWD pig

- Tort's street DSM lit up all four when the 20 hit. Integral wastegate, clipped 05 in DSM 7cm housing. ET'd 11.0sec. Although the guy who setup the car has moved onto bigger hp billet & borg warner DSMs, he still heralds the "20g" as the best all around street turbo, period.

- Rollos' "super 20G" G54 street starquest posted the quickest et(11.2sec) I can recall seeing, without nitros. Did it years ago

 

I see a pattern

[Skullzaflare]

a chinese "20G" could be anything. Who knows what they put inside those things.

The wheel sizes listed for my chinese "T3/T4" was closer to a 20G-TD06, than to any t3/t4 wheel sizes - lol

 

Hahn Racecraft used to offer that same turbo in their "super 20" series, as Forced performance lists, but.... they offered them in 10cm or 8cm housings, with 05 or 06 turbine wheels. Additionally you could chose the actuator psi rated according to your intended boost range.

Ran $599 specials occasionally, for any flavour "20" you wanted. Good stuff imo.

I'd retain their 10cm housing as is. A g54 has more than enough lungs to spin it up quick.

 

For performance, a 20G is definitely one of my favourites, as they've represented on many different motors with standout performances;

- puny nissan ca18 engine dyno'd an amazing 474 ft-lbs, mild cam street 1.8L setup

- Hahn racecraft project 2.0L (420A motor) ET'd 11.2sec. Heavy street FWD pig

- Tort's street DSM lit up all four when the 20 hit. Integral wastegate, clipped 05 in DSM 7cm housing. ET'd 11.0sec. Although the guy who setup the car has moved onto bigger hp billet & borg warner DSMs, he still heralds the "20g" as the best all around street turbo, period.

- Rollos' "super 20G" G54 street starquest posted the quickest et(11.2sec) I can recall seeing, without nitros. Did it years ago

 

I see a pattern

my 20g was for a subi, not t3/t4

[va 88 esir]

Yep, something like this:

http://vr-speed.com/store/images/DSM38M.JPG

 

That's obviously for a DSM, but the idea is the same.

 

Okay I hate to be the dumb arse. So you can use this method with the stock hotside housing? I fear running into the same problem. I have either a 16 or 20g that I put a 12a exhaust wheel on, so that I could bolt it up to the stock exhaust housing and use the stock manifold. If a downpipe like that will work, I weld the flapper shut?

[Skullzaflare]

Okay I hate to be the dumb arse. So you can use this method with the stock hotside housing? I fear running into the same problem. I have either a 16 or 20g that I put a 12a exhaust wheel on, so that I could bolt it up to the stock exhaust housing and use the stock manifold. If a downpipe like that will work, I weld the flapper shut?

with something like that you would remove the flapper, and weld the bridge hole shut