89BananaQuest Posted October 26, 2012 Report Share Posted October 26, 2012 Ok thats what i figured just wasnt 100% sure. Nowmmy next question is there any ideal length the inner and outter tie rod length? Like to make sure the steering geometry doesnt get thrown way off or any thing like that? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotty Dont Posted October 26, 2012 Report Share Posted October 26, 2012 You need to do some basic searches on google for steering geometry, but in general I kept the tie rods parallel in all aspects to my lower control arms. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Threedoor Posted October 30, 2012 Report Share Posted October 30, 2012 What is there to make a kit from??????? Buy a used 240sx k member with a rack hack off the mounts and weld them to your rack make some powersteering lines or go manual then weld some nissan u joints to youf steering rack. Well guess what, this mod requires the car to be there and a welder on hand..,you can't stick this thing together with bubblegum What is there to make a kit from? How about a starquest rack with hacked off 240sx mounts welded onto it, power steering lines, and welded up nissan u joints? This is what a "kit" is for, people with hand tools and the ability to do an installation... people with welding skills are not begging for a kit. Keith Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotty Dont Posted October 30, 2012 Report Share Posted October 30, 2012 one u-joint will have to be welded to the steering collumn. And another thing who in there right mind would want to be responsible for a mod that could greatly endanger others on the road if something failed. Hell the thing doesn't even have to fail just get into an accident (doesn't have to be your fault) and if some competent person looks at your car then whammo it's automatically your fault. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Threedoor Posted November 3, 2012 Report Share Posted November 3, 2012 My bad, you are correct... speed shops don't exist because any modified car is a death trap and they would get sued for being involved in building it. I forgot that this was how things worked and speed shops didn't exist. My bad, Keith Oh wait, silly me... speed shops DO exist.... how is that possible? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NotStock88 Posted November 3, 2012 Report Share Posted November 3, 2012 (edited) My bad, you are correct... speed shops don't exist because any modified car is a death trap and they would get sued for being involved in building it. I forgot that this was how things worked and speed shops didn't exist. My bad, Keith Oh wait, silly me... speed shops DO exist.... how is that possible? "Speed Shops" WILL do all kinds of mods/upgrades, but none of which will make the car unstable/unsafe if it were to be in an accident on the road. When you are welding on the steering shaft its considered "unsafe" and not recommended for any car being driven on the street. If a shop did things like this, they could be liable for damages/injury if something happened - thus,they dont/wont do it. There will never be a true bolt in kit. Heck, there is no bolt on kit for MPI and there are WAY more people wanting that more than this rack conversion. Plain and simple... there is always going to be something you need to figure out on your own, just like life. Edited November 3, 2012 by NotStock88 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Threedoor Posted November 3, 2012 Report Share Posted November 3, 2012 (edited) http://www.unisteer.com/category/6.html See option #5 It could be $500, it may be $1000.... beats me on price, but readily available. Keith Edited November 3, 2012 by Threedoor Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotty Dont Posted November 4, 2012 Report Share Posted November 4, 2012 The problem is the u joint on the end of the stock column is not designed for the angle need to use a steering rack, it has to be cut off and another put in its place (welded). If you are not careful the integrity of the bearing, rubber, Metal accordion etc can be compromised. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Threedoor Posted November 4, 2012 Report Share Posted November 4, 2012 The problem is the u joint on the end of the stock column is not designed for the angle need to use a steering rack, it has to be cut off and another put in its place (welded). If you are not careful the integrity of the bearing, rubber, Metal accordion etc can be compromised. Some of the sites I looked at offer a new sterring column as an option... perhaps we would have to go with that option. Keith Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drwojo Posted November 5, 2012 Report Share Posted November 5, 2012 (edited) I just got done with this swap. It is fairly labor intensive. Will be posting photos soon. But for the time being, here is my mini write up. Parts "I" used91 240sx rack91 240sx crossmemberAll pieces attached from the junkyard I.E. Lines, tie rods, mounting rings and bushings, u-joint2013 Cadillac ATS steering shaft and U-joint Tools "I" usedWrenches, ratchets and sockets of courseAngle grinder/or cut off wheelMIG welderEngine hoistJack and jack standsHaving an impact makes things a lot easier. Also for those stubborn bolts some sort of heat source. Now this is just how I did it and I am sure others will criticize how I did it but do whatever is easiest for you. Step 1: Removed motor. Step 2: Removed underdash panel Step 3: Removed steering gearbox, center draglink, tie rods, idler arms, etc Step 4: Removed steering column Step 5: Unbolted LCA's and any in the way hardware (Tension rod on drivers side for easier de-installation and re-installation) Step 6: Removed coupler. Then I cut off the heim joint like piece that is on the original steering shaft.http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t168/food28/IMG_0603.png Step 7: Welded new steering shaft and u-joint onto the original steering column end Now for the chassis side Step 8: removed cross member Step 9: Cut off original mount and stop tabs from cross member Step 10: Without destroying them, cut off original mounting rings from the 240 cross member. First take measurements of how they are mounted to re produce on the SQ cross member. Take your time here. There is some very dense material at spots and you will need to cut it up to get to the welds that need to be cut. This is the more tedious part of the job and will eat up a cutting wheel or two. Step 11: Cut any necessary notches in the original rack to accept the new mounting rings and clear the nipples that accept the lines. Step 12: Mock everything and tac into place. If it all clears finish welds.http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t168/food28/IMG_0601.png http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t168/food28/DSCN0040.jpg Now that your rack mounts are all welded up, finish bolting the rack into place. Remount the cross member. Re-install the steering column. This is way easier with a second set of hands to line up the u-joint to the splines. Re-install all suspension components. My U-joint has around 40* of angle and does not hang up at all.http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t168/food28/DSCN0039.jpg http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t168/food28/DSCN0036.jpg I re used the original PS feed and return lines as they are the same size and pitch as the 240 ones. Although the 240 lines have a O-ring, I will have to wait and see how this turns out. I honestly just got done with this an hour or so ago. I am also doing a MPI swap and will not have the motor in anytime soon. Will give a final result when it is all up and running. I'm sure I missed some parts but you can always ask. http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t168/food28/IMG_0533.jpgJust a photo for comparison of size. Will have a finished shot soon. Edited November 5, 2012 by Drwojo 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drwojo Posted November 5, 2012 Report Share Posted November 5, 2012 http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t168/food28/DSCN0044.jpg http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t168/food28/DSCN0051.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
obsolete Posted November 5, 2012 Report Share Posted November 5, 2012 Nice! Thanks for the write-up with pics. 2013 Cadillac ATS steering shaft and U-joint Snagged from work? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drwojo Posted November 5, 2012 Report Share Posted November 5, 2012 I have no idea what you are talking about. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fuze Posted November 5, 2012 Report Share Posted November 5, 2012 So why does a kit need to be made, all of the parts are available from a junk yard and some parts need to be modified on the existing car. Sure, just about anything can be done if you have access to a junkyard and time for trial and error. Most of grassroots racing is about that and a lot of us do things that way, but it's a time saver and an opportunity for somebody if the parts are offered together, that's all. Also, in the case of the steering linkage, it's also kind of a safety thing. The easier it is, the more people will do it and that's better for keeping these cars around... Just my .02 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frenchi934 Posted November 6, 2012 Report Share Posted November 6, 2012 The problem is the u joint on the end of the stock column is not designed for the angle need to use a steering rack, it has to be cut off and another put in its place (welded). If you are not careful the integrity of the bearing, rubber, Metal accordion etc can be compromised. well said scotty.Getting the angle of the column to rack without causing binding is far and above the biggest issue here. In all honesty, a properly adjusted and taken care of stock steering system has absolutely no play and is very responsive. My blue car drives as good or better than any rack / pinion car ive been in.... That being said. Im doing the conversion to accomodate an ls1/6. down the road. plenty of pictures here: http://www.starquestclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=126885&st=60 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BOOSTED88tsi Posted November 6, 2012 Report Share Posted November 6, 2012 hmm are you going to be able to get the stock lines out of the way enough for the motor to slide back in there? thats pretty cool that they work like that, ill be doing another 240 rack swap in a couple months on the new car forsure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drwojo Posted November 7, 2012 Report Share Posted November 7, 2012 (edited) Yeah. Just going to re bend them around the top of the trans and bolt them to the firewall. Just being lazy. Also cut all the factory knuckle stops to enjoy my newly found few degrees. Edited November 7, 2012 by Drwojo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Laodicea Posted November 28, 2012 Report Share Posted November 28, 2012 (edited) I did it like this. I cut off the coupler and welded a 5/8 36 spline on.Full build here http://sqperformance.forumcity.com/viewtopic.php?t=404 http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t18/gr8white1/Steering/IMAG0391.jpg I used a Honda civic manual rack, made a plate that bolts to the K-member so I can swap out later. http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t18/gr8white1/Steering/IMAG0461_zps75fd4ca4.jpg http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t18/gr8white1/Steering/IMAG0469_zpsef266033.jpg http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t18/gr8white1/Steering/IMAG0485_zps0136e98f.jpg Had to use 3 joints.... http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t18/gr8white1/Steering/IMAG0538.jpg Two problems...hard to turn for a daily driver IMO. Also the stock steering column is not rigid enough down by the firewall. A bracket needs to be made to secure it to the floorboard because when you turn it torques the tilt steering lock/stuff under there and shifts out of place. I will sell this to someone who wants to do that though...I take no liability. Edited November 28, 2012 by Laodicea Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Laodicea Posted November 28, 2012 Report Share Posted November 28, 2012 well said scotty.Getting the angle of the column to rack without causing binding is far and above the biggest issue here. Yes that was the challenge for me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Laodicea Posted November 28, 2012 Report Share Posted November 28, 2012 (edited) Ok with all that stuff up above I did. I also...am making it a bolt on 240 rack. Because with a 2JZ under the hood you have no room for the brackets to weld on to the k-member because of the oil pan clearance...it has to sit lower....also there will be no tilt to the brackets making the pinion shaft stab straight instead of leaning back towards the firewall. Meh it will still work. I should have it all in by friday and I will update on how it turns out. http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t18/gr8white1/Steering/IMAG0559.jpg http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t18/gr8white1/Steering/IMAG0556.jpg http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t18/gr8white1/Steering/IMAG0557.jpg http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t18/gr8white1/Steering/IMAG0563.jpg Edited November 28, 2012 by Laodicea Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nasteboyii Posted December 8, 2013 Report Share Posted December 8, 2013 (edited) laodicea... you totally beat me to this post...(buy about a year ) i used a integra auto steering rack on my 2jz conquest setup. i to have the bind in the universal joints, and the steering column needs more support in the firewall area (im still in process of doing this setup/working out the bugs) i had to shorten the outer tie rods, and i used 2 universal joins plus the factory column one is still there as well (not sure if thats hurting me yet or not)only reason i used a auto rack was because i had it laying around, i ll prob convert to manual laterim totally jealous of the lathe usages... i could make some many more cool toys i love the write ups guys. just wanted to quickly throw my 2 cents in theregood luck to allDan Edited December 8, 2013 by nasteboyii Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Laodicea Posted December 9, 2013 Report Share Posted December 9, 2013 I am not using that Honda manual setup....I made the 240 rack work. Here is that write up http://www.26liter.us/forum/index.php?topic=5866.0 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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