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mine go way lower than that. Did you follow the "cut and weld" proedure that somebody posted on this forum?

 

Here's a picture of mine, and I still have a few more inches to drop if I wanted to:

 

http://i1210.photobucket.com/albums/cc409/motocam360/88%20Quest/88wheels.jpg

 

http://i1210.photobucket.com/albums/cc409/motocam360/88%20Quest/88wheels3.jpg

 

car is clean. get some spacers on there and make it stand better.. what percent is your tint?

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Thanks for the compliments guys.... I was really trying to get it ready for Mesquite, but ran out of time.

 

I will look into the wheel spacers.

 

The tint is 5%. I have already been pulled over by the cops 3 times and I've only had the car for 2 months, but they didn't seem to care about the tint. The were more concerned with it being possibly stolen.......bright yellow certainly draws attention.

 

Tim

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  • 1 month later...

yeah I hit my front's lowering limit because I didn't cut enough of the old tube off. This winter they are getting redone again...you need to redo yours too. Find a really good shop that can cut the weld (but not the tube behind it) and cut off some old tube and reweld.

 

-Justin

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  • 2 months later...

The main thing I see in this thread is people who have the shocks saying they rock, and people who don't have them saying "what about empirical testing" I have a simple solution!

 

Shock dyno testing cost between $30 and $60 for a set of four adjustable shocks. Anyone who hasn't installed their shocks yet, I will pay half on dyno testing of the shocks if you post up your shock dyno graphs here. If you can afford $1000 shocks you can afford $15 to $30 for testing (frankly, you can afford the full $60). If you have already gotten yours tested and didn't share the information then I'm not going to pay you to post up your results, and shame on you for keeping secrets! :)

 

If nobody takes me up on this offer, when I purchase mine (and I will be purchasing eventually) I will have it done myself and post up my results. It isn't like I will be standing in my garage welder in hand waiting for them to arrive so I can install them and drive on them that day... a few days for testing is no skin off my nose.

 

Heck, if there are wide variations between shocks we can set up a database and a shock exchange program! But if that is the case they would all need to be tested on the same equipment using the same process.

 

Just a thought,

 

Keith

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The main thing I see in this thread is people who have the shocks saying they rock, and people who don't have them saying "what about empirical testing" I have a simple solution!

 

D2's come with individual shock dyno sheets for each coilover, right inside the box. The people who don't know that don't have them ;) LOL

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After reading various articles on performance suspensions, I think I'm a little too skeptical on these kits. Check out this Far North Racing article I stumbled upon while researching suspension replacement options for my DSM: http://farnorthracin...s_secrets6.html and this http://farnorthracin..._secrets18.html

 

Two quotes that deeply concern me:

 

" * Bilstein

* Penske

* Koni

* Ohlins

* Sachs

* Dynamic Suspension

 

Not on this list? Almost certainly crap."

 

"You must, must, must have dyno plots for your shocks - and not just 'typical' plots, but the actual performance of each of your shocks. "

 

I think its worth looking into. Over a G for a set of coilovers? Hard to swallow after reading this article. At least for me if I didn't know the shock and rebound characteristics.

 

D2's come with individual shock dyno sheets for each coilover, right inside the box. The people who don't know that don't have them ;) LOL

All this controversy over NOTHING????

 

Thats the internet for you! Seven pages half of the post people laying out pics of cool looking setups and the other half arguing over weather or not shocks without a dyno sheet are sold in balanced sets and weather or not shocks without dyno sheets are worth a grand, when all this time dyno sheets were a non-issue.

 

<sigh>

 

Keith

Edited by Threedoor
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All this controversy over NOTHING????

 

<sigh>

 

Keith

 

 

HAHAHAHA, you said it. I don't know why nobody said anything about it, probably most people don't look through all the materials in the box. Mine were inside a brochure. ;)

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I jus ordered a set of these tonight, yay tax returns!! I'm pretty stoked. the suspension is the only thing keeping me from driving my starion. And people seem to love them. i havent driven the car for over a year now so I'm pretty freaking excited.
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  • 1 month later...
  • 2 weeks later...

I had the rokkor on my cabby, and I would never put them on a starquest

 

My friend has them on a subaru and the other on an RSX...they're adjusted all the way down on the rsx and half on the subie and ride amazing, handle excellent, take potholes like champs. I love them.

 

Now, I have heard of issues with VWs...but...they're VWs. If you can afford to keep a VW maintained, you buy the expensive stuff :P

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  • 3 months later...

 

My friend has them on a subaru and the other on an RSX...they're adjusted all the way down on the rsx and half on the subie and ride amazing, handle excellent, take potholes like champs. I love them.

 

Now, I have heard of issues with VWs...but...they're VWs. If you can afford to keep a VW maintained, you buy the expensive stuff :P

 

This is coming from a kid who had a slammed SRT-4 with sleeve-overs...sold the car to me, and I now have serious back problems due to the quality of the ride.

 

lol

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  • 5 months later...

Fuze, best of both worlds. Mookeeh made a very small number of these, but they are out there...

 

Pillow ball, and adjustable (just not that easily)

 

http://26liter.us/gallery/albums/userpics/10030/P2120325.jpg

http://26liter.us/gallery/albums/userpics/10030/P1310256.jpg

http://26liter.us/gallery/albums/userpics/10030/P1310255.jpg

 

Do you mean these?

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/MK1-Starion-Rear-Adjustable-Pillow-Ball-Camber-Plates-/380542290348?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Model%3AStarion&hash=item589a1689ac&vxp=mtr

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  • 8 months later...
  • 1 year later...

Finally posting in this thread after buying d2s a couple months ago. Have had them in for about two weeks now but couldnt get the rear low enough to match the fronts without rolling the fenders so the rear fenders are partially rolled now, this is how it sits as of right now with 9s all around. 245/50 rear, 225/50 front. Front wheels are on max camber until I roll the front fenders. Still havnt decided if I want to run the 9s because I have two 7s, I love the look and the grip but turning the wheel when the car is stationary is pretty hard with my stupid little steering wheel.

http://i.imgur.com/WKQXAlh.jpg

Edited by tankbob
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looks good.... anyone else had d2's on long enough for them to seize and not be able to raise or lower car properly? :wacko:

what's the best method to free them up?

PB blaster usually does the trick for me in those kind of situations.

 

Also rolled my fenders today and noticed that not painting the tube on the front coilovers was a bad idea. I painted the spindle and weld thinking the tube was aluminum or stainless steel but its already rusted :angry:

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