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so what rear camber plates does everyone use? I was going to buy the Mookeeh ones. What kind of modifications do camber plates need to work with the d2's? I'm hoping/assuming that I just switch the top plates, but I have a feeling it's not that easy :lol:

 

-Justin

using mk1 non adjustable camber plates...yea just switch the tophats...my setup is on pg3

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Kane, I definitely agree with that, but one of the main points of the article is "matching" struts together based on their performance characteristics. One example given in the article I linked above is that he would get a bulk order of Koni struts and dyno each one and start matching them together in sets. The adjustable valves just helped him to better match them together.

 

So essentially, I would be looking for each strut to behave closely to the other 3 because you don't want different shock and rebound rates on each corner of the car.

 

So, stick with what you've got. It's not like you have more than one coilover option for the Starion besides using the stock style struts with a GC kit, or the leftover MK1 kits on eBay. I paid $950, but if I have paid 3X that, I guess I'd be looking for some of the documentation you describe.

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In optimal scenario's, your drift a little and drag a little will require two very different spring rates.

 

Don't want that stiff feel? Go with spring rates around 350/300-400/350ish.

 

I test fitted a set of Ground Control Eibach springs on the D2's and they slide right on. If a specific rate is needed, GC sells anything you want down to a single spring.

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  • 2 weeks later...
i've got a set of these coming to me here in australia, afaik no-one here has them yet, we had a group buy organised which i am getting mine through..
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well through all the arguing i have a question.

 

HOW DO THE REARS MOUNT? i have seen plenty of the fronts but non of the rears. and as far as caster camber plates are they needed? and what is the best bang for buck if they plates are needed.

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  • 1 month later...

Who has driven the most miles on these?

how are they holding up?

like to see some more feed back on the performance, how soft or firm they are.

do they chatter your teeth or are they daily driver manageable.

 

Thnaks,

 

I only drive my car on weekends but Im very happy, firmer than stock definitely, I havent messed with adjustable preload or whatever so Im sure it can be alot stiffer once you turn that up. TONS better than the MK1/cosmo set up I had before(I shouldnt have wasted my money on those)

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  • 2 months later...

Whats wrong with running the D2 rear tophats?

 

no camber adjustment.

 

-Justin

 

True, but in reality unless you modify the strut mounts, there's barely any room to adjust with the size of the stock locknuts. I had the MK1 rear plates and you could move the tops of the struts only a small amount,barely noticeable and nothing like the front plates. The benefit of the D2 non adjustable rear mounts is they are pillow ball mounts.

Edited by Fuze
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Fuze, best of both worlds. Mookeeh made a very small number of these, but they are out there...

 

Pillow ball, and adjustable (just not that easily)

 

http://26liter.us/gallery/albums/userpics/10030/P2120325.jpg

http://26liter.us/gallery/albums/userpics/10030/P1310256.jpg

http://26liter.us/gallery/albums/userpics/10030/P1310255.jpg

  • Like 1
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Well, I finally got mine rolling after putting the car on jack stands back in September. I have to say that I am pleasantly surprised! I thought that the springs were going to be too stiff for our cars, but I was proven wrong. For 90% of the road, the car doesn't not ride much stiffer than stock springs with KYBs. However, you WILL feel big bumps although when taken at speed the shocks do a really good job of keeping the car settled and smooth.
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  • 4 weeks later...

I have to say, I'm pretty darn happy with how they handle right out of the box! I had to completely re-learn how to drive my car because the steering response was drastically improved and the car became a great deal more balanced both on and off the throttle. A few key things to note:

 

*Steering response greatly improved. Car turns in approximately a foot sooner than I'm used to. This has lead to some cone death at the autocrosses!

 

*Car balance coming out of the corner on power is great. Where the car would formerly try to over steer, it now hunches down and hooks. Some slight rotation is detected.

 

*Car balance under braking is greatly improved. Formerly when driving at the limit, braking would result in the car under steering. Now a slight application of brake will often cause the front to bite and make the car rotate in.

 

*Overall car behavior is acceptable. I did find I have to run higher tire pressures. Otherwise with tire pressure around 38 front and 36 rear, the car has a tendency to hop while going through hard corners. This has not resulted in the car snap steering yet, but it certainly doesn't make it quicker!

 

This is as bad as the body roll ever gets. Notice the cone death!

http://maxzillian.com/autox/6-5-5.jpg

 

Very little dive under hard braking.

http://maxzillian.com/autox/6-5-4.jpg

 

Just a touch of oppo. ;)

http://maxzillian.com/autox/6-5-1.jpg

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Yup, despite my previous assumptions that they were too stiff, I'm actually very happy with the springs. Yeah, they feel pretty stiff at slow speeds, but at anything over 40 mph they're surprisingly smooth and feel very good on the course. Edited by Maxzillian
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  • 2 months later...

Has anybody blown front tires out running D2s yet? I've been daily driving mine for 4 weeks and tonight I entered a steep driveway slowly at a 45 degree approach. 10 seconds later my tire popped like a gunshot. I inspected the tire once off the car and the inner sidewall looks like it's been sliced. I notice wear marks on the adjustment nut of the D2.... The car sits 3-4" off the ground, so there's plenty of adjustment left in the D2s...

 

The tires I am running are 215 50s on the stock 7" rims

 

curious if anybody else has experienced this?

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  • 1 month later...

This is as low as the fronts get with my D2's, the rears can go way lower.

 

http://i461.photobucket.com/albums/qq338/steevo_102/100_5164.jpg

 

I actually wanna be able to go at least an inch lower. I'm kinda disappointed.

Is there any other possible way to go lower without lowering the spring? This is killin me.

 

*I tried making the picture smaller but it doesn't want to stay that way*

Edited by doomviillain
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mine go way lower than that. Did you follow the "cut and weld" proedure that somebody posted on this forum?

 

Here's a picture of mine, and I still have a few more inches to drop if I wanted to:

 

http://i1210.photobucket.com/albums/cc409/motocam360/88%20Quest/88wheels.jpg

 

http://i1210.photobucket.com/albums/cc409/motocam360/88%20Quest/88wheels3.jpg

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