everything D2 coilover

[JustPaus_88TSi]

http://www.clubwrx.net/forums/suspension-wheels/110549-d2-coilovers-anybody-have-any-solid-information.html

 

http://clubroadster.net/vb_forum/showthread.php?t=28059

 

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=316407&view=findpost&p=5183492

[TsTKl]

MODS can we get this thread cleaned up

 

This is the suspenion and brake MODS, not questions. just like in the engine mods forum no question. take them to pm's or the BS section. If you DO NOT have D2 coilovers on your car dont post, period.

 

as to yet another 101 hater, this is ALL bout D2 coilovers not 101.

 

And so some member can find the info they are looking for, mention how you intend on using your setup. Like just to go low. On the drag strip. And scca/road corse

 

I think the point of this forum is for people to learn, and you can only learn by asking questions or by making mistakes. Since I'd rather ask questions than make a 1000 dollar mistake, I'll stick to typing. I think it would help if you re-read this forum to realize we are simply asking for the performance of a subjective part, not attacking the designer or owners of the specific product. As for the engine section having no questions, that is most likely due to the fact that most engine related questions would be redundent and searching old posts would yeild an answer. If this is seriously a forum were asking questions isn't allowed it would seem pretty pointless for me to be here then.

 

 

http://www.clubwrx.net/forums/suspension-wheels/110549-d2-coilovers-anybody-have-any-solid-information.html

 

http://clubroadster.net/vb_forum/showthread.php?t=28059

 

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=316407&view=findpost&p=5183492

 

thanks for posting those, and I've read a lot of similar stuff out there, it seems like D2 is an up and coming company and most people will be happy with where their 1000 dollars went. there are variances from car to car though, and in my opinion the starquest is a particularly unusual beast when it comes to handling characteristcs. This being the case, something that will work on one car might not work so well on another. I was hoping for some dynos as well as first hand experience from people who have bought these and installed them on a starquest because I'd like to see the quality of the shock, since thats what does the majority of the maintaining the contact patch traction etc. I personally am leaning towards something completely custom, however if the D2's prove to be high quality products it would save me a lot of time and headache to just nab a set of them.

[JustPaus_88TSi]

Yeah, I saw a lot more reviews but they were FWD oriented so I didn't link them.

 

If you want actual track talk, I think the Australian guys would be a better group to talk to. They have more people there that circuit track their cars, and D2 has been available over there for some time now.

[Pirana]

got a question...on the welding. Isn't it an aluminum body welded into a cast spindle?

[spoolinturbo]

im glad you guys are liking them. im still months away from seeing how mine rides, probably spring time. so far all my suspension components are almost complete.

 

master poly

adjustable tension rods

d2's

sway bars on the way

brakes on the way

 

once i get rebuild the rear end ill slap all of this on, and figure out steering as well.

 

for anyone inquiring about purchasing the kit, u can call d2 up directly at any time.

 

as for the price arguement...this is a quality coilover kit my friend, very good price. and you cant compare a streetable suspension setup that u can use quite well in most races with a 3-5k dollar track setup. have u ever driven a track tuned car on city streets? doesnt work. and your quoting an article from 'far north racing'...never heard of them. and suspension is tuned to each individual car, no such thing as plug and play...all of them have to be dialed in with ride height, rebound stiffness, spring rates ect.

 

ps i will cross balance my car as well and attempt to acheive 51/49 weight distro

 

pps not knowing the performance of these? im sorry but just because u cant find the data does not mean its not there. call d2 and they will send u performance statistics of the struts as they were sent through testing prior to development...i should know.

[Maxzillian]

I'm glad to see those reviews. Makes me feel more confident in my decision.

 

Hopefully in the next coming month I'll have mine installed. I have a sneaky suspicion that it'll be after the autox season is over though. :\

[87quest-TSI]

got a question...on the welding. Isn't it an aluminum body welded into a cast spindle?

 

No. It's steel to steel.

[Cloud81918]

I don't own the D2s, but I have history with another car brand and was once sponsored by a "cheap" set of coilover brand. I ran into a lot of people talking crap about the company sponsoring me in my autocross endeavors. they'd talk about them being too cheap and that they probably weren't any good. But the numbers didn't lie. I was faster with them.

 

I'm out of my sponsorship and can say what ever I want now. I thought they were good for the price. Even though I got them for free, I would have paid asking price for them if I knew I was getting such a great suspension. Yeah they aren't Motons, but the car in question was much like the Starquest in the lack of suspension options. We were especially damper-poor and the coilovers had better dampers than we could get other wise.

 

This may not bring a lot into the D2 talk, but I think it is important to look at what you have out there. The D2s look in my eyes to be a great suspension for the hobbyist. The may not be the best ever, but at a bit over $1000 they seem like a good deal for an adjustable suspension with better than stock damping and swappable coils.

 

That said I decided against the D2 for now. My Conquest is going to be a street car and I'll save a bit of green and make a more relaxing road ride. But If I were interested in making a hardercore Starquest, I'd be purchasing some D2.

[Dave-O]

Just remember folks, anything purpose-built is gonna be custom-built, and when it's custom-built it's not cheap.

[conquestador89]

finished installing d2's...need to adjust camber in front,add bigger spacer and get smaller tires...specs on wheels are:

front: mb battle 17x9.5+15 25mm ichiba spacer fender rolled

rear: mb battle 18x9.5+15 55mm spacer fender rolled and flared

http://i473.photobucket.com/albums/rr91/conquestador619/CopyofCopyofCopyofPicture008-1.jpg

http://i473.photobucket.com/albums/rr91/conquestador619/CopyofCopyofCopyofPicture007.jpg

http://i473.photobucket.com/albums/rr91/conquestador619/CopyofCopyofCopyofPicture006.jpg

http://i473.photobucket.com/albums/rr91/conquestador619/CopyofCopyofCopyofPicture003.jpg

Edited October 6, 2010 by conquestador89

[Maxzillian]

I finally got my hands on a set of flatty strut housings and finished welding them up today. I ended up leaving behind about 2-2.5" of the original tubes to provide some additional support since my application will be for racing. Hopefully it'll do a good job of distributing the load across the strut tubes.

 

Tomorrow I should be able to begin work on seeing what conglomeration of parts I need to use to make everything line up right. While I technically need to do the lower control arms and engine cradle, I believe I can dial out the difference in the engine cradles through the camber plates. Fingers crossed!

Edited October 20, 2010 by Maxzillian

[Caliber308]

Does anyone know if D-2 will sell just the fronts ?

 

Bill

[Pirana]

I just got my new set...now just waiting for install

[Maxzillian]

I doubt many will want to do this, but here is how the coil overs look when using flatty lower control arms and strut housings with an 8" rear wheel and 225/50-16 tire.

 

http://maxzillian.com/starion/coilover7.jpg

 

http://maxzillian.com/starion/coilover8.jpg

 

http://maxzillian.com/starion/coilover4.jpg

[sellerfeller]

i've put over 6,000 miles on my D2's and couldn't be happier with them!

much improved ride and handling over the tired stock units.

will be purchasing another set for my 88 palermo gray in the near future.

 

http://www.imagehostplus.com/v2/usr/1853/102510aY_010.jpg

 

http://www.imagehostplus.com/v2/usr/1853/102510aY_016.jpg

[dem0ntsi]

i've put over 6,000 miles on my D2's and couldn't be happier with them!

much improved ride and handling over the tired stock units.

will be purchasing another set for my 88 palermo gray in the near future.

 

http://www.imagehostplus.com/v2/usr/1853/102510aY_010.jpg

 

http://www.imagehostplus.com/v2/usr/1853/102510aY_016.jpg

 

Wow you went really low.. hows the ride with it that low? Did you have to adjust anything? I lowered my rear a couple of inches and it became so bouncy that its dangerous to ride on the interstate, I would hit a bump and it would buck me out of the seat and Id hit my head on the roof lol.. Im thinking I did something wrong or I need to adjust something.. any advice would be great. Thanks!

[sellerfeller]

Wow you went really low.. hows the ride with it that low? Did you have to adjust anything? I lowered my rear a couple of inches and it became so bouncy that its dangerous to ride on the interstate, I would hit a bump and it would buck me out of the seat and Id hit my head on the roof lol.. Im thinking I did something wrong or I need to adjust something.. any advice would be great. Thanks!

 

lol... man, i did the same thing. i figure i should have fessed up to begin with but oh well.

i've been bucked out of the seat and hit the roof too. i hear ya, it's not very safe or fun.

mine probably rides similar to how yours did before you lowered the rear... dang good. lowering it the correct way doesn't change the ride quality, it shortens the coil-overs.

what you did was lower the spring on the unit. you'll need to raise the two purple collars that you lowered back to their original position. this will keep the spring in position and not allow all the rebound that bucks us to the roof and over-extension of the unit.

to lower them correctly, loosen the black nut (the one at the bottom of all the threads) then turn it and turn it as you did the purple collars until you've moved it up the distance you want to lower the car. now you screw the threaded section of the coil-overs down into the lower body until the nut that you raised makes contact with the lower section again. tighten nut.

 

if all else fails, read your instructions.. i finally did. what i've tried to describe is illustrated.

sometimes we just have to learn the hard way.

[dem0ntsi]

lol... man, i did the same thing. i figure i should have fessed up to begin with but oh well.

i've been bucked out of the seat and hit the roof too. i hear ya, it's not very safe or fun.

mine probably rides similar to how yours did before you lowered the rear... dang good. lowering it the correct way doesn't change the ride quality, it shortens the coil-overs.

what you did was lower the spring on the unit. you'll need to raise the two purple collars that you lowered back to their original position. this will keep the spring in position and not allow all the rebound that bucks us to the roof and over-extension of the unit.

to lower them correctly, loosen the black nut (the one at the bottom of all the threads) then turn it and turn it as you did the purple collars until you've moved it up the distance you want to lower the car. now you screw the threaded section of the coil-overs down into the lower body until the nut that you raised makes contact with the lower section again. tighten nut.

 

if all else fails, read your instructions.. i finally did. what i've tried to describe is illustrated.

sometimes we just have to learn the hard way.

 

 

I hear you lol.. but unfortunately my instructions got lost. I guess Ill call D2 to see if they have some they can send me

[MoltoMario]

I hear you lol.. but unfortunately my instructions got lost. I guess Ill call D2 to see if they have some they can send me

 

Demon all you need to do is twist the threaded part into the control arm. You dont twist the spring at all. That adjusts the preload. The threaded part of the shock goes into the control arm itself.

 

If you look theres the bottom green collar. Loosen that then twist the whole shock itself. Simple. Im damn sure the D2s are 2 way adjustable, no way they are single way like sleeve overs

 

http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b125/MoltoMario/DSC_0314.jpg

Edited November 1, 2010 by MoltoMario

[Scotty Dont]

I thought some talk about suspension setup would help this thread rather then "whah whah I don't want to spend $1000 on blah blah blah"

 

There are 2 kinds of springs. Progressive, and Linear.

 

With progressive springs, as they compress the lighter rate coils compress, and force higher rate colis into action. Effectively increasing spring rate as they are compressed. Stock 240sx springs are progressive. (most stock springs are.) This type of spring is good for street driving b/c they are comfortable over small bumps, but tighten up as you start turning, or braking harder.

 

Linear springs are the same spring rate no matter how much they are compressed. Almost all coilover systems come with linear rate springs. Linear springs are much better for sport driving, b/c they are much mroe predictable, and make tuning your suspension much easier.

 

You can only preload springs with threaded shock body coilovers.

 

To preload a spring, you compress it b/w the upper and lower spring perches by adjusting the lower collar with the spanner wrench.

 

With linear springs:

When you put the weight of a corner of a car (probably around 700lbs) over your spring it compresses to absorb that weight. With 400lb spring, it will compress about 1 3/4". So, if you start with the lower collar so that it is just tight enough to hold the top of the spring against the upper perch this would be 0 preload. Raise the collar 1 3/4", and you now have 700lb's of preload. (arbitrary #'s for the sake of illustration.) Since you have preloaded the spring, the same weight as the car's corner, when you put the car on that spring, it will not compress at all, and will simply sit on top of the spring. If you were to hit a bump, the force would still compress the spring the same amount it normally would if you had set the spring to 0 preload. Now if you set the spring to say 900lbs of preload, when you hit the bump (say its a bump that generates around 250lbs of upward force), the spring will compress much less b/c the spring is already beyond the load specified to absorb the bump. Since there is only 50lbs beyond the preload, the spring will only compress about 1/8th inch, and the car will likely be launched over the bump.

 

You will likely never ever preload a spring beyond the weight of the corner of the car it is on for that exact reason. Springs are there to absorb bumps, if there are any bumps at all, this is a bad idea.

 

What good is preloading the spring then?

 

It can provide you with more suspension travel in certain situations. In the ideal world, having the spring at 0 preload would place the piston inside the shock exactly halfway through it's stroke (middle of shock) once the car's weight is resting on the spring. This is almost never the case. by preloading the spring, you can adjust the amount of rebound, or compression travel you have in the shock. If you preload like 200lbs, this will give you more compression travel, and will help keep your car from bottoming out when cornering. You have to be careful though, b/c you don't want to sacrifice too much rebound travel, or you could cause all sorts of other problems.

 

Progressive springs:

With progressive springs, preloading the spring does all the same things as linear springs, but it also increases the initial rate of the spring. So say you have a spring with a 200lb/in initial rate, and a 400lb/in max rate. (all progressive springs are rated this way.) Preloading 200lb's will compress the spring just under 1". Since the rate goes up with a function, it will have increased to probably somewhere around 250lb/in by the time you reach a 200lb preload. So now your initial rate is 250lb/in, with a max 0f 400lb/in.

 

You will likely never deal with this though, b/c very few coilover systems come with progressive springs, and remember you can't preload without adjustable spring perches. (coilovers)

[sellerfeller]

Demon all you need to do is twist the threaded part into the control arm. You dont twist the spring at all. That adjusts the preload. The threaded part of the shock goes into the control arm itself.

 

If you look theres the bottom green collar. Loosen that then twist the whole shock itself. Simple. Im damn sure the D2s are 2 way adjustable, no way they are single way like sleeve overs

 

http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b125/MoltoMario/DSC_0314.jpg

 

the bottom collar on the D2's are black.

[mitsumadness]

Thanks Maxzillian! Your post actually answered what I was wondering over here in Australia... how these would go on the narrow bodies, or 'flatties' cos I have an amateur level flatty track car and am keen to give these a go!

 

I doubt many will want to do this, but here is how the coil overs look when using flatty lower control arms and strut housings with an 8" rear wheel and 225/50-16 tire.

 

[dem0ntsi]

Thanks guys, I redid the rear ride height yesterday the correct way and its 100% better.. did any of you start playing around with the rebound/dampening settings yet?

[smallblock12]

how much adjustability can you get out of the without lowering the spring perch. because i know a while back mario said he could only go about 2 inches before lowering the spring perch. i would like to know if it is better than my mr2 insert setup

[NudeLobster]

so what rear camber plates does everyone use? I was going to buy the Mookeeh ones. What kind of modifications do camber plates need to work with the d2's? I'm hoping/assuming that I just switch the top plates, but I have a feeling it's not that easy

 

-Justin