scott87star

I’ve had several G54 cars, always used Amsoil with only an annual change regardless of mileage, never any issues. I used to do the oil analysis on the used oil but quit as there were never any wear material in it nor did TBN deplete. There certainly were oil threads active during the 2000’s, probably all lost with the many site crashes/hosting changes. Everyone used different brands and weights with success, I believe that means a well maintained motor didn’t really care what you used, as long as they have good oil pressure the G54 will last hundreds of thousands miles. I’ve got 160k+ on my 87 Starion with a stock bottom end, I recall several members were over 300k without a rebuild.

It’s got an odd plastic gasket that I’ve never replaced after dumping the fuel out several times. No leaks yet. I would first siphon as much as you can out of the fill port as it can get messy once you drop the plug.

Growling or clicking? There was a TSB on clicking from the rear nubs. If growling I’d try a bunch of figure 8’s in a parking lot to see if it subsides.

We can try koyo, I’ll take one to a professional packer if you’re willing to pay the price.

They were Wilwood pads, I had a spare set I just gave away.

Pull the OVCP and have someone look for fuel spraying in the TB while cranking, injector clips are notorious for this issue even though you’ve visually checked them. Rereading I see where you know the injectors aren’t spraying, you can use a 9V battery to test them, maybe the primary is plugged. You can force fluid in the opposite direction to clean out any debris.

No, the lower arm unbolts from both the pivot point where you’re going to put new bushings and the ball joint. Then the strut bar unbolts from the strut bar bracket where you’re going to put new bushings and the lower control arm. The poly bushings are slip fit so no special tools, just grease well with marine grade to slow washout. The old rubber bush on the lca come out easily with a propane torch.

Hello!

When putting voltmeter + on the other pin on the primary or secondary clip and voltmeter - on negative battery cable i get a slow and steady discharge from 5-6v down to 0, which makes sense since the voltage is discharging/getting used This makes no sense, you should have constant 12.4 on each terminal key on, the ECU briefly grounds the injectors to fire them, so brief you’d never see it without an oscilloscope. Recheck to confirm. Also the injector resistors don’t alter voltage, they limit current.

I like it Randy!

Injectors don’t care which way they are wired, it is best practice to do it the same for troubleshooting. It sounds to me like you’ve got debris in the pintle of one or both, happened to me years ago with my 87. I had to remove both injectors and flush them backwards to finally fix it after several failed test drives.

My 87 has run a wideband O2 mounted in the factory spot for 30K plus miles without issue, still working fine. If you’re still running the factory ECU you can run the narrow band output from the wideband ( most have them) to the ECU.

Hey Nick, good to hear from you!

It can be the ABS system as well, that module is in the rear hatch.

Still have 3 in AZ.