BKB94

Redhead unfortunately is not what it was 10 years ago. Lots of poor customer service reports for bad steering boxes. Might be your only option though. Check with blue top and see if they will touch it. Although blue top is having staffing issues themselves since no one seems to want to work anymore.

Think spec is .040 thread exposed on gland nut when tight. Best method is to find pipe that fits the nub on the bottom of the strut and make a spacer like they were when new. Maybe post pictures, don’t understand why no one ever post pictures. the struts on the left are missing the spacers that came with the Bilstein strut inserts, ones on the right have them on. Do you have those on? Either way that's what you need and how you would want to fix this issue. Machine shop might do this for you but not worth their time. Unless KYB are totally different, every cut a strut I have done has a nub on the bottom for spacers.

Would also get rid of the MSD unit, or at least remove it for testing.

What year? Any pictures of these sensors and wiring? It’s common for igniters and even coils to have electrical issues when the heat up. You could test it with a heat gun and see if you get now spark on a cold engine.

Most of the SEM bumper and trim paints want many very light coats with generous flash times. What you posted looks like what I have seen from wet coats. I do 3 dust coats maybe 12-24hrs between coats, it’s a chemical process that bonds.

List what SEM product you are using and temps you are spraying at.

Why not just buy universal and replace everything. I have less then 1k buying a new compressor, all hoses, fittings and dryer plus crimping tool. No more dealing with old junk.

I bought 2 kits off Amazon. Just look at the sizes and it seems there are 2 common metric sizes from the kits I looked at. Think it was under $30 for both kits. Weird part is the larger the o-ring even if it fits the worse my micron rating while pulling a vacuum. It seemed if the tubes slipped together with slight drag from the o-ring it sealed better.

You would need to have custom 1/2 shafts made. A few ways to make that happen. The ford shafts could be shortened and re-splined to fit your stock outers. Cut both shafts sleeve and weld, getto but I have done it a few times with zero failures. Have a complete driveshaft shop custom shafts made.

Mounting the pumpkin is the easy part. Really wonder if that place ever completed anything and had working proof of concepts front or rear. I guess we may never know.

If you’re going to modify it and require a new driveshaft then you go with one of the many versions of the Ford 8.8. They are cheap available in all aluminum or cast, cheap unlimited gear ratios, clutch style, spools, torsion diffs. Lots of room underneath to mount it and have custom driveshaft and half shafts made.

SEM bumper black. It has the adhesion promoters in it that are needed for plastic parts.

I ended up ordering a small truck load of stereo equipment. Updating the mustang and truck systems and the quest needed something. The 5.0 is the true music so this is all that's going in the Quest. I wanted keyless entry with a nice remote, apple car play, backup camera. Must say this is so far the sadist sounding system I have heard in a while. Hope sealing them off and adding door panels helps, I never add rear staging but this thing might need it. I'm prepping for paint but took it for one more drive, a bit cold and the heat wasn't helping. This might be the last update for a while. I think the next time you see this turd it will be done. Still need to clean out my dads barn and build a paint booth. These cars have way to many parts to paint. Unfortunately my truck died and its pretty major, might be pulling the engine. This puts me in a jam since I need the truck to clean out the barn and take all my stuff over.

Stock is 21mm this is 26mm ( .197 inch larger ) but I would say the heat treatment must also be massively different since the ST bar is significantly stronger.

To the best of my knowledge, it is