TSIboostman Posted April 1, 2014 Report Share Posted April 1, 2014 so I am thinking about maybe lowering the temperature ranges for which the fans cut themselves on. I bugged DAD (on the forums today) about why my secondary fan did not cut on and either I did not understand on how to test them out of I was just confused. Anyway, I went through a lot of stuff I did not have too which included test their relays and the fan motors themselves. They work off of a ground and then they kick themselves on, I have never seen my secondary fan cut itself on but my primary runs a lot when the temperature hits its standard switch limit. My question is are there part numbers to reduce the thermo switches down to a lower level to cut themselves on or could you just buy a 90 degree C instead of the current 100 degree C and will it work? I have seen the hack job of running them together but I am not really interested in doing that. When I grounded the secondary thermo switch wire to the neg battery cable with the ignition key on the fan kicked on but the pusher part did not. I am basically wanting to make sure that my secondary will kick on and make sure that my car will not over heat. I have been watching it but in traffic which is stopped or go situations, the temp needle goes to around middle the primary kicks on and it holds it constant. When I drive or am at speed the temperature gauge runs around a quarter on the meter which I think it should be at. Basically, what thermo stat temperature sensor would work for the secondary in order to kick it on at a lower temperature? I guess I did not understand dads procedure but the wire is what you ground and not the thermo sensor. Also should the pusher come on with it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ucw458 Posted April 1, 2014 Report Share Posted April 1, 2014 Running them together is not a hack job. How people go about wiring it and protecting the wires can be a hack job though. Running them together shortens cooling time and aids in summer cooling when in traffic. You will almost never see the secondary turn on. The coolant has to get to 212 degrees before it turns on. The primary turns on @ 185 degrees. The only other time you see all 3 come on is when the AC is on. You can ground the switches at the bottom of the radiator to test the fans. One on each side controls the fan above it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TSIboostman Posted April 2, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 2, 2014 that is what I was saying, what if you used a lower temperature switch that completes the ground at 10-15 degrees less than the 212 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ucw458 Posted April 2, 2014 Report Share Posted April 2, 2014 Why not hook all 3 fans together? Only takes one 6" wire spliced between the relays. Then use the 212 degree switch to activate a buzzer inside the car for an audible overheating warning. You are more likely to catch it in time with an audible warning. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TSIboostman Posted April 2, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 2, 2014 the car does not over heat, now but I am just wanting to make sure it is ok especially with summer coming on. It will as hot this summer as it was cold this past winter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TexasQuest Posted April 2, 2014 Report Share Posted April 2, 2014 I run 2 primary fan temp switches so they both come on at the same time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scott87star Posted April 2, 2014 Report Share Posted April 2, 2014 I ran the stock set up in Houston all the time, stuck in stop and go traffic, waiting in line to pick up my kids from day care, A/C running constantly, blah blah blah. If it's working don't change things, but if its not then fix it. I saw 1/2 on the gauge frequently but I'll be the first person to tell you that I have no clue what that actually means in terms of coolant temp, you have to KNOW if you want to make changes. Once you know what it is and what you want then worry about what to do. Crap, am I sounding like Shelby? Someone shoot me! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
averse Posted April 2, 2014 Report Share Posted April 2, 2014 If your main issue is worrying about it working when Summer comes on, it seems to make sense to just wait until Summer comes on and keep an eye on your temp guage. If you notice the gauge getting over2/3 way then pop the hood and see if the secondary fan is going or not. It sounds like you tested the secondary fan motor itself and it works. If you are concerned about the sensor or the relay not working you can swap them out with the primary fan ciruit (one at a time for testing) to see if the primary still kicks on I would think. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turboat Posted April 8, 2014 Report Share Posted April 8, 2014 so I am thinking about maybe lowering the temperature ranges for which the fans cut themselves on. I bugged DAD (on the forums today) about why my secondary fan did not cut on and either I did not understand on how to test them out of I was just confused. Anyway, I went through a lot of stuff I did not have too which included test their relays and the fan motors themselves. They work off of a ground and then they kick themselves on, I have never seen my secondary fan cut itself on but my primary runs a lot when the temperature hits its standard switch limit. My question is are there part numbers to reduce the thermo switches down to a lower level to cut themselves on or could you just buy a 90 degree C instead of the current 100 degree C and will it work? I have seen the hack job of running them together but I am not really interested in doing that. When I grounded the secondary thermo switch wire to the neg battery cable with the ignition key on the fan kicked on but the pusher part did not. I am basically wanting to make sure that my secondary will kick on and make sure that my car will not over heat. I have been watching it but in traffic which is stopped or go situations, the temp needle goes to around middle the primary kicks on and it holds it constant. When I drive or am at speed the temperature gauge runs around a quarter on the meter which I think it should be at. Basically, what thermo stat temperature sensor would work for the secondary in order to kick it on at a lower temperature? I guess I did not understand dads procedure but the wire is what you ground and not the thermo sensor. Also should the pusher come on with it?Run a wire from the secondary fan to a toggle switch inside the car and connect the other side of the switch to a ground screw that hold the radio mounts on. Then you can control the secondary fan by a switch and not have to worry about high amp draw when using wipers, heaters, headlights defroster etc... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnnyWadd Posted April 8, 2014 Report Share Posted April 8, 2014 If you look in the manual there are two temp switches and two temp relays. Your problem is there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TSIboostman Posted April 8, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 8, 2014 I ran a negative terminal battery from the neg battery post to the ground wire on the secondary thermal sensor. the fan kicked on, so that leaves me to believe that the switch might not be reading the ground signal it needs in order to ground to the relay. If that makes sense. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ucw458 Posted April 8, 2014 Report Share Posted April 8, 2014 Take the switch out and hook it to a volt meter set to continuity with some aligator clips. Then drop the switch in a pot of water on the stove. Heat to a boil watching the temp with a thermometer and checking continuity. The radiator is grounded in 4 places so the chances of the sensor not getting a good ground is remote. It's grounded on each side where it bolts to the chassis and each fan wiring plug has a ground wire. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnnyWadd Posted April 11, 2014 Report Share Posted April 11, 2014 I ran a negative terminal battery from the neg battery post to the ground wire on the secondary thermal sensor. the fan kicked on, so that leaves me to believe that the switch might not be reading the ground signal it needs in order to ground to the relay. If that makes sense. If you direct ground it then it will run anyway. All that tells you is the relay is ok. Sensor grounds when hot. So if you just grounded it cold it would go on anyway. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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