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Everything posted by BlueCuda

  1. The larger secondary goes closer to the valve cover. For the wiring I am not sure, you should be able to look it up in the FSM for wire colors. Position of the injector probably doesn't matter as much as the correct wires. I'd swap connectors and see if it runs any better. If you have the secondary running as the primary it will be overly rich with fuel and be pretty doggy as a result.
  2. That price sounds about right. I also think you made the right choice on what to do with your day. What are the details on that car? Looks great!
  3. If you adjusted the play in the box its easy to make them too tight. They are most worn in the straight ahead position. When you adjust them to make that right they often can be too tight when turned farther to the less worn parts.
  4. Does anyone here have a megasquirt of any variety setup on a stockish car with TBI? I want to eventually move to one of Scott's setups or possibly build my own. Does anyone has a MSQ from a TBI car they could send me to look at? I have an MS3X+Microsquirt on another car so I am experienced in the platform. I would however like to see how a TBI starquest looks in Tuner Studio vs current NA v8 setup. My car is running well but the wiring is in pretty rough shape under the hood. A clean and delete with a megasquirt add might be a good project for this coming winter. Just kicking tires at the moment.
  5. I wouldn't be surprised if that was the problem, especially because the one on my parts car is thrashed ha.
  6. For those of you that have repaired cruise control issues what did you find was the reason yours quit? Mine hasn't worked since I got the car running, I have checked and verified that the vacuum pump and relay work. The speed sensor seems to work because it will effect idle when the car is moving(if that has anything to do with cruise I don't know). I also get the light on the stalk when the cruise is turned on, but I get zero function. Brake lights function correctly, cruise computer is plugged in. Before I go to the service manual with diagnosis what have you guys found to be the problem? I assume the setup down at the transmission end of the speedometer cable has something to do with cruise. I have a spare one of those to try but have yet to do so. Thanks for any help.
  7. Did it again today, seems to have taken care of the problem. I didn't get a chance to test drive very far but so far so good.
  8. Yes that makes sense, I will do the process again today if I get the chance.
  9. Back on this, it hasn't cut out lately but it may not be cold enough for it to show that behavior until the fall. I got my work truck back so the conquest is off of daily duty. I changed the whole throttle body assembly but reused my injectors. I had another nice looking throttle body from another engine that I swapped on. I did a coolant flush today so I went ahead and did that while I had the coolant out. I also made a block off plate for the EGR valve but the EGR is actually plugged where the head and intake meet. I did the full TPS/ISC reset minus one part, during that it says to ground a yellow/red wire. I didn't see a yellow and red wire on the ISC so I didn't, but the rest of the process went well. Is that wire supposed to be on the MPS connector or ISC motor? I am also not great with colors so I will probably have my kid come out and look for me today. Everything seems fine except it is somewhat slow to return to idle at lower speeds. It will settle down and idle nicely at 900 but it takes it a little time to get there. It also hangs the RPM on the shifts a little bit at low speeds. When you are traveling down the road faster it returns to idle normally when the clutch is pushed it and the revs don't hang at all. Does the vehicle speed sensor have anything to do with this? My cruise control doesn't work either but I haven't bother checking into that much besides verifying the vacuum pump works. One other thing related to vehicle speed. When I first swapped the throttle body I did not do a TPS reset. It fired up and idled right and did for a long time while I was finishing up the coolant flush and picking up tools. AS SOON AS I moved the car, we are talking less than 5 feet it started to surge the idle. It idled for at least 30 minutes, fully warmed up, and when the car rolled back 5 feet the idle change totally with no throttle input. Other than these little quirks it still runs great. The warmer air sure does rob it of some power, I was starting to be OK with it staying stock haha.
  10. I am going to post some pictures in a wiring group I am in on Facebook, its amazing the stuff people identify from OEM stuff there. The connector housing is great, but I would need new connectors inside of it to re use it of course. great idea on the coil wire end to cover up the spades!
  11. I am sorry, you want just the caps I didn't catch that part. Yeah I bought the whole bearing and they didn't even come with the caps!
  12. Just to update this, while I still can't verify this has fixed the fuel shutoff problem it for sure helped other things. Now that the ECU doesn't think I am driving in Antartica it runs even better than it did before. Imagine that?
  13. Another 200 or so miles down. I popped the hood today to go over some things, tighten manifold bolts for the first time since I put it back together, checked the oil, etc. I also noticed that the temp sensor for the ECU had a broken wire inside the little boot that covered the connector. So I repaired that and while I haven't driven it yet it already has better idle manners when cold. I will probably need to go back in and do a TPS/ISC reset. Does anyone know a replacement part for the spade connectors inside the plastic clip for the ECU temp connector? I put some regular spade connectors on for the time being but I would like to fix the correct plug if possible. The harness from my parts car had a broken wire as well.
  14. I was able to buy some from Rock Auto a few months ago. They were by mevotech.
  15. The engine in my car is a combo of a 116K mile short block and a seemingly recent reman cylinder head. The head had been crack repaired and had one of those melt off warranty tags on it. It was also very clean. I have no idea if the head is original to a turbo motor or not, it does have jet valves. The car is stock minus a 3" catless exhaust and the EGR is plugged at the head. It runs out of steam about 5000rpm, it will rev up to 5500 but you can tell its not where it is happy. Is that normal? Its been 22 years since I owned one of these and I don't remember. Did the turbo motors come with different valve springs? If so could that be a reason this thing seems to fall off a little early? When I swapped the head I used the cam that came from the engine in the car. The reman head had an elgin cam in it but I wanted to be sure I used an original, didn't know if it mattered or not but that is what I did. Thanks for any input.
  16. My car currently doesn't have a radio, I plan on installing some sort of apple play head unit eventually but someone made a total wreck of the wiring so I have other items on the list first, and besides the exhaust sounds great. I don't listen to the terrestrial radio and my car doesn't have an antenna installed so I don't plan to install one. Has anyone plugged the antenna hole in a creative yet decent looking way? I currently have a rubber vacuum plug inserted in the hole but that isn't a long term solution.
  17. Ok so an update. I have been driving the car a lot more, it has about 540 miles on it since I got it running. Its running great but this problem is reoccurring. I have the surge almost completely gone, it does it for a brief moment as it transitions down from cold idle to warm idle. My company truck is being used for awhile so I am using my conquest as my daily this week. Today the drive to work went perfect, got the little idle surge out of the way sitting at a red light and it was a perfect drive to work. This evening it was pouring rain and I got in the car, started it and hit the highway. That over 2000RPM cut out hit me on the highway, so I have a hard time believing it is the ISC now. When this happens Tach Works Factory boost gauge reads inline with mechanical boost gauge Voltage is normal AEM AFR gauge reads -- as in zero fuel. So something is turning the fuel off, its not going lean, the fuel is going out completely. It cuts on and off briefly but below 2000RPM its fine. This went on for about 1-2 miles on the highway and then it was great the rest of the way home. This happens in the transition from cold to operating temp(mid gauge). If I drive the car all day, if it happens it happens on the warmup. It has to basically start from dead cold for it to happen, just a few hours and its fine. If I don't get sidetracked this weekend I will do the following Change the ECU temp sensor even though it seems to OHM OK Change the throttle body and ISC with a much nicer looking one that I have. Double check electrical connections but this is really too predictable for a loose connection. This could be ignition related but its not losing crank signal so I might put a new coil on it and clean up the connections but not entirely sure that will help.
  18. Even if you end up leaving it stock get an air fuel ratio gauge and a mechanical boost gauge. Those are two things you can use to verify its running properly. The stock boost gauge kind of gives you an idea but it can't be trusted. For example I had a simple boost leak and due to the extra flow it was indicating 12-14psi of boost on the stock gauge but the mechanical was showing 8. After I found the leak they both read very close to each other under boost and the car ran much better. These things aren't rockets bone stock. My car is stock other than a catless 3" exhaust and my wife's 2015 V6 Grand Cherokee would outrun it. But the GC has 290HP and 8 gears. The real truth is minivans and SUVs are faster than lots of 80s muscle but it doesn't matter because they suck!
  19. The joint that MKS sells works great. There is several install videos out there for it as well. Its probably an 1-1.5 hour job. Replacing the whole shaft shouldn't be hard but I wouldn't bother with putting the stock coupler back in.
  20. I had forgotten I made this post ha. The car has been running and driving since December 31st, barely made my goal of running and driving in 2021. I have about 500 miles on it now. It runs great, I returned it to stock except for the exhaust. It still needs a little front end work and some hub bearings in the rear but its on the road at least.
  21. The facebook groups killed message boards all across. The positive to a facebook group is you can get a reply rather quick, the quality of that reply can vary wildly! The negative is they have more people and that means more idiots. That media is also heard to search so what good info is out there is hard to find again. I much prefer message boards, but where I used to use 5-6 message boards I am down to 3 and only 2 of that I check regularly. My conquest didn't run when I got it, and I had just bought another engine and a parts car when the board crashed. I was about to be very lost! But thankfully the data that was saved was good, and I also got knowledgeable answers when I did need something. It went from a corpse to a reliable driver in a short time mostly thanks to the knowledge on this board.
  22. I guess its possible that it is cracked somewhere else, say maybe it froze at some point? My dad did have an engine in his race car where an oil passage was enlarged and got into water. It did not leak water into the oil just oil into the water. So I suppose the higher pressure from the oil can compromise the crack but not the lower pressure from the coolant? Sucks either way!
  23. My 8 year old loves cars and can't stop talking about how he wants to go see a junk yard. So after some research I found one an hour or two away that is old school and hopefully lets an 8 year old in lol. None of them in my immediate area do, and they don't have any cool stuff anyways.
  24. Interesting, and that sucks. But, I would think it would be getting coolant in the oil not the other way around. To get oil in the coolant your the two have to meet where the oil is under greater pressure than the coolant. Even then you would expect it to get some coolant in the oil when the engine was off and the cooling system still under pressure.
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