ucw458

Most of my SQs had a tight tilt mechanism but the adjustment rod would work it's way loose. I've only ever done the bend the adjustment rod trick. 7 years now and my tilt steering hasn't dropped once. Pull the adjustment out then take the plastic knob off. Then bend the rod slightly where it enters the column. The goal is to get the rod to bind in the column so it doesn't work loose. Once it feels very tight pushing the rod back in you've bent it enough.

Looks promising but we'll see.

Happy Birthday

Yes it only turns on the dash light. The regulator handles all output. It monitors output voltage and adjusts the voltage it sends to the stator. The regulator is a variable power supply. If you send 12 volts to the stator you get around 35 volts from the alt. So the regulator feeds around 3-5 volts to the stator depending on current load conditions to get 13-14 volts output. The 12v+ S terminal powers the regulator.

No the signal wire isn't for the gauge. Nor does it tell the alt what the voltage output is. The signal wire just turns on the alt. 12v+ when the key is on that's all. The gauge gets power from the ignition switch.

Signal and lamp. Lamp is for the alt light. Signal gets 12v+ when the ignition is on. The signal wire is what turns the alt on and powers the regulator.

Happy birthday Harry.

I pulled mine without wire. Just use heat to warm the adhesive and apply pressure. Work slowly and the pressure will cause the adhesive to release.

It will be cheaper to buy in bulk. When I did mine I bought a 50' spool and used a little over 30' iirc. For items like a BOV or a map sensor for mpi they need a stronger/faster signal. Meaning a larger hose like 1/4" will make them work better.

If I remember correctly, the nuts go on the airdam side. It's been a few years since I've changed one.

Are you thinking of the guy who spent around $8k at a mechanic shop near hemet, ca only to still have a non running car?

The airdam and bumper get sandwiched between the brackets just like the factory brackets. Should be self explanatory once you take the bumper off.

Just noticed this. Kinda too late now.

Find out who owns the property and ask them about it.

Only admins can fix site issues. I can reset his password if someone can email him the new one.

They sell parts for lots of other cars. Like most new owners they usually find tep first. Then later they buy from someone else.

A copper washer was the OEM seal.

Keep the running one the way it is and mod the crap out of the other one. Sometimes I wish I had a stock SQ to run around in. It's been so long since I've used mine because the MPI project ended up taking a back seat to everything else going on.

I just don't understand the location. I think having the sender on the block or filter housing creates less potential leaks. But if you want/need to re-locate that's up to you. What I don't understand is why you ran a hose from the front of the hottest place under the hood to the rear of the hottest place under the hood. Why not have the sender near the air filter and run a little extra wire? Keeping hoses and electronics away from exhaust heat makes them live longer. Not to mention oil + hot exhaust = fire.

There can be only one.

Sell your car now while it still works and buy an older car.

Gravy, yuck. Biscuits are good though. But to be fair, I probably haven't had good gravy. Every time I get it on something at a restaurant it's bland and gross.

I asked for a copy so some of the info could still be available on SQC. Never got a reply. May still happen. Gary has been pretty busy.

Sort of but not really. It's a thread about a dumb law. Political debate threads were the ones that usually ended up being one big argument. While they aren't really banned mods have asked members not to start them because they usually don't end well.

I used black RTV on mine. Zero leaks after 5 years and counting.