kev

Pretty cool! It's two for side, if memory serves me correctly. I'll run through my photos to confirm.

Sounds good. I'll get you those photos of the A-pillar. They are on a drive in my office which is in the basement. It's just that I physically can't go down there at the moment, for I broke my leg. I have to collect all of these photos and see if I can develop a good thread on what is needed for auto to manual belt conversion. I know that I don't have photos of the removal of the three studs on each side of the roof nor the removal of that plate at the rear upper doorway, but I might have enough to describe the process. Plus, it's been around six years since I did this, my memory fades on some of the details (gotta love aging).

For now, immediately unplug the wires going to the t-stats and ground them (well at least to the secondary that you know isn't functioning). This will make the fans run at all times when the key is ON. Don't drive it any further until you do that...you know you have a t-stat issue and it isn't worth cracking the head. Yes, replace the t-stats and consider at least what techboy has provided (ground the secondary fan). I, personally, would just leave both grounded and running all the time. One of my cars has been running like that since 2002 (two owners later, it still is wired the same). If you insist on using the stock t-stats, connect a wire between the two t-stats....thus if either one fails, the other will still turn on both fans. The factory electric fan setup is a design failure on our cars IMHO. You can address this easily by what we are saying without altering the stock appearance of the engine bay. Also, the 'mod' I suggested isn't a mod. It's simply resorting to the much more reliable setup on the earlier model starquests (83/84). I've never had a cracked head on a car running the factory earlier model clutch fan setup. You would need the fan shroud out of an 83/84 starquest and the clutch fan itself out of the same years or from any 80s Montero or Mitsubishi pickup (they had the same fan but a different shroud). The only difficult thing is that the later model radiators had the three brackets brazed to them to mount the electric fans (two small ones on the bottom tank near the t-stats and one larger double bracket on the top tank in the middle). Just a little heat from a propane or MAP torch and the brackets come off the radiator without damage and could easily be soldered back on later down the road. The clutch fan shroud simply bolts on with the four bolts on the sides of the radiator (same ones used on the other sides of the electric fans). For the clutch fan itself, just remove the four bolts holding the water pulley pump. Remove the flat plate over the pump pulley and bolt on the clutch fan. The water pumps all have provisions for clutch fans even for electric fan cars (they have the 'nub' that protrudes into the fan to engage the clutch). The 83/84 models used studs instead of bolts on the water pump connection. Studs make it easier to mount the clutch fan but I simply reuse the four original bolts. I should note that the 83/84 clutch fan shroud is two pieces. You bolt the lower half on the radiator first (the radiator doesn't have to be out of the car or even disconnected). Then put on the clutch fan and, last, bolt on the top half of the shroud. The top half is easier with the upper radiator hose disconnected but you can still get in there with it connected. Again, don't even start the vehicle until you get that secondary fan working (Ground the wire...takes less than two minutes)! I can't stress this enough! Take this from a guy who has been driving these cars for over 30 years and has cracked many cylinder heads (yes, I've cracked a head without ever noticing an increase in temperature on the stock gauge). I'm so paranoid about this that I've wired the fans to ground on the day of purchase of starquest in the former owners driveway before driving it home....he looked at me like I was crazy! kev

I started a thread on this topic in Randy's forum on FB, but I'll post it here as well. There are a few 'Report to Moderator' messages that came up yesterday stating that Bill, Caliber308, passed back in October. They appear to be from his wife, Gwen. She said that she was interested to see if anyone wanted to buy his car and provided a phone number. Is there anyone here close to Bill who could confirm this news? I'd like to get a confirmation before I share the number. Most know that Bill and I had a bit of friction over the years, but it is always difficult to hear about the passing of such a long-standing member to our community. My condolences to his family. kev

It looks very promising! I wish there was a photo of the rear, for it looks like a KYB pump as well...which wouldn't surprise me, Hyundai utilizes a lot of the same Suppliers as Mitsu. I agree that the pump shouldn't care the type of hydraulic fluid, especially AFT. It should 'pump' it fine and the seals will be fine. I have spare stock PS pump mounts if you would want to modify?

To do a 'proper' auto to manual seat belt conversion, you need a ton of parts: * Both manual seat belt mechanisms which include the belt mechanism, the trim clip that goes into the door card, mounting bolts (one on each end), and the upper latch. * The rear corner upper door panel trim (the small piece that runs up the side of the window in the back) mounting clip with screws (zinc plated bracket shown in the photos above) * The rear corner upper door panel trim (the small piece that runs up the side of the window in the back) - This is all you really need for the door panels themselves because the original auto seat belt door panels can easily be modified as shown in my photos above. Although, I just remembered something; the 87 on up cars large upper door panel has a hole in it to accept the rear corner upper trim. This will be visible with the manual upper door panel trim. I did some vinyl repair on mine to 'close the hole'. If you happen to have access to the main upper door panel on a manual car, it is beneficial to utilize them. They will also have the belt guides on them, which is the next item below. * The door panel seat belt guides with two screws each - not really a necessity, as seen in the photos above * The plastic A-pillar covers WITH clips/hardware * The manual belt main headliner (sunroof vs non-sunroof, as required for your car) INCLUDING the two side rails WITH side rail clips/hardware - Note the rear vinyl covered headliner is not needed - it is the same between manual or auto belts * Upper AND lower B-pillar covers (i.e. sides of the rear seat) - they mount the same as the auto belt covers. * The clear plastic inserts for the door panels to keep water from getting on the seat belt mechanisms. * IMPORTANT: The seat belt latch on the driver and passenger seats depending on what year car you have vs the year of the donor belts car! In my case, I used seatbelts out of an 86 with 88/89 seats - no issue. But if you have 87 seats, the latch will be the wrong size. There are also some differences on earlier model car seatbelts. Before you do anything, make sure your manual seat belts 'click' into the latches on your seat! Also note that on 87 seats, the seat belt latch is approximately six inches forward from where it really should be (I honestly don't know if it can be moved back or not, I haven't done a manual belt conversion using 87 seats). You make the determination if that is acceptable to you or not...just make sure the belt latches before you go any further! * 85/86 style center console tray * 83-86 style power mirror switch with trim plate for the center console * 83-86 style rear center console without the seat belt holes This isn't the easiest of conversions, to be honest. You need a lot of parts to do it correctly and modifications to the car body are needed. Some people just leave all the interior trim go and not install the rear upper portion of the door panels. This will allow use of the manual belts but the missing trim will be noticeable along with the auto belt track.

I should have taken a lot more photos and did a writeup on the manual seatbelt conversion. At the time, I was just trying to move my project forward and wasn't as diligent it taking detailed photos. I know I have some photos of the A-pillar mounts, at least on a manual belt car (the donor vehicle), but they are on a hard drive that I don't have accessible at the moment. But if you have the proper upper clips for the manual a-pillar trim, it will make sense. You don't use the lower clips.

This piece here will interfere with the upper door panel trim on a manual seat belt car. If you want to use the trim, it will have to be removed. Here it is with the manual headliner and manual b-pillar panels: The upper door panel trim near the manual belt upper latch will not let the door close until you remove the curved sheet metal above. Note that this car didn't use the seatbelt clip on the upper door panel...it will work fine without it. Here are some views of the mounts. You will need the upper door panel mounting clip. It is one large clip in lieu of two on an auto seat belt car The lower belt mount. The tapped hole is there already on an auto seat belt car. Just need the bolt (in fact, the bolt might be there as well...I forgot if it was or not) The clear plastic to go behind the belt in the door is a nice to have...will prevent water from going on the seat belt mechanism.

Found some of them. Here is the modification to the door card. Mark the cutout of the seatbelt clip on the card (it will be smaller than the cutout on the door panel itself, as you described). Here is how I cut the vinyl Fold it back and glue it. Here you could see the difference in the upper panels between the manual and auto belts car. I had one of each so I used the manual one for a template...but it's easy to simply eyeball once the belts are in jplace. Note the manual belt upper trim needed to accept the belts! That trim will interfere with the sheet metal on the upper rear corner of an auto seat belt car!

Yes, you will run into some issues on the A-pillar. The auto seat belt cars had some extra sheet metal tacked in on the lower area of the pillar that prevents installation of the lower clip of the pillar trim. If memory serves me correctly, I had to modify the lower mount of the trim slightly to get it to fit correctly and, obviously, that lower trim mount wouldn't be used. You do need the upper clip from a manual belt car to properly install the trim too. I know I have photos of this but I can't access them at this moment. You will run into issues if you keep the auto headliner. It won't mate right with the A-pillar covers. If you swap headliners, you will have to cut off three 6mm studs on each side. You will also need the b-pillar trim. There is also a piece of sheet metal on the b-pillar corner that will need to be cut off and removed to accept the manual belt headliner and b-pillar trim. Again, I have photos but I'm struggling to access them at the moment. Yes, the cards have the notch in the back of them for the manual belts but you DON'T cut the vinyl to the extents of the notch. Measure the plastic insert clip on the manual belts and carefully cut the vinyl to size in the middle of the notch. I actually don't remove any material, I slice the vinyl such that it can fold back and clue to itself on the backside for added support. The insert clip then pops in there. It is close to the size of the notch but is smaller. Just take your time and think through it. The upper door panel on a manual car has a catch for the belt to ride through it in the rear. I'm assuming that is what you mean by the two additional screw holes? That isn't really needed, to be honest. If you have the catch, then sure go ahead and install it. Just line it up where the belt crosses the panel, drill two holes and pop it in there. The clips for the rear vinyl headliner panel are specific. MKSmotorsports sells replacements created via a 3D printer. Headliner Panel Retainer Clips - MKS Motorsport Mksmotorsports also sells door panel inserts via the same method Door Panel Retainer Clips - MKS Motorsport The issue with your hatch is most likely because the hatch isn't aligned with the body. They tend to 'slide' themselves back with time. So, it is trying to unlatch but the latch brackets are all wedged into the latch. Also, the rear carpeted panel is known to get bent up and cause some interference as well. Get your hatch to align with the body first. If you still are having issues, remove the rear carpeted panel and take it out of the equation for now. If you still are having issues, there are minor adjustments to the latches and latch brackets as well as the rods.

Over the years I found that if I was retaining the electric fans, I ALWAYS ran both hot, at all times, by grounding both lower wires that went to the t-stats. My view is that I'd rather tax the alternator than risk overheating. These t-stats always fail with time. As we all know, it doesn't take much overheating to crack these heads. But my advice is to dump the electric fans and use an early model clutch fan setup. I've had no issues with failing fan clutches in over 30 years, never have overheating issues, etc. Although if you have an aluminum radiator (cxracing, etc.), then using the clutch fan/shroud is a bit more difficult. There was a member here who figured out how to do it, but his thread was lost in the database issue.

It's all opinions and mine has always been NONE, keep the G54B or buy the car that was made for the engine you want to put in one of these cars. But again, it's opinion and I respect people's own desires on how they build their particular cars....just please actually finish the swap and don't tear the thing a part, give up down the road, and it winds up stripped for parts or crushed.

Oh, it is a conquest btw, not a starion.

Yeah, definitely missing a few pieces there but your post seems to indicate you have a lot of it. The entire intake and exhaust side of course, the radiator, slop tank, fans, alternator, downpipe, air cleaner, coil, etc. I see the main fuel line plus fuel filter and bracket there next to the steering box but the fuel line from the filter to the intake is gone. Not really a big deal if you go MPI, because you will need to make up a new line anyways. Power steering pump is gone but the reservoir is still there. Oil cooler is still there and I can see braided lines but it isn't connected to the engine at the moment (do your have the banjo bolts?). Air conditioner is gone, which is common, but you will need an alternator bracket for a AC delete. There is no difference in the exhaust manifold for a TD05 16G. The turbine housing may have been ported for that turbo though but the manifold itself is the same. That's a good turbo for these cars btw. It will have quick spool-up and be reliable. If you continue down the MPI route, it will give you the biggest increase in performance. MPI is frustrating because of the fabricating involved but it is the best mod to the G54B. As much as I love these cars, I hate the stock EMS and injector setup. It's not a bad starting point if the car is rust free. Everything can be sourced. I love that it is an atlantic blue car.

There aren't many coilover options for our cars. If you post a photo of them, we probably could easily tell what brand they are.

Not sure what brand of coilovers are on the car but softer (lower stiffness) springs might be available for it. Most coilover manufacturers use eibach or an eibach knockoff spring, so they are typically easily replaceable with alternate stiffness springs. I run ground control coilovers with a much softer spring rate than most coilover manufacturers provide with their coilover kits and I love them: 350/250# for the front/rear with 7" front and 8" rear springs. Finding a 'good' set of SHP struts is going to be difficult. There never really was a good option for rebuilding these and any sets you find will be 35 year old originals. Even finding aftermarket stock replacement non-SHP struts is very difficult these days.

Found it: Precision Replacement Parts 2304 001 Molding Clip OEM # MB 198536 (dkhardware.com) And the OEM part number is MB198536, looks like there are a few sources when doing a quick search, especially on ebay.

I use to have a link in my favorites for a Supplier of those clips but I can't find it. Scotty was the one who provided it years back. I'll have to do some searching.

oooh, good catch! I missed that this morning, I just went to ebay quick. This one has the correct plate but it doesn't have the heat shield: TD05 TD05H TD06H TD06SL2-11A 12A 12B 14B 14C 17C 19C Turbo Rebuild Repair Kit | eBay I was trying to find the exact one I bought a year or so ago. I didn't put a link in my parts list, it just says 'ebay, $28.50'. Dig around a bit, you should be able to find one that has the shield as well. Or just either clean up and re-use your original plate or the heat shield. The heat shields do degrade though. kev

Here is a how to guide for the rebuild. This is for a TD04 and not a TD05 but the guts are the same and it follows the same process. I've referred to this exact procedure on at least one of my rebuilds. I have another printed out procedure for a TD05 16g in my garage as well, but I printed it over 20 years ago and wasn't able to find it online this morning. But in some quick searches, I saw a few youtube videos on the topic as well. How to refurbish/rebuild and replace a Turbo (Mitsubishi TD04HL) on Volvo 850, S70, V70 or C70 (volvohowto.com)

They are very easy to rebuild and the rebuild kits are on ebay for cheap. Here is one that will work fine. Look for one like this that has the metal turbo heat shield included, some kits do not: TD05 TD05H 16G 18G 20G Turbo Repair Rebuild Kit for MITSUBISHI Evo, Subaru WRX | eBay If it is the stock turbo, the turbine and compressor wheels were balanced separately, meaning you don't need to balance the rotating assembly like many of the online myths say. But if your turbo was upgraded at some point, then this might not be true. kev

Oh man! Sorry to hear that you are getting out of the game. I hope you are keeping the 390GT! Kevin

Are you sure you didn’t have one of your valve gaps too tight? If a valve were to hang open even the slightest bit, it wouldn’t take long to destroy a lobe. That’s a negative with mech lifters. Do you have the mechanical rocker shafts on there And not the oem hydraulic rocker shafts? tep cams have been pretty reliable over the years. I haven’t heard of many issues like this with their cams but you never know. there aren’t many options available anymore I’d suggest a Schneider 284f or go back with a stock cam for the time being

Schneider 284F

The bushings in the shifter linkage are known to disintegrate with time. They literally turn to dust. I'm not sure if they are available aftermarket currently. I've always just cut pieces of 1/2" or 5/8" heater hose and popped them in there and it works great!