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T56 transmission kits


Chad
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we need more interest to get this off the ground.

 

I need to emphasize that you do NOT have to drop $2000+ now, concider the the benifit of buying the $600 kit now, and getting the transmission, driveline, and clutch later.  Think of it as an investment in your cars future.  See is as a 2-3 step process, much like a MPI conversion is.

 

The supply of 88-89 transmissions wont last for ever and neither will the parts. With people starting to make the numbers they are now, and the seeming limit of 425 TQ which is getting easier and easier to get, people should make plans for one those two reasons to convert.  

 

A good friend of mine just spent nealry $1000 on a "race built" 88/89 with cryo treated gears and all,  It was rated at 650 HP and 1 year warranty, it lasted 2 months with only ~325 HP and ~410 TQ at the wheels.  The T56 is rated for more than that from the factory, and designed for a heavier car too.  It can easily be upgraded tremendously, and repaired cheaply.   Plus the T56's parts availability, there are 10x's as many T56's and lots of parts makers, aftermarket and OEM.   10 years from now this will still be ture.  

 

Where will you buy tans parts for your stock 5 spd. 10 years from now?

 

Go here for more info:

 

http://www.starquestclub.com/index.pl?boar...;num=1100235034

 

 

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wonder where we'l be in 3 more  yr's Chad,, 3 yr's ago  you'd  have  been  hard press'd to find any one  that  need'd that tranns ,, now we have  at least 10  guys  that can use one  now  ;D

it'l take at least that long  for all the  advances we've made to come togather and click as the  should  :)

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  • 3 weeks later...
look at the ratios if you swap in the 4.22 gear set, the final ratio is almost identical to stock, and has the 6th gear to grab.  I posted these ratios in the 2nd post in the GP forum.
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That is true But in 1st gear you have to have a set of 4.64 in there to be the same as a car with the 3.90's I think it would work very good for guys that are not super big in to drag racing very good for a street car I will say that 6th would be nice for the longer drives for sure. it is not bad at all Just not the way i want to go with my car.

 

 

That biger Clutch is a very very good Idea!!!!

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  • 1 month later...

So...   You're saying that it's possible to swap the gear ratio in the trans in addition to the rear-end?  That would be nice!   I'm, for sure, interested as I have an 88 trans and the sync's are warn and need replaced.  I was thinking of just purchaing the rebuild kit (about $250) but I'm interested in a beafer trans since I'm going to be making some serious HP before the end of the summer.   (going mapi with T3/T4, Haltec E11. and nitro)

 

I'd like to have a nice drag car with the 4:22 rear with 6th gear doing about 3k RPM at 65MPH

 

Is it possible?

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  • 1 month later...
what about the torque tube? how does the t56 fit in the tranny tunnel.  I dont really like how tight it is in your pics. especially the "after hammering out".  With yours it looks like you have to use solid motor and tranny mounts cause if that thing torques your in trouble.  correct me if im wrong.
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The rear trans mount on the T56 is compact and it has very little flex.  Even if you had broken motor mounts, the trans probably won't hit anything.  the tightest portion of the trans tunnel is arround the rear 1/3 of the trans where deflection is the least.

 

What about the torque tube?  it will use the stock one.  FYI, there are several 9 second full body quests that run a stock torque tube, no problems there.

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You said your making/ having made a 7075 series aluminum pinion flange so we can use spicer 1350's that will hold 1000hp,  how much will the adapter hold up to? is the flange going to be treated at all?  I know it is able to be heat treated and must be annealed before machining.  shear strength is 30ksi for tempered t6 6061 , 12ksi un-tempered and for 7075 is 22ksi and T6 is 48ksi.   a 6" solid slug of 6061 t6 is about $150 and the same for 7075 is about $450.  whats the construction of the pinion flange(pics)  have you greatly increased the size of it.  what about the adapter plate for the flywheel and the bell housing adapter.  If you have this thing bolted up to your car, no doubt you have the parts to show.  
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"I know it is able to be heat treated and must be annealed before machining."

 

What is your source for this info?  I have not anealed it, machines beautifuly at a T-651.  It's yield strength is 66,000, 20% higher than 1018 low carbon mild steel.  This stuff is stronger than most steels !!

 

 

a 6" solid slug of 6061 t6 is about $150 and the same for 7075 is about $450.  Sounds like you need some advice on how to shop  ;)  I've gotten a 6' long 4" OD piece of 7075 for this project for $650, enough for 26 pinion adapters.

 

"If you have this thing bolted up to your car, no doubt you have the parts to show. "

 

I'm not posting pics untill I am 100% commited to a specific design, I've made 6 prototypes to make sure I maintain max strength while giving propper clearances.

 

"what about the adapter plate for the flywheel and the bell housing adapter."

 

What about them?  I'm not sure what you are asking.  I'm using 6061 T6 on both, the adapter is 3/8" thick.

 

whats the construction of the pinion flange(pics)  have you greatly increased the size of it.

 

It will look a lot like this:

 

http://www.iedls.com/jpg/Almn_yoke.jpg

 

With the exception that the back will be a flat flange to mate to the stock torqu tube input flange, not the splined shaft you see.

 

Basicaly I've taken a proven design and a proven material and adapted it for use in the starquest.  If you doubt it will hold up, you may need to ask some guys who have this Inland Empire billet yoke in their 1000+ HP hotrods.

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the 6" piece was just a price reference from the two from onlinemetals.  I dont buy from them because of their high price but it was a good example of price difference.  I wouldnt use 1018 for that flange either.

 

Everything i have read anywhere has said you should anneal 7075 before machining.  this is from metal suppliers online "It is best to machine this alloy in the annealed condition. Machining capability is good and oil lubricants should be used.

"  

 

I just want to make sure you are looking at every aspect and make sure that everyone gets a superior product.  I wouldnt buy a 7075 pinion flange that was splined or had bolts to hold the 1350.  Thats just me.  It may hold for what we put down but i dont see it holding 1000hp.  Now if it was a flange that bolted and spread the load and the 1350 was pressed in.  Im not sure what the best design is.  What you end up with may be the best design and i dont want to critisize that i just want to be sure you have the answers.  I will just sit tight until you are done with the designs and ask my questions then.

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Sounds like he's done his homework, to me and taking a sensible and cautious approach-still like to see one in action on our cars!  Keep updates coming please!
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  • 4 weeks later...
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