Richie_Rich Posted June 13, 2003 Report Share Posted June 13, 2003 Well, I finally got my engine in the car and running. This thing is as smooth as glass. I don't have many mods yet, but this is a breif summary of the build. ---Crank cleaned up standard. (All it needed was a light polish) ---Rebuilt rods with ARP bolts, balanced ( big end, small end and total rod), bushed for full floating piston pins. Â Bushing off set to bring rod to spec length. ---Midwest Turbo Wiseco Forged pistons 8:1 (Not really 8:1. Â Should have had about an 6cc dish instead of the 14cc one. Â Stock is 16.3cc's) Ordered Wiseco's S566 pins. They are much lighter than the pins shipped with the pistons. Midwest Turbo has since redesigned these Wisco pistons with an 6cc dish. ---Total Seal rings from Midwest Turbo. (Total Seals don't work well) ??? ---Balance shaft elimination kit. ---Engine balanced within 1/10th gram. Each part seperately (Crank, flywheel, pressure plate, front pully) ---Tim's "Monsta Banshee Roller Cam. ;D ---Mitsubishi MD195450 Roller Rockers. (Stock lifters MD377561) ---Marnal head with ARP head studs. (Nothing done to head yet) ---'83 length Marnal valves and Schneider #6610 HD valve springs. ---Decked block about .020" (In an attempt to really get 8:1) ---.052" gasket. Â (I planned on a .030" Cometic shim, but that never happened. Â I will keep my eye out for something similar) ---I am getting about 7.66:1 compression. Â With .030" gasket, I would get 7.93:1 ---Bosch platinum plugs and MSD 8.8mm Super Conductor wires. ---Welderwiz's silicone vacuum hoses. ---Kelly's 3" exhaust with Flowmaster muffler. No cats ---Stock Turbo and wastgate ---1G MAS with K&N filter ---Generic RFL BOV This engine runs great. Â I've now got over 17,000 miles on it already with no problems. Â Â I get a little piston slap when it's cold, but that stops after about a minute. Â My oil cooler lines leaked, so I replaced them. I don't like the Total Seal rings and will replace them this winter. This engines pulls past 6k no problem and breaks the tires loose at 4k in first or second. I thought I had low oil pressure at idle, but it turns out the factory gauge is lousy. Who would have guessed : I hooked up a cheap Sunpro gauge from Autozone and it shows about 90psi at cold idle. Â The factory gauge only goes up half-way. I'll keep you all informed of any changes. Thank you to all that have helped me along with this rebuild whether it was from supplying parts or replies to threads through out this board. Â Just reading many of the threads here, you can learn tons. Rich 2-21-04 Added 3"exhaust. 11-2-04 Added 1G MAS and BOV Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shift1313 Posted June 13, 2003 Report Share Posted June 13, 2003 Thats great to hear, glad its running good, i agree about the compression thing. i think when the time rolls around im going to shoot for 8.5:1 to actually get close to 8, how they figure these things is beyond me. any comments on the total seal rings? the piston slap im told is normal with forged pistons until warm up, extra important to let that baby run. cant wait to hear more good news, any plans for an exhaust upgrade? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boosted_One Posted June 13, 2003 Report Share Posted June 13, 2003 that's great! I'm happy for you! I am right around 7.5 :1 also with 8:1 JE pistons from TEP. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richie_Rich Posted June 13, 2003 Author Report Share Posted June 13, 2003 The total seal rings seems to be working fine. Maybe next week, I'll do a compression check. I don't have the correct gauge to check leak down. Â Maybe I'll have to get the correct fitting. Â My gauge looks like a pistol and you push it agaist the spark plug threads. I'd like to get Kelly's 3" exhaust. Â When My current system starts rusting out, that's what I'll go with. I expected the piston slap. The Wiseco's have pretty short skirts. Thanks for the well wishes Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dcrasta Posted June 13, 2003 Report Share Posted June 13, 2003 Man that cars gonna be a monsta please break it in gently.. :'( Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim_C. Posted June 13, 2003 Report Share Posted June 13, 2003 That's fantasic! Glad you got that baby going! I don't have many mods yet, but this is a breif summary of the build. Don't have many mods! Ha Ha! Mine is very very smooth too, and I didn't come close to the perfection you have in yours, so I can only imagine. I have a feeling my compression is 7.5:1 or less too, with my JE 8:1's. I still think flattops would be too high though. Like closer to 9:1. Exhaust will be a big increase for that engine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Welderwiz Posted June 14, 2003 Report Share Posted June 14, 2003 Rich Congrats on the completion of your expedition!!!! That sounds like it should perform well but also be very reliable, key word being "reliable". Could there be any other causes of the oil pressure prob besides the pump? Hope its not too serious. What are you running in the way of the turbo? Best of luck Mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richie_Rich Posted June 14, 2003 Author Report Share Posted June 14, 2003 Mark, Currently I still have the stock turbo. I'm not planning to boosting much over stock. Upgrading the turbo to something that spools faster may come, but there are many other things to do first. The exhaust being one of them. The turbo does has a bit of play, but it doesn't contact the housing at all, so I think I'm alright for a while. I do have a backup turbo from an '86 parts car. Rich Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richie_Rich Posted June 14, 2003 Author Report Share Posted June 14, 2003 UPDATE: I just connected a Sunpro mechanical oil pressure gauge from Autozone up. It showed about 80psi at cold idle. I'm sure I don't have an oil pressure problem. ;D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
da_drgn Posted June 18, 2003 Report Share Posted June 18, 2003 Congrat's Rich, that's great you finally got her running. can't wait to get mine started... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quest4Power Posted June 18, 2003 Report Share Posted June 18, 2003 woo woo, it's always a good feeling. i just got my car drivable as well. can't wait to tune it and make some power. ;D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Morphing89TSI Posted June 22, 2003 Report Share Posted June 22, 2003 I read in one of the mags that the piston slap can be eliminated if your pistons are coated (heat treated). Anyone know from experience? Geoff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richie_Rich Posted June 22, 2003 Author Report Share Posted June 22, 2003 I don't think that a heat resistant coating would help much if any. This problem is mainly with forged pistons. They expand more than cast, so you initial clearance has to be more. I don't know if the heat resistant coating would make the piston expand less overall. If so, I guess you could tighten up the initial clearance a bit. The reason the pistons are slapping is the skirts are pretty short and the pin is centered in the piston. I didn't measure the stock pistons, but on many engines, they off set the pin slightly so the pistons don't rattle. This is only a problem during warm up. Once the piston heats up, it expands to reduce the piston to wall clearance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusky Posted June 23, 2003 Report Share Posted June 23, 2003 Hey Rich, Glad to see that you got your motor together. That seems to be almost the same setup I am shooting for, except you're about 4 months ahead of me. Do you think the other wrist pins you ordered are a big difference compared to the ones from Midwest's GP? If so, how much are they and how can I order them? As I get closer to my rebuild, I will probably ask you more questions about your motor. ;D I'm very happy to see that the components I am planning on using are being tested as we speak. About how much did you spend on the machine work, so I can get a rough estimate? Great work Rich and thanks for the Marnal valve GP, got mine last week. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richie_Rich Posted June 23, 2003 Author Report Share Posted June 23, 2003 The lighter pins are only about $5 ea. They are considerably lighter. I weighed them, but can't find that sheet of notes yet. As far as machine cost go, my friend owns the shop and I help or do some things myself so the costs are not typical. I think I paid him about $400 to 600 for everything. That included some parts like the BS elimination kit and gaskets. If you are going to try and assemble everything yourself, Enco has a 0 to 6" import mic set for about $60. I was very impressed with the quality for a cheapy set considering a name brand set is 10 times the price. I also bought my caliper, inside snap gauges and dial indicator stand from KBC tools. Rich Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
artinist Posted October 14, 2003 Report Share Posted October 14, 2003 Hey Rich, how are things with the new motor? you should have some good miles put on it by now. is the oil pressure still good? is the factory gauge still off? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richie_Rich Posted October 14, 2003 Author Report Share Posted October 14, 2003 Engine is going great. I've got just over 6K on it. I still want ot experiment, but will probably end up getting a Krank Vent system. I start to blow oil when under boost or at high RPM's. Everything I've read says this is due to using Total Seal rings. I probably won't do that again. For the street, I don't think they are worth it. The motor runs very smooth. Yes, there is a little vibration in the shift handle, but at 90 MPH, it's like glass. Rich Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
artinist Posted October 14, 2003 Report Share Posted October 14, 2003 so did you reuse your old oil pump or did you get a new one? i am about to rebuild my engine and it has about 50k miles on it. i dont think i need a new pump. i am about to order a new gauge to verify correct pressure before and after rebuild. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richie_Rich Posted October 14, 2003 Author Report Share Posted October 14, 2003 I had bought a parts car that had a supposed recent rebuild that was done wrong. The balance shaft bearing was spun and the head wasn't even torqued down correctly. The oil pump from that engine looked really nice, so I used it. Take the pump apart carefull not to bend the cover plate. You have to work it off the little studs. Check for gaulling on the plate and in the casting. If it doesn't look too bad, you should be OK. The Manual has a small section about checking the oil pump. In the '86 manual it's on page 9-40. My oil pressure at warm idle is around 50psi. At 2000 rpm it's around 85psi. Make sure you replace the O-ring for the oil cooler and filter adapter. I didn't and now it looks to be leaking. Rich Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
swissfacade Posted February 8, 2004 Report Share Posted February 8, 2004 Hey Rich Thanks for the roller rocker information, I hope to start assembling my engine in a few weeks. It is always awesome to hear about another starquest owner when his car is running great, I have tried to explain to my friends and coworkers alike the experience in owning and driving a Conquest TSi. swissfacade Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4bz Posted February 8, 2004 Report Share Posted February 8, 2004 Good to hear you got it back on the road, I know the feeling. Mines down but not out for a minute. I have tried to explain to my friends and coworkers alike the experience in owning and driving a Conquest TSi. They never understand and sadly never will. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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