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  • Interests
    87 conquest TSI
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    southern california

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  1. Rich Picked up the head on will call late yesterday............ These people are really neat to deal with!! Thats to say you did a hell of a job setting this up!!! I just wish you could see this place, 10 lbs in a 5lb box!!! Great job Rich, thanx again Mark
  2. Art Please put me down for the rear camber plates as well. I presume the adjustable shocks, you say not for daily driver, are too stiff? What combo do you reccommend for daily driver??? Gotta do the front too, steer me the right way here Art!! Thanx Mark
  3. Art Any time is good for me, im just curious as to how stiff the 450/350 spring rates are for a daily driver? Any chance of getting anything a tad lighter? Can always add a heavier anti sway bar or stiffen the shock adjustment!!! Thanx again for doing this GP Mark
  4. All right Art, twisted my arm hard enough............... Im in!!! Mark
  5. I made my lines front and back in one piece, used 90 degree angle fittings at the transition on the frame then routed same as stock. Works real nice and still able to remove calipers from brackets with out having to disconnect the lines. Just remember that these lines are NOT lifetime hoses, they must be replaced just like the rubber ones!!!
  6. Rob The LM1 is a portable unit not really designed to be left in the car and the AEM unit requires components that are extra in cost resulting in the prices beeing pretty comparable. I'll look into your previous write up and see whats there. Im after a data logging unit that can be left in the car and look like it belongs there such as the PLX or DJ.
  7. The wideband system will only read the A/F ratio very accurately, you will need a tuning device such as Ramchargers translator or an equivalent to do any tuning adjustments. The Dyno Jet system will come with a analog guage which is far more accurate that the Autometer style LED guages. The PLX system has a digital readout on the controller. In order to run the Autometer type narrow band guages on the DJ or PLX requires an adapter......... extra cost! The retail prices of the PLX M500 is $499 and the retail cost of the DJ is $560. Both are data logging units that use the Bosch LSU4 sensor. The M500 is wireless whereas the DJ uses a cable. Both units use 10 samples per second sampling rate only difference is the DJ holds 10 minutes where the PLX holds 60 minutes of log time. Pros and cons to the units......... lets see what prices you can come up with? Mark
  8. I would be interested as well............. also looking into the unit made by Dyno-Jet, the dyno manufacturer. Lots of details to compare........ data logging, samples per second, total time of sampling, etc. Someone care to pick up the ball on this one? Mark
  9. CJ You are VERY correct in that warpage is significant in the "Heat affected zones" as well as the material thickness change areas. 3/8 thick flange for the intake is fine, 1/2 is of no benefit. CNC milling machine can do this flange with one cutter but not very cost efficient as compared to water jet in quantity........ accurate and faster than machining! As far as designing a intake manifold, dont think for a minute that welding tubes together will get the job done............ biggest concern is distance from valve to plenum. This affects the pulse timing that will hinder performance as fast as help it! There are other factors as well. As for machining the flange after welding......... thats the easy part. Mark
  10. Im still willing to put these gaskets in stock only if the response is worth while. So far only a few folks have said they definitely want them after lots of people saying "ya sure" : If you would like to have access to these gaskets please make a commitment so I dont have to eat 2 dozen gaskets ??? Mark
  11. Art As I look back on the posts of this situation, im thinking the original prob was a an incomplete bleeding of the system. I wasnt aware of the piston size that was beeing used in this situation however it should be functioning with a solid pedal only to change how far it travels or how hard it is to push it (trying to keep it simple here). As for removal of a booster, I stop my big 1964 Plymouth stationwagon with manual discs with no big effort at all! I can lock them up if I want to!!! Apply pressures can be varied by the brake pedal arm length as well as M/C diameter or caliper piston diameter. Most of the variance that you feel means a significant hydraulic pressure difference. Try playing with air brakes some time!!! Air brake pressure increases as you press harder on the pedal whereas hydraulic is almost the same as you increase apply pressure at the pedal. I hope I havent confused anyone here, im just trying to make the other folks reading this understand that brake systems are "systems" not just a mix and match program. Thanx Mark
  12. Oscar The master cyl I mentioned from Mopar is a Mopar Perf part, that means universal application. One would have to change the bolt pattern ( redrill the firewall). Art, is there a reason for wanting to use a booster for this application? It is definitely not necessary to use one and you will get a much better pedal feel without it. I have not pulled a booster off the firewall of these cars but cant imagine the reinforcement plate beeing too small to re-drill for a master cyl only application. If everyone wants a booster, then make it easy on yourselves and just get a package and mount it in the trunk area!!! No different than under the floor or remote like trucks use. I really think we are making this more difficult than need be.............. I will do some number crunching on Saturday and come up with a cylinder bore requirement, then its up to you folks which cylinder you like the best. Mark
  13. Oscar With regards to the calipers, I didnt know they were 4 piston units, therefore you are correct about needing more fluid per pedal stroke. The fact that the hot rod shop that "bores out" the master ??? The factories (Bendix, Raybestos, etc.) use the same cylinder castings for numerous applications, but change the bore size! That hot rod shop you mention is just swapping part numbers based on experience! Like I said, same casting/different bore/different part number. The car doesnt care what the master looks like or what it comes from, so lets look at bore size in relation to what we started with. Someone mentioned 15/16, that is available from Mopar perf in the same size with increased travel/fluid displacement. It is also available in 1" and I think 1 1/16" as well. They are a plastic reservoir with a aluminum body. You can also get a similar thing in a For or Chevy iron housing unit. Keep in mind now that adjustable proportioning valves are not going to change anything but front to rear bias. No matter what route we go here, you are still going to have to form brake lines and re-engineer some things. Sorry guys, my mind is going faster than the fingers can type!!! I hope I am making sense to someone? Adapter plates to mount a master are the easy part. I havent paid that much attention to the stock firewall as it may have enough "meat" in it to just re-drill the bolt pattern of a new master!! Now we have the push rod dilemma!!! Can we build a better car than Mitsu- of course! Can we build 500,000 of them......................... NOT!!! If there are any of you folks that will attend the SO Cal meet on the 25th, I would enjoy discussing this subject and trying to iron out the details. The first version of these type operations are always challenging!!! Mark
  14. The best option to go with would be to eliminate the booster all together as it isnt necessary. The next thing you need to understand is that your system is closed, therefore volume is mostly fixed! This means that the pistons at the caliper end only moves a maximum of .030 of an inch!!! Larger M/C bore means softer pedal feel with more fluid flow/piston travel. Likewise a smaller M/C bore is firmer feel with less fluid flow/piston travel. Im not familiar with the kit Oscar supplied however I would be able to tell you what is needed for a master if you can tell me what caliper piston size and number of pistons per caliper you are using. Understand that pedal feel varies by driver comfort and how touchy you like the pedal. Furthermore, if you dont have "steel braid " hoses on the car by now, you have already missed the boat for good feeling brakes!!! I have designed many race and street rod brake systems and can tell you it is a very sensitive area to experiment with especially on a street driven car due to liability reasons. So please guys, be carefull with what you are doing............... get in a accident with modded brakes and it is automatically your fault!!! Lawyers are wonderfull predators!!! Mark PS: Dont use a bored or modded master cylinder Also, the "hydro-boost" system that ties in with the power steering is not a cost effective system or very well suited to a Quest
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