Lets play estimate my horsepower lol

[ernielist]

Heres what I got

 

Motor rebuild w 20k on the clock 1989 motor and ecu

BSE Kit completed

Jet Valves eliminated

AC removed

KN Airfilter/cold air induction kit

Accel Coil

All new ignition and fuel components(NGK plugs as recommended with .40 - .39 gap, stock fuel pressure)

10.5 lbs of boost from 12a

Precat and cat removed, stock exhuast otherwise.

BOV Valve

Hard pipe OVCP

No secondary airbox

 

I was hoping that I was getting about 210 horsepower? Is that too much to ask? Or what lol.

Edited February 1, 2009 by ernielist

[Sully]

yes your asking for alot. 150whp close to 200ftlbs Edited January 29, 2009 by Sully

[silkdagger05]

Heres what I got

 

Motor rebuild w 20k on the clock 1989 motor and ecu

BSE Kit completed

Jet Valves eliminated

AC removed

KN Airfilter

Accel Coil

All new ignition and fuel components

10.5 lbs of boost from 12a

Precat and cat removed, stock exhuast otherwise.

 

I was hoping that I was getting about 210 horsepower? Is that too much to ask? Or what lol.

yeah I might be doing 200 hp ground and over 230trq. and I got double that. and 13 psi. 14b.

I am dyeing for the dyno ^^ SPRING GET HERE!

Edited January 29, 2009 by silkdagger05

[chiplee]

Heres what I got

 

Motor rebuild w 20k on the clock 1989 motor and ecu

BSE Kit completed

KN Airfilter

Accel Coil

Precat and cat removed, stock exhuast otherwise.

 

I was hoping that I was getting about 210 horsepower? Is that too much to ask? Or what lol.

 

I've removed the things from your "mods list" that we would not expect to effect HP. What's left is a relatively mild list of basic things that might have improved flow and reduced rotating mass (slightly) and gotten you 10 or 15hp over stock as a combined effect. The filter is not the restriction in our intakes though, and an unclogged cat is not much of a restriction in the exhaust at stock boost levels either, so you should expect to be right at stock output, which is more than most 20 year old cars can say. I honestly think your mods are about as far as people should go on stock fuel. I wish we could get it through our heads to improve fuel flow BEFORE improving air flow. Too much fuel doesn't break many motors, but too much air does. I'm a simple guy. I'd add fuel first if I had it to do over again.

Edited January 29, 2009 by chiplee

[89PalermoSHP]

I'm a simple guy. I'd add fuel first if I had it to do over again.

 

Amen to that brother...

[Chad]

Just so everyone is using the same points of refrence, the stock 87 setup is rated at ~177 flywheel HP at 7.5 PSI, and has been shown to put out about 135 Rearwheel HP.

 

The 88/89 setup puts out about 188 flywheel, so using the same loss factor (.762:1), you can expect a stock 88/89 setup to have about 143 rearwheel HP. Now add your mods and I too feel 150-160 RWHP is a fair estimate, which is probably about 197 - 209 flywheel HP.

 

Topend performance usd to claim that removing the BS's freed up about 18 HP, I've never seen anything to prove that, and it seems to not stand up to logic anyway. It deffinatly changes the responce of the motor, but I dont' think it's 18+ new-found HP.

 

the air filter probalby gave you 5-12 HP, so that is what I'm giving most of the credit for.

 

Yeares ago, CNM I belive dynoed about 15 HP going from a bone stock exhaust to catless 3" at stock boost. Thus, I'd think just gutting the cat's alone is 5-8 HP at best. like the BS elimination, it deffinatly changes the responce and will deffinatly change the power curve, but don't think it's so much of a power increaser.

 

HKS used to advertize their cat-back system as having a ~10 HP gain, but I never felt it when I put mine on.

 

When I gutted my cats, I felt a change in avaiable power, but it didnt' really feel like it was more power, just came on sooner and easier.

 

Removing the jet valves on a stock car likely reduces total power as you no longer get the swirling air charge which increases burn efficency. It's still a good mod, lots of us have had or seen jet-valve damaged motors. Jetvalves are a good idea, but not executed well.

 

You shoudl do a dyno pull, maybe you can prove some theories that we've long had about basic mods, but have never really been proven.

 

Some of these mods will only yield big gains when you turn up the boost, they don't do much for power at stock levels. They are still god mods to do, and you'll likely see a big improvement in milage if you dont' start hot-rodding it with the new-felt power.

[86TSiGuy]

188@flywheel (+)

 

Jet Valves eliminated

AC removed

KN Airfilter = 2Hp

 

Accel Coil = 1Hp

Precat and cat removed, stock exhuast otherwise = 6Hp

BSE Kit completed = 5Hp

10.5 lbs of boost from 12a = 0Hp

 

Total =202Hp @ flywheel X (.762) drive train loss = 154Hp @ the wheels.

Just my 2 cents.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Dan_Brew]

233whp....295wtq....Danbrew

Stock 88/89 ECU / Stock Block / Caravan Head / 52mm TB / Walbro 255 / 14b TD05 @ 20psi / 2.5 Exhaust / 93oct

 

http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u37/philpressure/Dyno%20Forum/TBI%20Forum/Danbrew_car.jpg

 

NJV Head-Mech. lifters-Ported & stress relived manifold-14b Turbo port matched exhaust housing-Fully ported 52mm intake & TBI knife edged-TEP hard pipes-HKS BOV-2.5" exhaust-Act clutch-1G mass-AEM wide band-ARP studded-255 fuel pump

 

That is my list and what I did a week ago. The 1G mass was holding me back along with the small turbo. I was holding 10.5 afr at 20 lbs.

 

Im going to guess your around 150-160hp

[darthconquest]

233whp....295wtq....Danbrew

Stock 88/89 ECU / Stock Block / Caravan Head / 52mm TB / Walbro 255 / 14b TD05 @ 20psi / 2.5 Exhaust / 93oct

 

http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u37/philpressure/Dyno%20Forum/TBI%20Forum/Danbrew_car.jpg

 

NJV Head-Mech. lifters-Ported & stress relived manifold-14b Turbo port matched exhaust housing-Fully ported 52mm intake & TBI knife edged-TEP hard pipes-HKS BOV-2.5" exhaust-Act clutch-1G mass-AEM wide band-ARP studded-255 fuel pump

 

That is my list and what I did a week ago. The 1G mass was holding me back along with the small turbo. I was holding 10.5 afr at 20 lbs.

 

Im going to guess your around 150-160hp

 

what is your afr now

 

[ernielist]

what is your afr now

 

 

Thanks for all of the info I just want to be in the 200 to 210 HP range. If I push the boost up to 12 ya think that would help or what other mods do yall recommend? And thats crank horsepower I am looking for not RWHP

Edited January 30, 2009 by ernielist

[Strickdawg]

2.5 in exhaust with dp

1g mas or Maf-T with 3in gm mas

2 green injectors(or upgrade to different injectors)

turn boost up on 12a(add real boost gauge)

boost controller

wideband o2 sensor and gauge

hp cam(and hope that stock head hold up to all the power)

 

About $1000 more and you are on the way to 210 rwhp

[Dan_Brew]

what is your afr now

 

I turned the boost back down to 18lbs and it is stuck on 10.0 afr at full boost witch is as far as my wide band reads.

 

[Dan_Brew]

Thanks for all of the info I just want to be in the 200 to 210 HP range. If I push the boost up to 12 ya think that would help or what other mods do yall recommend? And thats crank horsepower I am looking for not RWHP

 

I recommend a wide band first.

 

You need to know where your afr is at.

Friend of mine had 1g mass 3in exhaust upgraded plugs and wires 12a at 15lbs made 198hp to the rear tires

 

[Strickdawg]

Man I might be better than I think then. I was told with what I have I would be pushing maybe 210 rwhp. I wanted 225-250 rwhp. I was told I would have to change my cam and fuel pump to hit what I want

 

 

 

Stock rebuild

clearwater head

trilogy injectors

msd coil

maf-t w/3 in gm mas

wideband

small 16g turbo

hardpipes

2.5 in exhaust(no cats)

8mm wires

upgraded plugs

89 ecu

may have forgot a few things

Edited January 30, 2009 by Strickdawg

[D_Venable]

first things first, get rid of the accel coil, it will fail on you, I found out the hard way, as have many others. Put a MSD Blaster 2 coil in there, same price as the accel, but MUCH better

[Technology]

My accel was ok until I sold it to go MPI.

 

If you want anywhere close to 200whp, you will need to seriously crank the boost. Just get a 1G mass air sensor and turn off the wastegate. Disable it. a 3" exhaust will definately help in the power department. Don't bother with a cam, it might get you 10hp, but you'll loose 20-30 lbs of torque, and that is what puts you back in the seat. So, forget the cam.

 

Hard intercooler pipes will help the boost come on faster. Ohh, lets see. If you want to do free dremel mods, that's always a good place to spend time.

 

Don't do anything I just said.

[ernielist]

first things first, get rid of the accel coil, it will fail on you, I found out the hard way, as have many others. Put a MSD Blaster 2 coil in there, same price as the accel, but MUCH better

 

Yea I dumped the accel in favor of a stocker for know. I was having hesitation probs and thought the coil was the culprit, turned out it wasn't. I think I will work on exhuast next and go with the 2.5 inch exhuast with a 3 inch downpipe. Any recommendations on an aftermarket muffler or should I stick swith the stock unit?

[86TSiGuy]

Thanks for all of the info I just want to be in the 200 to 210 HP range. If I push the boost up to 12 ya think that would help or what other mods do yall recommend? And thats crank horsepower I am looking for not RWHP

 

210 @ flywheel will be easy for you.

 

First things first; all the advice you will get on here assumes that the car is running well, unless otherwise stated by you.

 

If you want to save some cash at first and 210 is your goal then start by ditching your gutted cat in favor of a 2.5" piece.

I recommend *DM's because you can still mount it up with the stock b-pipe.

That will get you 2-4hp over what your getting out of the gutted unit.

With it you can remove the secondary air box as well.

 

Next get a nice set of hardpipes, aluminum if you can afford it.

If you buy them in stages start with the AHP or the OVCP, stay away from models with cheap knock-off BOV's unless you plan on shelling out for a good BOV/BPV or just have a plate fitted over the flange and forget it all together for now.

You won't get much more responsiveness at stock boost on this set-up anyway.

An AHP is worth about 2-4Hp, and the OVCP about 3-5Hp, a whole set could get you as much as 10-15Hp.

 

Leave the boost alone until you can monitor it with a wideband o2.

At most do the DIY wastegate mod and turn it up to 11.5psi.

That's worth about 8Hp on a 12a in this trim.

 

After that finish off the exhaust in 2.5-3" depending on your final power goal. Go 3" if it's over say 270HP at the flywheel.

Otherwise stick to 2.5" you'll probably end up getting better off-boost driveability.

 

Add in the BOV/BPV.

 

And then work your way through the fuel system,

After hat you can go a lot of different ways.

 

Now a lot of people are going to disagree on this, I suggest you take it all in and average it out.

Just my 2 cents.

 

[NWStarionModder]

Guys he has 210 flywheel hp just like he guessed!

 

210 @ flywheel will be easy for you.

 

First things first; all the advice you will get on here assumes that the car is running well, unless otherwise stated by you.

 

If you want to save some cash at first and 210 is your goal then start by ditching your gutted cat in favor of a 2.5" piece.

I recommend *DM's because you can still mount it up with the stock b-pipe.

That will get you 2-4hp over what your getting out of the gutted unit.

With it you can remove the secondary air box as well.

 

Next get a nice set of hardpipes, aluminum if you can afford it.

If you buy them in stages start with the AHP or the OVCP, stay away from models with cheap knock-off BOV's unless you plan on shelling out for a good BOV/BPV or just have a plate fitted over the flange and forget it all together for now.

You won't get much more responsiveness at stock boost on this set-up anyway.

An AHP is worth about 2-4Hp, and the OVCP about 3-5Hp, a whole set could get you as much as 10-15Hp.

 

Leave the boost alone until you can monitor it with a wideband o2.

At most do the DIY wastegate mod and turn it up to 11.5psi.

That's worth about 8Hp on a 12a in this trim.

 

After that finish off the exhaust in 2.5-3" depending on your final power goal. Go 3" if it's over say 270HP at the flywheel.

Otherwise stick to 2.5" you'll probably end up getting better off-boost driveability.

 

Add in the BOV/BPV.

 

And then work your way through the fuel system,

After hat you can go a lot of different ways.

 

Now a lot of people are going to disagree on this, I suggest you take it all in and average it out.

Just my 2 cents.

 

[Truth]

my mods are in the sig, as well as the dyno numbers from when i didn't have the translator to tune it with. at WOT, it wasn't even registering on my wideband, so it was under 10:1 and it still put those numbers down. no telling what it'll do now that it's tuned.

[ernielist]

210 @ flywheel will be easy for you.

 

First things first; all the advice you will get on here assumes that the car is running well, unless otherwise stated by you.

 

If you want to save some cash at first and 210 is your goal then start by ditching your gutted cat in favor of a 2.5" piece.

I recommend *DM's because you can still mount it up with the stock b-pipe.

That will get you 2-4hp over what your getting out of the gutted unit.

With it you can remove the secondary air box as well.

 

Next get a nice set of hardpipes, aluminum if you can afford it.

If you buy them in stages start with the AHP or the OVCP, stay away from models with cheap knock-off BOV's unless you plan on shelling out for a good BOV/BPV or just have a plate fitted over the flange and forget it all together for now.

You won't get much more responsiveness at stock boost on this set-up anyway.

An AHP is worth about 2-4Hp, and the OVCP about 3-5Hp, a whole set could get you as much as 10-15Hp.

 

Leave the boost alone until you can monitor it with a wideband o2.

At most do the DIY wastegate mod and turn it up to 11.5psi.

That's worth about 8Hp on a 12a in this trim.

 

After that finish off the exhaust in 2.5-3" depending on your final power goal. Go 3" if it's over say 270HP at the flywheel.

Otherwise stick to 2.5" you'll probably end up getting better off-boost driveability.

 

Add in the BOV/BPV.

 

And then work your way through the fuel system,

After hat you can go a lot of different ways.

 

Now a lot of people are going to disagree on this, I suggest you take it all in and average it out.

Just my 2 cents.

 

Yea i forgot to post that I already have a BOV and a hard pipe for the OVCP pipe. I will do the wastegate mod too. The car is running well. I also have an aftermarket cold air induction kit with the KN, no stock airbox and the scondary airbox has already been removed sorry, forgot all of that stuff lol.