NWStarionModder

pull an injector out and see if it is working while car is being turned over can test primary..if your ecu didnt work you would know it!

I just got one brand new from dad for 12$!! Is yours gold plated with diamonds embedded on the inside?

LOL, I have a box of stuff like that man. The factory used a lot of bolts that I didnt. You should start a box, and if you car blows up or falls apart youll know then that you got the bolts!

It looks like it is behind the camshaft, theres a large hole there about the size of 1"-1.5" and looks like it might take a plug of some sort to stop oil or water from going somewhere? This is when the valve cover is off and looking down on the head I can noticeabally see something missing ..napa and schucks don't know what there dong so I need a part number or part name for them to order! The winner gets a brand new car and a trip to round trip to austrailia to buy my some parts j/k but you could pat yourself on the back and seem if you know the answer! PLEASE HELP ASAP, lol i am putting my engine in today, or going to try

I dont think thats an SHP nor are those 9's in the rear, but nice color!

Guys he has 210 flywheel hp just like he guessed!

I think its 1/8 NPT

The mass air flow gives the ecu a different reading to make your set up run richer in most cases. Also most mass air flow's flow better than ares so more air can get in easier. GM mass air's can be run as draw or blow thru set ups and are much smaller and better in appearence. In order to run them we use a maft and this give us easy wiring and tuning also. As long as you have a way to tune your a/f's like a wide band then thats a great upgrade! Cheap to!

Id get a bigger turbo, and you can either have mechanical or roller rockers I think...roller setup will cost more money and take more time, just get the mechanical setup with the stock cam for what your doing. Also maybe stock valves with HD valve springs would suit you fine also. The maft-pro is great! I think your on the right track and with all that you will be happy if you look at our dyno section you will see many with similar setups around 240whp and 300+ torque..

Another post like this that requires editing due to known profanity will result in your suspension from SQC. Jimmy

a 16g compressor wheel and 16g turbo are different in most cases but mostly cost. Being able to keep the boost at 7.5 or 10, he will not be at that 260 mark....but higher than stock so he wont have to worry about fuel issues...nor would you need a fuel controller or ecu at that boost level. Now sense he has a 16g COMPRESSOR WHEEL, a 3" exhaust is needed, and is better than a 2.5 also in everyway! Read our forums more and find the dynos On a stock system a 3" exhaust is better than a 2.5 also if im not mistaken...point was evan the stock turbo at 15 psi is nothing..so dont waste your time or money to turn the boost up! Spend 700$ and ahve the 16g compressor wheel and 3" on the 10psi nipple and youd be much happier

thats cause yuo have an exhaust and or vacuum leak

Just leave it at 7, if you want ot make your car faster get a 16g compressor wheel and 3" exhaust

Yes, Im pretty sure thats a lifter ticking, but it could be an exhaust leak?

If you can put a small piece of something down in so the chain stays on and the tensioners dont move to much, the chain should stay in place and theres a bolt that needs to come off I believe then the gear comes out with a little nudge, the idea is to not let the chain fall out of place! Should be able to do it with only the valve cover off.

Im not buying pit bosses! How do you lose 100 ft lbs of torque? If its real, why did you post it..lol?

I dont know if any of that made sense to me...no offense. Spark plugs have two things they do. They ignite the air/fuel mixture of coarse, and they tranfer heat from the combustion chamber. The main thing is that the tip if that spark plug has an operating temperature of 500c-850c, if it gets hotter than 850c the ceramic around the elctrode melts and then the elctrode melts...then pre-ignition/detonation or bad, expensive things happen. If it gets colder than 500c the spark plug cant burn carbon and and deposits so this leads to fouling/mis firing. You can look at your plug and see these things im describing yourself and know if your rich or lean. Anyways we all know a spark plug change doesn't give you more voltage, simply a different size/style of spark if that, so not much in performace gains unless we get ignition mods..a spark plug also removes heat from your combustion chamber basically by how long the tip/body of the plug is. The shorter plug/tip allows for more heat to be removed from the combustion chamber, and at a faster rate also. If you put a hotter plug in your car then you will probably blow your engine up...because that will make things hotter, thats all, which is what we don't want, we want colder. Not to cold though to where your misfiring or fouling plugs, so you have to find the right plug for your vegicle depending mainly on your mods. A stock car with the stock plug at stock a/r ratios burns fairly well. If you change your compression ratio, or piston tops such as domed or dished, camshaft, smaller combustion chamber volume, turbo, boost or timing then these things can increase combustion chamber temps and you will need a different/colder plug. Heat range is basically the tip temperature in a way, if you change your heat range in your plug by 1, then the operating temperature of the tip will increase or decrease 70-100c depending if you go higher or lower in the heat range, higher is colder. Advancing the timing 10 degrees will increase the tip temperature 70-100c also. Other small mods may effect this temperature also as well as barometric pressure, altitude, air temperature, humidity, engine speed and engine load. Rich a/f make tip temp drop when lean makes tip temp increase. Look for pre-ignition, Detonation, Misfiring, and fouling, sometime changing your plug will help or fix these problems and maybe caused by your spark plugs but this is just 1 small thing in your engine, almost another mod. All your mods must be tuned to the correct a/f ratios or you will be effed badly in the end and changing your spark plug is just a small factor in that process. I hope that helps I am going to stop now or I will get into it in depth and we dont want that so look at your plug, what does it look like? This can tell you if you need to change it Post a pic of it on here if you want

either jet valves or non jet valves, mechanical or hydraulic lifters, personally would want the mechanical-non jet vavle head...Also check between valves in combustion chambers as this is where these heads are proned to cracking..9-10 head I have seen off a stock starion conquest is cracked in atleast one of the combustion chambers right in between the valves..hope that helps ya

whats wrong with your stock one? It can be rebuilt..or you can go on ebay and find them for around 80$ in the below ebay motors section for starion turbo. Thats the best I have done, miht be cheaper to rebuild but im not sure whats wrong with it if anthing

yes. I bet that when you installed your new video card, you unplugged the cpu fan on top of the heat sink. Chek for a small fan wire that plugs into your mother board. Also check to see if your heatsink is completly locked down.

damper, please explain what this is and does and where it is?

what does the cavuum line your taking off go to? If you can, just tap it into a similar setting in your lines, or plug it if its not needed.

doesnt really matter but i would use the 88 one for now, Chilton's works good for me. Most the vacuum lines are pointless you should look into eliminiating them, i have 4, one for my dist, one for my regualtor and one for my wastgate and one for my bov

Lol! not with the 12a! You can weld the wastegate shut and just worry about the turbo blowing up..knock sensors and fuel cut help us also!

Where do they crack?