Zeljko Posted October 7, 2008 Report Share Posted October 7, 2008 I think I have a problem with turbocharger, but very strange. Well turbine works, you hear the sound you have to hear but the car is not behaving like he has to. He hasnt have the force what it should have. So now one member here is selling me MAS. But maybe there is also a problem with tubes ? Turbo is not covered with oil, it is not beahaving strange or make strange sounds but he doesent make 0.5 kg/cm3 on full throttle. Any suggestions? So in short: Turbo sounds ok, and cars sounds ok but it dosent run with full power and gauge doesnt show 0.5kg/cm3 as he should. Thank you all Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JAinsworth Posted October 7, 2008 Report Share Posted October 7, 2008 Check on the side of the turbo and see if the wastegate arm came off. Jimmy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zeljko Posted October 7, 2008 Author Report Share Posted October 7, 2008 Hi, thank you for your fast reply, but how does that wastegate look like? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Technology Posted October 7, 2008 Report Share Posted October 7, 2008 It's connected to the turbo on the bottom. It is round and has a vacuum line connected to it. There's an arm that goes to the back of the turbo and should be connected back there. There can be many different things causing your problem, we can help, but we need to see if everything else is working properly. Good luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Technology Posted October 7, 2008 Report Share Posted October 7, 2008 BTW, .5kg/cm3 is 7 psi. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JAinsworth Posted October 7, 2008 Report Share Posted October 7, 2008 Look on page 11-2 of the 88 FSM to see the rod from the wastegate actuator to the turbo. If it has came off on the turbo end, you will not boost. The manual can be viewed online at www.starquestgarage.com Ignore the "under construction" message and click on service manuals. Choose the 88 manual. Here is a link to the wastegate page: http://www.starquestgarage.com/manuals/ser...aust_system.pdf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zeljko Posted October 7, 2008 Author Report Share Posted October 7, 2008 Thank you all for your help I will see this first thing in the morning, I hope that this is a problem Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JAinsworth Posted October 7, 2008 Report Share Posted October 7, 2008 What year model is your car? They have different max. boost levels from the factory. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wolf87Conquest Posted October 8, 2008 Report Share Posted October 8, 2008 If your car has the factory boost guage only, they are not very accurate. You can check if the turbo is ok...remove the air filter can pipe at the front of the turbo, enough so you can reach in and grasp the shaft end. Now try pushing in and pulling toward you...it should not move in either direction much at all. the same thing if you attempt to push it towards the outer housing (up/down). Check the actuator arm...make sure it does not bind...in or out. It should move freely at all times in both directions to full on and off. Leaking air pipes from turbo to intercooler to TB can cause this as well. You might want to check them and the clamps. The factory cloth pipes need carefull inspection. Abrasions should be even more carefully inspected. Even a leaking vac line to the actuator could be suspect. Good luck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zeljko Posted October 8, 2008 Author Report Share Posted October 8, 2008 Hi guys, thank you all for help We have boost 0.5-0.6 kg/cm2 Problem was so simple, that I cant belive it http://img515.imageshack.us/img515/8729/hpim2988yl2.th.jpghttp://img515.imageshack.us/images/thpix.gif I mark it with red! Intake tube was not in place , so air was everywhere but not in turbo . Thank you all! p.s. now I have new experience Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Technology Posted October 8, 2008 Report Share Posted October 8, 2008 (edited) Haha, that's great. Well stick around and post some more pictures of your car. When I look at the picture, I can't tell if your O2 sensor has a wire attached to it. Is that missing? Your car will run much better if it's replaced with a new one anyway. Edited October 8, 2008 by Technology Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zeljko Posted October 8, 2008 Author Report Share Posted October 8, 2008 O2? where is that? hehe Thank you all! I saw that i didnt answare about my car, the year is 1988. model? I dont know widebody with 2600ccm turbo. It is not Conquest, it is Starion, with regular manual A/C, not automatic as is in Conquest. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JAinsworth Posted October 8, 2008 Report Share Posted October 8, 2008 The O2 sensor is the thing that bolts to the pre-cat. (exhaust part coming out the back of the turbo) There should be a wire going to it. Page 14-60 on this link: http://www.starquestgarage.com/manuals/ser...fuel_system.pdf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fanta Posted October 8, 2008 Report Share Posted October 8, 2008 O2? where is that? hehe Thank you all! I saw that i didnt answare about my car, the year is 1988. model? I dont know widebody with 2600ccm turbo. It is not Conquest, it is Starion, with regular manual A/C, not automatic as is in Conquest. Automatic as in levers that you would have to move? That is different as here in the USA 1986 and up have automatic digital Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caliber308 Posted October 8, 2008 Report Share Posted October 8, 2008 Hi guys, thank you all for help We have boost 0.5-0.6 kg/cm2 Problem was so simple, that I cant belive it http://img515.imageshack.us/img515/8729/hpim2988yl2.th.jpghttp://img515.imageshack.us/images/thpix.gif I mark it with red! Intake tube was not in place , so air was everywhere but not in turbo . Thank you all! p.s. now I have new experience DUH!!!!!! :hmm3grin2orange: CALIBER 308 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Technology Posted October 8, 2008 Report Share Posted October 8, 2008 Hey, no need to say duh, he isn't a mechanic... yet. The OP's '88 has the 87 style knock/ignitor box and no solenoid for 2 stage boost control like ours. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustPaus_88TSi Posted October 8, 2008 Report Share Posted October 8, 2008 Most likely due to it being Euro-spec. They were like 155hp or something like that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caliber308 Posted October 9, 2008 Report Share Posted October 9, 2008 Hey, no need to say duh, he isn't a mechanic... yet. The OP's '88 has the 87 style knock/ignitor box and no solenoid for 2 stage boost control like ours. I was just kidding. :hmm3grin2orange: CALIBER 308 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikec Posted October 9, 2008 Report Share Posted October 9, 2008 That engine bay looks pretty much like a US spec 1987 setup. However, in the pic it looks like the oxygen sensor doesn't have an output wire - it looks busted off. Look for a round black connector in the piping & hose mess between the turbo heat shield and the firewall bodywork... near the windshield wiper motor. That'll be a multi-pin connector. One wire going into will be a braided shield; the other will be the center conductor. That center conductor is the signal wire the O2 sensor should feed. You can use pretty much any late-80s/early-90s style "one wire" oxygen sensor. Try to get one that has the football shaped (US football... not European soccer football!) mounting plate since it's almost impossible to unscrew the factory mounting plate from the old O2 sensor. Use Liquid Wrench or some similar product to soak the two small 10mm nuts holding the O2 sensor to the exhaust pipe... they tend to be darn hard to remove and can shear the studs if you don't use rust-buster stuff the day before. Other things I noticed in the picture: What is the small hose zip-tied to the valve cover rear breather port pipe? In the pic, it's the small white dash running left-right, roughly above the #4 cylinder spark plug. The metal pipe is for the oil separator system - a stock part... but what's the upside-down "U" shaped hose zip-tied to it? Love that over-long primary spark plug wire from the ignition coil to the distributor. The front suspension "isolators" are very worn on this car. The isolators are the black metal and rubber parts that the tops of the suspension mounts to; they're visible in the pics on the far left and right, poking through holes in the painted bodywork on the suspension towers. The little black rubber caps are supposed to be even with the black metal collars of the isolators... when the caps are waaayy higher than the collars, like they are in the picture, it means the rubber portion of the isolator is totally worn out. Dealer isolators are the best. Many aftermarket ones are made by Gabriel and they wear out after just a couple months. They aren't that hard to install but you need a "strut spring compressor" tool. In the US, most chain-style auto parts stores will rent them. Test the distributor vacuum advancer to see if it holds vacuum. It's the small round thing attached to the top of the distributor, just below the big radiator hose in the picture. Unplug the vac line going to it... and use a vacuum tester pump+guage, or just suck on a clean hose, to apply vacuum. See if the vacuum leaks down on it's own (cap the hose with your tongue if you aren't using a vacuum tester) - if the vacuum leaks down the advancer mechanism is shot and must be replaced. You'll feel a hesitation/buck when accelerating and the boost kicks in with a bad vac advancer... this "buck" is engine detonation which damages the engine internals. The picture also shows the "secondary air box" is still installed on this engine. That's the black box at the top/front of the valve cover. It's common for the vacuum actuator on the side of this to leak as well. Test it the same way as the distributor one. Many folks remove the secondary airbox, and the metal pipe it hooks to that runs behind the engine to the exhaust, to clean up the engine bay. This is okay if you don't have to worry about smog/emission tests where you live. If the box works though I'd leave it installed: it helps the catalytic converters do their job, removing this box makes the cat converters work harder (StarQuests idle very rich, this box compensates for the over-rich exhaust) shortening their lives. Overall though that engine bay pic looks pretty good - this car has not been molested. You found one that looks to be "all there." So many out there have been hacked to bits. mike c. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zeljko Posted October 9, 2008 Author Report Share Posted October 9, 2008 Hi Thank you mikec for so many advices as to you all thank you! 2Caliber308: yes, I am new to this engine If you ask me about boxer engine from VW Beetle I am expert there, but 2.6 turbo new for me. So i need new 02 sensor, yes I know I dont have one that works where to find that? ebay? Is 02 sensor conected to fuel consuption? "What is the small hose zip-tied to the valve cover rear breather port pipe? In the pic, it's the small white dash running left-right, roughly above the #4 cylinder spark plug. The metal pipe is for the oil separator system - a stock part... but what's the upside-down "U" shaped hose zip-tied to it?" I dont know what you mean please can you show it on my picture? Sprak plug wire is from Toyota Corolla Ae86 (my previuos car) hehe About secondary air box, it is on and working, so I didnt touch it My moto is, dont touch if it works hehe Should I remove it? I will test distributor vacuum advancer, so I will see is it ok. Well the engine is stock, and I wont change it ,it is good for me . Thank you all again And yes I have A/C in leevers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fanta Posted October 9, 2008 Report Share Posted October 9, 2008 You can find an O2 sensor at an auto parts store. And yes, it effects fuel consumption greatly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zeljko Posted October 9, 2008 Author Report Share Posted October 9, 2008 Thank you, I just put it on Wanted parts subforum Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fanta Posted October 9, 2008 Report Share Posted October 9, 2008 Hopefully you can find one local ( and you don't have to have one bought from the USA ) but if you cannot, one of us will be glad to help you out Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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